This Subaru Will Steer You Into On Coming Traffic!
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Date: 2024-10-08
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Comments and reviews: 20
adamn7516
Hi Eric, I have a question. My 2004 CRV has been giving me issues with the alternator. Constantly runs at excessively low voltage when dual charge system switches the alternator to low output mode. Basically when the alternators is in a high output mode the car shows the voltage at about 13. 9 to 14. 2. When the charging system kicks the alternator into its low output mode the voltage drops to an average of between 11. 6 and 11. 8 rather than the expected 12. 5ish. I monitor the cars voltage in real time with an in car voltmeter connected directly to the battery.
With the headlights on things act even weirder as not only will charging system put the alternator into a low output mode which surprised me since I thought the alternator runs permanently in high output mode when headlights are on, but more concerning is the low voltage will get very erratic when at idle. It will bounce around like crazy quickly fluctuating from 11 to 13v and the battery light will sometimes begin to start flickering. Can even feel the idle start to become unstable.
I have checked all the grounds. I even pulled the alternator to check both its connections and both connectors are tight and free of any corrosion. Advance Auto and Autozone both did a battery/charging system test and it passes. Alternator is a two year old Denso rebuilt. Also I replaced the ELD with a new one myself about 2 months ago and the battery 3 month old ago with a Diehard Gold which I replaced because I thought the problem might be battery related since the battery was 5 years old.
And thru all these issues I have never once had a CEL light. Is it possible that the alternator is still bad even though it tests fine and if so why does it still pass the tests Seems like its the regulator but then why is the voltage basically at a normal output 13. 9 to 14. 2 when the charging circuit has the alternator in a high output mode Can a bad regulator function normally when in high output mode become flaky when its in its low output mode Or am I barking up the wrong tree and this is an ECM issue
Hope you can shed some light on this for me because I am at my wits end with this thing.
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Hi Eric, I have a question. My 2004 CRV has been giving me issues with the alternator. Constantly runs at excessively low voltage when dual charge system switches the alternator to low output mode. Basically when the alternators is in a high output mode the car shows the voltage at about 13. 9 to 14. 2. When the charging system kicks the alternator into its low output mode the voltage drops to an average of between 11. 6 and 11. 8 rather than the expected 12. 5ish. I monitor the cars voltage in real time with an in car voltmeter connected directly to the battery.
With the headlights on things act even weirder as not only will charging system put the alternator into a low output mode which surprised me since I thought the alternator runs permanently in high output mode when headlights are on, but more concerning is the low voltage will get very erratic when at idle. It will bounce around like crazy quickly fluctuating from 11 to 13v and the battery light will sometimes begin to start flickering. Can even feel the idle start to become unstable.
I have checked all the grounds. I even pulled the alternator to check both its connections and both connectors are tight and free of any corrosion. Advance Auto and Autozone both did a battery/charging system test and it passes. Alternator is a two year old Denso rebuilt. Also I replaced the ELD with a new one myself about 2 months ago and the battery 3 month old ago with a Diehard Gold which I replaced because I thought the problem might be battery related since the battery was 5 years old.
And thru all these issues I have never once had a CEL light. Is it possible that the alternator is still bad even though it tests fine and if so why does it still pass the tests Seems like its the regulator but then why is the voltage basically at a normal output 13. 9 to 14. 2 when the charging circuit has the alternator in a high output mode Can a bad regulator function normally when in high output mode become flaky when its in its low output mode Or am I barking up the wrong tree and this is an ECM issue
Hope you can shed some light on this for me because I am at my wits end with this thing.
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autorepair
I have a BS Degree in Clinical Lab and was a Field Engineer for a Mfgr of Automated Clinical Laboratory analyzers, but have also been fixing cars or anything mechanical, electrical or electronic since I was 7 years old (I am 69 now. When dealing with issues where human life depends on what you do you have to:
1. Know how it works.
2. Identify the issue.
3 Identify the root cause of the issue using proper diagnostic procedures.
4 Identify other damage caused by the root cause failure.
5. Make a quality repair.
6. Verify that the repair resolved the issue!
Every SMA video i have ever watched (and I have watched many) proves that you use the above procedures! You are a fantastic and highly ethical Mechanic! Love the built in kitchen, family and pets in your shop also! While I have done everything to a car including rebuilding engines and 2 transmissions, and even swapped a frame, I am getting to a health condition where I can't do the really heavy stuff anymore. I would love to patronize SMA. Only problem is living on Long Island, I am 400 miles away from you!
PS- I share your lamentations re the People's Republic of New York.
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I have a BS Degree in Clinical Lab and was a Field Engineer for a Mfgr of Automated Clinical Laboratory analyzers, but have also been fixing cars or anything mechanical, electrical or electronic since I was 7 years old (I am 69 now. When dealing with issues where human life depends on what you do you have to:
1. Know how it works.
2. Identify the issue.
3 Identify the root cause of the issue using proper diagnostic procedures.
4 Identify other damage caused by the root cause failure.
5. Make a quality repair.
6. Verify that the repair resolved the issue!
Every SMA video i have ever watched (and I have watched many) proves that you use the above procedures! You are a fantastic and highly ethical Mechanic! Love the built in kitchen, family and pets in your shop also! While I have done everything to a car including rebuilding engines and 2 transmissions, and even swapped a frame, I am getting to a health condition where I can't do the really heavy stuff anymore. I would love to patronize SMA. Only problem is living on Long Island, I am 400 miles away from you!
PS- I share your lamentations re the People's Republic of New York.
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robpeters5204
I used to love working on cars in the early 80’s to mid 90’s when they started putting more electronic gizmos into them making them more like a Swiss watch without the precision sturdiness.
Personally, I don’t trust electronic steering PERIOD!
If I’m going to die, I’d rather it be up to me. lol!
Cars today are a cluster fk and I am happy to drive an older vehicle than to go out and buy. Anew or newer one only to have it spend more time in the shop than my driveway.
Keep up the good work my friend.
You look like the turbo charged squirrel in one of those animated movies
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I used to love working on cars in the early 80’s to mid 90’s when they started putting more electronic gizmos into them making them more like a Swiss watch without the precision sturdiness.
Personally, I don’t trust electronic steering PERIOD!
If I’m going to die, I’d rather it be up to me. lol!
Cars today are a cluster fk and I am happy to drive an older vehicle than to go out and buy. Anew or newer one only to have it spend more time in the shop than my driveway.
Keep up the good work my friend.
You look like the turbo charged squirrel in one of those animated movies
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rickywilliams8328
SouthMainAuto i have a 3. 8L chevy impala 2004 runs and drives great at random times rpms go up and down up and down, and power is gone. reset the codes while symptoms are present and instantly drives great again. Changed all intake sensors, intake gaskets, random codes for throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor pop up half the time. Mass air flow sensor is most common code. I have replaced the sensor 3 times, checked wireing, and changed air filter nothing seems to fix it. Could this be a pcm/ecm problem as erasing codes immediately fixes it
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SouthMainAuto i have a 3. 8L chevy impala 2004 runs and drives great at random times rpms go up and down up and down, and power is gone. reset the codes while symptoms are present and instantly drives great again. Changed all intake sensors, intake gaskets, random codes for throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor pop up half the time. Mass air flow sensor is most common code. I have replaced the sensor 3 times, checked wireing, and changed air filter nothing seems to fix it. Could this be a pcm/ecm problem as erasing codes immediately fixes it
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kennethhendrie2091
Why just why is it that the manufacturers believe that we need electronic steering flyby wire throttle 18 different computers in the vehicle has any of this crap made the vehicles better more reliable safer. I’ll say no. I’ve been a mechanic since 1983 specialized in Asian imports and diesels, I would never buy any of these vehicles. I don’t think I would ever own one of these vehicles was given to me I drive 1998 Toyota forerunner 3. 4 L V6 400, 000 miles and still going. It makes me wonder why why do people continue to buy this crap
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Why just why is it that the manufacturers believe that we need electronic steering flyby wire throttle 18 different computers in the vehicle has any of this crap made the vehicles better more reliable safer. I’ll say no. I’ve been a mechanic since 1983 specialized in Asian imports and diesels, I would never buy any of these vehicles. I don’t think I would ever own one of these vehicles was given to me I drive 1998 Toyota forerunner 3. 4 L V6 400, 000 miles and still going. It makes me wonder why why do people continue to buy this crap
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LuckyGuessGarage
Scumbag move What How in hell else are you supposed to figure it out I have a 2015 Chevy Equinox in my shop right now. 9 years old. Chevy says it's acceptable for it to burn 1 quart of oil per 1000 miles. She's retired on social security. 3 quarts low and the engine is fried. She says, Pat I always change my oil I have 1000 miles left on my sticker and the oil life is at 60 percent. That oil life is nothing but a timer hun. I'm sorry your truck is junk. Shameful.
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Scumbag move What How in hell else are you supposed to figure it out I have a 2015 Chevy Equinox in my shop right now. 9 years old. Chevy says it's acceptable for it to burn 1 quart of oil per 1000 miles. She's retired on social security. 3 quarts low and the engine is fried. She says, Pat I always change my oil I have 1000 miles left on my sticker and the oil life is at 60 percent. That oil life is nothing but a timer hun. I'm sorry your truck is junk. Shameful.
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TDCflyer
It happens in all kinds of vehicles. My uneducated guess would be - using cheap electric sensors and actuators in very much critical systems is a bad idea. Especially when literally all those components are being made by cheap labor in developing countries like China, Malaysia, India or Bangladesh.
Quality control, if there even was some from the beginning, has to yield when big companies put heavy pressure on those factories to raise output and cut prices.
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It happens in all kinds of vehicles. My uneducated guess would be - using cheap electric sensors and actuators in very much critical systems is a bad idea. Especially when literally all those components are being made by cheap labor in developing countries like China, Malaysia, India or Bangladesh.
Quality control, if there even was some from the beginning, has to yield when big companies put heavy pressure on those factories to raise output and cut prices.
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LuckyGuessGarage
My gosh man! I'm sorry to keep commenting but I have to ask if you've ever heard of an electromagnetic heating induction device. The one I have is called a hot rod. I know, ha ha. It's like $250 and works great! You have way nicer stuff than me. I'm still trying to get one of those truck creepers you have. My back is killing me! Just thought I would share. You've given me so much great advice! The torch was a go to for me until I bought that.
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My gosh man! I'm sorry to keep commenting but I have to ask if you've ever heard of an electromagnetic heating induction device. The one I have is called a hot rod. I know, ha ha. It's like $250 and works great! You have way nicer stuff than me. I'm still trying to get one of those truck creepers you have. My back is killing me! Just thought I would share. You've given me so much great advice! The torch was a go to for me until I bought that.
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CedroCron
Subaru should update their software so that if it see steering far to one direction too fast it cuts the motor and stops it where it is because that's dangerous. Also never apologize Eric for your shop being busy. Even if there is 0 dialogue and we just get to watch that's fine. I'm sure we all appreciate that you even make videos and we understand you have a shop to run to put food on your table. Thanks!
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Subaru should update their software so that if it see steering far to one direction too fast it cuts the motor and stops it where it is because that's dangerous. Also never apologize Eric for your shop being busy. Even if there is 0 dialogue and we just get to watch that's fine. I'm sure we all appreciate that you even make videos and we understand you have a shop to run to put food on your table. Thanks!
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awegner6465
My sisters Forester had intermittent no power power steering, and the garage she took it to told her she needed an $1800 rack. I went online and found 2 guys who said to check the battery 1st. Did that and the battery failed the test even though it cranked fine. Replaced the battery and that resolved the PS issues. Obviously would not have helped in your case as your rack was cracked.
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My sisters Forester had intermittent no power power steering, and the garage she took it to told her she needed an $1800 rack. I went online and found 2 guys who said to check the battery 1st. Did that and the battery failed the test even though it cranked fine. Replaced the battery and that resolved the PS issues. Obviously would not have helped in your case as your rack was cracked.
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william121852
I just replaced the steering rack on my 05 Legacy Turbo, standard power steering w/pump, and did not have that much trouble during the replacement. Replacing the fluid and bleeding the unit was time consuming to a point, but not to bad. Could not afford to let a shop do it, I'm 72 yrs old and still doing my own mechanical work, did it my whole life!
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I just replaced the steering rack on my 05 Legacy Turbo, standard power steering w/pump, and did not have that much trouble during the replacement. Replacing the fluid and bleeding the unit was time consuming to a point, but not to bad. Could not afford to let a shop do it, I'm 72 yrs old and still doing my own mechanical work, did it my whole life!
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moomae1
Last few days I've been changing the right front lower control arm on my 2010 Outback. Let me tell you every bolt is rust welded to to the bushing and the sub-frame. I had to cut away everything. Needed to drill out the pinch bolt for the ball joint too. 50/50 if I'm going to pay the mechanic to do the left side. Not sure I have it in me anymore.
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Last few days I've been changing the right front lower control arm on my 2010 Outback. Let me tell you every bolt is rust welded to to the bushing and the sub-frame. I had to cut away everything. Needed to drill out the pinch bolt for the ball joint too. 50/50 if I'm going to pay the mechanic to do the left side. Not sure I have it in me anymore.
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autorepair
Lol, best comment the power steering control module has gone corrupt like our Gov't. Like you say sometimes you just have to make the call. Went on the local library repair source and 2018 Subaru Forrester repair info is completely blocked. Nothing available at all so can't even look at a wiring diagram. Big thumbs down on Scroobaroo!
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Lol, best comment the power steering control module has gone corrupt like our Gov't. Like you say sometimes you just have to make the call. Went on the local library repair source and 2018 Subaru Forrester repair info is completely blocked. Nothing available at all so can't even look at a wiring diagram. Big thumbs down on Scroobaroo!
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autorepair
I just helped my daughter change the lower control arms on her 2005 Toyota Matrix. Funny that they looked just like the one in the video including the almost non existent rubber bushing. slight difference on the mileage though. This matrix has over 500, 000 miles, original engine and transmission. Southern calif car, no rust at all!
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I just helped my daughter change the lower control arms on her 2005 Toyota Matrix. Funny that they looked just like the one in the video including the almost non existent rubber bushing. slight difference on the mileage though. This matrix has over 500, 000 miles, original engine and transmission. Southern calif car, no rust at all!
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hotpuppy1
I assume there is a core charge It would be nice to take it apart to see what is inside. Don't like the design. Manual and power racks have been around for decades and are cheap. Skip this electric crap. We have a 2015 Crosstrek with 76, 000 miles. It likely will be going away next year when the extended CVT warranty is up.
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I assume there is a core charge It would be nice to take it apart to see what is inside. Don't like the design. Manual and power racks have been around for decades and are cheap. Skip this electric crap. We have a 2015 Crosstrek with 76, 000 miles. It likely will be going away next year when the extended CVT warranty is up.
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JBJHonez
Pretty much a majority of all vehicles nowadays have all electric power steering or electric assisted power steering. And the thing is, most won’t throw a code when there’s an issue. You’ll have to pay attention to certain lights that temporary flash when you first start the car. And they’re thousands to replace
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Pretty much a majority of all vehicles nowadays have all electric power steering or electric assisted power steering. And the thing is, most won’t throw a code when there’s an issue. You’ll have to pay attention to certain lights that temporary flash when you first start the car. And they’re thousands to replace
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bigdaddymak1439
Subaru is great with their customer service they'll probably reimburse the customer and i guarantee you're cheaper than the dealership charges even under warranty! Great stuff and never apologize for being too busy to record. Just say like Rainman Ray you're going into super duper high speed!
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Subaru is great with their customer service they'll probably reimburse the customer and i guarantee you're cheaper than the dealership charges even under warranty! Great stuff and never apologize for being too busy to record. Just say like Rainman Ray you're going into super duper high speed!
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autorepair
Had to laugh! While you are showing an expensive failure in a recent Subaru and no service data from them on comes an ad for, you guessed it! a 2025 Subaru! I call that gall. No help when the things prematurely puke but ads up the gazoo for buying another. Planned obsolescence take a bow!
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Had to laugh! While you are showing an expensive failure in a recent Subaru and no service data from them on comes an ad for, you guessed it! a 2025 Subaru! I call that gall. No help when the things prematurely puke but ads up the gazoo for buying another. Planned obsolescence take a bow!
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HScottFetterman
At 26: 58 in the video it looks like the flange with the bolt is cracked allowing the input shaft and torque sensor to flex when the turning in one direction but not the other. Unless it was cracked it during disassembly, but it looks old. I'll bet it flexes when turning left.
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At 26: 58 in the video it looks like the flange with the bolt is cracked allowing the input shaft and torque sensor to flex when the turning in one direction but not the other. Unless it was cracked it during disassembly, but it looks old. I'll bet it flexes when turning left.
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superintendent5731
You got to love what a lot of these diagram saying nowadays you do all your tests up to a certain point and then you read test with no good ECM PCM and so on
Like the average shop or even dealer has a known good one lying around with your VIN number programmed into it
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You got to love what a lot of these diagram saying nowadays you do all your tests up to a certain point and then you read test with no good ECM PCM and so on
Like the average shop or even dealer has a known good one lying around with your VIN number programmed into it
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