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zakruti.com » Hunting and fishing » The Wooded Beardsman
Hand Drill Friction Fire - From Agony to Ember (Abriged Version)

Hand Drill Friction Fire - From Agony to Ember (Abriged Version)

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
This is much SHORTER version of my journey through the process of producing an ember from the hand drill. Big thanks for boggycreekbeast who gave me a lot of personal tips and advice and even produced a custom video to help. It wasn't long after that I was able to achieve success: I hope this video serves other beginnings and showcases just how difficult this process really is and how much effort is truly required in order to be successful with this method. While it is nice to see other people succeed, they do not show the trial and error process and often make it look far too easy. Some things I learned: 1. Choose ideal materials (soft dry wood - poplar works well and I didn't get cedar to work, but it should, mullein in good condition that is not too brittle. Material that is questionable probably won't work. 2. Use lots of down pressure. Put your set up on a bath scale and push down until you get 10-20 lbs of down force. You need a lot of pressure. 3. If you aren't getting smoke within 20-40 seconds, you aren't doing it right. 4. Use honey or pine sap to get enough grip so you can apply a lot of pressure. 5. Build up slowly and don't wreck your hands. Try 2-3 attempts per day and watch for blisters. If you get sufficient hot spots on your hands, stop for the day and try again later. You are unlikely to get an ember on your first try and if you go too long, you'll set yourself back. It takes a long time to build up calluses in the right places. 6. Lean over the hand drill and don't just use your arms. You may experiment with kneeling or even putting the the set up on a table. This can often produce more down pressure. Down pressure needs to be balanced with speed. You can use a lot of speed or a lot of pressure, or both, but they will work equally to produce the heat from friction. Find your balance by watching the results you're getting. 7. Having the right kind of dust is key. You don't want white powder (not enough pressure, it should be dark, but not a fine powder. The type of wood and the condition it is maters. Try lots of different woods if it's not working correctly. 8. A polished mullein tip is not good - means you are not pushing down hard enough. Clean the tip up and get a good deep sound rather than a squeaking sound. You will learn to hear the difference. 9. Once you get a good pile of dust, hammer it out. It should only take about 20-30 seconds until the dusk ignites. If it doesn't, something is wrong. 10. After you think you have a good ember, keep the spindle down in the hearth board and watch for smoke coming from the ember by itself. If it's not smoking on it's own, hit it again with more friction to get it to temperature
Date: 2021-05-17

Comments and reviews: 7


Great determination! It was cool to see your form slightly improve more and more with each failure. I've gone through a similar process myself and found that mullein is a real pain in the ass for hand drill because the -hot spot- is close to the center of the pit and it's difficult to get that final push to transfer the heat all the way to the dust pile to ignite the coal. I've had MUCH more success with goldenrod because the -hot spot- is already on the outside of the base, so the final push to ignite the coal is much much easier. I'd recommend it if you can find some in your area. We have tons where I'm at in the Midwest and there's lots of it dead standing in large groups right now. I'd love to see you give it a go with goldenrod to see how you compare the two! ;)
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Ok 2 things I could see, 1. the not should face you. 2. triy to use the whole hand, that will make your strokes longer, you should have smoke after thee strokes. Oh ja the bord should be hard as a rock. And the whole must be closer to the edge of the bord, your dust can not breath. If you start to hear that itshy nois, start to sharpen your spindel so it runs better. And pleace cleen the spindel from bark, you can see that strings of the bark are skratshing your dust away, no good.
Ps. Good job Brother, how are your hands? ;) some people make it look so easy, not me and and you, but you are the kind of not giving up, as tha amount of drill dust really showed
your Stamm

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Awesome work. I had a hard time taking a break at first. lol after beating the hell out of my hands a few times it became easier.
Mullien is by far my favorite spindle. it has worked well on cedar, hemlock, willow and balsom fir. I never had much luck with the seated position. one I changed to a kneeling position my success jumped. I just found it easier to control the down pressure. It also allows you to engage less muscles all you have to do is lean forward instead of pushing down. Saves energy for those stubborn coals.
good to see you in action brother. congrats

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Excellent work my friend I have yet to get a hand drill fire going. I would recommend making the board a bit thinner so you don't have to build up as much dust. I've learned this by making many bow drill fires. Now you have inspired me to try the hand drill. The price you pay for primitive fire. Damn those hands look beat my friend. Now that's how it's done! On to the next video.
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I haven-t tried this method or the bow drill but I think the bow drill looks a lot easier. It-s Kaina on my -bucket list- as silly as it sounds to create a friction fire with the bow drill. I may try it thus weekend.
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This looks arduous. I lack the ability to move my legs into that position, the patience & determination you obviously have & at 75 enough time left in my life. Congradulations, Brian nearing 76
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you rock! I've tried Mullen on yucca, Mullen on cedar. no coal. my hands get sore and blistered. I can do a bow drill fire, but need to work more on this. :-)
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