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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
Ford Escape: Rear Wiper Motor Repair

Ford Escape: Rear Wiper Motor Repair

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
we replace a rear wiper motor on the back of a Ford Escape. The vehicle also has a bad rear latch release and the tail gate does not open Douglas: The presentation was entertaining and very helpful, thanks!
Additional suggestions:
-to split the plastic motor clamshell inside the door, a penny is a good tool. Insert and twist.
-before popping the plastic cover off the outside I poured hot water on it to soften, then carefully pried the sides apart with two hands before pulling outward. No damage.
-The wiper arm can be popped off by squeezing with visegrips if you dont have a puller. Put a screwdriver blade under the back of the arm, replace the small retaining nut on the threaded shaft end, and squeeze between these two. Alternately squeeze top and bottom of blade arm, many times The blade arm is jammed onto a tapered spline shaft, once cracked loose it slides right off. Do not waste time prying with a screwdriver between the arm and the delicate cosmetic cone beneath it.
-the 22mm hex nut can be removed with a 7/8 box wrench (otherwise a deep 22mm socket)
-the hex nut, once broken loose, may strip the plastic fine threads on the shaft, so it wont unscrew, just spins in place. To get it off, I pushed a wooden hammer handle hard against the shaft end, into the glass, while turning the 7/8 box wrench, and it finally unscrewed
-You need to get a NEW 22mm hex nut, Ford part #8L8Z-17481A, about 6. 00, because the cruddy threads of the old nut will probably cross-thread the fine plastic threads on the new motor, ruining it. (Unless your hex nut came off clean as a whistle, not likely)

Date: 2020-08-05

Comments and reviews: 9


The same thing happened to me when loosening the large nut; the motor cracked so the nut just spun and didn't come off. Difference was that I couldn't pull the nut and broken part off the end of the shaft because the stub on the end of the shaft was as big as the threaded part the large nut was seized onto. After looking at the new motor's shaft end and seeing how it was smaller, I realized that when I pulled the wiper arm off, the metal insert in the plastic arm didn't come off with the arm. When the arm is manufactured the metal insert may be ultrasonically pressed on or molded in place. The wiper arm was seized so well that its metal insert stayed with the motor shaft instead of remaining as part of the wiper arm. I ended up using some torch heat (after shielding the glass and other bits) then quenching it to free the insert from the shaft. Then I was able to pull the nut assembly off the end of the motor shaft and complete the motor replacement. Of course I need a new wiper arm now.
Funny thing, when the rear wiper motor is unplugged the front washer pump doesn't work. I had unplugged the rear wiper motor after it killed the battery while the vehicle was parked. I could hear the motor trying to move, then it seemed like a circuit breaker would trip. Then it would reset and the process repeats. Until the battery was dead. Clever design Ford.
Thanks for posting your video, it was very helpful to see how it should go before tackling the repair.

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My rear wiper motor seized as well and was drawing over 10 amps and quickly killed battery overnight. Rear wiper motor now disconnected and I cant start a repair or replacement right now. I read elsewhere that this results in windshield washer pump to cease operation and I confirmed that today but fortunately the front wipers still operate. I cant have that as winter is here in Ontario. Located a new one now just need a puller to get wiper arm off the motor spindle. WD-40 every day in the interim.
This is an excellent video in every respect by a true professional willing to share his considerable skills.
I had to do LH rear window hinge as well due to corrosion and the rear latch mechanism. The Ford engineers should be ashamed of their rear hatch mechanical designs.

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Absolutely excellent video, professional in every respect. Just managed to pull wiper arm but having difficulty getting the outer nut off after 10 years of rust. The large outer nut Part 8L8Z 17481 A doesnt come with replacement wiper motor and mine was rusted so badly it came off in pieces. Ford dealer had one in stock for 6. 75 Cdn. He said that was second nut he sold today. I bought replacement wiper motor from R-Auto. com. Price and delivery to Canada was simply amazing, had it in 48 hours via FedEx, really unbelievable and half price of local parts store
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Greetings from Rochester here! I'm down in Avoca every Aug up in the hills at friends camp hunting grounds for party fun!
Anyways, anyone looking for that cover part this is what I found - 8L8Z-17C526-B
I have this same year Escape and the motor arm is no longer moving. I found out is seizes up on the inside and debating to put a new one in or take it a part and re-grease it up.
I am really pissed about the rear fenders on these models freaking rusting out! Along with the hatch and the window hatch brackets.

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There is a hook on the inside of the glass (to the left of the plastic container the wiper motor sits in) which connects to the wiper motor where the first 10mm nut is. Is that hook and metal plate part of the glass replacement? This broke off on my 2008 escape where it connects to the wiper motor so the window doesn't latch closed and can't find the thing anywhere. The glass assembly is over 300 so trying to make sure it has the piece I need. Thanks!
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I'm having this problem with my Ford Escape, except my windshield wiper is stuck half way. Even when my car is shut off, i can hear a tick coming from yhe windshield wiper like it's trying to move but it's stuck. My question is, can this drain your battery? I called Ford and they told me no because when my car is shut off everything shuts off. Can you confirm this? My car's battery was dead this morning. I'm wondering if it's because of this.
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Question! My motor isn't broken, but has a terrible whine, loud enough you can hear it even when the car is driving on highway. Do you know any way of tearing it down and lubricating at appropriate places, or am I better off just replacing it/dealing with it? The video was easy enough to follow on removal, but without any idea of how to tear it down or what I should and should not mess with, I thought it best to leave it alone.
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Thank you for sharing this video. My Escape back wiper arm seized up a week ago and for some reason was drawing power off the battery - broken switch maybe? All I needed was to find out how to disconnect the power source before getting to my mechanic for replacement. Because of your instructions I was able to take care of it in less than two minutes!
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Great video, lots of detailed information. The only small detail is it's actually a 2010 FORD ESCAPE LIMITED and not a 2011. Ford actually redesigned the rear windshield grab handle in 2011-2012. You nailed it with the additional replacement of the 2 rear window holders, they corrode from the inside out. Happy Easter to you all!
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