The physics of surfing - Nick Pizzo
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Date: 2020-08-22
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Comments and reviews: 7
David
The steepening wave face forms a hill of water. You slide down the hill like a skier or sledder slides down a mountain. Except this hill continuously catches up with you so your slide continues until the hill collapses. Simple. The fact that you descend while the hill continues to lift you creates that uncanny sense of weightlessness that makes the magic.
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The steepening wave face forms a hill of water. You slide down the hill like a skier or sledder slides down a mountain. Except this hill continuously catches up with you so your slide continues until the hill collapses. Simple. The fact that you descend while the hill continues to lift you creates that uncanny sense of weightlessness that makes the magic.
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Agent
2: 51 With the best barrels you can pull in and just get spit right out of em. And you just drop in and you smack the lip! Woh pah! You drop down and sbaaaaah! And then after that, you just drop in and just ride the barrel and get pitted. so pitted.
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2: 51 With the best barrels you can pull in and just get spit right out of em. And you just drop in and you smack the lip! Woh pah! You drop down and sbaaaaah! And then after that, you just drop in and just ride the barrel and get pitted. so pitted.
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Paul
It's crazy cause I just saw the wildly acclaimed Guinness surfing ad (well, allegedly anyway. I personally thought the ad was meh at best, but whatever) and was wondering how surfing works when Phill recommended this video.
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It's crazy cause I just saw the wildly acclaimed Guinness surfing ad (well, allegedly anyway. I personally thought the ad was meh at best, but whatever) and was wondering how surfing works when Phill recommended this video.
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The
But I didn't understand how we're not slipping off the board as the board is moving with the current,
wait
.
.
.
aah
Now I know,
the center of gravity and all that! right?
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But I didn't understand how we're not slipping off the board as the board is moving with the current,
wait
.
.
.
aah
Now I know,
the center of gravity and all that! right?
reply
Heron
Most surfers are Male. Because this is TED though, they need to take every opportunity to virtue signal. This is why greatness eludes you.
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Most surfers are Male. Because this is TED though, they need to take every opportunity to virtue signal. This is why greatness eludes you.
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TheMaestro
Guys I figured it out. TED stands Technology, Entertainment, and Design. I guess you learn something new everyday sometimes
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Guys I figured it out. TED stands Technology, Entertainment, and Design. I guess you learn something new everyday sometimes
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Oi
Thats why i live surfing I have tried to that to my friends but they still think you are just standing on a stick on the water
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Thats why i live surfing I have tried to that to my friends but they still think you are just standing on a stick on the water
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