Chevy Traverse - Lots Of Lights On & Difficult To Accelerate
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Date: 2024-09-27
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Comments and reviews: 20
jussikuusela7345
Tensome years back I had a 1998 Mondeo that would lose power intermittently, and lose more power if you treaded on the accelerator. if you took the foot off the pedal and let the speed drop, it would resume normal operation. And of course it virtually never did this when troubleshooting. There were theories from throttle position sensor to MAF. Then on a particularly slippery day I noticed that when braking on mirror-clear ice the ABS would intermittently start pulsing instead of making a constant racket with fairly constant pedal force, and I had previously noticed that it would intermittently activate on grippy surfaces with little pedal force as well. But again, of course nothing like that happened when the seller or a mechanic tried to troubleshoot it. I have come to think that it probably had a problem with one or more wheel speed sensors, but all that would be masked by traction control kicking in - strangely the traction control indicator never went on, but my new hypothesis is that the car had this problem and instead of fixing the sensors, someone removed the light from the cluster. I never paid attention to whether or not it lit when fumbling with they key.
I know about a case where a seller rewired the ABS indicator light from the oil pressure light to mask that it never truly went off. The new owner never got into any trouble with it and only found out when an inspector went in to check for codes and said there is a constant fault on the ABS, yet the light stays off after starting the engine - and that it always goes in sync with the oil light.
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Tensome years back I had a 1998 Mondeo that would lose power intermittently, and lose more power if you treaded on the accelerator. if you took the foot off the pedal and let the speed drop, it would resume normal operation. And of course it virtually never did this when troubleshooting. There were theories from throttle position sensor to MAF. Then on a particularly slippery day I noticed that when braking on mirror-clear ice the ABS would intermittently start pulsing instead of making a constant racket with fairly constant pedal force, and I had previously noticed that it would intermittently activate on grippy surfaces with little pedal force as well. But again, of course nothing like that happened when the seller or a mechanic tried to troubleshoot it. I have come to think that it probably had a problem with one or more wheel speed sensors, but all that would be masked by traction control kicking in - strangely the traction control indicator never went on, but my new hypothesis is that the car had this problem and instead of fixing the sensors, someone removed the light from the cluster. I never paid attention to whether or not it lit when fumbling with they key.
I know about a case where a seller rewired the ABS indicator light from the oil pressure light to mask that it never truly went off. The new owner never got into any trouble with it and only found out when an inspector went in to check for codes and said there is a constant fault on the ABS, yet the light stays off after starting the engine - and that it always goes in sync with the oil light.
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patarmitage2250
Hello fellow SMA fans. I wonder if I can ask some advice.
I have a 2016 Ford Explorer Awd.
It has 180k (112ish miles)
I’m in Alberta and the car is in Mint condition no rust and it runs like new.
The problem is when.
The problem is, while backing into the garage or I reverse and turn right. The front right wheel locks up. Is it the PTU I’m told it could be the rear end (I’m told it could be the viscous coupler in the rear or both) I took out the drive shaft for a day and it seems relatively better. But not 100%. I do hear a random clicking noise in the front end.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello fellow SMA fans. I wonder if I can ask some advice.
I have a 2016 Ford Explorer Awd.
It has 180k (112ish miles)
I’m in Alberta and the car is in Mint condition no rust and it runs like new.
The problem is when.
The problem is, while backing into the garage or I reverse and turn right. The front right wheel locks up. Is it the PTU I’m told it could be the rear end (I’m told it could be the viscous coupler in the rear or both) I took out the drive shaft for a day and it seems relatively better. But not 100%. I do hear a random clicking noise in the front end.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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gregorythomas333
I bring it back home and said now it's a job for SMA. Now it's your problem. have a good day
It really sucks that they build these things in a way requiring you to purchase, remove & install an entire wheel bearing just to fix the magnet problem.
What about making the magnet a two piece snap-in part that you can easily change out Nope. that won't let them sell high priced parts that you don't need.
Hope we get to see the Subaru undercarriage carnage in an upcoming video soon : )
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I bring it back home and said now it's a job for SMA. Now it's your problem. have a good day
It really sucks that they build these things in a way requiring you to purchase, remove & install an entire wheel bearing just to fix the magnet problem.
What about making the magnet a two piece snap-in part that you can easily change out Nope. that won't let them sell high priced parts that you don't need.
Hope we get to see the Subaru undercarriage carnage in an upcoming video soon : )
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ShannonCoffey-l6b
I hope you are used to the train whistle. That whistle reminds me of my boyhood. When I grew up in the 50's, my home was 4 doors from a railroad yard where the locomotive would sort the box cars before sending a group of them to their destination. Each time the locomotive crossed the street by law they had to blow the whistle. Well in the summer we did not have air conditioning and they did the sorting at night so as not to hinder car traffic. I don't miss that locomotive whistle any.
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I hope you are used to the train whistle. That whistle reminds me of my boyhood. When I grew up in the 50's, my home was 4 doors from a railroad yard where the locomotive would sort the box cars before sending a group of them to their destination. Each time the locomotive crossed the street by law they had to blow the whistle. Well in the summer we did not have air conditioning and they did the sorting at night so as not to hinder car traffic. I don't miss that locomotive whistle any.
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andrewg6238
Wow, Eric! I passed on an uninspected trade in for an unbelievable price about six weeks ago-15 GMC Acadia/EXACT symptoms as that. Man, if I had a Delorean, I’d go back in time, buy it, fix it, and drive around with a huge eating grin on my face. Cuz if you just did it, I could a done it if I knew how minor the problem was! Next timeThanks for bringing us along again, you are truly a blessing to all of us out here in cheap guy diy land!
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Wow, Eric! I passed on an uninspected trade in for an unbelievable price about six weeks ago-15 GMC Acadia/EXACT symptoms as that. Man, if I had a Delorean, I’d go back in time, buy it, fix it, and drive around with a huge eating grin on my face. Cuz if you just did it, I could a done it if I knew how minor the problem was! Next timeThanks for bringing us along again, you are truly a blessing to all of us out here in cheap guy diy land!
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annettesurfer
I never thought of using Fluid Film on the knuckle or to prevent the dissimilar metal corrosion that happens between the aluminum wheel and hub. I've always applied a very thin film of anti-seize but now I'm wondering if one is better than the other. Sometimes removing those hubs can be quite difficult. I'm a bit concerned about the aluminum corrosion stuff suspended in the air so I use a fan to direct it away.
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I never thought of using Fluid Film on the knuckle or to prevent the dissimilar metal corrosion that happens between the aluminum wheel and hub. I've always applied a very thin film of anti-seize but now I'm wondering if one is better than the other. Sometimes removing those hubs can be quite difficult. I'm a bit concerned about the aluminum corrosion stuff suspended in the air so I use a fan to direct it away.
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aku2dimensional
That's kind of similar to what was wrong with my Chevrolet. I had a bad wheel bearing and I believe it caused my ST, ABS, etc. to lose comms to the transmission or throttle sensor, the car revved up to redline on its own and hesitated to calm down, spitting Chevy Thunder all over the road. I probably shouldn't have ignored a bad bearing but I needed some funds to have it repaired.
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That's kind of similar to what was wrong with my Chevrolet. I had a bad wheel bearing and I believe it caused my ST, ABS, etc. to lose comms to the transmission or throttle sensor, the car revved up to redline on its own and hesitated to calm down, spitting Chevy Thunder all over the road. I probably shouldn't have ignored a bad bearing but I needed some funds to have it repaired.
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autorepair
My work van is a GMC Savana and I had a wheel speed sensor go out on me on the highway. It felt like a misfire. Bucking, flashing warning lights, carrying on. Then it turned off traction control and ABS but still acted up until I got to my next delivery. I turned it off and back on again and it drove normal, just with all the lights and warnings.
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My work van is a GMC Savana and I had a wheel speed sensor go out on me on the highway. It felt like a misfire. Bucking, flashing warning lights, carrying on. Then it turned off traction control and ABS but still acted up until I got to my next delivery. I turned it off and back on again and it drove normal, just with all the lights and warnings.
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2nickles647
Typical, they don't tell you the wheel bearing is toast.
They will go to the parts store get it scanned and buy a sensor.
Then they will return it and say it's broken and want a new one.
Then a few days later the wheel bearing is finally toasted, plus the brake pads and rotors and maybe ate the CV shaft too
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Typical, they don't tell you the wheel bearing is toast.
They will go to the parts store get it scanned and buy a sensor.
Then they will return it and say it's broken and want a new one.
Then a few days later the wheel bearing is finally toasted, plus the brake pads and rotors and maybe ate the CV shaft too
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carlfreeman2524
i had a bmw in my shop with the same issue with poor running and brake judder with no lights on dash, i found on live data that both rear speed sensors were dropping out intermitently. changed both of them and car ran like new. found out that the abs /traction control also cuts the engine hence the poor running.
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i had a bmw in my shop with the same issue with poor running and brake judder with no lights on dash, i found on live data that both rear speed sensors were dropping out intermitently. changed both of them and car ran like new. found out that the abs /traction control also cuts the engine hence the poor running.
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JTIZZO
I think Mrs Tizzo and I told you about the P0650 in my Tahoe Hybrid. The one problem I never fixed. It still haunts me that I never knew what caused the MIL to not work. Cluster good. LED good. Fuses good. Had to be a broken wire somewhere below the high voltage box. Or the computer. I wish I knew the answer.
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I think Mrs Tizzo and I told you about the P0650 in my Tahoe Hybrid. The one problem I never fixed. It still haunts me that I never knew what caused the MIL to not work. Cluster good. LED good. Fuses good. Had to be a broken wire somewhere below the high voltage box. Or the computer. I wish I knew the answer.
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Buc_Stops_Here
I own a 2013 Subaru Legacy of my own. Had to replace both control arms and front struts last year with 130, 000 miles on it. Also had to replace the rear wheel bearings as well. Since then no more problems. It is a nice, reliable car I plan to keep for a few more years and hope to reach 200, 000 on it.
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I own a 2013 Subaru Legacy of my own. Had to replace both control arms and front struts last year with 130, 000 miles on it. Also had to replace the rear wheel bearings as well. Since then no more problems. It is a nice, reliable car I plan to keep for a few more years and hope to reach 200, 000 on it.
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DominicChristadore
Mr. O I’ve got a funny statement for you resolution or revolution resolution you resolve a problem revolution you could take over a country like we did back in 1776 just messing with you. Missed all your great thought. I’d throw that in just to be funny lol love your stuff.
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Mr. O I’ve got a funny statement for you resolution or revolution resolution you resolve a problem revolution you could take over a country like we did back in 1776 just messing with you. Missed all your great thought. I’d throw that in just to be funny lol love your stuff.
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MrWorldasmaya
It was at this moment that Eric O. realized Remember folks, if I can do it, you can do it was overly optimistic (on a good day) and so he left it from the ending. I await future content that ends with Remember folks, if I can do it, well, that doesn't mean you can do it. :)
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It was at this moment that Eric O. realized Remember folks, if I can do it, you can do it was overly optimistic (on a good day) and so he left it from the ending. I await future content that ends with Remember folks, if I can do it, well, that doesn't mean you can do it. :)
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mikechiodetti4482
Thank you for this video. A brand new shiny wheel bearing/ABS magnet/ 5 lugnut assembly. Cool!
That Lisle tool did a great job also.
Are you gonna film the MIL light repair
I hope you make a film of the Subaru 's subframe removal/replacement.
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Thank you for this video. A brand new shiny wheel bearing/ABS magnet/ 5 lugnut assembly. Cool!
That Lisle tool did a great job also.
Are you gonna film the MIL light repair
I hope you make a film of the Subaru 's subframe removal/replacement.
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ranger178
amazing to me how many relatively new cars you have up there are falling apart I have none of these problems with cars that are mostly older must be the dirt roads and salt up there you need drive through underbody car washes to get all that salt and dirt off
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amazing to me how many relatively new cars you have up there are falling apart I have none of these problems with cars that are mostly older must be the dirt roads and salt up there you need drive through underbody car washes to get all that salt and dirt off
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dddevildogg
Chevy Thunder, that's the sound of your fist banging on the desk as you look over the repair bills your New Chevy has accumulated. And You can sub in ANY American big three
car makers, because they all make cars and trucks with problem$
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Chevy Thunder, that's the sound of your fist banging on the desk as you look over the repair bills your New Chevy has accumulated. And You can sub in ANY American big three
car makers, because they all make cars and trucks with problem$
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smarthome2660
Incase you didn't know why, when Eric said it's always the right side that goes first. because this is New York, and with winter comes salting of roads. The salt accumulates on the gutter (right) side and rots out that side first.
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Incase you didn't know why, when Eric said it's always the right side that goes first. because this is New York, and with winter comes salting of roads. The salt accumulates on the gutter (right) side and rots out that side first.
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malware_in_tn9008
The sounds from you cleaning out the hub hole always make me cringe like I’m at the dentist when they fire up the drill or the ultrasonic cleaner. But it was nice to hear from your pet lamb again. It’s been a while.
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The sounds from you cleaning out the hub hole always make me cringe like I’m at the dentist when they fire up the drill or the ultrasonic cleaner. But it was nice to hear from your pet lamb again. It’s been a while.
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jdjd0711
Why is it the passenger side bearing fails first Theory around here is ths passenger side is the shoulder side of the road so gets dropped off the edge occasionally and is rougher than the near to the center of the road
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Why is it the passenger side bearing fails first Theory around here is ths passenger side is the shoulder side of the road so gets dropped off the edge occasionally and is rougher than the near to the center of the road
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