Ford F-150 5. 0 Coyote: Cam Timing Codes
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Date: 2023-02-21
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Comments and reviews: 14
William
I'm a 78 yr old shadetree mechanic. I didn't believe in engine additives/flushes either until I saw the Project Farm video where he gave his Ford Ranger a triple dose of Seafoam, gas, intake, and oil. Afterwards the noisy lifters had quietened down. Anyhow, the last couple of oil changes on my 2002 F150 5. 4 with 170k miles I added 6 ounces of Seafoam to the oil about 30 miles before changing. The oil was blacker upon draining and the engine is a little quieter on cold startups now. I plan to continue doing it. The truck had 69k miles on it when I bought it and I don't really know how often the oil was changed before I got it in 2009. I had my oil changed at a quick change place in Illinois I think when I was working there and their standard practice was to add a cleaner to oil before they drove it into the bay. Poed me at the time.
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I'm a 78 yr old shadetree mechanic. I didn't believe in engine additives/flushes either until I saw the Project Farm video where he gave his Ford Ranger a triple dose of Seafoam, gas, intake, and oil. Afterwards the noisy lifters had quietened down. Anyhow, the last couple of oil changes on my 2002 F150 5. 4 with 170k miles I added 6 ounces of Seafoam to the oil about 30 miles before changing. The oil was blacker upon draining and the engine is a little quieter on cold startups now. I plan to continue doing it. The truck had 69k miles on it when I bought it and I don't really know how often the oil was changed before I got it in 2009. I had my oil changed at a quick change place in Illinois I think when I was working there and their standard practice was to add a cleaner to oil before they drove it into the bay. Poed me at the time.
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aniBlueRoseVamp
Here is the thing, I have been working on car's since 1983. So I been working on car's since before the days of OBD-1, and as far as using oil flushes like Marvels Mystery oil, sea foam etc IMO you could probably get away with it on something Pre-1985. And you might could be OK if you did it on something Pre-1992, but anything that is on OBD-2 absolutely positively NO. The reason being, is the risk of causing a sensor or something to stop working is way too high IMO. And honestly I would not do it on anything that has an actual oil filter, for fear of plugging up an oil passage or the filter with sludge. Now a Model T or Model A flat head, yeah as those engines do not use oil filters and it would just thin the oil out for easy drainage.
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Here is the thing, I have been working on car's since 1983. So I been working on car's since before the days of OBD-1, and as far as using oil flushes like Marvels Mystery oil, sea foam etc IMO you could probably get away with it on something Pre-1985. And you might could be OK if you did it on something Pre-1992, but anything that is on OBD-2 absolutely positively NO. The reason being, is the risk of causing a sensor or something to stop working is way too high IMO. And honestly I would not do it on anything that has an actual oil filter, for fear of plugging up an oil passage or the filter with sludge. Now a Model T or Model A flat head, yeah as those engines do not use oil filters and it would just thin the oil out for easy drainage.
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mazdaman
The main problem I have found with quite a few cam timing problems is lack of use, by which I mean revving the engine under load so that they come into use. The oil is clean but the owners drive gently to save gas, but when they do a quick pull out the engine flags up a fault as in the vvt sprocket the oil is old and thicker. I have this on a couple of Toyota's and Honda's where all I have done is get them hot, then held them in lower gears and taken the revs right up several times. The oil gets flushed in the sprockets, they start to move and the car has regained it's youth!
Most of the cars were owned by retired people and the transmission shifted well before vvt really came into play, none could be described as road burners.
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The main problem I have found with quite a few cam timing problems is lack of use, by which I mean revving the engine under load so that they come into use. The oil is clean but the owners drive gently to save gas, but when they do a quick pull out the engine flags up a fault as in the vvt sprocket the oil is old and thicker. I have this on a couple of Toyota's and Honda's where all I have done is get them hot, then held them in lower gears and taken the revs right up several times. The oil gets flushed in the sprockets, they start to move and the car has regained it's youth!
Most of the cars were owned by retired people and the transmission shifted well before vvt really came into play, none could be described as road burners.
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Willis
I just had the same issue on a Ford F-150 a couple weeks ago. Those solenoids are really close tolerance between the spool valve and the barrel so it doesn t take much to stick them. When you start the engine you have oil pressure acting on the solenoid spool valve as well. So when you shock the solenoid with 12v and the engine off you have also removed the oil pressure from the equation which allows more freedom of movement with the spool valve. This freedom of movement without oil pressure can be all it takes to unstick the solenoid but chances are it will stick again. It s also a good test if you are trying to determine if it s a bad phaser or solenoid problem. Phasers usually don t fix themselves.
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I just had the same issue on a Ford F-150 a couple weeks ago. Those solenoids are really close tolerance between the spool valve and the barrel so it doesn t take much to stick them. When you start the engine you have oil pressure acting on the solenoid spool valve as well. So when you shock the solenoid with 12v and the engine off you have also removed the oil pressure from the equation which allows more freedom of movement with the spool valve. This freedom of movement without oil pressure can be all it takes to unstick the solenoid but chances are it will stick again. It s also a good test if you are trying to determine if it s a bad phaser or solenoid problem. Phasers usually don t fix themselves.
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watajob
My wife's Kia Soul has 163K, which is the highest mileage engine I've ever dealt with. It was my daughters car that we bought at 147K rather than giving it to the dealer when she bought her new one. She had a maintenance contract on it but never knew what they used in it. I started it on a diet of HM synthetic and a few hundred miles before the oil change, dump 8 oz. of MMO into it. First couple of drains did seem a bit darker than was on the stick before adding the sauce. Now, it's about the same. So, anecdotally, I think there is some good to be said about a little extra cleaner being added on a temporary basis. But, running it on straight magic juice of some kind? Strikes me ass a bad idea, too.
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My wife's Kia Soul has 163K, which is the highest mileage engine I've ever dealt with. It was my daughters car that we bought at 147K rather than giving it to the dealer when she bought her new one. She had a maintenance contract on it but never knew what they used in it. I started it on a diet of HM synthetic and a few hundred miles before the oil change, dump 8 oz. of MMO into it. First couple of drains did seem a bit darker than was on the stick before adding the sauce. Now, it's about the same. So, anecdotally, I think there is some good to be said about a little extra cleaner being added on a temporary basis. But, running it on straight magic juice of some kind? Strikes me ass a bad idea, too.
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scanner
The argument of 3, 000, 5, 000, or 10, 000 oil change is somewhat of a moot point. I drive 200 miles/day in my Subaru, my wife drives 1 mile at a time in our Buick for maybe 6 miles a day. I change oil every 5000 and it still looks really good at that point. The Buick oil is another story, by less than 1000 miles it looks ready for a change. The Buick gets nothing but short trips and and car probably rarely enters closed loop controls. I am trying to say oil life depends on driving habits more than mileage. What counts is recommended oil and a good filter. I still would not drive my Subaru more than 5k on oil. Oil is cheaper than an engine. So I change each car oil accordingly.
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The argument of 3, 000, 5, 000, or 10, 000 oil change is somewhat of a moot point. I drive 200 miles/day in my Subaru, my wife drives 1 mile at a time in our Buick for maybe 6 miles a day. I change oil every 5000 and it still looks really good at that point. The Buick oil is another story, by less than 1000 miles it looks ready for a change. The Buick gets nothing but short trips and and car probably rarely enters closed loop controls. I am trying to say oil life depends on driving habits more than mileage. What counts is recommended oil and a good filter. I still would not drive my Subaru more than 5k on oil. Oil is cheaper than an engine. So I change each car oil accordingly.
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Abrams
I agree with you about the engine flush. People need to understand this is your shop, reputation, and insurance policy on the line. You have to have as little liability in it as possible to protect you and your investment. Those flushes are not recomended by any manufacturers that i have seen so i dont do them either. If a manufacturer were to recomend it in service data about using something specific, then i would consider it only if the customer understands it is not a guaranteed fix. I feel like those are more bandaid type solutions for a bigger problem.
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I agree with you about the engine flush. People need to understand this is your shop, reputation, and insurance policy on the line. You have to have as little liability in it as possible to protect you and your investment. Those flushes are not recomended by any manufacturers that i have seen so i dont do them either. If a manufacturer were to recomend it in service data about using something specific, then i would consider it only if the customer understands it is not a guaranteed fix. I feel like those are more bandaid type solutions for a bigger problem.
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Scott
I was fixated on #5 cyl. coil bringing disconnected when you were clicking the solenoid. I'm like Eric will see this pretty soon l hope! You never disappoint! LoL. There's that attention to detail thing again. I have had success exercising different manufacturer 's solenoids. l always figured power probe blast was more intense than pcm pulse width modulation and that's what freed it up? Good tech buddy as usual, beats reading woke newspaper before work. You have actually inspired an old tech to get after it again. Thanks young man!
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I was fixated on #5 cyl. coil bringing disconnected when you were clicking the solenoid. I'm like Eric will see this pretty soon l hope! You never disappoint! LoL. There's that attention to detail thing again. I have had success exercising different manufacturer 's solenoids. l always figured power probe blast was more intense than pcm pulse width modulation and that's what freed it up? Good tech buddy as usual, beats reading woke newspaper before work. You have actually inspired an old tech to get after it again. Thanks young man!
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BigDaddy
I did the math. Created some algorithms, did some 3D calculus, I did complex 3 dimensional geometry, and wound up with a truly fantastic Bloody Mary.
And, watching you, I realize that you are (in my personal opinion) completely right. No engine flush, change the oil and drive it. If it happens again, then bite the bullet and change all 4 phasers, and we have a happy camper. er. customer. I'm off to mix up another Bloody Mary. Cheers!
Thanks, Mr. O. Great video!
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I did the math. Created some algorithms, did some 3D calculus, I did complex 3 dimensional geometry, and wound up with a truly fantastic Bloody Mary.
And, watching you, I realize that you are (in my personal opinion) completely right. No engine flush, change the oil and drive it. If it happens again, then bite the bullet and change all 4 phasers, and we have a happy camper. er. customer. I'm off to mix up another Bloody Mary. Cheers!
Thanks, Mr. O. Great video!
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James
I have a 2015 f150 it has 87 thousand miles on it. I always recommend 3-5 thousand mile oil changes. Help keep from having fazer issues. Of course I have the 2. 7 which I had to add a jlt 3. 0 catch can. Boy do those fazers sound noisy on that 5. 0. I would change the solids and add 5 once s of seafoam and take it for a 20 minute ride before an oil change help clean the small ports in the fazers to keep them quiet. Nice job on the diagnosis keep up the good work
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I have a 2015 f150 it has 87 thousand miles on it. I always recommend 3-5 thousand mile oil changes. Help keep from having fazer issues. Of course I have the 2. 7 which I had to add a jlt 3. 0 catch can. Boy do those fazers sound noisy on that 5. 0. I would change the solids and add 5 once s of seafoam and take it for a 20 minute ride before an oil change help clean the small ports in the fazers to keep them quiet. Nice job on the diagnosis keep up the good work
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Jim
if you know why in how to us Marvil Myster Oil, keeps engines running cleaner and smother.
both in the wife's car and the truck, both are Chevy's. I had way less issues with the no# lifters in the Chev's when using Marvil oil< 350's and big blocks. love the stuff. the 2015, has 90, 000 on it now; didn't like the way the engine was running, the shop didn't know, so I went old school, fixed it. runs much smoother now; those odd ball lifters, what a joke.
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if you know why in how to us Marvil Myster Oil, keeps engines running cleaner and smother.
both in the wife's car and the truck, both are Chevy's. I had way less issues with the no# lifters in the Chev's when using Marvil oil< 350's and big blocks. love the stuff. the 2015, has 90, 000 on it now; didn't like the way the engine was running, the shop didn't know, so I went old school, fixed it. runs much smoother now; those odd ball lifters, what a joke.
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MGF
Here in the UK i see this alot in engines that run wet timing belts. These actuators block with the fine rubber belt particles which shread off into the entire oil system. Totally with you on the oil flush topic too, once it s in there traces of it stay in the new oil because it s virtually impossible to drain all the old oil without stripping the engine apart. I just get the old oil up to running temp then drain it & never had problems with any of my cars
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Here in the UK i see this alot in engines that run wet timing belts. These actuators block with the fine rubber belt particles which shread off into the entire oil system. Totally with you on the oil flush topic too, once it s in there traces of it stay in the new oil because it s virtually impossible to drain all the old oil without stripping the engine apart. I just get the old oil up to running temp then drain it & never had problems with any of my cars
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Dangerous
Not a mechanic i just build motors and do swaps, but in my experience the Cayote solenoid is pretty much expected to go around 150-200k km. It's basically a maintainece item. I've been told it's gonna always go around that mark so every 150-200k but i've not seen any 400k motor yet, and i avoid high mileage motors/vehicles i prefer lower mileage to build and sell for obvious reasons. I'm surprised it failed so low though i haven't seen that yet.
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Not a mechanic i just build motors and do swaps, but in my experience the Cayote solenoid is pretty much expected to go around 150-200k km. It's basically a maintainece item. I've been told it's gonna always go around that mark so every 150-200k but i've not seen any 400k motor yet, and i avoid high mileage motors/vehicles i prefer lower mileage to build and sell for obvious reasons. I'm surprised it failed so low though i haven't seen that yet.
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Dakota
I loved seeing that spark plug wire disconnected during the solenoid testing and seeing how long it would take for you to see that, haha. I used to see that a lot on spark plug connectors at the ford dealer. I think people get a little too rough with them clips and they just start pulling and prying to get it out. Great video as always, I've been watching for 8 years now! Learned a lot from you, including that I need more tools for this profession
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I loved seeing that spark plug wire disconnected during the solenoid testing and seeing how long it would take for you to see that, haha. I used to see that a lot on spark plug connectors at the ford dealer. I think people get a little too rough with them clips and they just start pulling and prying to get it out. Great video as always, I've been watching for 8 years now! Learned a lot from you, including that I need more tools for this profession
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