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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » TheStradman
I NEED Some Help.

I NEED Some Help.

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
I NEED Some Help. Erik Di Somma: First, the thrust bearing / slave is where your fluid went the first time. They should've seen the seepage at the bell housing. IT IS VERY COMMON. Now that's it's out, a full clutch replacement is recommended. Otherwise, you could've topped it off and kept an eye on it until the clutch wore down to a more replaceable level. Second, I DO NOT recommend Kevlar. You hear about the good but there is also bad. Explaining why is too long for his post, but what makes more sense is this: what costs on these is labor and other components will fail long before a new clutch plate anyway. In other words, your 100k mile clutch means nothing when your bearing fails again, and it will. I think hill engineering might make an improved bearing for your car, but I'm not sure. I use them on Ferrari. Finally, the only maintenance that will add to resale is one that is completed using OEM. Kevlar is not worth the risk. I walk people through stressful break in periods following aftermarket replacement clutch installs ALL THE TIME. Again, I don't recommend it.
Date: 2019-10-19

Comments and reviews: 9


Questions to ask yourself - how long do you plan on keeping the car? if you're selling it soon, say within 6 months or maybe even a year it's not worth it. Does the kevlar clutch last any longer than OEM? The extra cost could be worth it if the upgraded materials allow for longer periods/more miles between replacement. Do you plan on upgrading the engine? Also, consider how it operates - does the third party kevlar clutch bite aggressively that makes it less appealing to drive, and is it heavier to operate? You may also be able to sell the old clutch seeing as it has some life left in it to help offset the cost.
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A) First how long do you think you will keep the Lambo because like you said you will not probably get anymore for your car. B) Ae there any downsides mechanically to the Kevlar clutch, chatter, other tranny pats break easier? What can you buy for the Jeep or cart that you would like sooner? Anyway have a great week. PS I find it interesting how many people feel how smart they are and of course you know nothing. I can say this because I am not you, plus your parents with the fun car collection I am sure taught you how to be more polite. I do like your Dads roadster they are fun. God's Blessings.
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this video probably made you at least 2000 already. besides it should at least help keep the value at a higher price point - top of the range instead of falling down lower in the range, it will be a selling point and why pay to replace another one so soon again. That said will you get 2k back for it? no, you won't but an easier sell for the price you want might be worth your time and effort when it comes time to sell it - or if you keep it its less maintenance later
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the Kevlar clutches were better than the old clutch designs, but the current OEM is the best choice. There's a guy who did 100, 000 (yes, one hundred thousand) miles on his clutch, after replacing the original at around 30K or so. Manual, just like yours. The clutch wasn't worn out, it was the slave cylinder like you're experiencing now. As you can see, your clutch was still good, it's either the master of slave cylinder that's giving you issues.
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The clutch had 50 percent left so a OE clutch could last about 80, 000 miles if driven right. The slave cylinder is what failed. Is there an aftermarket or upgraded slave available? I've been a mechanic a long time, never touched anything as exotic as Lamborghini, but from a drivability standpoint you would be much happier with OE unless you're going to mod the crap out of the engine for track days. Save your money for Jeep Mods.
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Speaking from a mechanics standpoint, I would go for the more expensive Kevlar clutch. You daily drive it, so you should easily get another 40, 000 out of it, factor in the labour alone, an entires days work to pull apart, another entire day to put together, add that price on to the stock clutch for the second time you have to replace it then compare it to the small extra 2000 for the Kevlar clutch.
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Do the OEM clutch. reason 1 wont get money back- reason 2 has stock engine. reason 3 will probably sell long before the new clutch is worn out. reason 3 kevlar could be more grabby when taking off in first gear which gets seriously annoying in traffic and daily driving, and you drive it alot. reason 4 save 2 grand right now reason 5 when you sell it saying new clutch is already a selling point
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IF you plan on messing with the performance of this car (i. e. Supercharging, Turbos, ECM tuning, basically DDE's Huracan) then go Kevlar, no question about it. However, if you are just hanging on to this car until you find something you like more, and then sup up the new one, then just go OEM. It's all based on your plans for the future. You will never get your money back either way.
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I would consider just going with the OEM. After all, there's many people like me who likes to keep things original, or factory tuned at their most. Using non-OEM part (despite being an upgrade part) might turn off some potential buyers, as we're talking about 100k car and not your average cheap ricer-Civic: ) It might be a selling point - but be aware it might also turn against itself.
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