Renovating the Abandoned WW2 Bunker: Temporary Skylight
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Date: 2020-01-17
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Comments and reviews: 10
Richard Osman
Hi I love watching you work with your dad I've got a couple of thoughts about the bunker. One for the sky light I think that a wooden wired glass panel would be good for strength and fairly in expensive. It is also a material that was widely used during the second world war. I don't think you will achieve propper ventilation without a fan. You only need a cheap toilet extract fan installed in the sky light riser. With a shot length of ducting dropping to the bottom of the riser. if you were to space the sky light to alow about a 1 gap below it. and blew the extracted air across the glass It would prevent condensation forming on the glass and dripping back into the bunker. You will also need to install an air transfer grill in the door to alow the air to flow right through the bunker. I hope that gives you some food for thought
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Hi I love watching you work with your dad I've got a couple of thoughts about the bunker. One for the sky light I think that a wooden wired glass panel would be good for strength and fairly in expensive. It is also a material that was widely used during the second world war. I don't think you will achieve propper ventilation without a fan. You only need a cheap toilet extract fan installed in the sky light riser. With a shot length of ducting dropping to the bottom of the riser. if you were to space the sky light to alow about a 1 gap below it. and blew the extracted air across the glass It would prevent condensation forming on the glass and dripping back into the bunker. You will also need to install an air transfer grill in the door to alow the air to flow right through the bunker. I hope that gives you some food for thought
reply
0623kaboom
make the air vent like a pipe end but the top portion use the corrugated sheet or lexan plastic sheet and make it lock down onto a little tunnel extension that is all bug screen and supports. then you get light. air and your power and a a hose line for water. in there. yes plumb the bunker with the hose and a basic little valve end so you have a sink for tea and water and power to run the sump whenever the water covers the pump. then your shelter will remain dry and mold free. and not need attending in wet times often as it will look after keeping water out by itself. as for esthetics. a section of camo tarp drapped over the cover works. or just make the top camo coloured. even use a bush or planter to disguise it
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make the air vent like a pipe end but the top portion use the corrugated sheet or lexan plastic sheet and make it lock down onto a little tunnel extension that is all bug screen and supports. then you get light. air and your power and a a hose line for water. in there. yes plumb the bunker with the hose and a basic little valve end so you have a sink for tea and water and power to run the sump whenever the water covers the pump. then your shelter will remain dry and mold free. and not need attending in wet times often as it will look after keeping water out by itself. as for esthetics. a section of camo tarp drapped over the cover works. or just make the top camo coloured. even use a bush or planter to disguise it
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martin sylvester
I would opt for a bespoke poly-carbonate skylight (bubble, I have some on my annexe flat roof very strong lets in light and can be opened from a winding mechanism underneath to let air in, would also look quite nice and create a feature (a talking point, Suspect you could also get a solar powered fan for air circulation and possibly a solar panel or wind turbine to power a battery for light etc or run a cable down to it from the house. If you cut into the walls (which will be very strong) you could make shelves(recesses) like in showers for storage so you use less space in the main area. Could this be a contender against the tackle shack. the awesome outdoor shack. mmm, perhaps not: )
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I would opt for a bespoke poly-carbonate skylight (bubble, I have some on my annexe flat roof very strong lets in light and can be opened from a winding mechanism underneath to let air in, would also look quite nice and create a feature (a talking point, Suspect you could also get a solar powered fan for air circulation and possibly a solar panel or wind turbine to power a battery for light etc or run a cable down to it from the house. If you cut into the walls (which will be very strong) you could make shelves(recesses) like in showers for storage so you use less space in the main area. Could this be a contender against the tackle shack. the awesome outdoor shack. mmm, perhaps not: )
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Finwolven
Since the sand underneath the shelter bottom was dry, you could put a plastic bucket or container down into the sump hole and trim and silicone it down so it won't let the water pass through underneath the bunker, and then pump out whatever water appears from condensation. Then again, it's deep enough it's surely below frostline, so you might just want to put a drain on top and let water drain from the floor into the hole. You're clearly above water table level, so any water coming down on the floor should just keep draining down lower and end up leaving the bunker without a fuss.
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Since the sand underneath the shelter bottom was dry, you could put a plastic bucket or container down into the sump hole and trim and silicone it down so it won't let the water pass through underneath the bunker, and then pump out whatever water appears from condensation. Then again, it's deep enough it's surely below frostline, so you might just want to put a drain on top and let water drain from the floor into the hole. You're clearly above water table level, so any water coming down on the floor should just keep draining down lower and end up leaving the bunker without a fuss.
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canadianman000
I work in a cold war era bunker in Canada. If you want to pay shipping, Ill build you a lid with a vent hook up. And a hinge to act as an escape hatch. Also, If you have any cracks in the walls, you can do injection filling, just google it. I'd love to have a go at restoring/retrofitting this little bunker (even for NBC, which would work since it has a 90 turn at the entrance. Also, it'l help your parging adhere better if you spray the dry concrete your spreading it on with some water first. It sucks the particles into the dry concrete like wood glue works on wood.
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I work in a cold war era bunker in Canada. If you want to pay shipping, Ill build you a lid with a vent hook up. And a hinge to act as an escape hatch. Also, If you have any cracks in the walls, you can do injection filling, just google it. I'd love to have a go at restoring/retrofitting this little bunker (even for NBC, which would work since it has a 90 turn at the entrance. Also, it'l help your parging adhere better if you spray the dry concrete your spreading it on with some water first. It sucks the particles into the dry concrete like wood glue works on wood.
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IanW00lley
I would definitely suggest hiring or buying a dehumidifier and leaving it down there for a few days. That should help dry out the masonry before you apply the sealant. Also, some mirror tiles around the inside of the vent shaft would help maximise the daylight down there. Actually, I just thought, you can get poly-carbonate sheets up to at least half an inch thick, which might work better than glass maybe? It's what they use in those modern telephone boxes. Even a grown man could stand on that without it breaking, so long as the frame is strong enough that is: -)
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I would definitely suggest hiring or buying a dehumidifier and leaving it down there for a few days. That should help dry out the masonry before you apply the sealant. Also, some mirror tiles around the inside of the vent shaft would help maximise the daylight down there. Actually, I just thought, you can get poly-carbonate sheets up to at least half an inch thick, which might work better than glass maybe? It's what they use in those modern telephone boxes. Even a grown man could stand on that without it breaking, so long as the frame is strong enough that is: -)
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Ronin
Line the sump hole with a skin of mortar so no sand gets sucked up into the pump. Then get a sump pump with a water switch that triggers the pump when the sump well gets to a certain level. A solar panel charging a battery down there will easily power a 12 volt sump pump of the type fitted to boats. Oi oi. Your dad fishes right? :-. In fact, I'd think about powering all the stuff down there using green power perhaps? As for the vent cover, go down the caravan skylight route. Just my pennies worth. Looking forward to video 4, 5 and 6 I reckon. Well done guys. Love it.
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Line the sump hole with a skin of mortar so no sand gets sucked up into the pump. Then get a sump pump with a water switch that triggers the pump when the sump well gets to a certain level. A solar panel charging a battery down there will easily power a 12 volt sump pump of the type fitted to boats. Oi oi. Your dad fishes right? :-. In fact, I'd think about powering all the stuff down there using green power perhaps? As for the vent cover, go down the caravan skylight route. Just my pennies worth. Looking forward to video 4, 5 and 6 I reckon. Well done guys. Love it.
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Brandon
1. You need to cement in the sump pump hole so the dirt beneath doesn't get washed up, make it water tight. 2. When you go to put the main air vent on use some quarter inch steel and have a vent pipe that is acceptable for nuclear fallout so its going to be an elbow vent pipe, preferably metal/steel. 3. Install a 100-200 watt solar panel kit you can pick up decent kits for 180, run the wires through metal electrical conduit you can design it within the air vent this should be plenty to run some LED lights in there.
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1. You need to cement in the sump pump hole so the dirt beneath doesn't get washed up, make it water tight. 2. When you go to put the main air vent on use some quarter inch steel and have a vent pipe that is acceptable for nuclear fallout so its going to be an elbow vent pipe, preferably metal/steel. 3. Install a 100-200 watt solar panel kit you can pick up decent kits for 180, run the wires through metal electrical conduit you can design it within the air vent this should be plenty to run some LED lights in there.
reply
TomazikasLT
I think you should put some concrete in that sump. I suggest you find a plastic bucket or something similar, big enough to fit the pump. Then make the hole larger than the bucket. Put a layer of concrete on the bottom of the hole, then put the bucket in the hole on that concrete and finally put concrete around the bucket and make it level to the floor. once the concrete is dry, take the bucket out and youll have a nice round concrete sump that you can cover up with a grille or something.
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I think you should put some concrete in that sump. I suggest you find a plastic bucket or something similar, big enough to fit the pump. Then make the hole larger than the bucket. Put a layer of concrete on the bottom of the hole, then put the bucket in the hole on that concrete and finally put concrete around the bucket and make it level to the floor. once the concrete is dry, take the bucket out and youll have a nice round concrete sump that you can cover up with a grille or something.
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ikopi56
Just a couple of suggestions. Some kind of liner for the sump pump pit. It would keep the pump from sucking up sand and maintain the dry integrity of the sand base under the floor. Second, some kind of clear plexiglass dome with vents would probably work better for a skylight. A dome shape would be stronger than a flat surface, less chance of a child or animal breaking through. It might also be possible for a domed skylight to allow more light to penetrate into the structure.
reply
Just a couple of suggestions. Some kind of liner for the sump pump pit. It would keep the pump from sucking up sand and maintain the dry integrity of the sand base under the floor. Second, some kind of clear plexiglass dome with vents would probably work better for a skylight. A dome shape would be stronger than a flat surface, less chance of a child or animal breaking through. It might also be possible for a domed skylight to allow more light to penetrate into the structure.
reply
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