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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
Dodge Dakota: Intermittent Skipping, Bucking, Poor Running Part I

Dodge Dakota: Intermittent Skipping, Bucking, Poor Running Part I

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
Come along with Eric O. as we have a look at this Dodge Dakota with the 4. 7L that has an intermittent condition of running poorly and setting a P0300 and a P0303. Freeze Frame Data shows us that the problem occurs during a hot soak and Fuel Trims on bank one drop to -25% short and long term. As with many intermittent problems it was hard to duplicate but we do quickly discover that the bank one is running a tad on the rich side. Could this be causing our problem? Let's see what we find out in the end
Date: 2020-08-05

Comments and reviews: 9


OK Ive watched so many videos on misfires Ive seen a lot of yours and ends up being something so easy my situation is I have a P0300 and p0303 to Start so I thought Im going to put new coils new spark plugs new injectors and I was hoping that he would take care of the whole situation well Ive gone to crank Sensorsand Ive gone to camp sensors and Im having the same situation so the next thing that I thought it can be my lifters but the other day my battery died I got it charged and I turn the truck on I drove it for a half a day half a day and the truck ran great no misfires no funny feeling nothing and then after a while we came back so what do you think thats telling me that its mechanical or still something electrical I really need help
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Hi folks, both alive and dead like me. A bad coil code with 3 and or 7 cly is a misdiagnosis, the cause is likely to be the emmisions system. The can or fuel vapor canister can have split or collapsed vac hoses. Try to block them and it can create a bucking problem when floor and a shitty iratic idle. Shops and scanners used may not have the software to do a vacuum pressure test. So make sure the gastank vapor system supply lines are good and routed to the correct ports.
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title Quote Dodge Dakota: intermittent skipping, bucking, poor running I had the same thing happen to me and it turned out to be the two wire pigtail connecting to the coilpack on my number 1 cylinder. I changed the PCM and had dodge dealer charge me 300 buck to change the #1  pigtail on the both of those injectors. bought a new coil pack, finely figured it out to be the #1 coilpack two wire pig tail.
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gremlin on. old ob1 dodge is the engine harness due to it location in engine bay subject to heat amd vibration. babied mine up to 528, 000 miles finally found another decent harness. narrowed it down finally after moving old one a bit and starting right up. noticed on. my other dodge newer basicslly engineeres did same thing. also dumb idea putting charcoal canister under truck hoses mush up 204 code
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I used to love to wrench on engines when all you needed was a dwell meter and a timing light. The last vehicle I could use the timing light on was my 86 Mustang GT. But, since you can do it, I no longer have to! ha, ha. :) I'll gladly pay for this kind of stuff now.
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I like your name, my name is Eric to. No codes, no check engine light.
Just changed IAC/TPS still runs at about 500 to 600 rpms i want to be around 900 to 1000 rpm at idle
It's a 2001 dodge dakota 4. 7 any other possibilities. please any help.

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Eric O, would you not only want to double check the same cylinders, but also check the cylinders in the other bank to have a reference to go by, and compare them all? Just wondering what a known good should be.
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Hey Eric, I'm not familiar with the scan tool you are using, but, I know most tools will toggle the fuel pump relay, as well as the ASD relay, which would save you the whole key toggling thing. Just a thought.
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I have the matco unit. Comes with 4mm banana style connections to the box. Combine that with the AES wave terminal kit and theres nothing you can adapt to. Never had a problem with wires coming off.
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