Dodge Dakota: Intermittent Skipping, Bucking, Poor Running Part II
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Dennis
Eric, how it goes! I am hoping you can help me as i am in a real jam. my 98 Durango 5. 9 just today blew the 50 amp ignition / starter fuse in the PDC. Didn't know until returning home. while driving (abs light, airbag light illuminated, and the windows are stuck down, and the heater/ac controls do not work ) found it replaced it and it blew again! I have had weird instances only when the engine was warm after driving and then re-starting (i. e stopping at the store ) when turning the key to start it would crank, hesitate, (like lose power for a split second) and then start. and or it would start super quick like with no crank, just vroom and start!
research is showing me a short somewhere, but could the starter and or the Solenoid just be bad? Any insight at all would be greatly appreciated, the truck is stuck at the bottom of driveway with windows down (luckily no rain for a day or so hopefully) but I need to figure this out and quick!
I did do the heater core last year and had the dash down but not out all the way (steering column was dropped) out! Is it possible I damaged a wire up there on the column harness? The truck is about 70% restored as I have put 14 G into it the last 5 years, so it is in pretty good shape overall! I have a used new motor in it w 105K from a rusted out dakota, but the engine didn't have much if any rust! This was 4 years ago as well and have not had any issues other than that random starting thing! The truck has 325K so assuming the starter is the original could it going bad be the issue!
Thanks in advance brother!
Dennis
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Eric, how it goes! I am hoping you can help me as i am in a real jam. my 98 Durango 5. 9 just today blew the 50 amp ignition / starter fuse in the PDC. Didn't know until returning home. while driving (abs light, airbag light illuminated, and the windows are stuck down, and the heater/ac controls do not work ) found it replaced it and it blew again! I have had weird instances only when the engine was warm after driving and then re-starting (i. e stopping at the store ) when turning the key to start it would crank, hesitate, (like lose power for a split second) and then start. and or it would start super quick like with no crank, just vroom and start!
research is showing me a short somewhere, but could the starter and or the Solenoid just be bad? Any insight at all would be greatly appreciated, the truck is stuck at the bottom of driveway with windows down (luckily no rain for a day or so hopefully) but I need to figure this out and quick!
I did do the heater core last year and had the dash down but not out all the way (steering column was dropped) out! Is it possible I damaged a wire up there on the column harness? The truck is about 70% restored as I have put 14 G into it the last 5 years, so it is in pretty good shape overall! I have a used new motor in it w 105K from a rusted out dakota, but the engine didn't have much if any rust! This was 4 years ago as well and have not had any issues other than that random starting thing! The truck has 325K so assuming the starter is the original could it going bad be the issue!
Thanks in advance brother!
Dennis
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Shane
I recently pulled my 4. 7l because the rear tabs on the transmission case were cracked. Thinking it was caused by worn engine mounts, I lifted the engine about 6 to replace the mounts and rusty oil pan. When pulling the wiring harness, a majority of the bank 1 injectors leaked at the rail. So I pulled the fuel rail to replace the o-rings. All of my bank 2 injectors had cracks in the plastic body. The engine ran fine. Since I noticed the fan clutch was leaking and one of the coils was corroded inside I stopped at a pull your parts to get a coil and clutch. I planned to pocket some injectors while I was at it. I pulled the injectors from three 4. 7l engines and they were all cracked. I took the best four to keep as spares, but they turned out to be a different part number than my originals anyway. The plastic at the bottom was red as well instead of the white on mine. Anyway, Im still running the originals with no issue. You got luckier than I on the rail bolts. I snapped the passenger rear one off and its a M10 instead of an M6 now. This all was a result of looking into why my referees lights werent working and checking the switch on the nv3500 trans. Of course I did the hanger bearing and u-joints while I was at it.
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I recently pulled my 4. 7l because the rear tabs on the transmission case were cracked. Thinking it was caused by worn engine mounts, I lifted the engine about 6 to replace the mounts and rusty oil pan. When pulling the wiring harness, a majority of the bank 1 injectors leaked at the rail. So I pulled the fuel rail to replace the o-rings. All of my bank 2 injectors had cracks in the plastic body. The engine ran fine. Since I noticed the fan clutch was leaking and one of the coils was corroded inside I stopped at a pull your parts to get a coil and clutch. I planned to pocket some injectors while I was at it. I pulled the injectors from three 4. 7l engines and they were all cracked. I took the best four to keep as spares, but they turned out to be a different part number than my originals anyway. The plastic at the bottom was red as well instead of the white on mine. Anyway, Im still running the originals with no issue. You got luckier than I on the rail bolts. I snapped the passenger rear one off and its a M10 instead of an M6 now. This all was a result of looking into why my referees lights werent working and checking the switch on the nv3500 trans. Of course I did the hanger bearing and u-joints while I was at it.
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GNX157
Eric, wanted to relate a rich running case I saw on a GDI engine where the high pressure mechanical pump was driven off the camshaft. So bad the engine fuel management was maxed out trying to correct a rich condition and so bad you could smell raw fuel at the oil cap and also oil level overfull. Well long story short, the hi pressure fuel pump backside shaft was leaking raw fuel right into the engine. Somehow these fuel pumps should have a design where that leaking fuel is detected and also routed back internally to the fuel tank instead of into the engine.
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Eric, wanted to relate a rich running case I saw on a GDI engine where the high pressure mechanical pump was driven off the camshaft. So bad the engine fuel management was maxed out trying to correct a rich condition and so bad you could smell raw fuel at the oil cap and also oil level overfull. Well long story short, the hi pressure fuel pump backside shaft was leaking raw fuel right into the engine. Somehow these fuel pumps should have a design where that leaking fuel is detected and also routed back internally to the fuel tank instead of into the engine.
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Randal
I have a 1995 Dakota 3. 9 Magnum engine that is brand new. I installed it last fall it has about 10. 000 miles now. When the engine was put in every sensor and injectors plugs wires belts everything under the hood is new. I was having a serious problem after the engine warmed up sputtering and shaking while under power. No check engine light was on. To make long story short the crank position sensor was bad even though it was new. I changed it on advise of a friend and now my truck runs as it should. I hope this helps Dodge Dakota people.
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I have a 1995 Dakota 3. 9 Magnum engine that is brand new. I installed it last fall it has about 10. 000 miles now. When the engine was put in every sensor and injectors plugs wires belts everything under the hood is new. I was having a serious problem after the engine warmed up sputtering and shaking while under power. No check engine light was on. To make long story short the crank position sensor was bad even though it was new. I changed it on advise of a friend and now my truck runs as it should. I hope this helps Dodge Dakota people.
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Ed
I'd bet at some time during cold weather, water in the fuel ended up in that injector, froze, swelled and cracked it. I've seen throttle body injectors blow out big time that way. More stuff they never see in the south! Also, it's possible that cylinder is a little washed out and not sealing properly. I guess I would have made sure the oil was good too, especially if it sees a lot of short trips in the winter.
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I'd bet at some time during cold weather, water in the fuel ended up in that injector, froze, swelled and cracked it. I've seen throttle body injectors blow out big time that way. More stuff they never see in the south! Also, it's possible that cylinder is a little washed out and not sealing properly. I guess I would have made sure the oil was good too, especially if it sees a lot of short trips in the winter.
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lightningsmokerXx
19: 56 -: ( the rust. Poor guy will prob buy another car which will turn into a rust bucket cuz he won't spray it, or doesn't know to, and money will be flying out his pocket over the years. If only all the people knew to drill and spray something even if it isn't krown. :(
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19: 56 -: ( the rust. Poor guy will prob buy another car which will turn into a rust bucket cuz he won't spray it, or doesn't know to, and money will be flying out his pocket over the years. If only all the people knew to drill and spray something even if it isn't krown. :(
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Danny
can some one get a problem solved for me i have a 03 dakota it will sit and run but then it will start to gasp for air and stall. i have replaced, crk sen. cam sen. three of the sen, on the throttle body air sen. fuel sen and the third one cant think of it but it still same prob.
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can some one get a problem solved for me i have a 03 dakota it will sit and run but then it will start to gasp for air and stall. i have replaced, crk sen. cam sen. three of the sen, on the throttle body air sen. fuel sen and the third one cant think of it but it still same prob.
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kRivs388
Great job on the diag for that dakota. Enjoy watching your videos and picking up tips and tricks. I've done everything on my vehicles for the past 10+ years aside from tires and alignments, so the extra knowledge comes in handy.
Keep the videos coming
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Great job on the diag for that dakota. Enjoy watching your videos and picking up tips and tricks. I've done everything on my vehicles for the past 10+ years aside from tires and alignments, so the extra knowledge comes in handy.
Keep the videos coming
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SingleCabSteve
It's so much easier to just pull the intake plenum and pull the CPs. Move the PVC and the plugs off the TB and move the two coolant lines and you have a ton of room. It takes 10 minutes. Saves you soooo much frustration.
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It's so much easier to just pull the intake plenum and pull the CPs. Move the PVC and the plugs off the TB and move the two coolant lines and you have a ton of room. It takes 10 minutes. Saves you soooo much frustration.
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David
Now that I have the Autel scan tool and PicoScope, extended family and neighbors bring me their sick cars (word travels fast). so far is somewhat Hmmm Interesting learning how to use my stuff on different vehicles.
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Now that I have the Autel scan tool and PicoScope, extended family and neighbors bring me their sick cars (word travels fast). so far is somewhat Hmmm Interesting learning how to use my stuff on different vehicles.
reply
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