Your Door NEEDS this Upgrade!
video description
Date: 2023-10-15
Related videos
Comments and reviews: 20
Michael
As someone who also has a locked area (my attic access and server closet) with a fingerprint reader, I would suggest adding a couple more of your finger prints from other finger. I cannot count the times I locked myself out because I cut/burned my finger, it was dirty, etc. I finally added a couple other fingers.
Also you should put a hole through the wall and plug it in from inside your shop area. I assume the significant other doesn't care so much about what goes on in that room. If that is not an option either you can get flat ribbon speaker wire that you can barely see once applied on the wall and painted over. You would need to do you AC-DC conversion before your box, but you could throw that under that table, or put it in the wall behind a blanking plate.
Congrats on the baby! He/she going to have a very cool dad!
reply
As someone who also has a locked area (my attic access and server closet) with a fingerprint reader, I would suggest adding a couple more of your finger prints from other finger. I cannot count the times I locked myself out because I cut/burned my finger, it was dirty, etc. I finally added a couple other fingers.
Also you should put a hole through the wall and plug it in from inside your shop area. I assume the significant other doesn't care so much about what goes on in that room. If that is not an option either you can get flat ribbon speaker wire that you can barely see once applied on the wall and painted over. You would need to do you AC-DC conversion before your box, but you could throw that under that table, or put it in the wall behind a blanking plate.
Congrats on the baby! He/she going to have a very cool dad!
reply
MAD
Congrats to the effort you put in every project. The solution you make has its drawbacks dow. Its required to remove standart handle from one of the door sides. Much easier solution is to put dropbolt/deadbolt type lock below standart as is not need to remove anything from original solution and will be less digging and grinding. There is also surface mount dropbolts and magnets. Of course this need constant power supply but is fail safe and fire safe. Also AMS voltage regulator on the NANO takes 12v anyday. Sometimes simple project like this takes time and money and become not that simple as just buying cheap chineese solution with all in one package. Big fan of you!
reply
Congrats to the effort you put in every project. The solution you make has its drawbacks dow. Its required to remove standart handle from one of the door sides. Much easier solution is to put dropbolt/deadbolt type lock below standart as is not need to remove anything from original solution and will be less digging and grinding. There is also surface mount dropbolts and magnets. Of course this need constant power supply but is fail safe and fire safe. Also AMS voltage regulator on the NANO takes 12v anyday. Sometimes simple project like this takes time and money and become not that simple as just buying cheap chineese solution with all in one package. Big fan of you!
reply
Tech
You could also do an electromagnet at the top of the door if the latch isn't an option. You just give it main's voltage attached to a normally-closed relay. It's just a matter of triggering the relay to break the circuit and turn off the magnet. The best part is that if the power goes out, you can just use the doorhandle as normal. I believe here in Florida, USA these are required for any security door that's blocking an emergency exit. The office I work at has one of these to access a stairwell. The lock can be bypassed by holding the door knob open for 30 seconds, but doing so triggers an alarm. Similar to what you see at grocery stores.
reply
You could also do an electromagnet at the top of the door if the latch isn't an option. You just give it main's voltage attached to a normally-closed relay. It's just a matter of triggering the relay to break the circuit and turn off the magnet. The best part is that if the power goes out, you can just use the doorhandle as normal. I believe here in Florida, USA these are required for any security door that's blocking an emergency exit. The office I work at has one of these to access a stairwell. The lock can be bypassed by holding the door knob open for 30 seconds, but doing so triggers an alarm. Similar to what you see at grocery stores.
reply
Nathan
I have read some of the other comments about putting the secure side behind the door, and that is a good point. But, here's. a potential problem with those fingerprint readers.
Those fingerprint readers may be easily spoofable? The fingerprint data is stored on the sensor instead of the MCU. If one can simply replicate the existing and inject their own fingerprint or replace the entire sensor with theirs, it's game over. There's also only 128 unique fingerprints that can be stored on the sensor. It doesn't sound that hard to mess with. This is just a theory though. I had one to play with but didn't have two to test the attack >: )
reply
I have read some of the other comments about putting the secure side behind the door, and that is a good point. But, here's. a potential problem with those fingerprint readers.
Those fingerprint readers may be easily spoofable? The fingerprint data is stored on the sensor instead of the MCU. If one can simply replicate the existing and inject their own fingerprint or replace the entire sensor with theirs, it's game over. There's also only 128 unique fingerprints that can be stored on the sensor. It doesn't sound that hard to mess with. This is just a theory though. I had one to play with but didn't have two to test the attack >: )
reply
Captain-Slow
I would have done it a bit different.
Ideally I would have used the electronic lock on the locking part of the lock, and always keep the door locked. Some modification is probably needed to the locking bolt so it won't stick out too much, but that way there is a solid backup if the electronics for some reason fails.
The second thing would have been to power the lock from inside the room, and use a fail safe instead of fail secure lock. That way it would be possible to just trip the HPFI and then gain access to the room in case of electronics failure.
reply
I would have done it a bit different.
Ideally I would have used the electronic lock on the locking part of the lock, and always keep the door locked. Some modification is probably needed to the locking bolt so it won't stick out too much, but that way there is a solid backup if the electronics for some reason fails.
The second thing would have been to power the lock from inside the room, and use a fail safe instead of fail secure lock. That way it would be possible to just trip the HPFI and then gain access to the room in case of electronics failure.
reply
Newnew
you could have gone the mechanical way and put a step in front of the door connected with levers that unlock the door once more than a set minimum weight (lets say 50kg) is pushing on the step. I saw that at a farm, i could drive my car and the doors would open when the weight of the car was pushing on a plate that ran across. So the door only opened for cars since wild and domestic animals don't weigh enough to open the door. Or a even simple solution a mechanical slide look on the door at the maximum height that you can reach.
reply
you could have gone the mechanical way and put a step in front of the door connected with levers that unlock the door once more than a set minimum weight (lets say 50kg) is pushing on the step. I saw that at a farm, i could drive my car and the doors would open when the weight of the car was pushing on a plate that ran across. So the door only opened for cars since wild and domestic animals don't weigh enough to open the door. Or a even simple solution a mechanical slide look on the door at the maximum height that you can reach.
reply
Rholand
Is there a reason, not to use an esp32 with Homeassistant? That way you could also open it for other people if necessary without programming their fingerprints in. Also that would be a nice anti-lockout, in case you cut into your finger and get a bandage (sure programming multiple fingers would do it also, but if you power the ESP with a powerbankt to which the power from the outlet goes you have a safe backup.
Am I missing anything?
But really nice project and great inspiration!
reply
Is there a reason, not to use an esp32 with Homeassistant? That way you could also open it for other people if necessary without programming their fingerprints in. Also that would be a nice anti-lockout, in case you cut into your finger and get a bandage (sure programming multiple fingers would do it also, but if you power the ESP with a powerbankt to which the power from the outlet goes you have a safe backup.
Am I missing anything?
But really nice project and great inspiration!
reply
BavarianSuperGuy
Thank You for your Video and Links to the Material
very good idea and implementation, it so solve, was also already before the problem, so it makes sense and is feasible
electronics and power supply belong inside the protected area, only the fingerprint should be outside.
Well, the little burglar does not have to break too much, just needs to give voltage from the battery on the door lock
reply
Thank You for your Video and Links to the Material
very good idea and implementation, it so solve, was also already before the problem, so it makes sense and is feasible
electronics and power supply belong inside the protected area, only the fingerprint should be outside.
Well, the little burglar does not have to break too much, just needs to give voltage from the battery on the door lock
reply
wizkid711
Just an FYI about your how to power something on the door side of things. There are hinges called electrified hinges, they are used for hotels and such where the readers need continuous power on the door. You can use a drill and drill a small hole from one side to the other or as some doors do it around the permitter. Still love your implementation, and yes I wish these are more common.
reply
Just an FYI about your how to power something on the door side of things. There are hinges called electrified hinges, they are used for hotels and such where the readers need continuous power on the door. You can use a drill and drill a small hole from one side to the other or as some doors do it around the permitter. Still love your implementation, and yes I wish these are more common.
reply
AKG58
O another idea a wireless system that can recharge the battery inside the door the system would work by you taking a device and touching it to the door where it would transfer a huge amount of power to the lock and it stores that power temporarily and then you let go and the system would slowly recharge the battery itself using the stored power ideally from super capacitors.
reply
O another idea a wireless system that can recharge the battery inside the door the system would work by you taking a device and touching it to the door where it would transfer a huge amount of power to the lock and it stores that power temporarily and then you let go and the system would slowly recharge the battery itself using the stored power ideally from super capacitors.
reply
Morn
Since u live in germany, i guess you have a lightswitch next to the door in your studio. There you get power and you could hide your box which is not looking appealing as well, just wire the fingerprint reader on the other(outside) side! My son, 2 1/2 years old would play all the time with that box and rip the cabel and everything from the wall.
reply
Since u live in germany, i guess you have a lightswitch next to the door in your studio. There you get power and you could hide your box which is not looking appealing as well, just wire the fingerprint reader on the other(outside) side! My son, 2 1/2 years old would play all the time with that box and rip the cabel and everything from the wall.
reply
Mark
I don't want to be a Wet Blanket, but wouldn't a barrel bolt lock on the top of the door achieve the desired effect without all the faffing about with electronics and the dreaded software, after all is said and done it will be years before child will be able to reach it, well past the age of wanting to eat a pair of wire cutters.
reply
I don't want to be a Wet Blanket, but wouldn't a barrel bolt lock on the top of the door achieve the desired effect without all the faffing about with electronics and the dreaded software, after all is said and done it will be years before child will be able to reach it, well past the age of wanting to eat a pair of wire cutters.
reply
Lampe2020
You should add a backup battery to the fingerprint box that can power it for at least a day straight, so if the power goes out you still can access the room.
Or add a way for the keyhole to activate a mechanical bypass to get access to the room when the fingerprint reader isn't working for whatever reason.
reply
You should add a backup battery to the fingerprint box that can power it for at least a day straight, so if the power goes out you still can access the room.
Or add a way for the keyhole to activate a mechanical bypass to get access to the room when the fingerprint reader isn't working for whatever reason.
reply
education
the handle could have stayed. If you find the handle more comfortable than the knob. The square bar you took out can just be cut shorter so that only the inner handle can rotate the bar, but the outside one doesn't turn anything because the bar is shorter and doesn't go into the square hole in the handle
reply
the handle could have stayed. If you find the handle more comfortable than the knob. The square bar you took out can just be cut shorter so that only the inner handle can rotate the bar, but the outside one doesn't turn anything because the bar is shorter and doesn't go into the square hole in the handle
reply
Prathamesh
in this design, I feel like if someone had to really break in, they could easily do that by removing the housing for the locking system and giving it power which defeats its whole purpose. In my opinion, the mechanics and wires should be inside the room and only the fingerprint sensor should be outside.
reply
in this design, I feel like if someone had to really break in, they could easily do that by removing the housing for the locking system and giving it power which defeats its whole purpose. In my opinion, the mechanics and wires should be inside the room and only the fingerprint sensor should be outside.
reply
Burger
For the door mounted locks, you could theoretically make some system with springs or pogo pins that would make contact when the door is closed, and keep the battery topped up that way. But it would add a lot of complication, and you would still have to power it just like the solution in the video
reply
For the door mounted locks, you could theoretically make some system with springs or pogo pins that would make contact when the door is closed, and keep the battery topped up that way. But it would add a lot of complication, and you would still have to power it just like the solution in the video
reply
Tech
Also, for anyone wanting to DIY your own security door, mount your electronics on the INSIDE of the secure room. The only thing that should be outside is the reader. Otherwise someone can open up the electronics and bypass the security features. (LPL has a few videos showcasing this)
reply
Also, for anyone wanting to DIY your own security door, mount your electronics on the INSIDE of the secure room. The only thing that should be outside is the reader. Otherwise someone can open up the electronics and bypass the security features. (LPL has a few videos showcasing this)
reply
pan
this is awesome!
and this project remembers me of when I tried to do something very similar and had a lot of problems with the arduino as I was using an Arduino UNO board. The board was glitching a lot with the electromagnetic fields generated by the wires going to the solenoid.
reply
this is awesome!
and this project remembers me of when I tried to do something very similar and had a lot of problems with the arduino as I was using an Arduino UNO board. The board was glitching a lot with the electromagnetic fields generated by the wires going to the solenoid.
reply
Mike
Be like tesla. transmit power wirelessly. Maybe a wireless charger in the lab on the wall right behind the 3D printed enclosure. I don't know if that would work, just spitballing ideas.
Are you locking the baby out of the lab cause you don't want him to play with your toys? :)
reply
Be like tesla. transmit power wirelessly. Maybe a wireless charger in the lab on the wall right behind the 3D printed enclosure. I don't know if that would work, just spitballing ideas.
Are you locking the baby out of the lab cause you don't want him to play with your toys? :)
reply
Filip
IMO the best way to power this would be to just put a new cable in the wall, then put plaster and paint over it, if this lock system is a permanent solution. Otherwise, You could just drill a hole through the wall behind the box, and power it from the lab's side
reply
IMO the best way to power this would be to just put a new cable in the wall, then put plaster and paint over it, if this lock system is a permanent solution. Otherwise, You could just drill a hole through the wall behind the box, and power it from the lab's side
reply
Add a review, comment
Other channel videos
