What Happens When You Transplant Tomatoes 3 Different Ways
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Date: 2024-06-21
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Comments and reviews: 20
nikitavanhoose405
I don't like the sideways trench idea at all. Doing that, your just begging for that plant to get blight and die. Some don't seem to understand this, but most diseases that our garden plants get, they don't come from the air, or from insects, or anything like that, they are already found in your soil everywhere, in everyone's soil. The thing is, as long as you have good healthy soil microbiology, and good watering and fertilizer schedules and practices, your plants will be healthy and happy and they will fight off all these diseases naturally. The moment your plants get stressed out, that's when disease and insect pressure really starts. Buy having that plant and stem and leaves lying on the ground like that, every time it rains, it's going to get covered in soil, and the leaves will get pounded into the dirt and mud, and your almost guaranteed to get blight and shorten that plants life. Here's what I do. I plant my tomatoe plants about 3 inches deep, but then, once they get adjusted and start new growth, I mound them with dirt, up the stem another 5, or 6inches, or so. Keep in mind that, most of the microbiology and nutrients your plants roots need and want are found between about 2 inches, to 8 inches deep. Anything beyond that, and the microbiology counts and nutrient levels start dropping, and the deeper you go, the worse it gets. The soil microbiology needs dead plant materials and stuff like that to survive, and the deeper you go into the soil, the less food their is for all the good bacterias and fungi and stuff that feeds your plants.
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I don't like the sideways trench idea at all. Doing that, your just begging for that plant to get blight and die. Some don't seem to understand this, but most diseases that our garden plants get, they don't come from the air, or from insects, or anything like that, they are already found in your soil everywhere, in everyone's soil. The thing is, as long as you have good healthy soil microbiology, and good watering and fertilizer schedules and practices, your plants will be healthy and happy and they will fight off all these diseases naturally. The moment your plants get stressed out, that's when disease and insect pressure really starts. Buy having that plant and stem and leaves lying on the ground like that, every time it rains, it's going to get covered in soil, and the leaves will get pounded into the dirt and mud, and your almost guaranteed to get blight and shorten that plants life. Here's what I do. I plant my tomatoe plants about 3 inches deep, but then, once they get adjusted and start new growth, I mound them with dirt, up the stem another 5, or 6inches, or so. Keep in mind that, most of the microbiology and nutrients your plants roots need and want are found between about 2 inches, to 8 inches deep. Anything beyond that, and the microbiology counts and nutrient levels start dropping, and the deeper you go, the worse it gets. The soil microbiology needs dead plant materials and stuff like that to survive, and the deeper you go into the soil, the less food their is for all the good bacterias and fungi and stuff that feeds your plants.
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indiefan23
I think you need to redo the experiment in in a raised bed where the soil heats up more uniformly along the root structure. I feel like the trench method works better for people who water too frequently. I'm also curious about the growing season. My tomatoes grow man. twice as big as that if not more. I feel like in the raised beds burying deep is the best method however I've planted things when they were smaller and they caught up. Next year maybe I'm going to bury half deep and half surface.
I also think it's pretty clear there's a mistake in your controls. Pruning the leaves off the plant is going to stress it threatening it's life so it's going to focus on fruit production to reproduce where John focused right away on roots. I feel like if they were pruned all along as you were planting it would have changed the results since when they got transplanted they woudln't have been expected to root out while stressed. I also think not fertilizing them is a bit of a mistake. especially considering you could have used something with a root stimulator. The right nutrients is going to change that important rooting initial stage.
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I think you need to redo the experiment in in a raised bed where the soil heats up more uniformly along the root structure. I feel like the trench method works better for people who water too frequently. I'm also curious about the growing season. My tomatoes grow man. twice as big as that if not more. I feel like in the raised beds burying deep is the best method however I've planted things when they were smaller and they caught up. Next year maybe I'm going to bury half deep and half surface.
I also think it's pretty clear there's a mistake in your controls. Pruning the leaves off the plant is going to stress it threatening it's life so it's going to focus on fruit production to reproduce where John focused right away on roots. I feel like if they were pruned all along as you were planting it would have changed the results since when they got transplanted they woudln't have been expected to root out while stressed. I also think not fertilizing them is a bit of a mistake. especially considering you could have used something with a root stimulator. The right nutrients is going to change that important rooting initial stage.
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nikitavanhoose405
Planting the tomatoe plants deep, not only helps grow more roots, but it also helps give the plant a strong foundation when it gets loaded down with fruits. With that said, I don't really buy into the claims that planting deep helps make more tomatoes, or makes them ripen quicker. I don't think that's really how it works. I think it could definitely help support a larger plant with more limbs and tops, if you chose not to prune your tomatoe plants and just let them sprawl, but I don't think that root count necessarily directly effects fruit count, nor does it effect ripening speed. I would say that the fruit count of a given tomatoe plant has more to do with the genetics of the plant itself, and maybe the health of your soil, the weather conditions and temperatures, your watering and fertilizer schedules and practices, your pruning style, all of these things probably have a small impact here, or there. I wonder if anyone has done an extensive test, with controls and all, to see if root count has any effect at all on fruit count
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Planting the tomatoe plants deep, not only helps grow more roots, but it also helps give the plant a strong foundation when it gets loaded down with fruits. With that said, I don't really buy into the claims that planting deep helps make more tomatoes, or makes them ripen quicker. I don't think that's really how it works. I think it could definitely help support a larger plant with more limbs and tops, if you chose not to prune your tomatoe plants and just let them sprawl, but I don't think that root count necessarily directly effects fruit count, nor does it effect ripening speed. I would say that the fruit count of a given tomatoe plant has more to do with the genetics of the plant itself, and maybe the health of your soil, the weather conditions and temperatures, your watering and fertilizer schedules and practices, your pruning style, all of these things probably have a small impact here, or there. I wonder if anyone has done an extensive test, with controls and all, to see if root count has any effect at all on fruit count
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garchompy_1561
I believe some of the theory behind the angled/laying flat tomato planting method is that the majority of many planting beds have their nutrients and often their water applied to the surface, and by laying the plant flat you force many of the roots to start growing from from the surface. If any compost or mulch is added, there are far more roots far closer to it spread over a wider area.
its also quite strange, because here in scotland, laying flat is the only way ive heard people plant tomatoes, and I wonder if it is in part because of water availibility and avoiding drowning the plants by planting deep and allowing the soil to dry out to some reasonable amount on the surface, meanwhile where you live its clearly very hot and dry and water availibility is more of a struggle so having the roots forced deep underground, youre more likely to have access to water for more of the year and avoid the soil drying out entirely within a day on the surface.
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I believe some of the theory behind the angled/laying flat tomato planting method is that the majority of many planting beds have their nutrients and often their water applied to the surface, and by laying the plant flat you force many of the roots to start growing from from the surface. If any compost or mulch is added, there are far more roots far closer to it spread over a wider area.
its also quite strange, because here in scotland, laying flat is the only way ive heard people plant tomatoes, and I wonder if it is in part because of water availibility and avoiding drowning the plants by planting deep and allowing the soil to dry out to some reasonable amount on the surface, meanwhile where you live its clearly very hot and dry and water availibility is more of a struggle so having the roots forced deep underground, youre more likely to have access to water for more of the year and avoid the soil drying out entirely within a day on the surface.
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aplacetoexist
A place to exist tested this in several different climates and soil types with a sample size over 800 for each methodand the conclusion is: All three are situationally excellent, but also situationally bad!
The trench method is great if youre able to water a lot and also if you have a medium to long growing season.
The standard method is great with a short season and consistent watering.
The deep bury method is fantastic for drought resistance and heat tolerance in long growing season areas!
In the climate im currently in, we have found that despite our short growing season, the deep bury method is actually more productive by about 30-40% due to our sparse but heavy rains and our heavy interplanting! The tomatoes dont have to compete for resources since the interplanted crops dont develop roots that far down! They are pretty slow to start, but they end up out producing the trench and the standard by a lot!
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A place to exist tested this in several different climates and soil types with a sample size over 800 for each methodand the conclusion is: All three are situationally excellent, but also situationally bad!
The trench method is great if youre able to water a lot and also if you have a medium to long growing season.
The standard method is great with a short season and consistent watering.
The deep bury method is fantastic for drought resistance and heat tolerance in long growing season areas!
In the climate im currently in, we have found that despite our short growing season, the deep bury method is actually more productive by about 30-40% due to our sparse but heavy rains and our heavy interplanting! The tomatoes dont have to compete for resources since the interplanted crops dont develop roots that far down! They are pretty slow to start, but they end up out producing the trench and the standard by a lot!
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somebodypeculiar
Haven't watched to the end yet, but I used to (30 years ago) follow the trench method. I got it from a book on growing tomatoes. As well as I can remember, the reasoning was that that sun would warm the soil, and thus the roots and the stem where the roots should be growing.
Okay, I'm up to the final comparison, just before they are dug up. So far all the comparisons and explanations are based on the roots. But please remember how much more foliage John had from the start. It takes roots AND leaves to grow, so of course John had a head start on one of those.
And of course, a different variety might act differently. And summers vary.
(When I had a garden I only planted tomatoes. Lots of them. I took a week of vacation in August to eat tomatoes. Lightly toast rye bread, cover with sharp cheddar, put in the toaster over to melt the cheese, then top with THICK slices of fresh ripe tomato)
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Haven't watched to the end yet, but I used to (30 years ago) follow the trench method. I got it from a book on growing tomatoes. As well as I can remember, the reasoning was that that sun would warm the soil, and thus the roots and the stem where the roots should be growing.
Okay, I'm up to the final comparison, just before they are dug up. So far all the comparisons and explanations are based on the roots. But please remember how much more foliage John had from the start. It takes roots AND leaves to grow, so of course John had a head start on one of those.
And of course, a different variety might act differently. And summers vary.
(When I had a garden I only planted tomatoes. Lots of them. I took a week of vacation in August to eat tomatoes. Lightly toast rye bread, cover with sharp cheddar, put in the toaster over to melt the cheese, then top with THICK slices of fresh ripe tomato)
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jinsetayinsei4146
For my experiment, I used beefsteaks. They grow to 6' - 8' where I live. I used a 3x4 wood beam (I get a LOT of them) and built 4x4 wood boxes. I attached the boxes to the beam like steps on a spiral staircase and filled them with dirt. I used three beams and threes boxes to each beam. Because my experiment was considered dumb, I was given the poorest looking tomatoes and planted them in the most-shaded area of the patch.
One was attacked by the cat and the other probably got shaded out (still bore some fruit, but the third grew and yielded as much fruit as the strongest and best sunned tomatoes. It was quite difficult to land the vine right on the dirt. The most successful tomato only rooted in the first two boxes. I would like to explore this method in the future, but it took a lot of effort to make happen in the first place.
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For my experiment, I used beefsteaks. They grow to 6' - 8' where I live. I used a 3x4 wood beam (I get a LOT of them) and built 4x4 wood boxes. I attached the boxes to the beam like steps on a spiral staircase and filled them with dirt. I used three beams and threes boxes to each beam. Because my experiment was considered dumb, I was given the poorest looking tomatoes and planted them in the most-shaded area of the patch.
One was attacked by the cat and the other probably got shaded out (still bore some fruit, but the third grew and yielded as much fruit as the strongest and best sunned tomatoes. It was quite difficult to land the vine right on the dirt. The most successful tomato only rooted in the first two boxes. I would like to explore this method in the future, but it took a lot of effort to make happen in the first place.
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paullane8798
Later season growth will be fueled by the better root development. I would like to see a full season version of this experiment. We planted seedlings too early one year, they grew to 5-6 feet tall before it was warm enough to plant outside. We planted about 4 ft into the soil and threw some diakon radish chunks in the hole. The tomatoe plant looks rough for the for 3-4 weeks as the roots developed. Then all of a sudden with the roots established, we saw a growth boom where the leaf and fruit growth doubled week over week for the rest of the season. I would describe the tomatoes plant more as more of a bush, about 6 feet tall and 3-4 ft across. We were not able to keep up with pruning. So I think ending the experiment too early would not show the benefits of the better root development.
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Later season growth will be fueled by the better root development. I would like to see a full season version of this experiment. We planted seedlings too early one year, they grew to 5-6 feet tall before it was warm enough to plant outside. We planted about 4 ft into the soil and threw some diakon radish chunks in the hole. The tomatoe plant looks rough for the for 3-4 weeks as the roots developed. Then all of a sudden with the roots established, we saw a growth boom where the leaf and fruit growth doubled week over week for the rest of the season. I would describe the tomatoes plant more as more of a bush, about 6 feet tall and 3-4 ft across. We were not able to keep up with pruning. So I think ending the experiment too early would not show the benefits of the better root development.
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jm3517
This tracks with what I’ve always thought/done regarding planting it deep I’ve always heard to only do that if you’ve overgrown the starting pot and it’s a bit root bound or if you’re growing in a super windy area and need the added stability. By planting it super deep you’re stressing the plant and setting it back a bit so any advantage you get from more root volume is offset by the time it takes to adjust and start throwing out roots. If you plant a healthy tomato plant at surface level that isn’t root bound it’s naturally going to send out roots and send them relatively deep, probably in the same amount of time as it takes the ones planted deep to start throwing out roots from the stem. Just plant it normal, no need to over complicate it.
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This tracks with what I’ve always thought/done regarding planting it deep I’ve always heard to only do that if you’ve overgrown the starting pot and it’s a bit root bound or if you’re growing in a super windy area and need the added stability. By planting it super deep you’re stressing the plant and setting it back a bit so any advantage you get from more root volume is offset by the time it takes to adjust and start throwing out roots. If you plant a healthy tomato plant at surface level that isn’t root bound it’s naturally going to send out roots and send them relatively deep, probably in the same amount of time as it takes the ones planted deep to start throwing out roots from the stem. Just plant it normal, no need to over complicate it.
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epic_gardening
Interesting results, I plant mine a little lower than John. reason being is that I am in Canada with a short growing season and I don't want to waste time with the plant recovering. Also I replace my determinates with new determinates so I can get the most from my season. Also saw a video from a soil scientist who happens to love gardening. go figure, shorter growing season than mine but she never plants them deeper. They do grow more roots but these collect water, not nutrients so not actual roots in the same sense of the word. Bottom line, do what works for you, shallow ground, gophers, long season what ever was so cool to see the actual differences, thank you so much for the video
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Interesting results, I plant mine a little lower than John. reason being is that I am in Canada with a short growing season and I don't want to waste time with the plant recovering. Also I replace my determinates with new determinates so I can get the most from my season. Also saw a video from a soil scientist who happens to love gardening. go figure, shorter growing season than mine but she never plants them deeper. They do grow more roots but these collect water, not nutrients so not actual roots in the same sense of the word. Bottom line, do what works for you, shallow ground, gophers, long season what ever was so cool to see the actual differences, thank you so much for the video
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shelbysieber590
I’m in the PNW and I used the trench method last year and these were the things I liked: 1. Allowed me to bury my 2-3 ft tall tomatoes (garden was not available until mid June. 2. I didn’t have to dig holes that were 2-3 ft deep 3. I felt they not only had access to warmer soil, but also more water near the surface.
Also I didn’t find any need to bend them, I laid them out sideways a few days before planting and they naturally turned up towards the sun.
I don’t aim to need to use this method every year, I’m hoping to time everything so that I just have reasonable size starts (the John method if you will. But the trench is a nice trick to keep in your back pocket.
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I’m in the PNW and I used the trench method last year and these were the things I liked: 1. Allowed me to bury my 2-3 ft tall tomatoes (garden was not available until mid June. 2. I didn’t have to dig holes that were 2-3 ft deep 3. I felt they not only had access to warmer soil, but also more water near the surface.
Also I didn’t find any need to bend them, I laid them out sideways a few days before planting and they naturally turned up towards the sun.
I don’t aim to need to use this method every year, I’m hoping to time everything so that I just have reasonable size starts (the John method if you will. But the trench is a nice trick to keep in your back pocket.
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drewvey5621
Great video! I grow about 500 square meters of potted greenhouse tomatoes. I never plant deep. Just out of curiosity a few months ago I did test about 100 plants buried up to the first set of true leaves. The result was about four times more plants that died early and needed to be replaced, which is a big setback when you're growing tomatoes for sale. Normally, of 100 transplants, about 2-4 fail in the first two weeks or so. The tomatoes planted deep had 11. On top of that there was no difference in size or growth rate.
One thing to keep in mind however, our tomatoes are in their final pot at only about 4-6 inches tall. It could be different with more established plants.
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Great video! I grow about 500 square meters of potted greenhouse tomatoes. I never plant deep. Just out of curiosity a few months ago I did test about 100 plants buried up to the first set of true leaves. The result was about four times more plants that died early and needed to be replaced, which is a big setback when you're growing tomatoes for sale. Normally, of 100 transplants, about 2-4 fail in the first two weeks or so. The tomatoes planted deep had 11. On top of that there was no difference in size or growth rate.
One thing to keep in mind however, our tomatoes are in their final pot at only about 4-6 inches tall. It could be different with more established plants.
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columbia2635
I'm about halfway through the video but have to say that I'm a bit offended by the Clown designation of the trench tomato. My grandfather, who lived through the depression, etc, was a city farmer - meaning he had some acreage and planted corn, beans, tomatoes, etc. - was a trench tomato grower. I've been doing the same method for a few decades myself! My tomato plants easily grow 10' tall with 1# plus tomatoes! Warmer soil, more water, even easier access to fertilizer.
FYI, when burying your tomato in a trench, you don't have to bend it/stress it out. It will naturally reach for the sun on it's own.
So we are at the end and I'm a bit tickled that Clown did so well.
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I'm about halfway through the video but have to say that I'm a bit offended by the Clown designation of the trench tomato. My grandfather, who lived through the depression, etc, was a city farmer - meaning he had some acreage and planted corn, beans, tomatoes, etc. - was a trench tomato grower. I've been doing the same method for a few decades myself! My tomato plants easily grow 10' tall with 1# plus tomatoes! Warmer soil, more water, even easier access to fertilizer.
FYI, when burying your tomato in a trench, you don't have to bend it/stress it out. It will naturally reach for the sun on it's own.
So we are at the end and I'm a bit tickled that Clown did so well.
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PatriciaStuckey
I use the trench method when the stem is long and flexible enough to work with. Here is the theory behind it: Roots need a balance of water AND air. They root out at the correct depth to achieve this balance. Planting at grade puts the roots at the correct depth but does not allow the stem to set extra roots. Planting deep allow the stem to set extra roots BUT the main root mass is at the wrong depth. Trenching is supposed to give you the best of both - a rooting stem at the correct depth. My favorite method is none of the above. I like to sow seeds in place or transplant when very small, and use a cover to stabilize the temperature (wall-of-water.
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I use the trench method when the stem is long and flexible enough to work with. Here is the theory behind it: Roots need a balance of water AND air. They root out at the correct depth to achieve this balance. Planting at grade puts the roots at the correct depth but does not allow the stem to set extra roots. Planting deep allow the stem to set extra roots BUT the main root mass is at the wrong depth. Trenching is supposed to give you the best of both - a rooting stem at the correct depth. My favorite method is none of the above. I like to sow seeds in place or transplant when very small, and use a cover to stabilize the temperature (wall-of-water.
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louvegouroute
ooh thanks this is perfect timing bc i'm going to transplant some totmates soon
seeing these results, i'm considering maybe a titanic clown method: on the side but not too much, and a little deeper.
i think the titanic method might be very useful for getting water deep in the ground! and the plant won't need that much watering if the soil is very damp, which is the case where i live. but getting more of that sun warmth is doing so much good too, so yup. i'll try a combo: )
my fingers apparently decided that i needed to write tomates, in french, but fingers managed to resist a little, and the result is so funny i dind't want to delete it: p
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ooh thanks this is perfect timing bc i'm going to transplant some totmates soon
seeing these results, i'm considering maybe a titanic clown method: on the side but not too much, and a little deeper.
i think the titanic method might be very useful for getting water deep in the ground! and the plant won't need that much watering if the soil is very damp, which is the case where i live. but getting more of that sun warmth is doing so much good too, so yup. i'll try a combo: )
my fingers apparently decided that i needed to write tomates, in french, but fingers managed to resist a little, and the result is so funny i dind't want to delete it: p
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MattSeremet
I'm thinking the trenched one and surfaces ones had better aeration, along with that warmth factor you mention.
I would be curious to see not so much removal of the soil in the transplant. Some for sure but it looks a little aggressive for this test, at least with Titanic (1: 40 looks a little barren, you were just a tad over zealous, no. Surely it's fine to do, but given the plants were already about the same age/health I believe the soil and root system that comes with each provides a consistent starting place.
Also would like to see maybe 3 plants per method, and/or maybe a gradation of depths.
But overall very interesting experiment!
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I'm thinking the trenched one and surfaces ones had better aeration, along with that warmth factor you mention.
I would be curious to see not so much removal of the soil in the transplant. Some for sure but it looks a little aggressive for this test, at least with Titanic (1: 40 looks a little barren, you were just a tad over zealous, no. Surely it's fine to do, but given the plants were already about the same age/health I believe the soil and root system that comes with each provides a consistent starting place.
Also would like to see maybe 3 plants per method, and/or maybe a gradation of depths.
But overall very interesting experiment!
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epic_gardening
Using the trench technique will give you more fruit in the long run depending on environment. I've been growing tomatoes for 40 years now in Northern California and have experimented with the 3 methods. The roots take longer to catch in the trench method but seem to give the plant a bit more longevity with indeterminate varieties. We'll have plants producing fruit into January now. The reason is exactly as he suspected, warmer temps closer to the roots but also less soil compaction to fight against because they're not buried deeply. Weed barrier will also help keep the ground warmer which can expedite root development and plant growth.
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Using the trench technique will give you more fruit in the long run depending on environment. I've been growing tomatoes for 40 years now in Northern California and have experimented with the 3 methods. The roots take longer to catch in the trench method but seem to give the plant a bit more longevity with indeterminate varieties. We'll have plants producing fruit into January now. The reason is exactly as he suspected, warmer temps closer to the roots but also less soil compaction to fight against because they're not buried deeply. Weed barrier will also help keep the ground warmer which can expedite root development and plant growth.
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michaellee3462
One thing that comes to mind as to why the trenching method produces more roots than deep burying: tomatoes naturally have very shallow root systems. So even if you deep bury the plant's stem, it will only produce new roots in soil conditions that suit them (i. e. within a few inches of the surface where heat/nutrient/water access are prime for the tomato to grow. The trench method has 100% of the buried stem in the tomato's natural root development zone. If you want to test this, you could setup another experiment with two deep buried tomatoes: one in ground and the other in a container/growbag nearby.
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One thing that comes to mind as to why the trenching method produces more roots than deep burying: tomatoes naturally have very shallow root systems. So even if you deep bury the plant's stem, it will only produce new roots in soil conditions that suit them (i. e. within a few inches of the surface where heat/nutrient/water access are prime for the tomato to grow. The trench method has 100% of the buried stem in the tomato's natural root development zone. If you want to test this, you could setup another experiment with two deep buried tomatoes: one in ground and the other in a container/growbag nearby.
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justinedeveau1074
It's water, not temperature I think that is affecting your roots more. I would put actual money on that - soil moisture isn't uniform throughout and the wetting is mostly at the level where you have the most roots developing - that's why Titanic developed roots at only that level and why the original root ball was smaller (it never got water, being too deep. You shouldn't have too much of a temperature swing in soil that's mulched underground - but you DO have a depth that most rain storms will penetrate down to.
TL; DR water not root temp is why the roots developed the way they did
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It's water, not temperature I think that is affecting your roots more. I would put actual money on that - soil moisture isn't uniform throughout and the wetting is mostly at the level where you have the most roots developing - that's why Titanic developed roots at only that level and why the original root ball was smaller (it never got water, being too deep. You shouldn't have too much of a temperature swing in soil that's mulched underground - but you DO have a depth that most rain storms will penetrate down to.
TL; DR water not root temp is why the roots developed the way they did
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matth8961
Hey Kevin have you considered the fact that right now we are in a solar maximum of the solar cycle and do you think or believe that this could possibly have an impact on your test I'm only asking because I have noticed I have certain plants doing beyond amazing things at this point and other plants that seem to be struggling based on sunlight temperature water and Heat unfortunately I do live in a very humid climate I have some of my tomato plants and Shake cover another son direct sunlight can you tell me if this has been researched based on solar maximum and solar minimum periods
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Hey Kevin have you considered the fact that right now we are in a solar maximum of the solar cycle and do you think or believe that this could possibly have an impact on your test I'm only asking because I have noticed I have certain plants doing beyond amazing things at this point and other plants that seem to be struggling based on sunlight temperature water and Heat unfortunately I do live in a very humid climate I have some of my tomato plants and Shake cover another son direct sunlight can you tell me if this has been researched based on solar maximum and solar minimum periods
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