Final Diagnosis: 2010 Hyundai Accent No Start After Starter & O2 Replacement
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Date: 2025-12-12
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Comments and reviews: 20
ifixitall-24-7
quick! on that radiator cap, get a sharpie and neatly write in the center white area GULF. i watched the other vid and saw that cap and told the wife thats what i would do if that car was in my garage. New sub here, long time watcher. I laughed a while back when you were calling fuse links old school. Im a strictly OBD1 guy myself, trace back in time and you will find the OBD1 days were much better all the way around. just have my first lagit failure on my 5. 0L 1987 (timing chain) with 379k miles on the clock. its a 20th anniversary mercury cougar daily driver. my 29yr old son drives an 88 Tbird with a stroked 331 5. 0L, cant kill our push rod motors.
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quick! on that radiator cap, get a sharpie and neatly write in the center white area GULF. i watched the other vid and saw that cap and told the wife thats what i would do if that car was in my garage. New sub here, long time watcher. I laughed a while back when you were calling fuse links old school. Im a strictly OBD1 guy myself, trace back in time and you will find the OBD1 days were much better all the way around. just have my first lagit failure on my 5. 0L 1987 (timing chain) with 379k miles on the clock. its a 20th anniversary mercury cougar daily driver. my 29yr old son drives an 88 Tbird with a stroked 331 5. 0L, cant kill our push rod motors.
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najieid8407
Hi Eric, it was more interesting for you to know the before and after changing the crank sensor. I wished that you have taken a sample of the signal with the after market sensor prior the swap versus the signal of the OEM sensor. I know for fact, that Hyundai and Kia are very specific when it comes to sensors and actuators as to be original otherwise you will end up with unknown and bizarre issues. These sensors are engineered with customized and proprietary requirements and it is highly unlikely to find equivalent with 100 % compatibility. I have owned so far 2 Kia cars and have experienced a lot with them.
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Hi Eric, it was more interesting for you to know the before and after changing the crank sensor. I wished that you have taken a sample of the signal with the after market sensor prior the swap versus the signal of the OEM sensor. I know for fact, that Hyundai and Kia are very specific when it comes to sensors and actuators as to be original otherwise you will end up with unknown and bizarre issues. These sensors are engineered with customized and proprietary requirements and it is highly unlikely to find equivalent with 100 % compatibility. I have owned so far 2 Kia cars and have experienced a lot with them.
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jimb4090
Had a 2002 Altima that, if you didnt immediately turn the key hard to the stop it would confuse the ECU and then would not start. Every time. But if the key went hard to the stop it would always start. Every time. Nissan's solution was to hold the accelerator to the floor and crank. and crank. and crank. Eventually the ECU would see the crank or cam sensor and fire a cylinder then a few seconds later another would join in and finally all of them were firing. And it wasn't a faulty sensor either. This would take over a minute of cranking. That poor starter's life was severely reduced every time this happened.
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Had a 2002 Altima that, if you didnt immediately turn the key hard to the stop it would confuse the ECU and then would not start. Every time. But if the key went hard to the stop it would always start. Every time. Nissan's solution was to hold the accelerator to the floor and crank. and crank. and crank. Eventually the ECU would see the crank or cam sensor and fire a cylinder then a few seconds later another would join in and finally all of them were firing. And it wasn't a faulty sensor either. This would take over a minute of cranking. That poor starter's life was severely reduced every time this happened.
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Discobubba
Almost commented in the last video that the Crank Sensor is a COMMON issue with these. My own had no symptoms or codes, just randomly wouldn't start one day in warm weather. Used to frequent hyundai-forums and checked there for what to try. Similar to Identifix it was a guess to throw in a new OEM sensor from RockAuto (thankfully RA has a good deal of Hyundai OEM parts for much less than dealerships) and it was a cheap fix. No rust jacking, made sure to not double O-Ring on the new one, and has since been good. Really impressive that Eric was able to figure this out so quickly.
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Almost commented in the last video that the Crank Sensor is a COMMON issue with these. My own had no symptoms or codes, just randomly wouldn't start one day in warm weather. Used to frequent hyundai-forums and checked there for what to try. Similar to Identifix it was a guess to throw in a new OEM sensor from RockAuto (thankfully RA has a good deal of Hyundai OEM parts for much less than dealerships) and it was a cheap fix. No rust jacking, made sure to not double O-Ring on the new one, and has since been good. Really impressive that Eric was able to figure this out so quickly.
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johnwesner3935
About five years ago I bought a 02 S10, 4. 3 V6. Had a slight tick. Ran good though and looked like it had been taken care of. While doing a service on it I crawled under listening for the tick. I touched the crank position sensor and the tick went away. Pulled it out and it looked a little battle worn so I picked-up a new one. When I opened the box on the new one I found the shims in the box. Hmmm I made a couple shims, stuck the old one back in and called it done. No tick and running great after five years.
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About five years ago I bought a 02 S10, 4. 3 V6. Had a slight tick. Ran good though and looked like it had been taken care of. While doing a service on it I crawled under listening for the tick. I touched the crank position sensor and the tick went away. Pulled it out and it looked a little battle worn so I picked-up a new one. When I opened the box on the new one I found the shims in the box. Hmmm I made a couple shims, stuck the old one back in and called it done. No tick and running great after five years.
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jamesmelton7637
How I wish I'd found a good mechanic for my 2000 Volvo. It would still be my daily driver today. But it seemed like mechanic after mechanic wanted a great deal of money to do very little work on it. It always felt like 1. they didn't want to see me come back and 2. they didn't know much about how Volvos worked. Well I gave in and bought a Camry and yes it has run reliably since I got it, so maybe Toyota just does a better job of engineering but I still miss that Volvo.
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How I wish I'd found a good mechanic for my 2000 Volvo. It would still be my daily driver today. But it seemed like mechanic after mechanic wanted a great deal of money to do very little work on it. It always felt like 1. they didn't want to see me come back and 2. they didn't know much about how Volvos worked. Well I gave in and bought a Camry and yes it has run reliably since I got it, so maybe Toyota just does a better job of engineering but I still miss that Volvo.
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Mike-q2w4j
In your Profession, you may want to ditch the metal wedding ring for a silicone rubber one. In my decades as a coal mine mechanic - welder I saw 2 men loose a finger to metal wedding bands. One got the ring between 24 volt DC power and a ground, ring instantly turned molten and destroyed his finger. Second was a heavy mining part fell on his hand and crushed the ring. By the time we got it cut off him his finger was dead from loss of blood flow. Just think about it.
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In your Profession, you may want to ditch the metal wedding ring for a silicone rubber one. In my decades as a coal mine mechanic - welder I saw 2 men loose a finger to metal wedding bands. One got the ring between 24 volt DC power and a ground, ring instantly turned molten and destroyed his finger. Second was a heavy mining part fell on his hand and crushed the ring. By the time we got it cut off him his finger was dead from loss of blood flow. Just think about it.
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EddieTheGrouch
When you spotted the rust jacking I recalled all the ABS sensors in my life that never threw a code. I suspect the ECM is only checking a static resistance range for the sensor rather than generated voltage range. With that said, if only the old OEM sensor triggered the range code than I would still suspect it as going out of spec and failing.
I guess we'll have to keep an eye out for a follow-up: )
Happy Holidaze to you and your family.
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When you spotted the rust jacking I recalled all the ABS sensors in my life that never threw a code. I suspect the ECM is only checking a static resistance range for the sensor rather than generated voltage range. With that said, if only the old OEM sensor triggered the range code than I would still suspect it as going out of spec and failing.
I guess we'll have to keep an eye out for a follow-up: )
Happy Holidaze to you and your family.
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orbitalair2103
My daughters 2016 corolla would get into modes where it wouldnt start. replaced starter, work for a while, then do the same. then replaced relay, worked for another year. replaced relay again, but still wouldnt start, batt was at 12. 5v but it was only a 1yo battery. Put the desulphate charger on it, and once back to 12. 7 it would start. modern electronics have really screwed up cars these days.
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My daughters 2016 corolla would get into modes where it wouldnt start. replaced starter, work for a while, then do the same. then replaced relay, worked for another year. replaced relay again, but still wouldnt start, batt was at 12. 5v but it was only a 1yo battery. Put the desulphate charger on it, and once back to 12. 7 it would start. modern electronics have really screwed up cars these days.
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greglammers9905
My sons 2009 Honda accord with the 4cyl. Had a similar issue. He replaced the starter with an aftermarket starter and about a month later got a misfire code and a crank/cam correlation code. Replaced crank sensor with Oem Honda sensor. Fixed it for about a month. Then same codes. I talked with a buddy that’s a Honda tech. We replaced the starter with a oem Honda, fixed it. That was over a year ago.
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My sons 2009 Honda accord with the 4cyl. Had a similar issue. He replaced the starter with an aftermarket starter and about a month later got a misfire code and a crank/cam correlation code. Replaced crank sensor with Oem Honda sensor. Fixed it for about a month. Then same codes. I talked with a buddy that’s a Honda tech. We replaced the starter with a oem Honda, fixed it. That was over a year ago.
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jasonsmith3726
I’m having the same type of issue right now with my Honda pilot. I have been tracking and repairing sections of wire harness for weeks where connectors corroded or burnt. I did a full rebuild except for the block and while it was sitting water was getting into my fuse box from bad seals around the windshield and cowl. I know the yaw rate sensor causes alot of weird crap like that.
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I’m having the same type of issue right now with my Honda pilot. I have been tracking and repairing sections of wire harness for weeks where connectors corroded or burnt. I did a full rebuild except for the block and while it was sitting water was getting into my fuse box from bad seals around the windshield and cowl. I know the yaw rate sensor causes alot of weird crap like that.
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autorepair
This port injected 1. 6 was replaced just a few years later in 2012 by the direct injected Gamma 1. 6L that was mostly a much better engine. Short of typical DI carbon on the valves the Gamma 1. 6 was fairly bulletproof and made way more power and torque than this 2010 POS motor. Hyundai and Kia have mostly steadily upped their game minus the horrible 2. 4 liter Theta II issues.
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This port injected 1. 6 was replaced just a few years later in 2012 by the direct injected Gamma 1. 6L that was mostly a much better engine. Short of typical DI carbon on the valves the Gamma 1. 6 was fairly bulletproof and made way more power and torque than this 2010 POS motor. Hyundai and Kia have mostly steadily upped their game minus the horrible 2. 4 liter Theta II issues.
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garywalstrom2603
My accent (2009) went 290, 000 miles. Sold it to a nephew. Still running, over 300, 000 now. Had trouble with number 3 coil, and leaky valve cover gasket. No other major problems. I believe coil problems are frequent on that engine. Change oil every 3 to 4 thousand miles and use quality oil. Many accents have over 300k in Minnesota.
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My accent (2009) went 290, 000 miles. Sold it to a nephew. Still running, over 300, 000 now. Had trouble with number 3 coil, and leaky valve cover gasket. No other major problems. I believe coil problems are frequent on that engine. Change oil every 3 to 4 thousand miles and use quality oil. Many accents have over 300k in Minnesota.
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BigBoxDodge2020
I thought that was pretty humorous when you said 'With My Limited Knowledge'. Your knowledge far exceeds MOST of the general population of auto mechanics. I've fixed all of my own stuff throughout my life. So I have good knowledge of my stuff, but I don't have knowledge of lots of stuff like you do. That's why I watch every episode!
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I thought that was pretty humorous when you said 'With My Limited Knowledge'. Your knowledge far exceeds MOST of the general population of auto mechanics. I've fixed all of my own stuff throughout my life. So I have good knowledge of my stuff, but I don't have knowledge of lots of stuff like you do. That's why I watch every episode!
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joemehere1151
I'm not sure that the #1 Ox Sensor was good originally so changing it may have solved part of the problem. Maybe that threw the first curve ball, then double seal and rust on the crank positioning sensor was intermittent adding another problem. 2 or 3 issues is very hard to diagnose and even harder to fix. I, however, am impressed.
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I'm not sure that the #1 Ox Sensor was good originally so changing it may have solved part of the problem. Maybe that threw the first curve ball, then double seal and rust on the crank positioning sensor was intermittent adding another problem. 2 or 3 issues is very hard to diagnose and even harder to fix. I, however, am impressed.
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xerxes456
No, start with a stick shift and a two-wire crank sensor. I test it by letting it go downhill, and the car starts because of higher engine RPM. That is, if it is a low-amplitude problem. It probably works with tow starts too. Great videos as always. In Europe, most cars used to be stick shift, not like the USA with Automatic.
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No, start with a stick shift and a two-wire crank sensor. I test it by letting it go downhill, and the car starts because of higher engine RPM. That is, if it is a low-amplitude problem. It probably works with tow starts too. Great videos as always. In Europe, most cars used to be stick shift, not like the USA with Automatic.
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thespaceman6283
I got a 2009 Kia Sorento brand new for $20K. Fantastic vehicle. Brakes, rotors, shocks, struts & tires at 70k, 1st tune up at 105k. 17 full synthetic oil changes and the space in the back for a nap. Now my kid is closing in on 200k. Estimated total cost maintenance and repairs in 2016 dollars just about $10k all in.
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I got a 2009 Kia Sorento brand new for $20K. Fantastic vehicle. Brakes, rotors, shocks, struts & tires at 70k, 1st tune up at 105k. 17 full synthetic oil changes and the space in the back for a nap. Now my kid is closing in on 200k. Estimated total cost maintenance and repairs in 2016 dollars just about $10k all in.
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KO-pk7df
Iv'e learned a lot from yoou over the years!
Since the days of working on my 78 280Z and 83 Firebird I have thought minimum 200RPM cranking for everything Fuel Injection etc to turn everything on to fire up!
I Thought I spotted the cranking 177 RPM when you tested so it must have been on the ragged edege.
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Iv'e learned a lot from yoou over the years!
Since the days of working on my 78 280Z and 83 Firebird I have thought minimum 200RPM cranking for everything Fuel Injection etc to turn everything on to fire up!
I Thought I spotted the cranking 177 RPM when you tested so it must have been on the ragged edege.
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wysetech2000
I said to myself from the beginning to change the crank sensor. I have seen so many different scenarios on those mechanical assholes, the crank sensor was the first thing I changed after testing everything. We used to stock them. 98% of the time I was right. Now that I am retired, I just watch and smile.
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I said to myself from the beginning to change the crank sensor. I have seen so many different scenarios on those mechanical assholes, the crank sensor was the first thing I changed after testing everything. We used to stock them. 98% of the time I was right. Now that I am retired, I just watch and smile.
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rbailey225
I'm envious Mr O. I know winter is a PITA for you guys up north but 87 degrees in December is straight depressing. Dec. and Jan. is really the only break from the heat here in the sunny Southern California desert. One of the few places that actually look forward to winter and it feels like late spring.
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I'm envious Mr O. I know winter is a PITA for you guys up north but 87 degrees in December is straight depressing. Dec. and Jan. is really the only break from the heat here in the sunny Southern California desert. One of the few places that actually look forward to winter and it feels like late spring.
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