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zakruti.com » Knowledge, science, education » The Engineering Mindset
Consumer Unit Explained - Fuse Board

Consumer Unit Explained - Fuse Board

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
Consumer Unit Explained - Fuse Board Craig: Looking for some advice, I have 3 appliances each allegedly consuming 3050 at maximum capacity, but the wires and my main feed to the consumer unit is getting so hot. I deliberately upgraded my consumer unit so it could handle these appliances. I installed the outlet (Specifically for these appliances) using Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a 50-amp breaker, then installed ANOTHER Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a another 50-amp breaker so there are now 2, one for two lower end of the consumer unit and the other for the higher end. Furthermore, I also have two BG 80A 30mA 2 Residual current device (RCD) installed on the consumer unit and the main feed that powers the consumer unit has a fuse of 100amps.
These appliances are in a container where I linked each outlet to one another so they can draw power from the first one (again, each has its own 50-amp breaker at the opposing side of the consumer unit, one for the upper side and one for the lower side, not sure if that is causing resistance as I even have the powercables with 13amp fuses to power those appliances, but since there is a 50amp breaker for each outlet, Im still confused.

Date: 2023-11-17

Comments and reviews: 29


Great video. Here is South Africa, lights and stoves are not wired through the RCD(we call it an earth leakage, so the live conductor go straight to the MCB from the mains breaker to the load, with the neutral conductor coming back from the load also going straight back to the neautral bar on the top left and then to the mains neutral. Just another way of doing it because sometimes lights and stoves can cause false tripping, hence bypassing the earth leakage.
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I'm glad that I live and work in Denmark as an electrician, our system compared to UK / US is far superior, and more safe and easier to troubleshoot on: ) Any videon on the Scandinavian systems? Denmark Norway and Sweden is almost the same, Norway use IT systems more because they live on a rock but other then that its almost the same, and what's up with only 1p not 3p? Is it that rare to have 3p power in a normal household in the UK?
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Wired up my garden room, open consumer unit found a spare breaker, then shoved the earth and neutral into nearest vacant terminals and nada! Your explanation of RCDs enabled me to realise my CU was split in two with just one RCD and the other half was on breakers alone and I'd wired the live from breakers and the neutral was on the RCD neutral block. Quick re jig balanced the supply and bingo! Thanks so much
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Maybe I missed something, but I thought UK and EU used delta-connected circuits for power distribution, meaning no neutral is required. So where is the neutral for the house coming from? Another phase, or grounded at the pole?
In North America all modern power distribution is Y (star) connected, so the neutral is inherent to the system already.

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This video contradicts your video about earthing. Here you say the earth might be connected to a ground spike to return current; but in the other video you say please mistakenly believe the earth spike is to provide a ground earth, which is actually to dissipate static and lightening strike. Could you perhaps clarify?
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hmm, here I have a ground pin going into the concrete (I asume the concrete metal mesh is connected to earth pin(s) into the ground, one connected to neutral, and I have 2 earth fault switches where it goes into. so basically ground is connected to everything. (I live in the EU, The Netherlands)
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It may be indicative of the relative power usage in the US vs UK that the main fuse in the UK is typically 100a, which at 220 v allows for 22000 watts of power, whereas, in the US, a 400a panel at 110v or 44000 watts might seriously be a candidate for an upgrade to a higher amperage panel.
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Excellent video, especially liked the animation showing how the RCD detects ground faults.
While I knew that the RCD detects a difference between the active and neutral', I struggled visualising exactly how it works.
But now, thanks to you, it's very clear!
Thank you!

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is this a residential split-phase system used in the UK? Or is this a simplified three-phase industrial panel? Looks different (but similar principles) to anything I've seen in any house, but looks similar (in appearance only) to stuff I see at work in industrial/institutional facility.
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Hey, can you make a video tell that how important is the breaker? There is many house doesn't care the breaker, many even just nail a copper rod and weld into the breaker arm to keep the breaker not to break. (like my friends. I hope you make a video to tell how important is breaker.
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Please how can I make only the electric bulbs in my house count on the current measuring meter.
More so, my meter always trip off the I plug in water heater and microwave together.
Please I'll need an explan on how to go.
Thanks a million

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I noticed the horizontal configuration of the electrical panel. Curious about this I did an actual photo image search for such panels in the UK and discovered this to be accurate. Any reason for this design spec? I am in the US so this was new to me.
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Having passed my electrical qualification over 30 years ago I wish I could go back and show myself this video. Things would have been easier
Great video once again. I really love the way you put things across in a simple manner.

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Clear and concise explanation of UK power distribution.
The phase to neutral ERROR will trip the circuit. The BIG QUESTION is if the earth
conductor is ONLY CONNECTED to earth, will it TRULY trip the circuit?
Thank you.

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In NZ and Australia the main supply neutral is never interrupted. Supply Neutral is hard wired to main earth. This is called the MEN point or multiple earth neutral. Ring subcircuits are also illegal here. Mark the spark.
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Great video. The one thing that I think could have been a little bit clearer is the point that the reason we have MCBs is to protect the wiring in the house from being overloaded, causing heating and potential fire.
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if you have a hot and a neutral coming into the top main breaker for the unit how the heck does someone get dual voltage for things like ac/dryers etc. by the way youre explaining it, they only have 120 volts coming in
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Interesting to see how residential panels work in different countries.
Here in the Netherlands its required to use breakers with both phase and neutral, also 3 phase connections are more common.

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Sir, can you explain in detail the operation of main switch, rcd, & mcb? How & when the overload & electromagnetic works? And how they affected by direct & indirect lightning strike? Thank you.
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Why does the UK only use two RCDs? Don't you want more granular protection so you know which circuit actually caused the fault? Also, if you cause a fault and half your house loses electricity
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thank you sooo much for teaching me everything i know, i really appreciate it. you have given me the power to scare the st out of my brother, he has never annoyed me again. but yeah thanks.
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This is really good content. I learn lot of from this video. We call this consumer unit MDB board In Bangladesh.
Thanks for your video. And give more and more interesting video

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The main fuse is there to mainly limit how much power you can draw from the power network not because it's protecting your property tho it does protect the circuit up to the fuses.
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As a person with no electrical knowledge, but someone who thinks has to update their consumer unit ( old & wrong position & possibly to add an EV charging. This is interesting.
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This may be a long shot, but could this same illustration be done with a 3 phase consumer unit? as I never understand that. that would be of masssssive value! Thank you
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In Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands it is rare to see the neutral come together before the MCB and RCD I would say never. They always go through the MCB
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Can I have Earthing terminal connected to Ground Rod and Service Head's Neutral at the same time? Is there any drawback or potential danger?
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Are most homes in Europe only rated for 100 A service? That seems a little low for today, especially since in the US we have 200A service.
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Do fuseboards need to be ventilated or can they be fitted in rooms that have a container ambient temperature of around 27-30 degrees?
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