I tried finding Hidden Gems on AliExpress AGAIN! (SPECIAL Part 20)
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Date: 2026-09-04
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Comments and reviews: 20
hannesgroesslinger
That battery powered heater is a very convenient way to kill all your tool batteries.
It does not have a low voltage cut off, so it will keep running until the battery voltage is zero - which happens in about an hour of runtime.
Once the voltage is too low, any regular charger will simply refuse to charge the battery again.
You might be able to resurrect the battery by slowly and carefully charging the cells individually, but even then the battery will carry some lasting damage.
And even if you turn off the heater before the voltage drops below safe values: While it is running, the heater draws power near the upper current limit of most tool batteries, and it does that continuously. Which means the battery itself will most likely heat up to a point where its life time is severely reduced.
Of course these tool batteries usually have built in temperature monitoring, to detect if the battery is overheating. But they don't have any switching circuit inside to turn themselves off. Instead they only send a signal to the tool, so that the tool shuts off when the battery is overheating.
But this heater does not have the necessary circuit to receive this signal, it just keeps running and does not even notice that the battery cries for mercy.
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That battery powered heater is a very convenient way to kill all your tool batteries.
It does not have a low voltage cut off, so it will keep running until the battery voltage is zero - which happens in about an hour of runtime.
Once the voltage is too low, any regular charger will simply refuse to charge the battery again.
You might be able to resurrect the battery by slowly and carefully charging the cells individually, but even then the battery will carry some lasting damage.
And even if you turn off the heater before the voltage drops below safe values: While it is running, the heater draws power near the upper current limit of most tool batteries, and it does that continuously. Which means the battery itself will most likely heat up to a point where its life time is severely reduced.
Of course these tool batteries usually have built in temperature monitoring, to detect if the battery is overheating. But they don't have any switching circuit inside to turn themselves off. Instead they only send a signal to the tool, so that the tool shuts off when the battery is overheating.
But this heater does not have the necessary circuit to receive this signal, it just keeps running and does not even notice that the battery cries for mercy.
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ganjasage420
I built a pc from aliexpress. Besides power supply, aircooler and gpu. But case, motherboard, cpu, ram, fans, all from AliExpress. It's been over a year now, and even after learning a bit of settings in bios and having to reset it 5 times, still going strong. Only issues, one air cooler was 90mm, and the second one I bought, got bent from my own genius. So I bought one in my country.
The chinese hardware, Soyo board, a xeon cpu, Juhor ram, Lian-Li fans/hub, 3500mbs 1tb netac ssd nvme. American (bought in my country, a Zotac 1080ti ano extreme, 700w thermaltake white rating psu, thermalright cpu cooler.
I built as a all round joke, 1 was to see how good/bad the chinese hardware is. 2nd was to learn on, if it died/fried, not a major loss. And 3rd, to see how far I can push the system, after learning bios. 4th is how well does it handle hard hitting programs like prime95, mandelbrot, even some mining programs for fun.
It honestly suprises me how well it runs, but maybe having super low expectations everytime helps.
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I built a pc from aliexpress. Besides power supply, aircooler and gpu. But case, motherboard, cpu, ram, fans, all from AliExpress. It's been over a year now, and even after learning a bit of settings in bios and having to reset it 5 times, still going strong. Only issues, one air cooler was 90mm, and the second one I bought, got bent from my own genius. So I bought one in my country.
The chinese hardware, Soyo board, a xeon cpu, Juhor ram, Lian-Li fans/hub, 3500mbs 1tb netac ssd nvme. American (bought in my country, a Zotac 1080ti ano extreme, 700w thermaltake white rating psu, thermalright cpu cooler.
I built as a all round joke, 1 was to see how good/bad the chinese hardware is. 2nd was to learn on, if it died/fried, not a major loss. And 3rd, to see how far I can push the system, after learning bios. 4th is how well does it handle hard hitting programs like prime95, mandelbrot, even some mining programs for fun.
It honestly suprises me how well it runs, but maybe having super low expectations everytime helps.
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Lampe2020
About those ESCs I have only ever seen those with three leads to the motor, including those from inside a PC fan's hub (always three contacts between which the usually four coils are wired. But I have a dead HDD laying around, whose motor has four leads and that (at least from what I can tell with the limited testing I could do using a 3. 7V DC power supply) requires all four contacts to run (the motor, depending on its position, twitches on a combination of arbitrary two contacts, no contact seemed to never yield movement. Is there such a thing as a four-pole BLDC controller, or is one of the contacts for a different purpose than powering the motor and just happens to also be able to energise the coils inside
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About those ESCs I have only ever seen those with three leads to the motor, including those from inside a PC fan's hub (always three contacts between which the usually four coils are wired. But I have a dead HDD laying around, whose motor has four leads and that (at least from what I can tell with the limited testing I could do using a 3. 7V DC power supply) requires all four contacts to run (the motor, depending on its position, twitches on a combination of arbitrary two contacts, no contact seemed to never yield movement. Is there such a thing as a four-pole BLDC controller, or is one of the contacts for a different purpose than powering the motor and just happens to also be able to energise the coils inside
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LukasDzunko
2: 11. this kind of voltage stabilizer never put exact output voltage even if they are made properly by reputable company. they use steps on transformer and normally they are spaced by 10 - 20 V. That mean that if source is 245 V, then it will buck it by 20 V to 225 V. for 265 V -> 2x 20 V -> 225 V, etc. Same for boost. In Europe most power companies guarantee - 10% voltage difference and proper AVR stabilizer tight it down to 8 %. There is no need to have spot on output. Just to be sure that there is no over voltage, or under voltage feed to mains powered devices. I used AVR from Volt Polska several moths, because we had >266 V mains voltage during night and it was killing mains powered equipment.
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2: 11. this kind of voltage stabilizer never put exact output voltage even if they are made properly by reputable company. they use steps on transformer and normally they are spaced by 10 - 20 V. That mean that if source is 245 V, then it will buck it by 20 V to 225 V. for 265 V -> 2x 20 V -> 225 V, etc. Same for boost. In Europe most power companies guarantee - 10% voltage difference and proper AVR stabilizer tight it down to 8 %. There is no need to have spot on output. Just to be sure that there is no over voltage, or under voltage feed to mains powered devices. I used AVR from Volt Polska several moths, because we had >266 V mains voltage during night and it was killing mains powered equipment.
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HushemFlupskluk
The voltage stabalizer reminds me of my old charger for my electric moped from China called Lifan E3 which I purchased in july 2020. It also had loose soldering connections and above all the Shuko male plug had a CE mark on it. This Shuko male plug also had ground on it attached. But the wire was 0, 75 mm2 phase and null, but no ground present aswell. The metal casing in which all of this goodness from China is installed was also not grounded because of this. A few years later the plug to the defect battery started melting. It had a hard short circuit in it! Now the Lifan E3 supplier went bankrupt because his magazine burnt down to crisp. Which is not a surprise to me.
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The voltage stabalizer reminds me of my old charger for my electric moped from China called Lifan E3 which I purchased in july 2020. It also had loose soldering connections and above all the Shuko male plug had a CE mark on it. This Shuko male plug also had ground on it attached. But the wire was 0, 75 mm2 phase and null, but no ground present aswell. The metal casing in which all of this goodness from China is installed was also not grounded because of this. A few years later the plug to the defect battery started melting. It had a hard short circuit in it! Now the Lifan E3 supplier went bankrupt because his magazine burnt down to crisp. Which is not a surprise to me.
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nem64
These relay based voltage regulators are genuinely great and actually saved my house many times. There are properly built ones, however this one is a clear fire hazard. The first red flag should've been using a 16A plug on a device advertising 6800VA. A quality voltage stabilizer will use a terminal block at those power requirements
As for the voltage, that's just the unfortunate inaccuracy of relay based voltage regulators. They will make sure it's between 200 and 240V but they can't guarantee a perfect 230. But that's better than feeding the home 170v or 270v. Servo motor regulators can deliver a spot on voltage but is pretty expensive at those power levels.
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These relay based voltage regulators are genuinely great and actually saved my house many times. There are properly built ones, however this one is a clear fire hazard. The first red flag should've been using a 16A plug on a device advertising 6800VA. A quality voltage stabilizer will use a terminal block at those power requirements
As for the voltage, that's just the unfortunate inaccuracy of relay based voltage regulators. They will make sure it's between 200 and 240V but they can't guarantee a perfect 230. But that's better than feeding the home 170v or 270v. Servo motor regulators can deliver a spot on voltage but is pretty expensive at those power levels.
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ABaumstumpf
Chinese product - if it is electronics you can be almost certain that all required safety-mechanisms are faked or broken. If you want to produce in china and care to not get shoddy products you have to send your own personnel onside and have your own QC in the fabs. We once tried getting rollers for conveyorbelts manufactured there and sure the samples they send us were great, the actual shippings alos looked fine. Until 2 containers later where everything went to crap: of course the wire was no longer silicone-coated, copper-clad aluminium instead of copper, the casings wall-thickness far lower, and many more problems.
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Chinese product - if it is electronics you can be almost certain that all required safety-mechanisms are faked or broken. If you want to produce in china and care to not get shoddy products you have to send your own personnel onside and have your own QC in the fabs. We once tried getting rollers for conveyorbelts manufactured there and sure the samples they send us were great, the actual shippings alos looked fine. Until 2 containers later where everything went to crap: of course the wire was no longer silicone-coated, copper-clad aluminium instead of copper, the casings wall-thickness far lower, and many more problems.
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NFMorley
5: 45 - these sort of devices are a major security red flag. Whilst I’m sure many aren’t malicious, people should be very cautious with running these sort of random executables from companies/people they haven’t verified first. The other bigger issue is these system monitor’ executables generally need privileged (admin) access on Windows when installed to get low level kernel access in order to show system stats. A far safer method is using a small display as a second screen (either hdmi, DP, or even usb-c) and proven piece of software to collect/display it.
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5: 45 - these sort of devices are a major security red flag. Whilst I’m sure many aren’t malicious, people should be very cautious with running these sort of random executables from companies/people they haven’t verified first. The other bigger issue is these system monitor’ executables generally need privileged (admin) access on Windows when installed to get low level kernel access in order to show system stats. A far safer method is using a small display as a second screen (either hdmi, DP, or even usb-c) and proven piece of software to collect/display it.
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johanntiu4162
On a side note a relay type avr will never have a smooth output voltage. It's just inherent in the design. It more designed to prevent crazy swings of voltage at the output especially in places were voltages fluctuate wildly.
Ps. I live in the Philippines in a baraio where voltage fluctuations over 20v from a 220v supply is common. I use relay type avr (cheaper than servo type), and it has a ground connection, and the output display does show the mild fluctuations especially when the relays switch, and not a fixed voltage.
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On a side note a relay type avr will never have a smooth output voltage. It's just inherent in the design. It more designed to prevent crazy swings of voltage at the output especially in places were voltages fluctuate wildly.
Ps. I live in the Philippines in a baraio where voltage fluctuations over 20v from a 220v supply is common. I use relay type avr (cheaper than servo type), and it has a ground connection, and the output display does show the mild fluctuations especially when the relays switch, and not a fixed voltage.
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ted_van_loon
for that RC tank, if they used LoRa, or rc 2. 4ghz or 7ghz(fpv) then latency and range could both be much better, also would fit in that price range. now it is just as cheap to get a rc plance receiver and remote(or a rc car with a free chanel on the receiver) and a fpv kit, would be close to the same price but with proportional controlls, higher speeds, much better latency and range.
actually you could build it really cheap if building it yourself, if you have the tools to make it accurate enough.
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for that RC tank, if they used LoRa, or rc 2. 4ghz or 7ghz(fpv) then latency and range could both be much better, also would fit in that price range. now it is just as cheap to get a rc plance receiver and remote(or a rc car with a free chanel on the receiver) and a fpv kit, would be close to the same price but with proportional controlls, higher speeds, much better latency and range.
actually you could build it really cheap if building it yourself, if you have the tools to make it accurate enough.
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EFazy
For the first product. if it can behave like a 1: 1 transformer, you don't really nead earth at the output. I created an isolation transformer, where I have two microwave oven light bulbs series with the output (which can be overrided with a switch) so If I have to start something unknown, I let the light bulbs in series, and if it's glowing, then I have a short circuit. With that, there are no earth-dependency, so you only got shock if you lick both the wires: ) Maybe a new project: )
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For the first product. if it can behave like a 1: 1 transformer, you don't really nead earth at the output. I created an isolation transformer, where I have two microwave oven light bulbs series with the output (which can be overrided with a switch) so If I have to start something unknown, I let the light bulbs in series, and if it's glowing, then I have a short circuit. With that, there are no earth-dependency, so you only got shock if you lick both the wires: ) Maybe a new project: )
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rouuuk
About that stabilizer. Its impossible to run an ac without one here where i live. The grid voltage drops to 130v and back to 250v all day all summer.
They one you got is a bad quality but there are other ones that are way better quality. The voltage output varies by 25v with each click that's why it seems not stable.
The better stabilizer tech would be using a servo. Its output varies by 2-4 volts. Or even better using an on-line ups.
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About that stabilizer. Its impossible to run an ac without one here where i live. The grid voltage drops to 130v and back to 250v all day all summer.
They one you got is a bad quality but there are other ones that are way better quality. The voltage output varies by 25v with each click that's why it seems not stable.
The better stabilizer tech would be using a servo. Its output varies by 2-4 volts. Or even better using an on-line ups.
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oli1505
I also found something u might be interested in. It's a selectable USB c bidirectional charging board with XT connector. You can select the cell voltage and from 2-6S battery, so it also steps up the voltage from 20V to 24V.
search name: PD3. 1 140W 2S-6S Bidirectional PD Fast Charging
My only problem is that it's only a board and isn't designed to mount it into a box where u can see the LEDs and access the USB-c port easily.
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I also found something u might be interested in. It's a selectable USB c bidirectional charging board with XT connector. You can select the cell voltage and from 2-6S battery, so it also steps up the voltage from 20V to 24V.
search name: PD3. 1 140W 2S-6S Bidirectional PD Fast Charging
My only problem is that it's only a board and isn't designed to mount it into a box where u can see the LEDs and access the USB-c port easily.
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anthonyshiels9273
The Europe Tax on Low Value Items (defined as Items for less than 150. 00)
This is applied to Each Category of Items from any Non EU Country.
It applies to the United States, Canada, Australia, The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland aka England, &c.
It's applicable to Other Countries as well but my Dealings are mostly with these.
I live in Ireland.
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The Europe Tax on Low Value Items (defined as Items for less than 150. 00)
This is applied to Each Category of Items from any Non EU Country.
It applies to the United States, Canada, Australia, The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland aka England, &c.
It's applicable to Other Countries as well but my Dealings are mostly with these.
I live in Ireland.
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MonsievrPink
In fairness, the nut splitter is not meant for what you were attempting to do. The nut height needs to be proportional with the splitter, I don't think they make one smaller because it becomes redundant on anything that's M10 or less.
We mainly use them in automotive for things like ball joint nuts, they're typically 21mm and I'd say the height of them is usually 10-15mm
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In fairness, the nut splitter is not meant for what you were attempting to do. The nut height needs to be proportional with the splitter, I don't think they make one smaller because it becomes redundant on anything that's M10 or less.
We mainly use them in automotive for things like ball joint nuts, they're typically 21mm and I'd say the height of them is usually 10-15mm
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francoisrevol7926
09: 32 I wonder about the aging of the OLED display I have a pulse oxymeter with an OLED that's so dim now even in total darkness you barely see there's something on the screen. I have other examples to mention (the display on some DSL boxes, or mixing consoles) Hopefully technology has improved since, but I tend to avoid them if I can.
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09: 32 I wonder about the aging of the OLED display I have a pulse oxymeter with an OLED that's so dim now even in total darkness you barely see there's something on the screen. I have other examples to mention (the display on some DSL boxes, or mixing consoles) Hopefully technology has improved since, but I tend to avoid them if I can.
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mberglof
Here's a hidden gem for Ali orders, when you buy an item Ali saves a snapshot of the page so that you can view the listing even if the supplier removes the product. Check Orders -> Details (of an order) and on the products thumbnail there's a little camera that opens the snapshot. Thanks for all these little gems btw: )
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Here's a hidden gem for Ali orders, when you buy an item Ali saves a snapshot of the page so that you can view the listing even if the supplier removes the product. Check Orders -> Details (of an order) and on the products thumbnail there's a little camera that opens the snapshot. Thanks for all these little gems btw: )
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greatscott
The Stabiliser is fine, relays swapping transformer taps is a legitimate solution.
I could have used it last month when my rural European supply decided to drop down to 200Vac
As for the loose transformer and missing Earth, this is what to expect and of course everyone would open it up before use
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The Stabiliser is fine, relays swapping transformer taps is a legitimate solution.
I could have used it last month when my rural European supply decided to drop down to 200Vac
As for the loose transformer and missing Earth, this is what to expect and of course everyone would open it up before use
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nerdworldTV
I'm just about to release my first product into the wild - and i'm still concerend about safety, even tho it uses only 5 Volts and gets powered by an 2A USB charger (even tho i even added an additional fuse on the PCB. Seeing this stabilizer somehow gives me hope, that i'm not as much of a threat. :D
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I'm just about to release my first product into the wild - and i'm still concerend about safety, even tho it uses only 5 Volts and gets powered by an 2A USB charger (even tho i even added an additional fuse on the PCB. Seeing this stabilizer somehow gives me hope, that i'm not as much of a threat. :D
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edwardsnowden449
5: 30 the display, there is an implementation for the display using linux. you can use it as a terminal. Don't know if you can use the bigger display also for this.
Also there is an implementation for homeassistant, called weact4ha, that can be used to display several things on the display.
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5: 30 the display, there is an implementation for the display using linux. you can use it as a terminal. Don't know if you can use the bigger display also for this.
Also there is an implementation for homeassistant, called weact4ha, that can be used to display several things on the display.
reply
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