Replace: Front Pads & Rotors GMC Sierra
video description
One small detail at which I was surprised - Eric sandblasted and lubed UNDER the pad mounting hardware (to prevent rusting - a good thing) but did not lube on the reverse - where the pads actually ride as they slide in and out. Evidence how he had to bang the inside pad at 2: 56 to free it because it was seized in place. Every other video Ive seen on pad replacement stresses this detail as important to ensure pads move freely.
A detail I found interesting - Eric lubed the actual contact points of the caliper rather than the entire backs of the pads. Ive never seen this in the dozens of videos Ive watched on the subject. 6 of one, half a dozen of other, I suppose, although it seems simpler to just lube the entire back surface of the pads as Ive seen every other YouTuber do. Maybe Erics method makes more sense, now that I think about it, because then youre not taking a chance on mishandling the pads and getting grease on the faces as you insert them into the caliper. Im a huge fan as of today!
Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 9
Engineering
Silverado front brakes I think fail quickly for 2 reasons: 1. Most of the silverados up to 2014 had drum rear brakes. As a result since most peole dont keep drum brakes adjusted and maintained properly it wears the fronts faster.
2. The design is slightly flawed. The pads themselves are pretty thin compared to alot of cars which inevitably hurts their lifespan. Additionally in conjunction with the drum rears it wouldn't hurt if they had put a larger rotor, pad, and caliper combo on these trucks. Although they do stop well I think they heat up more than other vehicles during normal use.
On my 05 I've found powerstop drilled and slotted rotors with their pads to be much more effective than your run of the mill autoparts store parts and similar price. Seem to increase brake life and the rotors dont rot out like this one did. Additionally as eric mentioned these calipers especially are prone to pad pinch not allowing the pads to slide on the caliper bracket correctly. Make sure you clean up those sliders like he does or you'll smoke your inside pad in 10k. I dont care to admit it but I've done it twice unfortunately.
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Silverado front brakes I think fail quickly for 2 reasons: 1. Most of the silverados up to 2014 had drum rear brakes. As a result since most peole dont keep drum brakes adjusted and maintained properly it wears the fronts faster.
2. The design is slightly flawed. The pads themselves are pretty thin compared to alot of cars which inevitably hurts their lifespan. Additionally in conjunction with the drum rears it wouldn't hurt if they had put a larger rotor, pad, and caliper combo on these trucks. Although they do stop well I think they heat up more than other vehicles during normal use.
On my 05 I've found powerstop drilled and slotted rotors with their pads to be much more effective than your run of the mill autoparts store parts and similar price. Seem to increase brake life and the rotors dont rot out like this one did. Additionally as eric mentioned these calipers especially are prone to pad pinch not allowing the pads to slide on the caliper bracket correctly. Make sure you clean up those sliders like he does or you'll smoke your inside pad in 10k. I dont care to admit it but I've done it twice unfortunately.
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Luis
Awesome video! I live in South Florida, not too concerned about the rust but I do have a couple of question. I recently painted the calipers and brackets. I don't think it was a smart idea, but I painted over the part where the shims go, same place that was sand blasted in this video & behind the ears. I've only done the rear so far, I'm doing the front part in a couple of days. Should I go back & remove the paint from those surfaces? I didn't grease under the shim either, just on top of it. Did I do that backwards or could I grease both sides?
I also cleaned up and painted the hubs, was that ok or was that a mistake; should I leave it as is or remove it? If I leave it on, could I apply copper anti seize over the painted hub surface or would you think the spray one you had in this video would fare out better, wasn't aware that was available. Definitely learned from this video, thanks.
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Awesome video! I live in South Florida, not too concerned about the rust but I do have a couple of question. I recently painted the calipers and brackets. I don't think it was a smart idea, but I painted over the part where the shims go, same place that was sand blasted in this video & behind the ears. I've only done the rear so far, I'm doing the front part in a couple of days. Should I go back & remove the paint from those surfaces? I didn't grease under the shim either, just on top of it. Did I do that backwards or could I grease both sides?
I also cleaned up and painted the hubs, was that ok or was that a mistake; should I leave it as is or remove it? If I leave it on, could I apply copper anti seize over the painted hub surface or would you think the spray one you had in this video would fare out better, wasn't aware that was available. Definitely learned from this video, thanks.
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Fred
You would think that the auto design engineers would know that rust is the enemy of brake components in at least half (maybe more) of the automotive world. There must be some sort of coatings on those steel parts that would allow them to be more resistant. Maybe galvanizing?
PS- I agree. The cleaning of brake friction surfaces paranoia is highly overrated. Whenever you do some serious braking, any packing grease will be burned off like pork fat on a BBQ grille. The intense heat on those rotors is no match for a little oil. People get excited about brake fluid too, if there is a leak, but its the same thing. Stuff burns off before it can cause wear problems.
That doesnt mean you shouldnt try to clean them off. Just dont need to stay up at night worrying about whether you got them clean enough.
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You would think that the auto design engineers would know that rust is the enemy of brake components in at least half (maybe more) of the automotive world. There must be some sort of coatings on those steel parts that would allow them to be more resistant. Maybe galvanizing?
PS- I agree. The cleaning of brake friction surfaces paranoia is highly overrated. Whenever you do some serious braking, any packing grease will be burned off like pork fat on a BBQ grille. The intense heat on those rotors is no match for a little oil. People get excited about brake fluid too, if there is a leak, but its the same thing. Stuff burns off before it can cause wear problems.
That doesnt mean you shouldnt try to clean them off. Just dont need to stay up at night worrying about whether you got them clean enough.
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Jerry
Very, very good video, informative and good description of the procedure. I wish I had the sandblasting cabinet to touch up the caliper hardware surfaces, ha. I do have a suggestion on the rust build up and prevention, MOVE TO SOUTH TEXAS, ha. I know that is not always possible but I don't see that chevy issue with the inboard pads. I get 80- 100 miles out of my Tahoe brakes and no rust issues. Oh well someone has to shovel snow, just glad I don't. ha. Oh, don't forget to give Cheech back his cap.
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Very, very good video, informative and good description of the procedure. I wish I had the sandblasting cabinet to touch up the caliper hardware surfaces, ha. I do have a suggestion on the rust build up and prevention, MOVE TO SOUTH TEXAS, ha. I know that is not always possible but I don't see that chevy issue with the inboard pads. I get 80- 100 miles out of my Tahoe brakes and no rust issues. Oh well someone has to shovel snow, just glad I don't. ha. Oh, don't forget to give Cheech back his cap.
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Joshua
Question for you sir. I wanna try doing my brakes for the first time. 06 Silverado 1500. It has new calipers, not sure what kind but the slide pins don't come out when you put the socket on. They just spin and spin. Towards the inside it looks like there's a spot on the pin that you would maybe put a wrench on and hold and then loosen with a socket? Is that how some of these are or do just need to use a screwdriver to pop it out?
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Question for you sir. I wanna try doing my brakes for the first time. 06 Silverado 1500. It has new calipers, not sure what kind but the slide pins don't come out when you put the socket on. They just spin and spin. Towards the inside it looks like there's a spot on the pin that you would maybe put a wrench on and hold and then loosen with a socket? Is that how some of these are or do just need to use a screwdriver to pop it out?
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Suicidaljello
Are winters in New York that different from where I am in wisconsin? Is it the fact your so close to the ocean or somthing? We have bad winters and use salt like crazy but I have never seen the rust issues you have can easily go 5 years with out replacing brakes and even longer on rotors in fact I've never replaced rotors it's like a different world on your videos very eye opening and wallet draining it would seem
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Are winters in New York that different from where I am in wisconsin? Is it the fact your so close to the ocean or somthing? We have bad winters and use salt like crazy but I have never seen the rust issues you have can easily go 5 years with out replacing brakes and even longer on rotors in fact I've never replaced rotors it's like a different world on your videos very eye opening and wallet draining it would seem
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Chuck
Need a rear drum brake job. My 86 Toyota has those and I hate them with a passion. The parking brake levers are wacko. Luckily the OEM replacement shoes last 100, 000 miles, so only have to do the rears once every 6 years. Like you, I clean every thing to like new and use lube on all the metal to metal contact point. Never had an issue yet.
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Need a rear drum brake job. My 86 Toyota has those and I hate them with a passion. The parking brake levers are wacko. Luckily the OEM replacement shoes last 100, 000 miles, so only have to do the rears once every 6 years. Like you, I clean every thing to like new and use lube on all the metal to metal contact point. Never had an issue yet.
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Dale
I have a 2008 GMC SIERRA K1500 Denali with a 6. 2 motor and 20 tires. On my truck they talk about the front brakes having fingers or not having fingers. what are they talking about. Like you I have changed many brakes and I never have heard of these before. help me please, because I need to change them.
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I have a 2008 GMC SIERRA K1500 Denali with a 6. 2 motor and 20 tires. On my truck they talk about the front brakes having fingers or not having fingers. what are they talking about. Like you I have changed many brakes and I never have heard of these before. help me please, because I need to change them.
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wb6uce
Question? Do you hve to be careful not to push in the brake pede lin too far when pumping up the brakes? I was told to put a block of wood under the pedal when bleeding the brakes else you rip the cup on the rough part of the mater cylinder? Does this apply to a break job?
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Question? Do you hve to be careful not to push in the brake pede lin too far when pumping up the brakes? I was told to put a block of wood under the pedal when bleeding the brakes else you rip the cup on the rough part of the mater cylinder? Does this apply to a break job?
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