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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » ChrisFix
How to Install a Battery Kill Switch

How to Install a Battery Kill Switch

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
How to Install a Battery Kill Switch SlierFox: There's also the eye hole in the crimps to make sure you have butted up the cable far enough in the crimp to check before crimping and after crimping, then you can do a proper pull test, look in the data sheets for pull test specs for non destructive testing. I used to hang off of that style crimp to give an idea of the force it should hold not just a little pull in your fingers. Interesting to see that big white heat dissipative resistor that will get hot as the only load for the alternator put in heatshrink so it can't dissipate the heat then put in plastic loom, that's a bit of a melting hazard, you could secure it out the loom to the bodywork not in engine bay to dissipate the heat away from it.
Date: 2022-05-28

Comments and reviews: 9


28: 50 The thick green extension cable forced you to use a blue connector that is too large for the thin ECU cable which could lead to a bad electrical and physical connection. Then you crimped the green cable in the slot between the red and blue dies. That slot isn't for crimping and it doesn't have the right geometry or size. The color of the connector and die must always match.
A better solution would be a red connector and a cable that matches the thickness of the ECU cable. Don't worry about the losses of the thinner cable. Most of the resistance comes from the connectors anyway and a red connector would create a better connection with that ECU cable. 12V electrical systems on cars have huge tolerances and a short extension like that is nothing. Think about the immense load that the 12V battery experiences while you crank the engine over. While cranking its normal for the voltage to drop below 8V and the ECU can handle that just fine. If it didn't the car wouldn't start!

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Wow chris. Im actually a professional in electronics and I can tell that you really went above and beyond. This stuff was overkill even for the most strict standard. Even military grade accepts some cut strands and doesnt use silicone except in specific cases. Its super satisfying to finally see someone else who takes their time to do it right the first time. Great job man!
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those but connectors aren't perfection at all. not soldering and the cables aren't touching each other. it's just the copper connector.
the bracket is shit. also why metal? you could use plastic very easily and make it a lot better.

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Solid job Chris - love your meticulous approach!
One small point to improve - that plate top-left corner might rub against the roll-cage tube from vibrations and be noisy. Either snug a felt pad or further 4-5mm trim might do it

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Great video, i have one question though: since all the current runs through the switch now anyways is there really a point in having to run both wires from the battery to the switch or wouldnt one suffice?
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Most BMW's has a one off kill switch. Every accident where airbags deploy will cause the BST (Battery saftey terminal) cable to snap off the battery on the positive side. Even if I hit a kerb hard enough.
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Many cordless tools these days use the same battery for that brand.
Be it AEG, Makita, Bosch, Hikoki, Dewalt, etc.
The only time the batteries are different is if the voltages are different.

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That s good info. But do you think you could make a video on how to keep single-seat, twin engine, Supermanoeuvrable Sukhoi Su-35 Flanker-E air-defence fighter s from observing me from above. Thanks
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i think in this case it would have been easier to just get the non split wire sheath. Easier to push the wire through and a lot safer. better in places where you know you keep the wire like a cutoff
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