I Need Help with this Old Musket in the Cabin
video description
Date: 2026-10-28
Related videos
Comments and reviews: 20
LorGrimshandl-t9c
myselfreliance
This rifle looks quite similar to historical hunting guns I've seen in the Jagdmuseum in Munich in my estimation early 19 late 18 century from it's engineering and gunsmith craftsmenship I'd suppose this model is way older stemming from Europe (german/french)developers similar to frontloading rifles first half 1700 but brought to the USA and replicated by gunsmiths there.
The hinge in the brass plating on the shaft shows that there may be some bullets and powder be carried in the internals of the shaft to stay safe and dry.
The metal plating also means the shaft was supposed as a kind of club in close quarter battles like crashing skulls.
Weapons like that in Germany were called Vorderlader Flinten translating to front loading rifles with a => flint-lock.
You need round patches of linen or thin cotton which You wrap half way around the round to load and sperate those lead rounds from the black powder.
Don't prime the pan before the barrel is fully loaded.
If thin paraffin drenched patches are used the powder can stay dry and safe in the barrel an for month up to years.
Some hunters used so called plugs German Stopfen made from knead or liquid beeswax mixed with black powder to 70% powder 30% wax to seal the pan on the flint against moist and rain but ready to fire.
Rifles like this are able to be seen loaded and fired in Burt Lancasters movie The Kentuckian
Since I've haven't seen any pouncing or engravings on the barrel about the steel/quality I wouldn't start higher than 3 gramm of black powder which equals to about 45 grains.
But before I'd sorrowly clean the lower part of the barrel with basic (chemical opposite of acidic) weapon oil like from Balistol or WD-40 gunoil to solve clean out all former acidic black powder residues (Sulfuric => acidic) with a soft bristeld brush or a piece of linen screwed on top of a so called cleaning stick after You soaked that barrel internally in that oil for a night.
Btw. using such a massive caliber in my estimation caliber 45 upwards isn't very good waidmenship => not fair for roe-deer rather than moose and bears due to relative low muzzle velocity but MASSIVE exit wounds caused by mushroom-shaped deformation of those soft lead rounds.
A round like that easily could cause exit wounds big enough to cause field amputations on men's legs in Field-Lazaretts.
I personally wouldn't call such a rifle fair for hunt on any game nowadays but for plain self defence.
reply
myselfreliance
This rifle looks quite similar to historical hunting guns I've seen in the Jagdmuseum in Munich in my estimation early 19 late 18 century from it's engineering and gunsmith craftsmenship I'd suppose this model is way older stemming from Europe (german/french)developers similar to frontloading rifles first half 1700 but brought to the USA and replicated by gunsmiths there.
The hinge in the brass plating on the shaft shows that there may be some bullets and powder be carried in the internals of the shaft to stay safe and dry.
The metal plating also means the shaft was supposed as a kind of club in close quarter battles like crashing skulls.
Weapons like that in Germany were called Vorderlader Flinten translating to front loading rifles with a => flint-lock.
You need round patches of linen or thin cotton which You wrap half way around the round to load and sperate those lead rounds from the black powder.
Don't prime the pan before the barrel is fully loaded.
If thin paraffin drenched patches are used the powder can stay dry and safe in the barrel an for month up to years.
Some hunters used so called plugs German Stopfen made from knead or liquid beeswax mixed with black powder to 70% powder 30% wax to seal the pan on the flint against moist and rain but ready to fire.
Rifles like this are able to be seen loaded and fired in Burt Lancasters movie The Kentuckian
Since I've haven't seen any pouncing or engravings on the barrel about the steel/quality I wouldn't start higher than 3 gramm of black powder which equals to about 45 grains.
But before I'd sorrowly clean the lower part of the barrel with basic (chemical opposite of acidic) weapon oil like from Balistol or WD-40 gunoil to solve clean out all former acidic black powder residues (Sulfuric => acidic) with a soft bristeld brush or a piece of linen screwed on top of a so called cleaning stick after You soaked that barrel internally in that oil for a night.
Btw. using such a massive caliber in my estimation caliber 45 upwards isn't very good waidmenship => not fair for roe-deer rather than moose and bears due to relative low muzzle velocity but MASSIVE exit wounds caused by mushroom-shaped deformation of those soft lead rounds.
A round like that easily could cause exit wounds big enough to cause field amputations on men's legs in Field-Lazaretts.
I personally wouldn't call such a rifle fair for hunt on any game nowadays but for plain self defence.
reply
lae52
Shawn, what you have is 0. 45 caliber Lancaster style flintlock. I can't see the name on the barrel, but it appears to be very well made. The other rod is more than likely a loading rod. You need to get a 3/8 hickory dowel for a ramrod. I usually split mine out of 3/4 hickory planks from Menards. You can buy hickory ramrods, but good ones are hard to find. The ramrod should hopefully be outside barrel length with a metal tip that's threaded for your cleaning jags. The. 440 round ball will work perfectly with geased/lubed patch of natural fiber that's about 10-12 thousands thick. I shoot Goex 3f in my flint 45. You can prime with 3f. I can't really tell the diffence between 3 and 4f. I shoot 67 grains and lube my patches with bear grease. You will need to work up a load if you don't know what was shot. Start at 55 grains and work up to 80gr or so varying by 5. Once you get a good group you can make your divisions finer if you want. Don't worry about sight picture initially, you're going for the best group. Once you've got a good group then you can fiddle with the sights. I hunt in the North Country - Lake Superior area. Here's my routine for deer hunting in the snow. I load 2 or 3 plastic film cans with my desired load I have a wood loading block that will hold the same number of patched round balls. I carry a small flat priming horn for priming. The beauty of this arrangement is that it will fit in my hunting coat pocket with no need for a bag. I've over simplified it, but that's the gist of it. Carry a couple of wood toothpicks to stick in the touch hole when the pan is cleaned at the end of the day to seal up the rifle load. Close the frizzen over the toothpick and leave the rifle outside. Lastly, DO NOT SHOOT the 451 balls in the rifle. They are for a percussion revolver and are over size. Feel free to contact me if I can be of any help. I'm a custom black powder builder and have taught Kentucky Rifle building classes for the local technical school.
reply
Shawn, what you have is 0. 45 caliber Lancaster style flintlock. I can't see the name on the barrel, but it appears to be very well made. The other rod is more than likely a loading rod. You need to get a 3/8 hickory dowel for a ramrod. I usually split mine out of 3/4 hickory planks from Menards. You can buy hickory ramrods, but good ones are hard to find. The ramrod should hopefully be outside barrel length with a metal tip that's threaded for your cleaning jags. The. 440 round ball will work perfectly with geased/lubed patch of natural fiber that's about 10-12 thousands thick. I shoot Goex 3f in my flint 45. You can prime with 3f. I can't really tell the diffence between 3 and 4f. I shoot 67 grains and lube my patches with bear grease. You will need to work up a load if you don't know what was shot. Start at 55 grains and work up to 80gr or so varying by 5. Once you get a good group you can make your divisions finer if you want. Don't worry about sight picture initially, you're going for the best group. Once you've got a good group then you can fiddle with the sights. I hunt in the North Country - Lake Superior area. Here's my routine for deer hunting in the snow. I load 2 or 3 plastic film cans with my desired load I have a wood loading block that will hold the same number of patched round balls. I carry a small flat priming horn for priming. The beauty of this arrangement is that it will fit in my hunting coat pocket with no need for a bag. I've over simplified it, but that's the gist of it. Carry a couple of wood toothpicks to stick in the touch hole when the pan is cleaned at the end of the day to seal up the rifle load. Close the frizzen over the toothpick and leave the rifle outside. Lastly, DO NOT SHOOT the 451 balls in the rifle. They are for a percussion revolver and are over size. Feel free to contact me if I can be of any help. I'm a custom black powder builder and have taught Kentucky Rifle building classes for the local technical school.
reply
davidsolomon7377
Larry Mrock is a highly regarded, master contemporary gunsmith based out of Maine, known for building exceptionally crafted, historical reproduction blackpowder muzzleloaders.
His work is heavily inspired by 18th-century master gunsmiths, such as Jacob Bonewitz and George Schroyer. Original pieces and custom builds by Mrock are highly sought after by historical reenactors, collectors, and blackpowder muzzleloader enthusiasts.
Signature Characteristics of Larry Mrock Rifles
Custom pieces built by Larry Mrock typically feature premium, period-correct detailing, including:
Swivel Breech Designs: He is highly celebrated in muzzleloading communities for his complex over/under (O/U) swivel breech flintlock rifles.
Intricate Woodwork: Most builds utilize premium fancy curly maple or tiger maple stocks, often finished with relief carvings around the comb, lock, side plates, and tang.
Ornate Inlays: His rifles frequently display detailed brass and German silver inlays (such as 8-point stars on the cheekpiece) and engraved patchboxes with decorative finials.
Maker Marks: His authentic work is typically signed and dated on the top flats of the barrel or lock plate (e. g, marked L. Mrock.
Market Value & Collectibility
Because these are custom, bench-made artisan firearms, they command a premium on the secondary market. Depending on the complexity of the engraving, wood grade, and whether it features a standard longrifle configuration or a rare swivel breech, a Larry Mrock contemporary piece generally commands between $4, 000 and $7, 500 at specialized firearm auctions and virtual historical showcases.
If you are looking to find a specific piece, verify an investment, or require care instructions for a firearm, let me know:
reply
Larry Mrock is a highly regarded, master contemporary gunsmith based out of Maine, known for building exceptionally crafted, historical reproduction blackpowder muzzleloaders.
His work is heavily inspired by 18th-century master gunsmiths, such as Jacob Bonewitz and George Schroyer. Original pieces and custom builds by Mrock are highly sought after by historical reenactors, collectors, and blackpowder muzzleloader enthusiasts.
Signature Characteristics of Larry Mrock Rifles
Custom pieces built by Larry Mrock typically feature premium, period-correct detailing, including:
Swivel Breech Designs: He is highly celebrated in muzzleloading communities for his complex over/under (O/U) swivel breech flintlock rifles.
Intricate Woodwork: Most builds utilize premium fancy curly maple or tiger maple stocks, often finished with relief carvings around the comb, lock, side plates, and tang.
Ornate Inlays: His rifles frequently display detailed brass and German silver inlays (such as 8-point stars on the cheekpiece) and engraved patchboxes with decorative finials.
Maker Marks: His authentic work is typically signed and dated on the top flats of the barrel or lock plate (e. g, marked L. Mrock.
Market Value & Collectibility
Because these are custom, bench-made artisan firearms, they command a premium on the secondary market. Depending on the complexity of the engraving, wood grade, and whether it features a standard longrifle configuration or a rare swivel breech, a Larry Mrock contemporary piece generally commands between $4, 000 and $7, 500 at specialized firearm auctions and virtual historical showcases.
If you are looking to find a specific piece, verify an investment, or require care instructions for a firearm, let me know:
reply
JMFAmerican
What is It you seek I have some muzzle loader experience ( hunting & target shooting. As for historic value if any; you need to allow someone hands-on examination. Your quick camera scan isn't helpful. Yet, based on you flashing the camera by some tell-tail signs (screws) the rifle appears to be a modern copy. If it is inspect the muzzle due to the powder left in. Powder = corrosion
. There are extraction tools to properly remove the wad / powder from the gun. Why you hand u load after hunting days come to an end instead of just firing to unload. Again, corrosion. These prices must be completely desasmbled for cleaning. After about six shots you loose accuracy and the rifle needs cleaning. I can tell a lot in a conversation where question can be asked. You can still find good books as well as on line info ( videos. First thing first; safety. Have someone in your local area get hands on it and speak to him. There are muzzle loader clubs etc most places in Canada as well as the USA. It appears you have most of what you need in the trunk. If you want supplied for muzzle loader all my on-line sources are state side ( ask & I will send ) If you get into muzzle loading you'll learn the two worlds of muzzle loading. Old school ( what you have ) and modern ( looks like a modern rifle and easier to clean, more accurate etc. it's a fun time. Enjoy.
reply
What is It you seek I have some muzzle loader experience ( hunting & target shooting. As for historic value if any; you need to allow someone hands-on examination. Your quick camera scan isn't helpful. Yet, based on you flashing the camera by some tell-tail signs (screws) the rifle appears to be a modern copy. If it is inspect the muzzle due to the powder left in. Powder = corrosion
. There are extraction tools to properly remove the wad / powder from the gun. Why you hand u load after hunting days come to an end instead of just firing to unload. Again, corrosion. These prices must be completely desasmbled for cleaning. After about six shots you loose accuracy and the rifle needs cleaning. I can tell a lot in a conversation where question can be asked. You can still find good books as well as on line info ( videos. First thing first; safety. Have someone in your local area get hands on it and speak to him. There are muzzle loader clubs etc most places in Canada as well as the USA. It appears you have most of what you need in the trunk. If you want supplied for muzzle loader all my on-line sources are state side ( ask & I will send ) If you get into muzzle loading you'll learn the two worlds of muzzle loading. Old school ( what you have ) and modern ( looks like a modern rifle and easier to clean, more accurate etc. it's a fun time. Enjoy.
reply
shawn_james
That looks to be a custom made rifle. I doubt it is original to the 18th century, but it is probably a custom rifle made by someone who knew what they were doing. The button on the buttplate should pop that patch box on the stock open. Probably a. 50 or. 54 caliber. I would use FFF powder in the barrel and FFFF in the flashpan (you can use the FFF for both, honestly. Start off with 50 to 60 grains of powder (that brass tube you show at the end. It's adjustable and will have numbers up the side of it. Don't go over 100 grains of powder.
I would shoot powder through it first to make sure it sparks and fires fine before loading a projectile.
1. Pour the measured powder down the barrel and keep the barrel upright.
2. Put a very small amount in the flashpan and close the frizzen over the powder.
3. Pull the hammer back and fire it.
Once you have shot two or three blanks through it, you can now load a round ball and patch. Set the patch centered over the muzzle and place the ball in the center. Use a ball-starter (might look like a T handle or a wooden ball on a short dow rod. This will get the ball started down the barrel so you don't have to awkwardly use the ramrod. Then ram the ball down the barrel until seated.
Then repeat steps 2 and 3. If it flashes but doesn't fire, keep it aimed in a safe direction -it could hang-fire.
reply
That looks to be a custom made rifle. I doubt it is original to the 18th century, but it is probably a custom rifle made by someone who knew what they were doing. The button on the buttplate should pop that patch box on the stock open. Probably a. 50 or. 54 caliber. I would use FFF powder in the barrel and FFFF in the flashpan (you can use the FFF for both, honestly. Start off with 50 to 60 grains of powder (that brass tube you show at the end. It's adjustable and will have numbers up the side of it. Don't go over 100 grains of powder.
I would shoot powder through it first to make sure it sparks and fires fine before loading a projectile.
1. Pour the measured powder down the barrel and keep the barrel upright.
2. Put a very small amount in the flashpan and close the frizzen over the powder.
3. Pull the hammer back and fire it.
Once you have shot two or three blanks through it, you can now load a round ball and patch. Set the patch centered over the muzzle and place the ball in the center. Use a ball-starter (might look like a T handle or a wooden ball on a short dow rod. This will get the ball started down the barrel so you don't have to awkwardly use the ramrod. Then ram the ball down the barrel until seated.
Then repeat steps 2 and 3. If it flashes but doesn't fire, keep it aimed in a safe direction -it could hang-fire.
reply
jrexplores5488
Looks to be a Pennsylvania style flintlock that’s in the. 45cal flavor. The other ramrod that came with it is probably a range rod so you don’t mess up the ramrod on the rifle that’s now missing. Your box had a lot of white cloth, that’s probably the patch material the previous owner used to patch his roundball with. You would place the patch over the end of the muzzle then place a ball on top of it and cut the remainder with a patch knife. Didn’t catch what goex powder you have but black powder is sold in sizes of the powder flake, think table salt vs course salt. With it being a 45cal I’d want to pick up some 3fff size black powder and would use the same in the pan. Once you know for sure it isn’t loaded I’d recommend really inspecting the barrel for pitting and rust before loading it up and shooting it, chances are that’s going to be a good shooting rifle though! The name etched in the barrel is probably the guy who made it or at least the first guy to own it, have no idea the age but it does look pretty old. Wish I was closer I’d bring my. 54 out and show you how to use one, they’re pretty simple as long as you remember powder patch ball! Nothing worse than going patch ball then wondering why it won’t shoot
reply
Looks to be a Pennsylvania style flintlock that’s in the. 45cal flavor. The other ramrod that came with it is probably a range rod so you don’t mess up the ramrod on the rifle that’s now missing. Your box had a lot of white cloth, that’s probably the patch material the previous owner used to patch his roundball with. You would place the patch over the end of the muzzle then place a ball on top of it and cut the remainder with a patch knife. Didn’t catch what goex powder you have but black powder is sold in sizes of the powder flake, think table salt vs course salt. With it being a 45cal I’d want to pick up some 3fff size black powder and would use the same in the pan. Once you know for sure it isn’t loaded I’d recommend really inspecting the barrel for pitting and rust before loading it up and shooting it, chances are that’s going to be a good shooting rifle though! The name etched in the barrel is probably the guy who made it or at least the first guy to own it, have no idea the age but it does look pretty old. Wish I was closer I’d bring my. 54 out and show you how to use one, they’re pretty simple as long as you remember powder patch ball! Nothing worse than going patch ball then wondering why it won’t shoot
reply
joedoe6444
the first thing you need to do is use the second rod, likely a cleaning rod, to check the depth of the barrel on the inside as compared to the outside. if it had powder in the pan, it could also have a ball and powder inside just waiting for an accident to happen. put the rod in and hold your fingers at the end of the barrel and keep them there when you take it out, place it next to the barrel on the outside and mark the depth from the inside on the outside with a piece of tape. then see where the end of the barrel chamber looks like it ends, if it's off by an inch or two, it is likely loaded, if it looks like the rod went all the way to the end of the chamber then it should be clear. if you know anyone that has a bore scope for looking down into small holes, they work well to see what's going on. also, you will want to check out the condition of the bore inside, black powder is very corrosive and will pit the inside of the barrel, it is very important to always clean BP rifles after every use.
is the inside of the barrel riffled, or a smooth bore, that will tell you if it is a riffle or a musket, the musket is smooth.
reply
the first thing you need to do is use the second rod, likely a cleaning rod, to check the depth of the barrel on the inside as compared to the outside. if it had powder in the pan, it could also have a ball and powder inside just waiting for an accident to happen. put the rod in and hold your fingers at the end of the barrel and keep them there when you take it out, place it next to the barrel on the outside and mark the depth from the inside on the outside with a piece of tape. then see where the end of the barrel chamber looks like it ends, if it's off by an inch or two, it is likely loaded, if it looks like the rod went all the way to the end of the chamber then it should be clear. if you know anyone that has a bore scope for looking down into small holes, they work well to see what's going on. also, you will want to check out the condition of the bore inside, black powder is very corrosive and will pit the inside of the barrel, it is very important to always clean BP rifles after every use.
is the inside of the barrel riffled, or a smooth bore, that will tell you if it is a riffle or a musket, the musket is smooth.
reply
PSESales
It is not a
Musket. It is a Kentucky or North Carolina long rifle. Usually 36 cal round ball. It is probable shoot able but it needs cleaning. Remove the barrel and lock from the stock and clean with hot water and dishwashing detergent. Use a bronze brush and wipe the barrel dry with cotton swabs. The last patch should be lightly oiled.
To load is the powder measure. The brass thing. Don’t use then powder horn. Measure out a light charge. Usually 50 grains. Check load manual to be sure. Put around cotton patch over the bore and place the ball on top. Start the ball with a short ramrod to begin engraving the lands to the ball. Then ram the ball all the way home. Make sure there is no space between the ball and the powder.
Now place the hammer at half cock. Put the fine powder from the small flask into the pan and close the cover. Fully cock the hammer aim and pull the trigger. It may have two triggers. If it does the front trigger is the set trigger the rear trigger is the hair trigger. I would take the gun to a gun smith and have it inspected and bore scooped. Have fun.
reply
It is not a
Musket. It is a Kentucky or North Carolina long rifle. Usually 36 cal round ball. It is probable shoot able but it needs cleaning. Remove the barrel and lock from the stock and clean with hot water and dishwashing detergent. Use a bronze brush and wipe the barrel dry with cotton swabs. The last patch should be lightly oiled.
To load is the powder measure. The brass thing. Don’t use then powder horn. Measure out a light charge. Usually 50 grains. Check load manual to be sure. Put around cotton patch over the bore and place the ball on top. Start the ball with a short ramrod to begin engraving the lands to the ball. Then ram the ball all the way home. Make sure there is no space between the ball and the powder.
Now place the hammer at half cock. Put the fine powder from the small flask into the pan and close the cover. Fully cock the hammer aim and pull the trigger. It may have two triggers. If it does the front trigger is the set trigger the rear trigger is the hair trigger. I would take the gun to a gun smith and have it inspected and bore scooped. Have fun.
reply
901ronnie
Beautiful gun - well made - lots of good brass inlayed nicely in the wood. Many barrels with names on them (flintlocks) were made in England. If you know how and feel you can safely take the for-end off without wood splintering then look for proof markets stamped into the barrel or receiver. If you want to shoot it I would take it to a gunsmith and have him throughly examine it to make sure it will fire without damaging it. As your son-in-laws family heirloom it is invaluable but no gunsmith puts that much time and love into a gun that was not meant to be shot. Wish I could tell you more but I spent 4 years in high school and three years in college studying to be a firearms inventor like Dr. Eugene Stone - he was a NASA rocket designer before he left to work for Armalite - PS think AR-10, AR-15, M-16. That Dr. Stoner. Again beautiful beautiful black powder gun. Do you build bows to be wall hangers or used in the field. True gunsmiths are like you - you build it to hunt.
reply
Beautiful gun - well made - lots of good brass inlayed nicely in the wood. Many barrels with names on them (flintlocks) were made in England. If you know how and feel you can safely take the for-end off without wood splintering then look for proof markets stamped into the barrel or receiver. If you want to shoot it I would take it to a gunsmith and have him throughly examine it to make sure it will fire without damaging it. As your son-in-laws family heirloom it is invaluable but no gunsmith puts that much time and love into a gun that was not meant to be shot. Wish I could tell you more but I spent 4 years in high school and three years in college studying to be a firearms inventor like Dr. Eugene Stone - he was a NASA rocket designer before he left to work for Armalite - PS think AR-10, AR-15, M-16. That Dr. Stoner. Again beautiful beautiful black powder gun. Do you build bows to be wall hangers or used in the field. True gunsmiths are like you - you build it to hunt.
reply
hulie1234
thats called phil agree it is a design and a etching that gunsmiths really specialize in my sister husband was going two take up a apprenticeship but decided against it. 50 cal is a great gun love my modern black powder everything is contained in a little plastic bullet. i like them better. ya should clean a gun at least every 3 years at the very least. a gun smith does the barrel it is a twisting bore it is a certain bore two make it spin. but again that is just some thing a gun smith can do pillagree they etch it in metal on hand guns the military always do it on guns for the members it is a high paying job. we live right around ware smith and wesson was made in mass even dan and wesson and all the rest. guns are always worth money i love the new one's my black powder is a riffle best riffle around. 50 cal i like these new ones you dont even have two have a ball there are slugs pointy ones all kinds. just a little fire cap .
reply
thats called phil agree it is a design and a etching that gunsmiths really specialize in my sister husband was going two take up a apprenticeship but decided against it. 50 cal is a great gun love my modern black powder everything is contained in a little plastic bullet. i like them better. ya should clean a gun at least every 3 years at the very least. a gun smith does the barrel it is a twisting bore it is a certain bore two make it spin. but again that is just some thing a gun smith can do pillagree they etch it in metal on hand guns the military always do it on guns for the members it is a high paying job. we live right around ware smith and wesson was made in mass even dan and wesson and all the rest. guns are always worth money i love the new one's my black powder is a riffle best riffle around. 50 cal i like these new ones you dont even have two have a ball there are slugs pointy ones all kinds. just a little fire cap .
reply
youmaus
It looks like you have what you need in the kit. The bore is. 45 caliber, The. 44 caliber balls use a cotton patch that makes up the. 01 difference. Black powder comes in 4 particle sizes. #1 is for cannons #2 for rifles #3 for pistols And #4 is for flash pans. The way to tell if one is loaded is with the ramrod. (it's length. The main concern in loading is to make sure there is no air gap between the powder and the ball. That will make it a pipe bomb. When getting accustomed to it start around 45 grains on your powder measure and work up to 60. Then depending on your own comfort with the recoil and repeatable accuracy you will find what suits you best. Shoot the deer between 50-75 yards. Learn how to clean it and clean it promptly they rust and corrode. Black powder must be kept where static electricity will not ignite it (thus the powder horns) Black powder lasts unchanged for decades.
reply
It looks like you have what you need in the kit. The bore is. 45 caliber, The. 44 caliber balls use a cotton patch that makes up the. 01 difference. Black powder comes in 4 particle sizes. #1 is for cannons #2 for rifles #3 for pistols And #4 is for flash pans. The way to tell if one is loaded is with the ramrod. (it's length. The main concern in loading is to make sure there is no air gap between the powder and the ball. That will make it a pipe bomb. When getting accustomed to it start around 45 grains on your powder measure and work up to 60. Then depending on your own comfort with the recoil and repeatable accuracy you will find what suits you best. Shoot the deer between 50-75 yards. Learn how to clean it and clean it promptly they rust and corrode. Black powder must be kept where static electricity will not ignite it (thus the powder horns) Black powder lasts unchanged for decades.
reply
mentalmetalist
That brass thing in the box is a powder measure. I’d use that over the horn all day. It’s a nice flint lock though. I recommend getting some FFFF powder for it. It’s a finer grain especially when you need to put a splash in the pan. Other than that it’s pretty straightforward. Add powder, then a wad, then the ball. I use old shirts as wad with some ball butter on in. There’s a bit of delay with the flint lock. More so than a regular muzzle loader. I’d practice with it a bit before going off hunting so you get use to holding it on target after the trigger is pulled. There’s not much recoil but rather more of a push. Lastly I’d unscrew the barrel and give it a good cleaning before hand. They do get dirty fast. Enjoy my friend and keep your powder dry
reply
That brass thing in the box is a powder measure. I’d use that over the horn all day. It’s a nice flint lock though. I recommend getting some FFFF powder for it. It’s a finer grain especially when you need to put a splash in the pan. Other than that it’s pretty straightforward. Add powder, then a wad, then the ball. I use old shirts as wad with some ball butter on in. There’s a bit of delay with the flint lock. More so than a regular muzzle loader. I’d practice with it a bit before going off hunting so you get use to holding it on target after the trigger is pulled. There’s not much recoil but rather more of a push. Lastly I’d unscrew the barrel and give it a good cleaning before hand. They do get dirty fast. Enjoy my friend and keep your powder dry
reply
WayneMorris-v1c
Probably not a musket (smoot bore) but a rifled longrifle. The hinged brass patchbox came into use 1770-1790. Looks like a Pennsylvania style, although I would probably say it looks like a really nice reproduction and not an original. Invest in a good vent pick to keep the vent hole cleaned out - makes a huge difference on ignition. The spark needs to jump through the hole! I always make a mark on my ramrod when it is in an empty barrel. That way you will always be sure there is not a load in the barrel. They are so much fun to hunt with! Good luck! If you wrap your flint in a piece of soft lead rather than leather or cloth, you will put a little extra weight on the hammer which gives you a better strike!
reply
Probably not a musket (smoot bore) but a rifled longrifle. The hinged brass patchbox came into use 1770-1790. Looks like a Pennsylvania style, although I would probably say it looks like a really nice reproduction and not an original. Invest in a good vent pick to keep the vent hole cleaned out - makes a huge difference on ignition. The spark needs to jump through the hole! I always make a mark on my ramrod when it is in an empty barrel. That way you will always be sure there is not a load in the barrel. They are so much fun to hunt with! Good luck! If you wrap your flint in a piece of soft lead rather than leather or cloth, you will put a little extra weight on the hammer which gives you a better strike!
reply
edmedlin2936
Good looking rifle. My best advice would be to get together with some other hunter who is well versed in black powder fire arms. Let him teach you about loading and shooting this old flint lock. As another fellow said, the #1 thing is cleaning it well. To really get it clean, disassemble from the stock and use hot, soapy water. Work the ram rod up and down with the butt end of the barrel submerged in hot soapy water. That will pump water in and out the flash hole. If you have compressed air, blow it out good and dry it near or over the wood stove. A light coating of oil will help prevent rust. If some rust does happen, clean with a brass brush. I only ever took one elk, and it was with black powder. 50 caliber.
reply
Good looking rifle. My best advice would be to get together with some other hunter who is well versed in black powder fire arms. Let him teach you about loading and shooting this old flint lock. As another fellow said, the #1 thing is cleaning it well. To really get it clean, disassemble from the stock and use hot, soapy water. Work the ram rod up and down with the butt end of the barrel submerged in hot soapy water. That will pump water in and out the flash hole. If you have compressed air, blow it out good and dry it near or over the wood stove. A light coating of oil will help prevent rust. If some rust does happen, clean with a brass brush. I only ever took one elk, and it was with black powder. 50 caliber.
reply
shawn_james
I have made several flintlock rifles most ly 50 cal. After reading some of the responses I can think of nothing to add except have fun. I always used 4F in the pan when hunting the Shorter the ignition time the better. It may take a bit of time to get used to the flash and delay on the flint ignition, a flash of fire before your eyes tends to break your concentration. The most important thing is clean clean clean, but I am sure your source of information will get into that. Try to keep the same patch material as differences of thickness will cause varying muzzle velocity I always used bear fat for patch lube as the one commenter mentioned but over the counter stuff works too. clean clean clean
reply
I have made several flintlock rifles most ly 50 cal. After reading some of the responses I can think of nothing to add except have fun. I always used 4F in the pan when hunting the Shorter the ignition time the better. It may take a bit of time to get used to the flash and delay on the flint ignition, a flash of fire before your eyes tends to break your concentration. The most important thing is clean clean clean, but I am sure your source of information will get into that. Try to keep the same patch material as differences of thickness will cause varying muzzle velocity I always used bear fat for patch lube as the one commenter mentioned but over the counter stuff works too. clean clean clean
reply
robmarshall5100
It's a Kentucky long rifle the pan and the trigger and the firing mechanisms are all standard in most cases the ornateness is usually the Builder's preference the basically put powder down the barrel you put on a patch put on a ball you bring the ball down to seat you click it back to the first position you put powder in the pan you put it up to your shoulder you aim a you sure just like a modern gun but wear sunglasses and eye protection because black powder will get all over your face and can burn your eyes and you know and you cheeks if you can use triple O7 gunpowder embezzlement and copper inlay pieces and hand carving but the basics of the gun usually it's a 54 caliber use raw powder
reply
It's a Kentucky long rifle the pan and the trigger and the firing mechanisms are all standard in most cases the ornateness is usually the Builder's preference the basically put powder down the barrel you put on a patch put on a ball you bring the ball down to seat you click it back to the first position you put powder in the pan you put it up to your shoulder you aim a you sure just like a modern gun but wear sunglasses and eye protection because black powder will get all over your face and can burn your eyes and you know and you cheeks if you can use triple O7 gunpowder embezzlement and copper inlay pieces and hand carving but the basics of the gun usually it's a 54 caliber use raw powder
reply
KAWARTHALeather
Back when I was 16-17, I was employed by the Toronto Historical Board and worked at Old Fort York in Toronto. I was a member of the Fort York Guard and, as such, got to fire the Brown Bess musket, a muzzle-loader a lot bigger than your rifle. I fired that gun many times and learned something I want to pass on to you. When you fire it make sure you wear a hat with a large brim in front. With that gun, you aim and then use the brim to cover your eyes; otherwise, you get a face full of burnt black powder. Make sure your touch hole is kept clear too.
reply
Back when I was 16-17, I was employed by the Toronto Historical Board and worked at Old Fort York in Toronto. I was a member of the Fort York Guard and, as such, got to fire the Brown Bess musket, a muzzle-loader a lot bigger than your rifle. I fired that gun many times and learned something I want to pass on to you. When you fire it make sure you wear a hat with a large brim in front. With that gun, you aim and then use the brim to cover your eyes; otherwise, you get a face full of burnt black powder. Make sure your touch hole is kept clear too.
reply
inkydoug
You check the condition first thing upon handling a muzzleloader (loaded or unloaded) just as you would with a cartridge firearm. The ramrod, if it's the right length, should fall all the way in the barrel and the end will be flush with the muzzle when it's not loaded. I once popped a cap to make sure the nipple was clear before loading, and thus discovered I left the thing loaded from last season. I shot the ground outside thank God. Don't learn the dangerous way please. Muzzleloaders will kill 100% dead as a 30-06 or what have you.
reply
You check the condition first thing upon handling a muzzleloader (loaded or unloaded) just as you would with a cartridge firearm. The ramrod, if it's the right length, should fall all the way in the barrel and the end will be flush with the muzzle when it's not loaded. I once popped a cap to make sure the nipple was clear before loading, and thus discovered I left the thing loaded from last season. I shot the ground outside thank God. Don't learn the dangerous way please. Muzzleloaders will kill 100% dead as a 30-06 or what have you.
reply
shawn_james
I have a Canadian Frontiersman flintlock that takes 440.
I am just learning. I don't know anything about firearms. My brother is the gun guy. He gave it to me.
Yours wouldn't have gone off. It needs powder in the pan. Mine will misfire five times or more. You have to keep that pan really scraped clean. The flint has to be set just right, and has to always be sharp. There is a whole lot of tools and fittings you will need to get along with a brass ramrod, and keep your original ramrod good for looks.
reply
I have a Canadian Frontiersman flintlock that takes 440.
I am just learning. I don't know anything about firearms. My brother is the gun guy. He gave it to me.
Yours wouldn't have gone off. It needs powder in the pan. Mine will misfire five times or more. You have to keep that pan really scraped clean. The flint has to be set just right, and has to always be sharp. There is a whole lot of tools and fittings you will need to get along with a brass ramrod, and keep your original ramrod good for looks.
reply
shawn_james
Oh to me this looks like a Lancaster style rifle from Pensilvania area. If it is a old one than it is from about 1790. And it is nicely decorated and with all accesoaries to go shooting and hunting. If it is a rebuild it is still a very nice and collectible gun.
Now your cabin is complete with a flintlock rifle on the wall.
You will have a lot of fun going down that rabbit hole. Next will be a buckskin shirt
Kind regards from good old germany Roger S.
reply
Oh to me this looks like a Lancaster style rifle from Pensilvania area. If it is a old one than it is from about 1790. And it is nicely decorated and with all accesoaries to go shooting and hunting. If it is a rebuild it is still a very nice and collectible gun.
Now your cabin is complete with a flintlock rifle on the wall.
You will have a lot of fun going down that rabbit hole. Next will be a buckskin shirt
Kind regards from good old germany Roger S.
reply
Add a review, comment
Other channel videos
38:12
19:9
