I tried finding Hidden Gems on AliExpress AGAIN! (Part 6)
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Date: 2023-09-18
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Comments and reviews: 20
education
The MH-CD42 battery charger/boost converter is flooded around aliexpress. Although it's a good product, but there're some problems.
First, it has a idle auto shutdown feature, as you said. But the idle current is never accurate. It's 20mA(some say 25mA, see how messy it is) according to specs, but I've experienced some unit still shutdown under 90mA loading. However, there's a upgraded version without the auto shutdown feature comes in white PCB, about 4x price. But it seems became rare, not easy to buy. Also the form factor is a big issue. You see the button is either on board or optionally connect via a pad on the PCB by soldering a wire. This make no sense for anything isn't prototype. Also since it's flooded on market, there's no similar module with similar specs and features set under similar price but for SMT. As in my option, this isn't production ready, it actually increase difficulty&cost for sourcing suitable module for productions. As an example, I end up use two modules, one for charging and one for boost in some past project.
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The MH-CD42 battery charger/boost converter is flooded around aliexpress. Although it's a good product, but there're some problems.
First, it has a idle auto shutdown feature, as you said. But the idle current is never accurate. It's 20mA(some say 25mA, see how messy it is) according to specs, but I've experienced some unit still shutdown under 90mA loading. However, there's a upgraded version without the auto shutdown feature comes in white PCB, about 4x price. But it seems became rare, not easy to buy. Also the form factor is a big issue. You see the button is either on board or optionally connect via a pad on the PCB by soldering a wire. This make no sense for anything isn't prototype. Also since it's flooded on market, there's no similar module with similar specs and features set under similar price but for SMT. As in my option, this isn't production ready, it actually increase difficulty&cost for sourcing suitable module for productions. As an example, I end up use two modules, one for charging and one for boost in some past project.
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EFormance
2 issues: T-tap connectors are generally used by car accessory installers, in those cases the mating ends are usually pre-terminated or pre-stripped, so it really is faster to just clamp the correct (color matching, red, blue) T-tap to send something like a low current remote signal, or 12v at less than 3A. Second, that ATX power supply trigger doesn't have a load resistor. I've run into ATX supplies that won't turn on without a load, and ideally you should have some sort of load to make the power supply regulate. I would expect a good ATX trigger to have a load resistor, otherwise you can't know what power supply the customer is plugging into it and thus get a bad experience.
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2 issues: T-tap connectors are generally used by car accessory installers, in those cases the mating ends are usually pre-terminated or pre-stripped, so it really is faster to just clamp the correct (color matching, red, blue) T-tap to send something like a low current remote signal, or 12v at less than 3A. Second, that ATX power supply trigger doesn't have a load resistor. I've run into ATX supplies that won't turn on without a load, and ideally you should have some sort of load to make the power supply regulate. I would expect a good ATX trigger to have a load resistor, otherwise you can't know what power supply the customer is plugging into it and thus get a bad experience.
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Radek
Word of warning. Do not use the ATX powersupply as lab benchtop powersupply. It seems like it does not have any overcurrent protection, so it can easily fry your board.
For portable work I use FNIRSI DC-6something something. I paid cca 35EUR for it and it works fine. The funny thing is that it does not even have built in power source so you must provide your own adapter or USB-C power, but it is small and has the basic lab benchtop power supply features (overcurrent protection, overtemperature protection, on/off button, etc.
It is by no means perfect but better than forcing 50W into short on your board: -)
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Word of warning. Do not use the ATX powersupply as lab benchtop powersupply. It seems like it does not have any overcurrent protection, so it can easily fry your board.
For portable work I use FNIRSI DC-6something something. I paid cca 35EUR for it and it works fine. The funny thing is that it does not even have built in power source so you must provide your own adapter or USB-C power, but it is small and has the basic lab benchtop power supply features (overcurrent protection, overtemperature protection, on/off button, etc.
It is by no means perfect but better than forcing 50W into short on your board: -)
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RottenFishbone
Kinda looked like an infomercial failing on purpose with the easy-outs. Cheaping out is definitely not a good idea when it comes to bits but if you use them with patience and precision (keep the hole as tight as possible i. e. no wiggling around) and using the correct rotation directions then you can certainly save parts. I'd also test it in metal, not wood, as you're likely to be dealing with machine screws trying to save something expensive, not a 2x4.
All that said, even with the best bits following best practice, sometimes they just make it worse. Sometimes you just gotta drill and retap.
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Kinda looked like an infomercial failing on purpose with the easy-outs. Cheaping out is definitely not a good idea when it comes to bits but if you use them with patience and precision (keep the hole as tight as possible i. e. no wiggling around) and using the correct rotation directions then you can certainly save parts. I'd also test it in metal, not wood, as you're likely to be dealing with machine screws trying to save something expensive, not a 2x4.
All that said, even with the best bits following best practice, sometimes they just make it worse. Sometimes you just gotta drill and retap.
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Agasa's
about the T-splitter connector: I've seen it used in some contexts in which you need to steal current from an existing setup that might be quite tight without redoing the wiring for example to add some stuff to a car, an example is stealing power from the high beams of your car to send the opening signal to your garage door. (and make it so that it only works once per activation and not that it keeps pressing if you enable them, it's meant to go with a quick flicker of course) and in that case it can work fine because it makes you access the cables without fiddling with them too much
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about the T-splitter connector: I've seen it used in some contexts in which you need to steal current from an existing setup that might be quite tight without redoing the wiring for example to add some stuff to a car, an example is stealing power from the high beams of your car to send the opening signal to your garage door. (and make it so that it only works once per activation and not that it keeps pressing if you enable them, it's meant to go with a quick flicker of course) and in that case it can work fine because it makes you access the cables without fiddling with them too much
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Evgen
The T-terminal has several advantages.
Firstly, there are situations where the wire does not have extra length, so it cannot be cut and stripped as with Wago.
Secondly, there are places where it is difficult to reach with a tool, and it is more convenient to simply clamp the terminal with pliers, and then crimp the wire in a comfortable location.
Thirdly, the T-terminal allows you to return the wire to its original state by simply adding a bit of insulation, and there is no need to solder the wire again.
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The T-terminal has several advantages.
Firstly, there are situations where the wire does not have extra length, so it cannot be cut and stripped as with Wago.
Secondly, there are places where it is difficult to reach with a tool, and it is more convenient to simply clamp the terminal with pliers, and then crimp the wire in a comfortable location.
Thirdly, the T-terminal allows you to return the wire to its original state by simply adding a bit of insulation, and there is no need to solder the wire again.
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Brad
The T splitters are actually very useful for adding to an electrical harness in a car without cutting the wire. I would not use it for anything high current, but they were awesome for connecting the backup light wire to my dashcam/backup cam. I did not want to cut the existing wire, and I wanted it to be removable.
Your complaint that there is only one size is unfounded as there are at least three sizes available.
I would recommend adding dielectric grease to the connector before attaching it to the wire.
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The T splitters are actually very useful for adding to an electrical harness in a car without cutting the wire. I would not use it for anything high current, but they were awesome for connecting the backup light wire to my dashcam/backup cam. I did not want to cut the existing wire, and I wanted it to be removable.
Your complaint that there is only one size is unfounded as there are at least three sizes available.
I would recommend adding dielectric grease to the connector before attaching it to the wire.
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Spencer
I've used similar T-splices when I want to add sensing leads to an existing line, though mine were the parallel style, which don't require a spade connector. They capture both attached cables with the same splicing bar. If you have the right size, my experience has been great because you can add them with just some pliers, and then you instantly have a conection you can use for voltage sensing. But the page advertising them as low resistance and fast is definitely being disingenuous.
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I've used similar T-splices when I want to add sensing leads to an existing line, though mine were the parallel style, which don't require a spade connector. They capture both attached cables with the same splicing bar. If you have the right size, my experience has been great because you can add them with just some pliers, and then you instantly have a conection you can use for voltage sensing. But the page advertising them as low resistance and fast is definitely being disingenuous.
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merlozzo
The T splitter connectors - here we call them something that sounds like current thieves - comes in different sizes for different wire gauges _ the problem on the long term could be oxydation, one can also use some grease to protect the inner part from moisture. My car dealership used these to connect my rear sensors lol, they are running ok after 12yrs in a mechanically stressed environment. Wagos, btw, are surely better if one can use them (size matters sometimes)
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The T splitter connectors - here we call them something that sounds like current thieves - comes in different sizes for different wire gauges _ the problem on the long term could be oxydation, one can also use some grease to protect the inner part from moisture. My car dealership used these to connect my rear sensors lol, they are running ok after 12yrs in a mechanically stressed environment. Wagos, btw, are surely better if one can use them (size matters sometimes)
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vicente
While I enjoy these videos, I don't really ubderstand things like 'you never know when ordering fron Aliexpress'
?
Why don't you know? Do you buy from brands you don't know about just to see what happens?
Well, it makes for interesting videos, but I think it is misleadibg about the AliExpress experience, when i buy something from Aliexpress, I never get surprised. Products are always fron brands I trust and I get pretty much what I exprect.
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While I enjoy these videos, I don't really ubderstand things like 'you never know when ordering fron Aliexpress'
?
Why don't you know? Do you buy from brands you don't know about just to see what happens?
Well, it makes for interesting videos, but I think it is misleadibg about the AliExpress experience, when i buy something from Aliexpress, I never get surprised. Products are always fron brands I trust and I get pretty much what I exprect.
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education
10: 05 Um, are you using the screw-driver in clockwise mode? You're supposed to run it in REVERSE. Also, I skip the drilling part because that just smooths out the inside of the screw, but skipping it gives the extractor more uneven areas to catch on. And hitting the back of the screw-driver to give it a bit of extra bite into the hole doesn't hurt either. And don't run it so fast! All you'll do is reverse-strip it. _Error 69: EBKAC - RTM_
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10: 05 Um, are you using the screw-driver in clockwise mode? You're supposed to run it in REVERSE. Also, I skip the drilling part because that just smooths out the inside of the screw, but skipping it gives the extractor more uneven areas to catch on. And hitting the back of the screw-driver to give it a bit of extra bite into the hole doesn't hurt either. And don't run it so fast! All you'll do is reverse-strip it. _Error 69: EBKAC - RTM_
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Don
For that little charging circuit, you should have had the battery leads disconnected from the battery to solder the leads to the board - why would you take a chance on shorting out the battery that way? You can always solder the leads back onto the battery later (or use a couple of quick disconnects: ) ) You might want to try a smaller tip for your soldering iron as well - that tip is very ungainly for small work.
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For that little charging circuit, you should have had the battery leads disconnected from the battery to solder the leads to the board - why would you take a chance on shorting out the battery that way? You can always solder the leads back onto the battery later (or use a couple of quick disconnects: ) ) You might want to try a smaller tip for your soldering iron as well - that tip is very ungainly for small work.
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capriracer351
Those T connectors are fairly common in the United States. You can get them is several different sizes for large or small wires. I never liked them and have only used them in temporary wiring to tap in for testing. As for the screw extractors. The good name brand ones work quite well. It looks like the AliExpress ones are not good quality, however.
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Those T connectors are fairly common in the United States. You can get them is several different sizes for large or small wires. I never liked them and have only used them in temporary wiring to tap in for testing. As for the screw extractors. The good name brand ones work quite well. It looks like the AliExpress ones are not good quality, however.
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Jon
When you drill the hole with the screw extractor, try going slower with the extractor. You want it to bite and hold, going fast and wobbling the drill all over is literally the worst way to use it, the bit will never bite and you will just make the problem worse.
My set is designed to use in a hand driver, slow and steady wins the race.
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When you drill the hole with the screw extractor, try going slower with the extractor. You want it to bite and hold, going fast and wobbling the drill all over is literally the worst way to use it, the bit will never bite and you will just make the problem worse.
My set is designed to use in a hand driver, slow and steady wins the race.
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AnTrii
As for screw extractors, you should use both sides of a bit with reverse (counter-clockwise, unscrewing) direction of a drill - check the flute directions out: they should bite in the screw and pull it out, not stroke it and drive it in. It is noticeable that in video it is done the wrong way at all times except at the end of video.
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As for screw extractors, you should use both sides of a bit with reverse (counter-clockwise, unscrewing) direction of a drill - check the flute directions out: they should bite in the screw and pull it out, not stroke it and drive it in. It is noticeable that in video it is done the wrong way at all times except at the end of video.
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education
I try so hard, but no luck, to find a UPS module board, which will keep batteries charged to 3. 7 V, and serve as UPS. Not a good idea to keep them charged to 4. 2 V for 99. 9% of the time.
Please make a video how to modify some existing board, I think you will have a wide audience. Thanks for your videos, always thumbs up.
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I try so hard, but no luck, to find a UPS module board, which will keep batteries charged to 3. 7 V, and serve as UPS. Not a good idea to keep them charged to 4. 2 V for 99. 9% of the time.
Please make a video how to modify some existing board, I think you will have a wide audience. Thanks for your videos, always thumbs up.
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1000Gbps
I don't think it's ok to pull such amps through 24pin ATX connector, but instead using the dedicated 12V lines
And there are better solutions to this - made in china 60V 20 Amp SMPS with some modifications does wonders, the second variant is just to use ol' toroidal transformer (2 x 55-60V 18 Amps) but they weight 15kgs
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I don't think it's ok to pull such amps through 24pin ATX connector, but instead using the dedicated 12V lines
And there are better solutions to this - made in china 60V 20 Amp SMPS with some modifications does wonders, the second variant is just to use ol' toroidal transformer (2 x 55-60V 18 Amps) but they weight 15kgs
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Oleksandr
Regarding battery 5v PCB. I used one and I'm very happy with it. There is a way to keep it on even with small load. There's additional pad on the other side (I believe it's called Key. It needs to be pulled low (I believe) to turn board on. In such way the board will be up while key is pulled to required polarity.
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Regarding battery 5v PCB. I used one and I'm very happy with it. There is a way to keep it on even with small load. There's additional pad on the other side (I believe it's called Key. It needs to be pulled low (I believe) to turn board on. In such way the board will be up while key is pulled to required polarity.
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superdau
The fear of shorting pins on the small power bank board is mostly due to your atrocious soldering style. Seriously, after all of these years of making videos about electronics, I'd expect you to have gotten over the phase of using the soldering iron like a pen to spread solder around (with all of its flux gone.
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The fear of shorting pins on the small power bank board is mostly due to your atrocious soldering style. Seriously, after all of these years of making videos about electronics, I'd expect you to have gotten over the phase of using the soldering iron like a pen to spread solder around (with all of its flux gone.
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BRUXXUS
I've been using those little battery charger/5v boost boards for a while now and they're awesome! But I also agree, the fact it turns off with low current is frustrating. If it's used for a project with a MCU, you can set a pin to send a little pulse to the key line every few seconds to keep it awake, though.
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I've been using those little battery charger/5v boost boards for a while now and they're awesome! But I also agree, the fact it turns off with low current is frustrating. If it's used for a project with a MCU, you can set a pin to send a little pulse to the key line every few seconds to keep it awake, though.
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