Toyota Prius - Rear Brake Pads, Rotors & Calipers
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
flagmichael
I am always astounded by how much corrosion you get there in upstate New York. Arizona just doesn't have that problem. Even here in Flagstaff, where we get a lot of snow, the city does not use salt on the roads. A decade ago they used a non-sodium deicer that did much the same damage and killed tens of thousands of pine trees along the roadsides, and that gave me corrosion under the shoes of my 2002 Prius rear drums. I recently gave that car to my son, at 205K miles he gave it its first brake service. The front pads were about 2/3 worn and the rear shoes were not measurably worn, so he replaced the front pads and left the rear shoes alone except for regreasing.
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I am always astounded by how much corrosion you get there in upstate New York. Arizona just doesn't have that problem. Even here in Flagstaff, where we get a lot of snow, the city does not use salt on the roads. A decade ago they used a non-sodium deicer that did much the same damage and killed tens of thousands of pine trees along the roadsides, and that gave me corrosion under the shoes of my 2002 Prius rear drums. I recently gave that car to my son, at 205K miles he gave it its first brake service. The front pads were about 2/3 worn and the rear shoes were not measurably worn, so he replaced the front pads and left the rear shoes alone except for regreasing.
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Andrei
My rear cylinders seem to drag on the rotor too much (loss of mpg, hot discs in winter - more warm than in front. The drag happens with the bleeder open so it's not the line. I made sure to align the cylinder with the pad's notch. Everything is new (Raybestos E3 from Rockauto) and I put Syl-glide grease on the pins with copper anti-size on the pads lobes. So what the heck is going on? The only thing I did not open is the cylinder and I left it with its factory grease. Been dragging ever since I installed it. New caliper, new pads, new rotor.
Been a few weeks, if you can give me some idea.
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My rear cylinders seem to drag on the rotor too much (loss of mpg, hot discs in winter - more warm than in front. The drag happens with the bleeder open so it's not the line. I made sure to align the cylinder with the pad's notch. Everything is new (Raybestos E3 from Rockauto) and I put Syl-glide grease on the pins with copper anti-size on the pads lobes. So what the heck is going on? The only thing I did not open is the cylinder and I left it with its factory grease. Been dragging ever since I installed it. New caliper, new pads, new rotor.
Been a few weeks, if you can give me some idea.
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Tom
So, I have seen several videos where the wheel has come off while the car is moving, and always a day or two after some other shop replaced the tire. Those shop state that you must return to let them RE-tighten the lug nuts. This is because those shops do not clean the rust off the disks, which means the wheel is not solidly bolted down to the disk. As the car moves the wheel-rotor mating surface scours off the rust, and this loosens the wheel. In every video Eric cleans off this rust at every surface. When Eric is done, that wheel in on to stay. This is the joy of watching Eric work.
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So, I have seen several videos where the wheel has come off while the car is moving, and always a day or two after some other shop replaced the tire. Those shop state that you must return to let them RE-tighten the lug nuts. This is because those shops do not clean the rust off the disks, which means the wheel is not solidly bolted down to the disk. As the car moves the wheel-rotor mating surface scours off the rust, and this loosens the wheel. In every video Eric cleans off this rust at every surface. When Eric is done, that wheel in on to stay. This is the joy of watching Eric work.
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Tom
At 9: 45 Eric asks, Kind of monotonous, isn't it? No absolutely not. I love seeing you work. You are clearly doing the best job possible, and that is an endless joy to watch. In addition, I love seeing all the ways engineers can design the same components to do the same job. In this case the shock goes into a bracket welded to the outside of the lower spring cup. It is so much fun to see this.
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At 9: 45 Eric asks, Kind of monotonous, isn't it? No absolutely not. I love seeing you work. You are clearly doing the best job possible, and that is an endless joy to watch. In addition, I love seeing all the ways engineers can design the same components to do the same job. In this case the shock goes into a bracket welded to the outside of the lower spring cup. It is so much fun to see this.
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Patrick94GSR
videos like this make me so glad I don't live in a place that gets snow all winter long. I don't have to deal with any of that rusty crap on my cars. Just a little surface rust here and there. I've owned my Integra 18 years and can only recall maybe 2 bolts that I've ever broken on the car - an exhaust manifold stud, and one of the OEM shock tower brace studs.
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videos like this make me so glad I don't live in a place that gets snow all winter long. I don't have to deal with any of that rusty crap on my cars. Just a little surface rust here and there. I've owned my Integra 18 years and can only recall maybe 2 bolts that I've ever broken on the car - an exhaust manifold stud, and one of the OEM shock tower brace studs.
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Patrick94GSR
raises hand parking brake user here also, for both manual and automatic cars. Knowing how the park function works on auto gearboxes with the little pin hold the weight of the car, using the parking brake seems like the obvious thing to do. My wife never uses it, but I do.
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raises hand parking brake user here also, for both manual and automatic cars. Knowing how the park function works on auto gearboxes with the little pin hold the weight of the car, using the parking brake seems like the obvious thing to do. My wife never uses it, but I do.
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Patrick94GSR
Just did rear brakes on my Miata a couple weeks ago, and for the life of me I couldn't get those pad springs to stay in place, at least not until I had the caliper back in place over the pads. Once the caliper was in place, the springs went in easily.
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Just did rear brakes on my Miata a couple weeks ago, and for the life of me I couldn't get those pad springs to stay in place, at least not until I had the caliper back in place over the pads. Once the caliper was in place, the springs went in easily.
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Michael
My ABS System lights are on (and it isn't functioning) after I changed the rear passenger caliper, rotor and pads as you did. First time doing it on a Prius, but I've successfully done it on other cars many times. any suggestion as to what it might be?
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My ABS System lights are on (and it isn't functioning) after I changed the rear passenger caliper, rotor and pads as you did. First time doing it on a Prius, but I've successfully done it on other cars many times. any suggestion as to what it might be?
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Chris
If you put the box end of a 14mm wrench over the emergency brake retaining clip and sligtly twist to depress the prongs, the cable will pull right out of the mount. You don't have to use the cutting wheel and destroy the bracket.
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If you put the box end of a 14mm wrench over the emergency brake retaining clip and sligtly twist to depress the prongs, the cable will pull right out of the mount. You don't have to use the cutting wheel and destroy the bracket.
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mrkevelev
So for the rear brakes, do you just press the brake pedal to turn the pump on or do you first turn on the car? If so, does it just need to be powered or should it be in a certain mode?
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So for the rear brakes, do you just press the brake pedal to turn the pump on or do you first turn on the car? If so, does it just need to be powered or should it be in a certain mode?
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