Voltage Drop, Do We Really Need To Know It?
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Bill
Whoever put those batteries in without cleaning ALL the connections is a Total Hack! In fact, if the customer didn't need TWO batteries and a starter because of that, it's even worse. As a kid I worked at a rebuilder between 1970 - 1980. When I started, I knew very little. Some of the repair shops knew LESS. One shop put THREE alternators on an Eldorado. They're ALL no good! They laughed when I walked in. Right away, I saw an issue. On the positive cable, there was a wire that went directly to the B+ terminal on the alternator. On the battery side it had corrosion that bled INSIDE the wire. I jumped it with a piece of heavy guage wire. It charged immediately. Parts stores would test starters with THIN jumper cables from a battery. Most were tight - with new bushings. Many would fail. I came in with a HEAVY BATTERY CABLE, grounded the case on the negative post and hit the positive side. Very few were bad. If you are testing with jumper cables, you need HEAVY DUTY, commercial grade. Not the 20. 00 ones. Learn how to use the meter. You can see the results.
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Whoever put those batteries in without cleaning ALL the connections is a Total Hack! In fact, if the customer didn't need TWO batteries and a starter because of that, it's even worse. As a kid I worked at a rebuilder between 1970 - 1980. When I started, I knew very little. Some of the repair shops knew LESS. One shop put THREE alternators on an Eldorado. They're ALL no good! They laughed when I walked in. Right away, I saw an issue. On the positive cable, there was a wire that went directly to the B+ terminal on the alternator. On the battery side it had corrosion that bled INSIDE the wire. I jumped it with a piece of heavy guage wire. It charged immediately. Parts stores would test starters with THIN jumper cables from a battery. Most were tight - with new bushings. Many would fail. I came in with a HEAVY BATTERY CABLE, grounded the case on the negative post and hit the positive side. Very few were bad. If you are testing with jumper cables, you need HEAVY DUTY, commercial grade. Not the 20. 00 ones. Learn how to use the meter. You can see the results.
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Kevin
Kind of amazing how that battery terminal got overlooked. I know that seeing that one terminal corroded, I would have cleaned all of them. I also noticed the air cleaner could have used some cleaning as well. I've been watching a guy who works on Mercedes diesels and just changing a filthy air cleaner and also one that didn't fit, was shorter that allowed a bit into the intake and just doing that went from a 14 second to 50 mph to about 12 second to 50 mph run. then he changed the fuel filters, but didn't show the difference to 50 mph run which kinda bummed me out. He's listed as mercedessource if you aren't aware of him. Thanks for sharing,
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Kind of amazing how that battery terminal got overlooked. I know that seeing that one terminal corroded, I would have cleaned all of them. I also noticed the air cleaner could have used some cleaning as well. I've been watching a guy who works on Mercedes diesels and just changing a filthy air cleaner and also one that didn't fit, was shorter that allowed a bit into the intake and just doing that went from a 14 second to 50 mph to about 12 second to 50 mph run. then he changed the fuel filters, but didn't show the difference to 50 mph run which kinda bummed me out. He's listed as mercedessource if you aren't aware of him. Thanks for sharing,
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Michael
Hi
I love your videos: informational and entertaining.
However: yours is the second video that states a load must be placed on the circuit before a voltage-drop test may be performed.
SITUATION:
I have a Freightliner Century Classic 120, Class 8 Tractor, where with NO load, I meadured 1. 0-1. 75 less volts on a ground side of a circiuit.
Whether this circuit legit OEM is a factor. A website says that 12 gauge AWA copper wire over 12 feet, like this foreign wire in this non OEM circuit, will drop to 11. 82 from 12. 5 volts. There is no load: just static battery voltage drop
What gives?
reply
Hi
I love your videos: informational and entertaining.
However: yours is the second video that states a load must be placed on the circuit before a voltage-drop test may be performed.
SITUATION:
I have a Freightliner Century Classic 120, Class 8 Tractor, where with NO load, I meadured 1. 0-1. 75 less volts on a ground side of a circiuit.
Whether this circuit legit OEM is a factor. A website says that 12 gauge AWA copper wire over 12 feet, like this foreign wire in this non OEM circuit, will drop to 11. 82 from 12. 5 volts. There is no load: just static battery voltage drop
What gives?
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scott
Do you like brass mariene battery terminals? I have had great luck with them and using larger wires in grounding wires and larger battery wires as it helps voltage drop. The load pro idea of adding a resister like the load pro or a variable resistor button with a live voltage test would be ideal.
Have you tried the new maestro load pro Tec device it has a Bluetooth App and a built in test procedures built in on both the app and the Mastro device so you do not make testing errors.
I like your testing methods a lot. Thank you for great videos
T / Y Professor O!
reply
Do you like brass mariene battery terminals? I have had great luck with them and using larger wires in grounding wires and larger battery wires as it helps voltage drop. The load pro idea of adding a resister like the load pro or a variable resistor button with a live voltage test would be ideal.
Have you tried the new maestro load pro Tec device it has a Bluetooth App and a built in test procedures built in on both the app and the Mastro device so you do not make testing errors.
I like your testing methods a lot. Thank you for great videos
T / Y Professor O!
reply
WinZard
got an 88 mustang. new tank new pump new sender. sender unit is working. crank, no start, no prime. car sitting for 6 years. this is only test I have not done. hoping new pump isn't bad. since I don't want to drop that tank again. all relays clicking and I am getting key on 1 second pulse and continuous power during crank at the tank. car cranks with fluid and I have 5v at the tps. replaced TPS since I had a code during a key on engine off test. now it passes the test no codes. any other things I could check? will report back after I go do the voltage drop tests.
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got an 88 mustang. new tank new pump new sender. sender unit is working. crank, no start, no prime. car sitting for 6 years. this is only test I have not done. hoping new pump isn't bad. since I don't want to drop that tank again. all relays clicking and I am getting key on 1 second pulse and continuous power during crank at the tank. car cranks with fluid and I have 5v at the tps. replaced TPS since I had a code during a key on engine off test. now it passes the test no codes. any other things I could check? will report back after I go do the voltage drop tests.
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Steve
Good video but sorry a thumbs down for all the taking, build up, 26 mins, I look on youtube to get educated and away from my wife as she's yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, and then find yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, get to the point man, get your meter out stick it on the battery and on chassis ground and starter so we can see whats going on, all this could have been done in 10 min tops, sorry man
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Good video but sorry a thumbs down for all the taking, build up, 26 mins, I look on youtube to get educated and away from my wife as she's yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, and then find yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, yack, get to the point man, get your meter out stick it on the battery and on chassis ground and starter so we can see whats going on, all this could have been done in 10 min tops, sorry man
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Bige4u
So basically, the customer could have saved themselves some major cash(2 batteries/1 starter, if only he/she would have just cleaned all the battery posts and connections to like new condition right from the git go. but if it wasnt for people like them who dont know how to work on cars or just being lazy doing the simplest of maintenance, mechanics who work for a living, would be out of buisness.
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So basically, the customer could have saved themselves some major cash(2 batteries/1 starter, if only he/she would have just cleaned all the battery posts and connections to like new condition right from the git go. but if it wasnt for people like them who dont know how to work on cars or just being lazy doing the simplest of maintenance, mechanics who work for a living, would be out of buisness.
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James
Small world. Just this morning, my wife came in and said my car is dead, totally dead. I went out, grabbed a meter, and found about about 0. 3v between batt post and batt cable with no load other than normal parasitic. Cleaned the terminal and it started right up. Mind you, I keep the battery terminals VERY clean, but, I seldom pull the cables as these ford cable ends easily break. Lesson learned.
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Small world. Just this morning, my wife came in and said my car is dead, totally dead. I went out, grabbed a meter, and found about about 0. 3v between batt post and batt cable with no load other than normal parasitic. Cleaned the terminal and it started right up. Mind you, I keep the battery terminals VERY clean, but, I seldom pull the cables as these ford cable ends easily break. Lesson learned.
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Richard
Personally didnt learn anything from your video, but you explained perfectly and I enjoyed watching it for kicks, grins and giggles, also a nice bit of kit your using, I only have multimeters, but can achieve the same result. My only suggestion would be to remove the battery negative terminal clamps on both batteries before taking a spanner (wrench) to the positive terminal clamp.
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Personally didnt learn anything from your video, but you explained perfectly and I enjoyed watching it for kicks, grins and giggles, also a nice bit of kit your using, I only have multimeters, but can achieve the same result. My only suggestion would be to remove the battery negative terminal clamps on both batteries before taking a spanner (wrench) to the positive terminal clamp.
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Two
As someone who is still learning to work with voltage drops and electrical gremlins videos like this really help specially when you get ahold of vehicles that act crazy got an 89 mustang that tries to start and will start on its on as soon as the key hits on it just randomly quit happening still an unsolved mystery lol
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As someone who is still learning to work with voltage drops and electrical gremlins videos like this really help specially when you get ahold of vehicles that act crazy got an 89 mustang that tries to start and will start on its on as soon as the key hits on it just randomly quit happening still an unsolved mystery lol
reply
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