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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
Chevy Truck Engine - Remove & Replace Part II

Chevy Truck Engine - Remove & Replace Part II

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
Chevy Truck Engine - Remove & Replace Part II Keith: Pull the intake! Pull the water pump off! Pull the ignition packs off! Pull off the exhaust manifolds off. Pull the harmonic balancer! Get some room and make it EZ! The center button on the torque converter which goes into the back of the crankshaft was likely what was giving you trouble getting the engine and trans' separated. Try popping out that round spring clip retained plug at the bottom of the bell housing. It provides easy access to the starter gear and a good place to place a pry bar to get the converter and the flex plate apart and separate the engine and trans. Did this job on my 2007 Avalanche. Front suspension is different, the rest looks real familiar.
Date: 2020-08-05

Comments and reviews: 9


As I was watching you fight those dowel pins, I wanted to reach through the screen and wiggle left to right from the FRONT of the engine using the throttle body / front of intake. I think it might have resulted in much more effective leverage than trying to pry from the bottom. I dont think the dowel pins are anywhere long enough to break the bell housing. And, then, presto, it instantly cocked sideways once you finally got it - somewhat proving my flaky theory here. GREAT JOB!
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Removing intake makes it go alot smoother.
Knock sensors need cleaned and resealed from ext. elements and intake gaskets are known to create lean conditions at cold temps.
No broken map sensor or intake and it makes getting to top bolts on trans and grounds much easier.
Like ur videos. I'm a shop owner of 30years so I'm with you on the headaches but it's in the blood sort of speak

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Cool video, funny last night was removing the same engine 4. 8 to 5. 3 swap. I also had the same issue with the engine it was stupper stuck, after counting all the housing thread's and yea its 8 total. Got frustrated and left the housing holes and pins soked over night with PB blaster. Woke up early and did sake and pulled with a bar till it broke loose.
cool video

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Doubt if Eric ever comes back to see comments on these old vids, but I'd be interested to know if there was another silverado to do, would he: pull the radiator? Use a beam balance for the lift? Remove the intake manifold before pulling? Seems like those things would make it easier (at least for a guy who has no power tools, but maybe not worth the effort.
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how come you didnt want to take the grill, bumper and rad/condenser out? could've came straight out the front. also wonder if it would've been less messing around to disconnect front/rear driveshafts and take engine and tran out together through the front. easier to split the two and put them back together out of the truck and easier to put it back in.
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Chevy/gmc glue the engine and transmission togather. I usually jack under the bell housing with the motor mounts still attached to break the glue. Worst case is a bent fly wheel but in changing the whole motor with a junkyard one with a flywheel. No issue.
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Nice to see your daughter helping you. My kids have always been involved in projects with me. My girls know much more about mechanics and building than their boyfriends now who are basically button pushers. Great video and real work not button pushing.
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the enginers are the problems with any newer cars or trucks? / they do not work on them? they can give you that two inches you need to work on them // any budy that complans about what they charge has never worked on this stuff
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great video. im fixin to do the same with a 4. 3 in a 91 sonoma. its gonna suck but at least its gonna suck with a new premium longblock. i already have a used engine ( it knocks a bit ), dont need another one.
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