DIY: Power Steering Return Line
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Okella
Great video. Loving the ingenuity. Got a question for you. I am replacing the same line but not all the way back like you. It took much strength to remove the leaky line. Now the install is apparently even harder. Do you have any suggestion on sliding the hard rubber onto the barbed metal hose? I have about a centimeter connected now and had to stop due to lighting and temp. Do I just keep forcing and if so, what tools to you recommend? Currently I am using a pair of pliers to hold the metal (im sorry) and my gloved hand pressing where I parked a pipe clamp.
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Great video. Loving the ingenuity. Got a question for you. I am replacing the same line but not all the way back like you. It took much strength to remove the leaky line. Now the install is apparently even harder. Do you have any suggestion on sliding the hard rubber onto the barbed metal hose? I have about a centimeter connected now and had to stop due to lighting and temp. Do I just keep forcing and if so, what tools to you recommend? Currently I am using a pair of pliers to hold the metal (im sorry) and my gloved hand pressing where I parked a pipe clamp.
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spelunkerd
I had to laugh when you said the video might not be worth recording. To the contrary, learning how you put in that detent at the end was something many of us have never seen before. Not having the tool, I wonder if I could just put a double brake line flare at the very end to accomplish the same task of preventing the rubber connecting hose from coming off. Not ideal but a work around.
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I had to laugh when you said the video might not be worth recording. To the contrary, learning how you put in that detent at the end was something many of us have never seen before. Not having the tool, I wonder if I could just put a double brake line flare at the very end to accomplish the same task of preventing the rubber connecting hose from coming off. Not ideal but a work around.
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Miles
It's your attention to detail (and your pointing out little but important details like make sure critical fluid lines aren't rubbing on anything) that helped me to think of and produce custom anti-rub insulation which I installed on the lines passing between the condenser / radiator and the A/T on my Honda Pilot when I put in the aftermarket A/T fluid cooler. Thanks, dude!
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It's your attention to detail (and your pointing out little but important details like make sure critical fluid lines aren't rubbing on anything) that helped me to think of and produce custom anti-rub insulation which I installed on the lines passing between the condenser / radiator and the A/T on my Honda Pilot when I put in the aftermarket A/T fluid cooler. Thanks, dude!
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throttle
barb couplings, rubber hose and zip tied to the old line is what I'd have tossed on it, but you can imagine the jewels here in Ohio, that will outlast the rest of the vehicle.
since it's the return side that small amount of line isn't providing cooling to amount to anything, so no worries there either
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barb couplings, rubber hose and zip tied to the old line is what I'd have tossed on it, but you can imagine the jewels here in Ohio, that will outlast the rest of the vehicle.
since it's the return side that small amount of line isn't providing cooling to amount to anything, so no worries there either
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David
Just had the same thing replaced on my'08 Lincoln MKX, BUT Napa, & advance didn't have it available for 3 days, but surprisingly the Ford stealership had it and was cheaper than both(kinda unusual) and the owner said the counter guy said that it's a part that goes bad often
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Just had the same thing replaced on my'08 Lincoln MKX, BUT Napa, & advance didn't have it available for 3 days, but surprisingly the Ford stealership had it and was cheaper than both(kinda unusual) and the owner said the counter guy said that it's a part that goes bad often
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Monkey
Got my hydraulic flaring tool from the CarQuest I was working at PT that advance closed. 50. One of my greatest days getting one over on the man. And Im in the NE too so lots of brake line work comes my way too. I like that GM die for it to bump that out.
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Got my hydraulic flaring tool from the CarQuest I was working at PT that advance closed. 50. One of my greatest days getting one over on the man. And Im in the NE too so lots of brake line work comes my way too. I like that GM die for it to bump that out.
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Nicholas
This video repair was extremely helpful to me (2002 Camry. Mine corroded and leaked at the bottom of that tubing U where it heads back up the reservoir. Seeing the exact path and how you get access to it is great stuff. Thanks.
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This video repair was extremely helpful to me (2002 Camry. Mine corroded and leaked at the bottom of that tubing U where it heads back up the reservoir. Seeing the exact path and how you get access to it is great stuff. Thanks.
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Richard
Bending pipe is a skill unto itself. I've done just a few bends on a pipe used for electrical runs and they get interesting. Have never done any for vehicle maint. Just takes practice, practice, practice.
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Bending pipe is a skill unto itself. I've done just a few bends on a pipe used for electrical runs and they get interesting. Have never done any for vehicle maint. Just takes practice, practice, practice.
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Fernando
Hey I'm not familiar with this stuff but my return line from the hose where the reservoir is to the return line is kind of loose does that need to be tight or is it supposed to move around freely
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Hey I'm not familiar with this stuff but my return line from the hose where the reservoir is to the return line is kind of loose does that need to be tight or is it supposed to move around freely
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Fred
I was doing copper, brass and steel pipe flaring back in the 70's. Mostly for high vacuum pump backing and cooling lines. There is something satisfying about doing it by hand with a tool like that!
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I was doing copper, brass and steel pipe flaring back in the 70's. Mostly for high vacuum pump backing and cooling lines. There is something satisfying about doing it by hand with a tool like that!
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