JayzTwoCents on Water Cooling Rules: Hard vs. Soft Tubing, Fittings, & More LTX
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Date: 2020-05-06
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Comments and reviews: 10
Eddie
Avoid aluminium components in your loop, this includes rads and waterblocks even if they're nickel coated D5 pumps are more reliable and quieter to run than DDC pumps and usually provide more pressure Make sure your reservoir outlet leads to the pump inlet and ideally it should be above the pump to allow gravity to feed the fluid to it Buy more tubing than you need, not just the right amount, you may need to redo a cut or use a piece to fill/drain the loop, this also goes for the distilled water, get extra. Plain water is best with the least problems, add either some biocide or a strip of silver in the reservoir to kill bacteria Colourants and dies will stain your plastic tubing and acrylic blocks, be prepared to disassemble the loop to clean them if you want to change the fluid to a different colour and blocks will need to be dismantled to be properly cleaned out Plan out a proper drainage point for the loop, usually this will be the lowest point in the loop and using a ball valve fitting will make life so much easier when you want to drain it
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Avoid aluminium components in your loop, this includes rads and waterblocks even if they're nickel coated D5 pumps are more reliable and quieter to run than DDC pumps and usually provide more pressure Make sure your reservoir outlet leads to the pump inlet and ideally it should be above the pump to allow gravity to feed the fluid to it Buy more tubing than you need, not just the right amount, you may need to redo a cut or use a piece to fill/drain the loop, this also goes for the distilled water, get extra. Plain water is best with the least problems, add either some biocide or a strip of silver in the reservoir to kill bacteria Colourants and dies will stain your plastic tubing and acrylic blocks, be prepared to disassemble the loop to clean them if you want to change the fluid to a different colour and blocks will need to be dismantled to be properly cleaned out Plan out a proper drainage point for the loop, usually this will be the lowest point in the loop and using a ball valve fitting will make life so much easier when you want to drain it
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patriotpaul
I'm still using soft tube on my current watercooling and 1st AMD build in over 10 years of watercooling stuff. I have some hard line fittings and I just said Naa. I like the flexibility of soft tube. I'm too cheap to buy Primochill fittings but I have been using the XSPC black chrome fittings as my last 3 builds. I did buy 100. 00 solid copper nickel plated block and real strong D-5 pump and huge thick Nexcool copper 360 rads. I think those 3 things are where to spend your money for max cooling performance. tubing and fittings are just the pathway but I try to make it look good without paying 20. 00 per fitting. To me that seems insane unless your in a pro show or some sponsored build. I too got away from colors and just use water and biocide with PG. I am waiting on my 1st white case the Lian Li X11 to get here and it all gets installed.
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I'm still using soft tube on my current watercooling and 1st AMD build in over 10 years of watercooling stuff. I have some hard line fittings and I just said Naa. I like the flexibility of soft tube. I'm too cheap to buy Primochill fittings but I have been using the XSPC black chrome fittings as my last 3 builds. I did buy 100. 00 solid copper nickel plated block and real strong D-5 pump and huge thick Nexcool copper 360 rads. I think those 3 things are where to spend your money for max cooling performance. tubing and fittings are just the pathway but I try to make it look good without paying 20. 00 per fitting. To me that seems insane unless your in a pro show or some sponsored build. I too got away from colors and just use water and biocide with PG. I am waiting on my 1st white case the Lian Li X11 to get here and it all gets installed.
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Mr.
One point to clarify that continually gets lost with the talk of opaque coolants. Clear pre-mix or concentrate coolants do not have the same risks as opaque and are typically more reliable than distilled water with a biocide for long term use. Most pre mix coolants have anti corrosives along with biocide. If you intend to run your loop for more than about 6 months between drains/refills, a pre mix or concentrate clear is the most reliable way to go. Still, the number one way to prevent buildup in a loop is to flush and refill regularly. The more components in the loop, the more you use the system, the more often you should flush and refill. Even though I can and have gone over 2 years between flushes with 0 buildup or corrosion in loops, doesn't make it good. It's like an oil change on a car, preventative maintenance is always a good thing.
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One point to clarify that continually gets lost with the talk of opaque coolants. Clear pre-mix or concentrate coolants do not have the same risks as opaque and are typically more reliable than distilled water with a biocide for long term use. Most pre mix coolants have anti corrosives along with biocide. If you intend to run your loop for more than about 6 months between drains/refills, a pre mix or concentrate clear is the most reliable way to go. Still, the number one way to prevent buildup in a loop is to flush and refill regularly. The more components in the loop, the more you use the system, the more often you should flush and refill. Even though I can and have gone over 2 years between flushes with 0 buildup or corrosion in loops, doesn't make it good. It's like an oil change on a car, preventative maintenance is always a good thing.
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Todd
Jay the thermostat in your car is only used for warmup of the engine and prevents flow through the radiator until it reaches the t-stat opening temp which is usually around 180 F. After that point it's always open so there is actually constant flow and the temp will basically equalize as it does in a water cooling loop. The temp change you're noticing is only a result of airflow through the radiator either as a result of the fans coming on or physical air flow at higher speed. Goes to show the importance of airflow through the radiator but the same thing would happen on a water cooling loop if you manually switched the fans on and off as far as temps are concerned but the flow is in fact constant with respect to the water pump speed/engine RPM.
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Jay the thermostat in your car is only used for warmup of the engine and prevents flow through the radiator until it reaches the t-stat opening temp which is usually around 180 F. After that point it's always open so there is actually constant flow and the temp will basically equalize as it does in a water cooling loop. The temp change you're noticing is only a result of airflow through the radiator either as a result of the fans coming on or physical air flow at higher speed. Goes to show the importance of airflow through the radiator but the same thing would happen on a water cooling loop if you manually switched the fans on and off as far as temps are concerned but the flow is in fact constant with respect to the water pump speed/engine RPM.
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The
Gamer Nexus will be the next one to fall to the Youtube and sponsor devils. I remember watching Jay and Linus, even Paul from Paul back in the Newegg days. They had love and passion for their hobby. But now its all about sponsors and making money. I get it, Gotta pay the bills. But cmon, You guys test and review parts 95% of viewers will never afford. Its like window shopping, and the sponsorship makes you guys look like prostitutes for the pimps running the show. Ill give Jay credit for at least getting poor guys like us involved with budget builds. No offense to any of these Youtube guys but the bombardment of ads and sponsorship is diluting the integrity of the community.
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Gamer Nexus will be the next one to fall to the Youtube and sponsor devils. I remember watching Jay and Linus, even Paul from Paul back in the Newegg days. They had love and passion for their hobby. But now its all about sponsors and making money. I get it, Gotta pay the bills. But cmon, You guys test and review parts 95% of viewers will never afford. Its like window shopping, and the sponsorship makes you guys look like prostitutes for the pimps running the show. Ill give Jay credit for at least getting poor guys like us involved with budget builds. No offense to any of these Youtube guys but the bombardment of ads and sponsorship is diluting the integrity of the community.
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Planoramic
When half life 2 came out I watercooled my X800XT. I bought this bottle of liquid off the net that was AMAZING! But discontinued weeks later. It weighed several times more than water. Was totally inert and non conductive that you could submerge working electrical appliances in it. It had no tension or meniscus. Being my first ever liquid setup, I was learning as I went and kit wasn t what it is today and due to the lack of tension it leaks easier than water. It also evaporates very fast. It all leaked out of the tank joint and disappeared. Then I had to use fluid XP which was crap. I wish this was still available.
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When half life 2 came out I watercooled my X800XT. I bought this bottle of liquid off the net that was AMAZING! But discontinued weeks later. It weighed several times more than water. Was totally inert and non conductive that you could submerge working electrical appliances in it. It had no tension or meniscus. Being my first ever liquid setup, I was learning as I went and kit wasn t what it is today and due to the lack of tension it leaks easier than water. It also evaporates very fast. It all leaked out of the tank joint and disappeared. Then I had to use fluid XP which was crap. I wish this was still available.
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Thanny
Loop order always makes a difference, but hardly ever matters. The hotter the water when it enters the radiator, the faster that heat will be dissipated into the air, which means the cooler it will be after passing through the radiator. CPU's are smaller than GPU's, so the thermal density of the interface is higher. Have the coolest water (after the radiator or radiators) hit the CPU first, then the GPU, and then (after any other blocks) go to the radiator(s. That will give you the best temperatures, though the difference will probably be too low to even notice at a 1C granularity.
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Loop order always makes a difference, but hardly ever matters. The hotter the water when it enters the radiator, the faster that heat will be dissipated into the air, which means the cooler it will be after passing through the radiator. CPU's are smaller than GPU's, so the thermal density of the interface is higher. Have the coolest water (after the radiator or radiators) hit the CPU first, then the GPU, and then (after any other blocks) go to the radiator(s. That will give you the best temperatures, though the difference will probably be too low to even notice at a 1C granularity.
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3800Tech
I have always used FDA grade silicone hoses and automotive coolant. Have been using the same loop for the most part since 04 and only changed the coolant 3 times since then, and the pump was replaced in 08. Back then the pumps would be main powered aquarium pumps and that eventually wore out and got noisy so I have some brand 12v pump that no longer exists in its place. Apart from changing GPU blocks with upgrades and the coolant every 5 years or so it hasn't missed a beat!
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I have always used FDA grade silicone hoses and automotive coolant. Have been using the same loop for the most part since 04 and only changed the coolant 3 times since then, and the pump was replaced in 08. Back then the pumps would be main powered aquarium pumps and that eventually wore out and got noisy so I have some brand 12v pump that no longer exists in its place. Apart from changing GPU blocks with upgrades and the coolant every 5 years or so it hasn't missed a beat!
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RagoDN2
Your videos are excellently done and always provide valuable expertise in the hardware enthusiast space. It's unfortunate that I often choose to use these videos as background noise when I'm working since half the terminology is lost on me: P Seriously, thanks for all the effort you put in to travelling and bringing guests on; it matters even to non hardware geeks like myself to have fascinating topics discussed by people who know what they're talking about.
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Your videos are excellently done and always provide valuable expertise in the hardware enthusiast space. It's unfortunate that I often choose to use these videos as background noise when I'm working since half the terminology is lost on me: P Seriously, thanks for all the effort you put in to travelling and bringing guests on; it matters even to non hardware geeks like myself to have fascinating topics discussed by people who know what they're talking about.
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Giovanni
Why not have a sterilisation program for water cooling? If the plastics were designed to handle heat pasteurisation can be done. Regulate the fans and get the temperature up to 76+ deg C for 15 seconds for the entire solution. That is pasteurisation. To get this you would have to 'stress test' your system and probably turn your fans off due to passive heat loss. This is only theory in PC's but practice in the food industry.
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Why not have a sterilisation program for water cooling? If the plastics were designed to handle heat pasteurisation can be done. Regulate the fans and get the temperature up to 76+ deg C for 15 seconds for the entire solution. That is pasteurisation. To get this you would have to 'stress test' your system and probably turn your fans off due to passive heat loss. This is only theory in PC's but practice in the food industry.
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