Apparently You Can Hack an Air Conditioner! (30% Power)
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Date: 2026-09-04
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Comments and reviews: 20
Tyr. Njordr
I did a small project you might be interested in.
I needed a tiny app in my phone that told me if my front door was locked or not.
It was simple: Most smart home suites now include so much spyware & datamining that it's almost comedic. So buying a ready-made smart front door lock wasn't an option.
There is a somewhat disturbing backstory to that, with one of my neighbours entering my apartment while I was sleeping when I forgot to lock the door.
I live in a small town where no one locks their doors, but this neighbour is. a bit special. She considers herself to be the neighbourhood watch. Now that wouldn't be so bad, if all she did was watch. But no, she's also a self-appointed detective. She goes around and makes sure no one is doing funny-business.
Ever since I woke up with her in my bedroom going through my drawers, I've had a compulsion to quadruple-check my door lock after leaving in the morning. It's becoming an actual hindrance to me in my everyday life, because I can't leave home without going back to check the lock.
Both my front door & frame are security rated, which limited my options for installing hardware. Since I rent, I wasn't allowed to switch locks completely, the cylinder still needed to fit the landlord's main key. So my solution was fairly simple. An attiny, and a lever arm inside the door frame interfering with the travel of the lock piston (translation. For both power & telemetry, I picked POE, and drew a cable through one of the previously covered screwholes on the inside of the door frame, connected to a very basic raspberry.
But that's basically where I got stuck. The raspberry can store the door locked input as an integer in a very basic script, but I am not good enough at programming to allow the raspberry to communicate with my phone using my internet.
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I did a small project you might be interested in.
I needed a tiny app in my phone that told me if my front door was locked or not.
It was simple: Most smart home suites now include so much spyware & datamining that it's almost comedic. So buying a ready-made smart front door lock wasn't an option.
There is a somewhat disturbing backstory to that, with one of my neighbours entering my apartment while I was sleeping when I forgot to lock the door.
I live in a small town where no one locks their doors, but this neighbour is. a bit special. She considers herself to be the neighbourhood watch. Now that wouldn't be so bad, if all she did was watch. But no, she's also a self-appointed detective. She goes around and makes sure no one is doing funny-business.
Ever since I woke up with her in my bedroom going through my drawers, I've had a compulsion to quadruple-check my door lock after leaving in the morning. It's becoming an actual hindrance to me in my everyday life, because I can't leave home without going back to check the lock.
Both my front door & frame are security rated, which limited my options for installing hardware. Since I rent, I wasn't allowed to switch locks completely, the cylinder still needed to fit the landlord's main key. So my solution was fairly simple. An attiny, and a lever arm inside the door frame interfering with the travel of the lock piston (translation. For both power & telemetry, I picked POE, and drew a cable through one of the previously covered screwholes on the inside of the door frame, connected to a very basic raspberry.
But that's basically where I got stuck. The raspberry can store the door locked input as an integer in a very basic script, but I am not good enough at programming to allow the raspberry to communicate with my phone using my internet.
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TonnyCassidy
the reason it does that is keeping cooling capacity which increases as condensing temperature drops, by fooling the system into thinking its operating at higher ambient temperature, you are increasing the cooling capacity by a large amount to the point its more power than the evap can absorb at that amount of airflow, which is why the evaporator ice up, if you want more cooling performance, you need to make the blower runs faster to bring more airflow to keep the evap coil above freezing
if the indoor uses an ECM/BLDC motor it should be quite easy, the speed control is 0-6v (one that i have go up to 1900rpm at 6v) another thing you need to do is use a microcontroller to make the FG to make the control board thinks everything is at its proper speed (usually 1150-1250RPM on high (42hz roughly) if its PSC motor it would be a bit more difficult but not impossible, also keep in mind the ECM/BLDC motor drive circuit is non isolated rectified mains, proceed with caution
its possible to use a microcontroller to modify the speed control voltage and the feedback FG, voltage divider to turn 0-6v from the board to 0-3v3, npn transistor to system gnd with pull up resistor to 15v (rectified mains negative) to send manipulated FG to the board, make a 6v supply and PWM it to the motor, FG from the motor is usually 15v so add a proper resistor to drop it to 3v3
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the reason it does that is keeping cooling capacity which increases as condensing temperature drops, by fooling the system into thinking its operating at higher ambient temperature, you are increasing the cooling capacity by a large amount to the point its more power than the evap can absorb at that amount of airflow, which is why the evaporator ice up, if you want more cooling performance, you need to make the blower runs faster to bring more airflow to keep the evap coil above freezing
if the indoor uses an ECM/BLDC motor it should be quite easy, the speed control is 0-6v (one that i have go up to 1900rpm at 6v) another thing you need to do is use a microcontroller to make the FG to make the control board thinks everything is at its proper speed (usually 1150-1250RPM on high (42hz roughly) if its PSC motor it would be a bit more difficult but not impossible, also keep in mind the ECM/BLDC motor drive circuit is non isolated rectified mains, proceed with caution
its possible to use a microcontroller to modify the speed control voltage and the feedback FG, voltage divider to turn 0-6v from the board to 0-3v3, npn transistor to system gnd with pull up resistor to 15v (rectified mains negative) to send manipulated FG to the board, make a 6v supply and PWM it to the motor, FG from the motor is usually 15v so add a proper resistor to drop it to 3v3
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themonsters5467
HVAC guy here. Remember what you said in the beginning The compressor ONLY moves refrigerant in a vapor state. If you were to put too much liquid refrigerant in the suction side, you'll slug the compressor. Just like an engine it compression is required to work. But. when the refrigerant is in its liquid state, you cannot compress it.
In the process of cooling means that refrigerant is changing state from liquid to vapor. When that coil reached low enough to freeze, liquid refrigerant would stop changing states and may reach the compressor. which is why the sensor is there in the first place. Id suggest you maybe:
-find a low ambient kit for the unit with a wind baffle so that your existing unit can cool at lower temps.
-find another unit that can handle the lower temp (id go with Mitsubishi here in the US with baffle kit.
-Or Economize (let fresh air into the building when temp and humidity is ideal.
If you want to continue to hack this unit. take a closer look at the outdoor fan. Most low ambient kits reduce the amount of air going across the outdoor coil. Some have variable speed others just turn the fan off completely until pressures become ideal to run.
thanks for the video!
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HVAC guy here. Remember what you said in the beginning The compressor ONLY moves refrigerant in a vapor state. If you were to put too much liquid refrigerant in the suction side, you'll slug the compressor. Just like an engine it compression is required to work. But. when the refrigerant is in its liquid state, you cannot compress it.
In the process of cooling means that refrigerant is changing state from liquid to vapor. When that coil reached low enough to freeze, liquid refrigerant would stop changing states and may reach the compressor. which is why the sensor is there in the first place. Id suggest you maybe:
-find a low ambient kit for the unit with a wind baffle so that your existing unit can cool at lower temps.
-find another unit that can handle the lower temp (id go with Mitsubishi here in the US with baffle kit.
-Or Economize (let fresh air into the building when temp and humidity is ideal.
If you want to continue to hack this unit. take a closer look at the outdoor fan. Most low ambient kits reduce the amount of air going across the outdoor coil. Some have variable speed others just turn the fan off completely until pressures become ideal to run.
thanks for the video!
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adrian_z
The condenser effectiveness is determined by its ability to cool the hot gas refrigerant into a liquid phase. At higher outdoor temperatures a higher gas pressure is required to achieve this as the boiling point must be above outdoor temperature for this to work. The controller can only influence pressure by the compressor speed or closing the electronic expansion valve (if fitted. The thermistor allows the control unit to optimize the compressor speed range to achieve complete condensing without over-condensing (sub-cooling. By heating the thermistor, you are effectively forcing the unit to over-condense, the extra cooling you get with this hack would be marginal in comparison to the increased energy consumption - probably in the order of 1: 1. It's better just to set the controller to minimum temperature setting and fan speed to high if you want to maximize the cooling. Most of these inverter split A/Cs will start ramping down when they are within 2C of the set-point. Also make sure all air filters are clean and flow is unobstructed for both indoor and outdoor.
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The condenser effectiveness is determined by its ability to cool the hot gas refrigerant into a liquid phase. At higher outdoor temperatures a higher gas pressure is required to achieve this as the boiling point must be above outdoor temperature for this to work. The controller can only influence pressure by the compressor speed or closing the electronic expansion valve (if fitted. The thermistor allows the control unit to optimize the compressor speed range to achieve complete condensing without over-condensing (sub-cooling. By heating the thermistor, you are effectively forcing the unit to over-condense, the extra cooling you get with this hack would be marginal in comparison to the increased energy consumption - probably in the order of 1: 1. It's better just to set the controller to minimum temperature setting and fan speed to high if you want to maximize the cooling. Most of these inverter split A/Cs will start ramping down when they are within 2C of the set-point. Also make sure all air filters are clean and flow is unobstructed for both indoor and outdoor.
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singhaakash1994
power draw decreased because of many reasons, the ODU ambient air temp sensor was hacked, making the aircon to increase comp freq, but the condenser was cooling the hot refrigerant quickly and the IDU evap coil wasnt boiling off the liquid refrigerant efficiently enough, which could flood the accumulator, and there is a suction line pressure sensor to monitor the return temp which can also command the freq to decrease if it reads unusual temps, other reason is the indoor unit has evap coil sensor which read the freezing temp and pumped down the comp freq ( your IDU blower may not be fast enough to recirculate the air properly. the last reason i can think of is regulations, as ac manufacturers need to comply with the energy savings regulations and to achieve that, they program their microcontrollers temperature range so that it works in the bare minimum in normal conditions unless there is severe heat load for which the comp draws max power to keep and maintain the set indoor temp.
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power draw decreased because of many reasons, the ODU ambient air temp sensor was hacked, making the aircon to increase comp freq, but the condenser was cooling the hot refrigerant quickly and the IDU evap coil wasnt boiling off the liquid refrigerant efficiently enough, which could flood the accumulator, and there is a suction line pressure sensor to monitor the return temp which can also command the freq to decrease if it reads unusual temps, other reason is the indoor unit has evap coil sensor which read the freezing temp and pumped down the comp freq ( your IDU blower may not be fast enough to recirculate the air properly. the last reason i can think of is regulations, as ac manufacturers need to comply with the energy savings regulations and to achieve that, they program their microcontrollers temperature range so that it works in the bare minimum in normal conditions unless there is severe heat load for which the comp draws max power to keep and maintain the set indoor temp.
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richardmassoth8237
When I was a Biophysics graduate student in the late 1970s and into the 1980s, those of us from labs who used cryogenic fluids (liquid nitrogen, liquid oxygen, and liquid helium) took turns to babysit the cryogenic refrigerators. You do not want your coils to freeze, or you just make a mess for you to clean up as the rest of the grad students and faculty grumble and curse you for being lazy as the liquid cryogen production stopped while you defrosted the system and re-qualified the system to make the correct fluid. Frankly you want to dehumidify (dry) the intake air (and what's around the condenser coils) first and then cool it to keep the system efficiency, so commercial HVAC systems have tricks to keep the coils from freezing and get the correct SEER range. You have an interesting approach here, but you're still fighting practical thermodynamics.
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When I was a Biophysics graduate student in the late 1970s and into the 1980s, those of us from labs who used cryogenic fluids (liquid nitrogen, liquid oxygen, and liquid helium) took turns to babysit the cryogenic refrigerators. You do not want your coils to freeze, or you just make a mess for you to clean up as the rest of the grad students and faculty grumble and curse you for being lazy as the liquid cryogen production stopped while you defrosted the system and re-qualified the system to make the correct fluid. Frankly you want to dehumidify (dry) the intake air (and what's around the condenser coils) first and then cool it to keep the system efficiency, so commercial HVAC systems have tricks to keep the coils from freezing and get the correct SEER range. You have an interesting approach here, but you're still fighting practical thermodynamics.
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djkeags9288
Most ACs don't have an analogue high-pressure sensor, its usally a switch. However, that temperature sensor is used to protect against overheating and high pressure; this will protect it from overload or burnout.
The second reason is Efficiency Optimization. Inverter compressors can change speed instead of turning completely on/off. By monitoring how efficiently the outdoor coil is shedding heat, the system adjusts the compressor to match the exact cooling load required for the current weather conditions. IE: very hot(demand is high because the heat exchange is lower on the condenser due to the increase environment heat) increases compressor speed. cold(demand lower becuse the the heat exchange on the condenser is more efficient at transferring heat because the environment is cooler); you are saving power where it is needed; compressor speed is lowered.
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Most ACs don't have an analogue high-pressure sensor, its usally a switch. However, that temperature sensor is used to protect against overheating and high pressure; this will protect it from overload or burnout.
The second reason is Efficiency Optimization. Inverter compressors can change speed instead of turning completely on/off. By monitoring how efficiently the outdoor coil is shedding heat, the system adjusts the compressor to match the exact cooling load required for the current weather conditions. IE: very hot(demand is high because the heat exchange is lower on the condenser due to the increase environment heat) increases compressor speed. cold(demand lower becuse the the heat exchange on the condenser is more efficient at transferring heat because the environment is cooler); you are saving power where it is needed; compressor speed is lowered.
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dumbdeerthing
So yeah, not saying this is dumb but with variable speed compressors they do this to prevent short cycling. Which is bad for the unit, your indoor humidity, and just how well your rooms are ventilated. The best AC runs for as long as possible, constantly giving your house cool but not COLD dehumidified air. If you have this issue where it doesn't maintain the right temperature it needs to be calibrated or there is something wrong with the outdoor thermocouple. A better hack would be to add a series resistor that makes it think it's around 5C hotter than it actually is (if you can't calibrate it with software) so that way in the weird in betweens where it's hot enough outside but your AC isn't doing enough at 100% duty cycle to maintain your set temp it should bump up to the next power level.
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So yeah, not saying this is dumb but with variable speed compressors they do this to prevent short cycling. Which is bad for the unit, your indoor humidity, and just how well your rooms are ventilated. The best AC runs for as long as possible, constantly giving your house cool but not COLD dehumidified air. If you have this issue where it doesn't maintain the right temperature it needs to be calibrated or there is something wrong with the outdoor thermocouple. A better hack would be to add a series resistor that makes it think it's around 5C hotter than it actually is (if you can't calibrate it with software) so that way in the weird in betweens where it's hot enough outside but your AC isn't doing enough at 100% duty cycle to maintain your set temp it should bump up to the next power level.
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richardc1983
I work in AC, I also do a similar thing with my system at home when I use the unit in heating I find the air blowing out too hot and uncomfortable so I've fooled the unit to thinking it's warmer outside than it actually is which means it does not produce as much heat.
I did this buy splicing into the cable of the outdoor sensor and fitting a sensor that has a different resistance that essentially makes the unit think it's 10c warmer outside than it is. The beauty with this is that it's always changing and so if temp does drop then unit does increase it's output but not as aggressively. It also means the unit does not short cycle and heats for longer.
When the unit is in cooling I change back to the usual sensor as I prefer the unit run low and slow and not cycle off.
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I work in AC, I also do a similar thing with my system at home when I use the unit in heating I find the air blowing out too hot and uncomfortable so I've fooled the unit to thinking it's warmer outside than it actually is which means it does not produce as much heat.
I did this buy splicing into the cable of the outdoor sensor and fitting a sensor that has a different resistance that essentially makes the unit think it's 10c warmer outside than it is. The beauty with this is that it's always changing and so if temp does drop then unit does increase it's output but not as aggressively. It also means the unit does not short cycle and heats for longer.
When the unit is in cooling I change back to the usual sensor as I prefer the unit run low and slow and not cycle off.
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Radagast-vz3sx
This is a bit of a mistake in communication I see often. If a building is good at trapping heat in the way you describe, it actually has high thermal mass. You can use high thermal mass in combination with intentional insulation; but high thermal mass by itself isn't really insulation. A 6 inch thick concrete wall has an R value of 5-6. Whereas a framed wall even in temperate areas will be between 10-20R depending on construction quality. High thermal mass can absolutely smooth out daily temperature swings, but it can't (by itself) reject or retain heat the way that insulation does.
Theres actually some rather cool ideas around using phase change materials in combination with traditional insulation and radiant barriers to give a combined best of both worlds.
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This is a bit of a mistake in communication I see often. If a building is good at trapping heat in the way you describe, it actually has high thermal mass. You can use high thermal mass in combination with intentional insulation; but high thermal mass by itself isn't really insulation. A 6 inch thick concrete wall has an R value of 5-6. Whereas a framed wall even in temperate areas will be between 10-20R depending on construction quality. High thermal mass can absolutely smooth out daily temperature swings, but it can't (by itself) reject or retain heat the way that insulation does.
Theres actually some rather cool ideas around using phase change materials in combination with traditional insulation and radiant barriers to give a combined best of both worlds.
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demil3618
Just to clarify: Compressor frequency = compressor/pumping speed Don't these compressors have multiple plungers pushed by a wonky disk like vehicle ACs If so what does the frequency refer to
I get the point about preventing evapourator icing. Mercedes Sprinter ACs like to get icy e. g. and then you need to turn it off for a while until it melts away.
The reason about head pressure management (mentioned by a few others) sound quite logical. Maybe there is a real reason after all.
Otherwise I have always wondered why e. g. heating systems use an outside temp sensor instead of being guided by inside temp or water temperature (the concept of a leading room with a thermostat is another joke. And I initially thought this is a similar idea.
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Just to clarify: Compressor frequency = compressor/pumping speed Don't these compressors have multiple plungers pushed by a wonky disk like vehicle ACs If so what does the frequency refer to
I get the point about preventing evapourator icing. Mercedes Sprinter ACs like to get icy e. g. and then you need to turn it off for a while until it melts away.
The reason about head pressure management (mentioned by a few others) sound quite logical. Maybe there is a real reason after all.
Otherwise I have always wondered why e. g. heating systems use an outside temp sensor instead of being guided by inside temp or water temperature (the concept of a leading room with a thermostat is another joke. And I initially thought this is a similar idea.
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edwardtan4631
I'm not sure the installation specification of the specific unit that you have, but it looks like it is installed too close to the wall. Which can cause reduced efficiency, the coils need good fresh airflow.
Also alot of time manufacture will advertise the SEER number, which for example 9k BTU seer 16 vs 9k BTU seer 21 generally means that the indoor unit is the same sized, but the outside unit for the one with the higher seer is ussually much larger.
What you are saying in the video why the unit seems to have a lot of head room, but can cool any faster is most likely due to the manufacturer uses the same outdoor unit for multiple indoor units with higher BTUs but lower seer.
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I'm not sure the installation specification of the specific unit that you have, but it looks like it is installed too close to the wall. Which can cause reduced efficiency, the coils need good fresh airflow.
Also alot of time manufacture will advertise the SEER number, which for example 9k BTU seer 16 vs 9k BTU seer 21 generally means that the indoor unit is the same sized, but the outside unit for the one with the higher seer is ussually much larger.
What you are saying in the video why the unit seems to have a lot of head room, but can cool any faster is most likely due to the manufacturer uses the same outdoor unit for multiple indoor units with higher BTUs but lower seer.
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brucehanson4147
That's the craziest control methodology I've ever seen on a refrigeration unit. Typically the compressor VSD output is controlled by a pressure transducer on the suction side pressure, maintaining a pressure/temperature just above freezing, giving a fairly optimum efficiency and avoiding an evaporator coil freeze up. A lower evap coil temp will lower room temp quicker and cycle the unit off sooner, while also lowering humidity more effectively, making it more comfortable. I would be temped to take this hack further and include a feedback of the low side temp/pressure and shoot for a 4-5 C temp of the low side refrigerant.
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That's the craziest control methodology I've ever seen on a refrigeration unit. Typically the compressor VSD output is controlled by a pressure transducer on the suction side pressure, maintaining a pressure/temperature just above freezing, giving a fairly optimum efficiency and avoiding an evaporator coil freeze up. A lower evap coil temp will lower room temp quicker and cycle the unit off sooner, while also lowering humidity more effectively, making it more comfortable. I would be temped to take this hack further and include a feedback of the low side temp/pressure and shoot for a 4-5 C temp of the low side refrigerant.
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brl5755
You're increasing capacity by decreasing efficiency. Heat pumps operate most efficient at low output and low fan speeds. Once the indoor coil is cold enough to freeze you need to increase fan speed to prevent it. It's more energy efficient to leave it running (or setback only 1 degree) than to turn it off and cool your space when you return home. You'll also be removing stored heat in your building itself and all your furnishings and usually at the hottest part of the day. Large setbacks are only worth it if you are offsetting with more favorable outdoor conditions, cheaper electricity, or when gone for multiple days.
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You're increasing capacity by decreasing efficiency. Heat pumps operate most efficient at low output and low fan speeds. Once the indoor coil is cold enough to freeze you need to increase fan speed to prevent it. It's more energy efficient to leave it running (or setback only 1 degree) than to turn it off and cool your space when you return home. You'll also be removing stored heat in your building itself and all your furnishings and usually at the hottest part of the day. Large setbacks are only worth it if you are offsetting with more favorable outdoor conditions, cheaper electricity, or when gone for multiple days.
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MikkoRantalainen
10: 50 And this explains why the unit doesn't do this from the factory: it's already well into dimishing returns when you have to increase power intake 50% to get 30% to the cooling power. Properly designed heat pumps will scale linearly and should generate 50% more cooling power with 50% increase in input power!
If you accidentally purchased too small unit for your needs, this hack may make it less painful but the real fix would have been to upgrade to the unit that you actually wanted to have. That way you would get the improved cooling power without having equally high increase in power needs.
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10: 50 And this explains why the unit doesn't do this from the factory: it's already well into dimishing returns when you have to increase power intake 50% to get 30% to the cooling power. Properly designed heat pumps will scale linearly and should generate 50% more cooling power with 50% increase in input power!
If you accidentally purchased too small unit for your needs, this hack may make it less painful but the real fix would have been to upgrade to the unit that you actually wanted to have. That way you would get the improved cooling power without having equally high increase in power needs.
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Halina20011
why would you make a device which has heating element which can go up to 90deg just to trick the termistor when it would be way easier just to mimick the termistor
it has only two wires so it should be the one where the resistance changes based on the temp, adding way simpler and safer circuit to fake the termistor i think would be way safer and better approach.
i mean finding the values of the termistor might not be as easy but i feet would be more engineeringy nicer, more satisfying and safer.
What am i missing am i the only one who thinks this would be better Thanks!
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why would you make a device which has heating element which can go up to 90deg just to trick the termistor when it would be way easier just to mimick the termistor
it has only two wires so it should be the one where the resistance changes based on the temp, adding way simpler and safer circuit to fake the termistor i think would be way safer and better approach.
i mean finding the values of the termistor might not be as easy but i feet would be more engineeringy nicer, more satisfying and safer.
What am i missing am i the only one who thinks this would be better Thanks!
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Tarodenaro
You know, coming back here after watching Floridian Fridge Guy building wearable clunky, portable air-conditioned vest, i kinda wish you guys can F the planet, F the government, and starts built your own air conditioner guerilla movement on Europe. (well, maybe apart from Germany)
Like, he even teach you how to producing refrigerant from a supermarket fruit lol.
EDIT:
You can also put bigger capacitor in the compressor unit, which is way simpler than doing all of this, but it does stresses the motor just like what you're doing in this video.
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You know, coming back here after watching Floridian Fridge Guy building wearable clunky, portable air-conditioned vest, i kinda wish you guys can F the planet, F the government, and starts built your own air conditioner guerilla movement on Europe. (well, maybe apart from Germany)
Like, he even teach you how to producing refrigerant from a supermarket fruit lol.
EDIT:
You can also put bigger capacitor in the compressor unit, which is way simpler than doing all of this, but it does stresses the motor just like what you're doing in this video.
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JohnDIYSmith
Please dont replicate this at home.
I work with AC and warehouse cooling systems and there is so much about this thats half baked.
From damage to the unit due to the compressor getting liquid refridgand to bypassing safety there is plenty wrong here.
Also the AC in the video is made to be efficient and runn on a constant regulated output. this is also wy the power gets regulated down. simply pressing the turbo button on the remote or setting the temperature lower would have safely done the same result in most ac units
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Please dont replicate this at home.
I work with AC and warehouse cooling systems and there is so much about this thats half baked.
From damage to the unit due to the compressor getting liquid refridgand to bypassing safety there is plenty wrong here.
Also the AC in the video is made to be efficient and runn on a constant regulated output. this is also wy the power gets regulated down. simply pressing the turbo button on the remote or setting the temperature lower would have safely done the same result in most ac units
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Y-oldfaithful
Cool experiment Your refrigerant, in this case R32, has a certain operating span where it’s effective for cooling. You can check out its h log p diagram for more info. If you just keep lowering the pressure by increasing the compressor speed, you will eventually turn it into a freezer in this case an open freezer with lots of moisture. So that’s not going to work on its own. You can do all sorts of funny thing with a mini split, but that would require the correct certification
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Cool experiment Your refrigerant, in this case R32, has a certain operating span where it’s effective for cooling. You can check out its h log p diagram for more info. If you just keep lowering the pressure by increasing the compressor speed, you will eventually turn it into a freezer in this case an open freezer with lots of moisture. So that’s not going to work on its own. You can do all sorts of funny thing with a mini split, but that would require the correct certification
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PacaAlexandru
You can just set a lower temperature.
And increase the indoor unit airflow. More air flowing means more energy moved outside.
The AC has three more temperature sensors and the MCU has to keep track of all to prevent many bad things.
If you want more cooling just crank the fan on high and the temperature lower.
If you really want to hack it. crack the wifi protocol. You can send it power targets and even motor rpm or phase current.
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You can just set a lower temperature.
And increase the indoor unit airflow. More air flowing means more energy moved outside.
The AC has three more temperature sensors and the MCU has to keep track of all to prevent many bad things.
If you want more cooling just crank the fan on high and the temperature lower.
If you really want to hack it. crack the wifi protocol. You can send it power targets and even motor rpm or phase current.
reply
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