How To Build A Raspberry Trellis Keep Your Berries Producing For YEARS!
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Date: 2022-07-18
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Comments and reviews: 14
Tannenbaumgirl
That long cane you showed. looks like that is a black Raspberry cane. check the label (Jewel variety. if that's the case, you'll need to tie the cane along-side to the wires as they're pretty stiff canes, and have killer thorns, and grow more than 8 ft. long canes. I recommend raising black Raspberries on a separate trellis due to their different grow habits. it will be a mess if you allow red/yellow and black berries together, navigating the black raspberry thorns very tricky, and agressive. If they're allowed to arch and tips touch the ground, they will tip root, and that's OK if you want to multiply your plants. Don't allow more than 4 canes growing out from the mother clump, cut out any old brownish and weak canes, and save about 3-4 nice reddish solid ones. Also, don't allow them to grow extremely long. cut tip off after about 8 ft. or so, the canes will branch out from the bottom up, you will want to encourage branching out with black Raspberries, then tie it down onto your wires. Remove excess canes every year as described above. more airy bush = more sun = more branching out = more fruit. So, that's the BLACK Raspberries, now, switching to red/yellow Raspberries and your comments about Floricanes (red and yellow Raspberries. All Canes will last for 2 yrs. in Spring cut those out that fruited the year before (one exception, see below, and let the canes that grew the current year overwinter to the next year when they will fruit and then die off and must be removed so as not to spread diseases, and to keep each clump airy. Those new canes that grow out from the ground every Spring or after dormancy are called Primocanes (stems are green and then turn reddish brown, and then they go dormant during the winter season. After dormancy, the Primocanes then become Floricanes in the 2nd second season. Exception: There are some Raspberry varieties that also bear fruit mid to late summer as Primocane fruit (the first year, those are considered everbearing varieties. go ahead and harvest the fruit and still retain the cane, it will fruit again next summer and will then die, as described above. The Floricanes (2nd year canes mentioned earlier) will produce fruit in early to mid summer. then the canes will die and should be cut out. So, in summary. there are varieties that fruit on Floricanes only, and varieties that fruit on Primocanes (1st yr) and again Floricanes 2nd yr. determined by the variety you have planted. The Black Raspberry is a completely different animal, as described.
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That long cane you showed. looks like that is a black Raspberry cane. check the label (Jewel variety. if that's the case, you'll need to tie the cane along-side to the wires as they're pretty stiff canes, and have killer thorns, and grow more than 8 ft. long canes. I recommend raising black Raspberries on a separate trellis due to their different grow habits. it will be a mess if you allow red/yellow and black berries together, navigating the black raspberry thorns very tricky, and agressive. If they're allowed to arch and tips touch the ground, they will tip root, and that's OK if you want to multiply your plants. Don't allow more than 4 canes growing out from the mother clump, cut out any old brownish and weak canes, and save about 3-4 nice reddish solid ones. Also, don't allow them to grow extremely long. cut tip off after about 8 ft. or so, the canes will branch out from the bottom up, you will want to encourage branching out with black Raspberries, then tie it down onto your wires. Remove excess canes every year as described above. more airy bush = more sun = more branching out = more fruit. So, that's the BLACK Raspberries, now, switching to red/yellow Raspberries and your comments about Floricanes (red and yellow Raspberries. All Canes will last for 2 yrs. in Spring cut those out that fruited the year before (one exception, see below, and let the canes that grew the current year overwinter to the next year when they will fruit and then die off and must be removed so as not to spread diseases, and to keep each clump airy. Those new canes that grow out from the ground every Spring or after dormancy are called Primocanes (stems are green and then turn reddish brown, and then they go dormant during the winter season. After dormancy, the Primocanes then become Floricanes in the 2nd second season. Exception: There are some Raspberry varieties that also bear fruit mid to late summer as Primocane fruit (the first year, those are considered everbearing varieties. go ahead and harvest the fruit and still retain the cane, it will fruit again next summer and will then die, as described above. The Floricanes (2nd year canes mentioned earlier) will produce fruit in early to mid summer. then the canes will die and should be cut out. So, in summary. there are varieties that fruit on Floricanes only, and varieties that fruit on Primocanes (1st yr) and again Floricanes 2nd yr. determined by the variety you have planted. The Black Raspberry is a completely different animal, as described.
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Chris
The moisture in the ground will solidify the concrete. I build pole buildings, we set 10-20ft 2x6 treated post, steel ones once, but you dont have to add water either way. The ground will do it for you. Also, use treated wood, if its coming in contact with the ground use treated wood. Thats why its treated. Its not going to kill you or soak into your veg and be a problem. It will soak into the soil but its in concrete and only a few inches touching dirt. But nice build
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The moisture in the ground will solidify the concrete. I build pole buildings, we set 10-20ft 2x6 treated post, steel ones once, but you dont have to add water either way. The ground will do it for you. Also, use treated wood, if its coming in contact with the ground use treated wood. Thats why its treated. Its not going to kill you or soak into your veg and be a problem. It will soak into the soil but its in concrete and only a few inches touching dirt. But nice build
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Mellow
Nice vid: ) worth mentioning is that if you live in a place where the ground freezes, then the depth of your trellis post holes should be deeper than where the frost reaches.
This will prevent the freezing and thawing of the soil from cropping up the cement (and post imbedded in the cement.
This is also true for any kind of DIY building project that entails pouring a foundation: )
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Nice vid: ) worth mentioning is that if you live in a place where the ground freezes, then the depth of your trellis post holes should be deeper than where the frost reaches.
This will prevent the freezing and thawing of the soil from cropping up the cement (and post imbedded in the cement.
This is also true for any kind of DIY building project that entails pouring a foundation: )
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Maria
My neighbour has planted raspberries along the fence that separates our properties. My side of the fence has ornamental shrubs and flowers. As much as I enjoy raspberries, I don't want to grow them in my flower beds. I've been pulling shoots for the past two years and, quite frankly am getting tired of digging up my beds. What can I do to keep the raspberry shoots out of my flower bed?
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My neighbour has planted raspberries along the fence that separates our properties. My side of the fence has ornamental shrubs and flowers. As much as I enjoy raspberries, I don't want to grow them in my flower beds. I've been pulling shoots for the past two years and, quite frankly am getting tired of digging up my beds. What can I do to keep the raspberry shoots out of my flower bed?
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Matthys
Great video, Kevin. You explained things so well throughout the video. Thank you!
If you ever need to anchor posts into the ground again and don't want to wait for concrete to dry/set, there is this concrete type expansion foam which sets almost instantly. One version of it is called Expanda-Crete. You also don't need to worry about a water to concrete ratio so much.
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Great video, Kevin. You explained things so well throughout the video. Thank you!
If you ever need to anchor posts into the ground again and don't want to wait for concrete to dry/set, there is this concrete type expansion foam which sets almost instantly. One version of it is called Expanda-Crete. You also don't need to worry about a water to concrete ratio so much.
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epic_gardening
Most of the time you can just bury the post in ground and tamp it well. You should always include a back brace of some sort, your wire will eventually cause your posts to tip inwards, even with concrete. You can purchase ground anchors, gripple makes some nice ones that you drive into the ground. Use a turnbuckle when you install so you can get it ultra tight
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Most of the time you can just bury the post in ground and tamp it well. You should always include a back brace of some sort, your wire will eventually cause your posts to tip inwards, even with concrete. You can purchase ground anchors, gripple makes some nice ones that you drive into the ground. Use a turnbuckle when you install so you can get it ultra tight
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David
We planted our raspberries along side of our field fencing (wolven wire fencing. It works out well for us.
We grow as much fruit and vegetables as we can.
This spring we planted 3 Honey Crisp apple trees, 1 Skeena cherry, 2 Rainer cherry, 1 Donut Peach.
All our fruit trees are Dwarf (3/4. Were looking forward for our first harvest.
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We planted our raspberries along side of our field fencing (wolven wire fencing. It works out well for us.
We grow as much fruit and vegetables as we can.
This spring we planted 3 Honey Crisp apple trees, 1 Skeena cherry, 2 Rainer cherry, 1 Donut Peach.
All our fruit trees are Dwarf (3/4. Were looking forward for our first harvest.
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quartztoad
I was just watching your summer harvest video from a few days ago and saw your strawberry bed. Have you tried any pineberry or pineapple berries? They are super productive and the berries are sweeter than my seascape strawberries. They produce so many berries and runners. I spend more time pruning my pineberries than any other plants.
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I was just watching your summer harvest video from a few days ago and saw your strawberry bed. Have you tried any pineberry or pineapple berries? They are super productive and the berries are sweeter than my seascape strawberries. They produce so many berries and runners. I spend more time pruning my pineberries than any other plants.
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Connor
The way you do this is kind of against the way Raspberries want to naturally grow, so you're going to limit yourself on your harvest. I've been growing raspberries for years(23 years) and you don't need to trellis them at all, their the kind of briar patch you can let grow without anything supporting them because they support themselves.
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The way you do this is kind of against the way Raspberries want to naturally grow, so you're going to limit yourself on your harvest. I've been growing raspberries for years(23 years) and you don't need to trellis them at all, their the kind of briar patch you can let grow without anything supporting them because they support themselves.
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Monika
I hit the lottery. Husband found someone getting rid of some metal grid used In a store as a display rack. Now he is more favorable to vines. Going to use a couple for loofa and a couple on the front of the house for bougainvillea that I've wanted to get for pollinators and security for years.
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I hit the lottery. Husband found someone getting rid of some metal grid used In a store as a display rack. Now he is more favorable to vines. Going to use a couple for loofa and a couple on the front of the house for bougainvillea that I've wanted to get for pollinators and security for years.
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Stephen
We have VERY invasive blackberry plants up in my area (OR/WA border) so I would love to do something like that but not sure what varieties that I can use in raspberry or blackberry that aren't invasive. Nothing like having runners pop up in random areas throughout the landscape.
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We have VERY invasive blackberry plants up in my area (OR/WA border) so I would love to do something like that but not sure what varieties that I can use in raspberry or blackberry that aren't invasive. Nothing like having runners pop up in random areas throughout the landscape.
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Meghan
Just an FYI, if you live in an area where the ground freezes, do not set your poles in concrete, it will break or heave sooner rather than later and digging it out to replace it every few years will get old really quick. The poles need to be deeper and set in gravel.
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Just an FYI, if you live in an area where the ground freezes, do not set your poles in concrete, it will break or heave sooner rather than later and digging it out to replace it every few years will get old really quick. The poles need to be deeper and set in gravel.
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Mack
My grandmas raspberries spread under ground (I think) like crazy. Where she moves over they dont pop up but in her vegetable bed about 10 or so feet away the raspberries start popping up. Let us know if this happens to you! Or if you have a game plan already.
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My grandmas raspberries spread under ground (I think) like crazy. Where she moves over they dont pop up but in her vegetable bed about 10 or so feet away the raspberries start popping up. Let us know if this happens to you! Or if you have a game plan already.
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Reginald
Can someone explain me what is a growing area or zoning area, not sure? I mean i hear Kevin sometimes say, im in San Diego area, 33b or something like that. What does that mean? And if im from Montreal, how would i know in which one im in? Thanks guys!
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Can someone explain me what is a growing area or zoning area, not sure? I mean i hear Kevin sometimes say, im in San Diego area, 33b or something like that. What does that mean? And if im from Montreal, how would i know in which one im in? Thanks guys!
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