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zakruti.com » Dish recipes » Adam Ragusea
Traditional rag alla bolognese, with fresh egg tagliatelle

Traditional rag alla bolognese, with fresh egg tagliatelle

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Rating: 4.5; Vote: 2
My old, non-traditional bolognese recipe, if you want that instead: Recipe, serves four, is easily multiplied For the sauce 1-1. 5 lb (454-681g) ground meat (typically a combination of beef and pork) 2-3 oz (57-85g) pancetta or other fatty cured meat (this is skippable) 2 celery stalks (I also save the leaves for garnish) 2-3 carrots 1/2 an onion white wine (can use water instead plus a splash of white balsamic vinegar) chicken stock (I used a whole 1 quart, 946 mL carton but you could replace some or all with plain water) milk tomato paste butter or olive oil salt pepper For the pasta 6 eggs all-purpose flour (about 3 cups, 360g plus more for dusting) olive oil salt Dice the pancetta finely and throw it into a cold pan big enough to hold all your sauce. Turn the heat on medium and let it render out its fat while you dice your carrots. (If you're skipping the pancetta, just heat a film of olive oil or butter in the pan) Stir the carrots into the pan. Dice the celery and stir it in, followed by the onion. At this point you may need some more fat to cook the vegetables, so put in a knob of butter or a glug of olive oil. Cook over moderate heat until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Dump them back out onto the cutting board. Put the ground meat into the pan and turn the heat up higher. Stir the meat and break it up with a wooden spoon until you've evaporated off most of its water and you've gotten some good browning. Stir in a big squeeze of tomato paste and then deglaze with enough white wine to just submerge everything. Stir in a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper, reduce the heat and simmer for at least two hours (4-5 hours is better. Stir occasionally and replenish the liquid with enough stock to keep everything just barely submerged. At some point while you're simmering, make the fresh pasta dough. Beat the eggs smooth with a glug of olive oil and pinch of salt. Stir in as much flour as the eggs will take. Knead the dough with additional flour until it's reasonably smooth and only a little sticky. Cover and let rest for at least 20 minutes. When you're about a half hour away from dinner, let the sauce evaporate out most of its water and then pour in just enough milk to get everything submerged again. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally until the sauce is thick. Now would be a good time to put a pot of salted water on the boil for pasta and to roll the dough out. Put your dough ball on a clean counter, scatter heavily with flour and roll with a rolling pin, turning and flipping frequently to make sure every surface is well-floured and doesn't stick. Keep rolling until you've got the sheet as thin as you can reasonably get it. Again make sure it's well-floured and then fold it over on itself a few times and transfer to a cutting board. Cut it into wide strips for tagliatelle. Scatter the strips with more flour and toss them to get them unfolded and separated. When the sauce is thick, taste it for seasoning and add salt, pepper, etc. (I might give it a splash of vinegar and maybe even a pinch of sugar call the Pasta Police) Drop the pasta in the boiling water and cook for a few minutes until it swells up noticeably and floats strongly to the surface. Drain, leaving a little pasta water behind to mix with the sauce. Stir in as much sauce as you want to coat all the pasta and serve grated cheese is not traditional but live your own life.
Date: 2022-06-24

Comments and reviews: 10


The first time I had this ragu in Italy was long before the internets, and I spent years and years trying to recreate it, because it was so lovely. I really love tomatoes, and I get how you can be disappointed if you expect tomatoes, but this is another thing. I feel it is in the same comfort food family as chicken soup or cauliflower cheese: bland, but in the best possible way. And apropos: definitely make a huge portion so you can freeze some sauce and use it later for a perfect lasagne with even more milk in the form of bechamel sauce and cheese (in lasagne, cheese is reccomended.
Here, (Europe but not Italy, one can buy a ready mixed beef/pork mince in every supermarket. I personally prefer just beef, and yes, a bit of chicken liver. Or I use a small sausage in place of the minced pork.
Some commenters have asked about using celeriac rather than celery. I use celeriac in the winter, when celery is pale and tasteless. But each to their own.
My grandmother was not Italian but she was fanatical about traditional recipes, and she grated the vegs. I don't always bother, but I have to say it adds deliciousness. (incidentally, we were together when I had that amazing ragu, and before that, she was suspicious of pasta dishes, but after having a bite of mine, she was transformed, and rapidly learnt how to cook an amazing lasagne bolognese both through reading books and by returning to that restaurant several times and learning from the cooks there. She NEVER shared recipes until much later when she couldn't stand up and had to order me around to get her preferred food.

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Adam, Adam, Adam, go to Wikipedia and listen to the pronunciation of tagliatelle. Why no American I met pronounces that gli remotely correctly? I suppose because English doesn't have that exact consonant. but then, you mispronounce gi, too, and you do have a similar sound.
As others said, there seem to be thousands of proper, traditional recipes. I saw one with no fewer than five kinds of meat, including chicken liver and mortadella. But meat, veggies, no garlic and little or no tomato, and, of course, milk or cream seem to be the invariant among them,

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I think the idea of there actually being a 'traditional' version of the dish, according to written records, is ultimately probably erroneous. People boiled up what they had, and ate it. Different areas had different abundances of different things, so a very meaty sauce, or a very tomatoey sauce, or a peppery sauce, an oniony sauce, etc, etc. would have become the thing people tended to eat in that area. But every family will have had its own traditions too, of course.
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6: 23 I reckon fresh pasta doesn't absorb as much salt from salty water because it already has some water inside it, and the 2-3 minutes it boils for are not nearly enough time for the salinity levels to equalize inside & out of the pasta. Compare with dried pasta which (a) boils for longer and (b) has practically no water to begin with, so it soaks up far more during the boiling - which means it soaks up the salt too!
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this is the closest i've seen to my grandmother's sauce. it's much heavier in tomato, very herb forward and the only part of a mirepiox used was the onion. how much was traditional, or how much much adapted to appeal the their southwestern clientele in the us, i can't speak too. never fit under classifications of ragu or bolognese. from here on i'm just calling it melatani.
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Adam this is the second time I've seen you get an egg with two yolks
I've never even heard of a double yolker before I watched your videos, but based on the comments I've read on the last time you got one, I guess they're quite rare
What sorcerery did you commit to have this phenomenon happen to you twice, whilst I had never even known such a thing was possible?

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Was in Italy a week ago. Had cinghiale al pappardelle in rome and it was a similar milk sauce. Good, but my favorite pasta was between a pepperoncini aglio e olio in Florence and this incredible crab and cherry tomato spaghetti in Venice. I spent a week and I can already tell I m going to be trying to capture those flavors for years.
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Re: why fresh pasta doesn t absorb as much salt from the water as dried pasta, maybe it s because the fresh pasta already has moisture in it and doesn t need to absorb as much water (and salt, in turn. In contrast, dried pasta absorbs all its moisture from the boiling water so it (perhaps) more readily absorbs water (and salt.
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I really like that you didn't use much tomato in this amazing sauce. My recipe is nearly the same as yours but with beef stock instead of chicken.
Anyway I have a sensitivity to tomatoes so I love a good recipe that doesn't call for a ton of tomatoes. I add sour cream if I want more acidity. Tastes amazing.
Cheers

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I probably heard this from someone so I can't take too much credit for the theory, but as it goes: fresh pasta doesn't get properly seasoned from the water it's cooked in because it cooks so quickly. The decreased cooking time doesn't allow the fresh pasta to absorb the salt from the cooking water.
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