
Please Stop Doing This to Your Car (It Broke My Celica)
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Date: 2019-12-06
Comments and reviews: 9
Aly B
I had a car that had check engine light on in early 2000s. I dont remember which magazine had an article about the gas cap in some cases is making the light to come on. I went and bought the cheapest gas cap, disconnected the battery, connected back and check light was gone and my car passed the inspection. I did that for about 6 years ( because after car passed the inspection, check light would come back on. Maybe I should have bought gas cap from a dealer, but I didnt know about that then. My daughters car had check engine, but I always managed to get an inspection for her. I would disconnect the battery, wait 30 min, reconnect the battery and then drive around to almost 50 miles. I would go to the mechanic at 48 miles( my friend who was waiting for me. Check engine light was still off, and inspection would go through( if I were to come after 47 or less miles of driving, computer wouldnt let it to go through. It was exactly 14 miles from the garage to my house. Before I reach my home after inspection, the check light would come on again. I also did that for several years. I found out this method accidentally, by coming to the garage at 48 miles of driving around and not 50, because I really had to use the bathroom. LOL. And my friend though that I already drove the 50 miles and light didnt come on, thats why he proceeds to inspect the car, and it passed. I then figured it out that in that small widow computer starts to work, but hadnt reprogrammed the data yet, and inspection goes through. And my mechanic agreed with me. My friend mechanic advised many of his friends to do the same, and when people ask him how did he figure that out, his answer always is its all because one smart lady urgently had to use the bathroom. hahaha.
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I had a car that had check engine light on in early 2000s. I dont remember which magazine had an article about the gas cap in some cases is making the light to come on. I went and bought the cheapest gas cap, disconnected the battery, connected back and check light was gone and my car passed the inspection. I did that for about 6 years ( because after car passed the inspection, check light would come back on. Maybe I should have bought gas cap from a dealer, but I didnt know about that then. My daughters car had check engine, but I always managed to get an inspection for her. I would disconnect the battery, wait 30 min, reconnect the battery and then drive around to almost 50 miles. I would go to the mechanic at 48 miles( my friend who was waiting for me. Check engine light was still off, and inspection would go through( if I were to come after 47 or less miles of driving, computer wouldnt let it to go through. It was exactly 14 miles from the garage to my house. Before I reach my home after inspection, the check light would come on again. I also did that for several years. I found out this method accidentally, by coming to the garage at 48 miles of driving around and not 50, because I really had to use the bathroom. LOL. And my friend though that I already drove the 50 miles and light didnt come on, thats why he proceeds to inspect the car, and it passed. I then figured it out that in that small widow computer starts to work, but hadnt reprogrammed the data yet, and inspection goes through. And my mechanic agreed with me. My friend mechanic advised many of his friends to do the same, and when people ask him how did he figure that out, his answer always is its all because one smart lady urgently had to use the bathroom. hahaha.
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Ethan Geiger
Hey, Scotty, my mom has a 2016 Chevy Silverado 2500 (I know it is a piece of crap and a money pit) but my mom loves it and won't get rid of it. The other day the exhaust pipe decided to break off from the underside of the car and is now hanging down, resting on the rear mud flap. The dealer quote me 3, 500 to fix it, I say that's bull crap. How would I be able to fix this myself, it seems as if the exhaust pipe is also bent. Is this something that a high school student would be able to fix with basic tools, or should I bring it to a mechanic and have them fix it for hopefully less than 3, 500.
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Hey, Scotty, my mom has a 2016 Chevy Silverado 2500 (I know it is a piece of crap and a money pit) but my mom loves it and won't get rid of it. The other day the exhaust pipe decided to break off from the underside of the car and is now hanging down, resting on the rear mud flap. The dealer quote me 3, 500 to fix it, I say that's bull crap. How would I be able to fix this myself, it seems as if the exhaust pipe is also bent. Is this something that a high school student would be able to fix with basic tools, or should I bring it to a mechanic and have them fix it for hopefully less than 3, 500.
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givemeaforkingname
Yeah, watch out with the Lime-Away / CLR flush fix for the heater core. It might work, and it might make things worse. Or not better in a different way anyway. It could be the corrosion had started eating a hole in the core and then plugged it up with buildup. Now the Lime-Away / CLR has dissolved all that crud and exposed the hole and you end up with a leaking heater core. but then you were replacing it anyway if the fix didn't work so you got nothing much to lose trying it: -)
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Yeah, watch out with the Lime-Away / CLR flush fix for the heater core. It might work, and it might make things worse. Or not better in a different way anyway. It could be the corrosion had started eating a hole in the core and then plugged it up with buildup. Now the Lime-Away / CLR has dissolved all that crud and exposed the hole and you end up with a leaking heater core. but then you were replacing it anyway if the fix didn't work so you got nothing much to lose trying it: -)
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Sheep Dog
I remember doing a heater core job in a late 90s early 2000 Ford Excursion, the job called for 4-6 hrs total time. At the time it was one of the worst jobs I had ever done as far as replacing a heater core. It takes about 20 min to replace that heater core when you can get to it, ya do the math. The whole dash had to come out, and some of the center console. Made replacing the heater core in my 79 Trans Am a piece of cake, and that was with removing the metal inner fender well.
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I remember doing a heater core job in a late 90s early 2000 Ford Excursion, the job called for 4-6 hrs total time. At the time it was one of the worst jobs I had ever done as far as replacing a heater core. It takes about 20 min to replace that heater core when you can get to it, ya do the math. The whole dash had to come out, and some of the center console. Made replacing the heater core in my 79 Trans Am a piece of cake, and that was with removing the metal inner fender well.
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CR7659
This reminds me I need to convert my van to a non-rear-heat hose. it has a little leak under where the hose goes into the body to some core in the back for the rear unit. Whatever, it's a cargo van now. The hose is short and simple but to get to the thing I have to pull the alternator, which on this one also means the top of the fan shroud. Then it looks like one side of the hose mounts to a plastic nipple so it's a delicate job to remove. So I have been putting it off.
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This reminds me I need to convert my van to a non-rear-heat hose. it has a little leak under where the hose goes into the body to some core in the back for the rear unit. Whatever, it's a cargo van now. The hose is short and simple but to get to the thing I have to pull the alternator, which on this one also means the top of the fan shroud. Then it looks like one side of the hose mounts to a plastic nipple so it's a delicate job to remove. So I have been putting it off.
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Blocked User
Inside the master cyclinder theres a ROD that feels pressure from front brakes on one side and rear brakes on other side. As long as the line pressure front and rear remain equal the brake light is off. If pressure drops due to a leak the rod moves in the direction of the lower pressure front or rear and sends a ground to the warning light or computer. The light will remain on until the pressure in the front and rear brake lines are equal again.
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Inside the master cyclinder theres a ROD that feels pressure from front brakes on one side and rear brakes on other side. As long as the line pressure front and rear remain equal the brake light is off. If pressure drops due to a leak the rod moves in the direction of the lower pressure front or rear and sends a ground to the warning light or computer. The light will remain on until the pressure in the front and rear brake lines are equal again.
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em1o smurf
not sure if this is relevant, but there is no such critter as a maintenance-free battery. buy some distilled water from the grocery store, and pop those caps once a year. if the cell level is below the indicator tabs, drizzle some in, up to the bottom of those tabs. 5 to 7 years on a battery is ridiculous. 10 or 12, cool. had a 1980 f150 i replaced the battery once in 21 years. and if you replace it, get the best you can (and not a diehard.
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not sure if this is relevant, but there is no such critter as a maintenance-free battery. buy some distilled water from the grocery store, and pop those caps once a year. if the cell level is below the indicator tabs, drizzle some in, up to the bottom of those tabs. 5 to 7 years on a battery is ridiculous. 10 or 12, cool. had a 1980 f150 i replaced the battery once in 21 years. and if you replace it, get the best you can (and not a diehard.
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Cotton Hollow Distilling
This morning I was in one of those chain repair shops and an eldery man was in for his oil change. They told him that his battery was very weak and would be 550 to replace The reason for the high fee was the time it will take to reprogram everything. Scotty taught me that there is a cheap memory saver that plugs into the OBD port and this shop must have had one. Total rip off.
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This morning I was in one of those chain repair shops and an eldery man was in for his oil change. They told him that his battery was very weak and would be 550 to replace The reason for the high fee was the time it will take to reprogram everything. Scotty taught me that there is a cheap memory saver that plugs into the OBD port and this shop must have had one. Total rip off.
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rsully21
Scotty - It is time to replace my 1997 F150 I purchased new in the fall of 1996. I am thinking of purchasing a used 2014 F150 FX that was imported from Canada (I'm in Seattle) at40k. The 2014 has low miles (75k, clean car fax, and a good price. However, per carfax the truck had the transmission replaced at 60k. V8. Should I avoid this truck because of the transmission replacement?
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Scotty - It is time to replace my 1997 F150 I purchased new in the fall of 1996. I am thinking of purchasing a used 2014 F150 FX that was imported from Canada (I'm in Seattle) at40k. The 2014 has low miles (75k, clean car fax, and a good price. However, per carfax the truck had the transmission replaced at 60k. V8. Should I avoid this truck because of the transmission replacement?
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