Hyundai Accent - From Pump Replacement To A Bearing Replacement
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Date: 2025-01-11
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Comments and reviews: 20
bassiclymike
Nice job going old skool on the bearing replacement. My dad taught me how to do a lot of auto work and he was a tight ass when it came to spending on parts. Why replace it when you can fix it And I continue the tradition. Ever price out an alternator for a '98 BMW 328i LOL I bought 2 bearings for under $20. Bearing replacement is generally pretty simple I've found and the parts are standard size, just get the numbers off the old one. Good choice with the SKF, they've done me well over the years.
As far as the old bearing looking like it had a gap in the balls, I think a lot of bearings that don't use retainers are designed like this, I've seen it when taking some sealed bearings apart to clean and re-grease (for short term use. When I used to do a lot of bicycle work, I always rebuilt my freewheels (the gear cluster on the rear wheel) and every time I took them apart, each race looked like it was missing 2-3 ball bearings. I believe that is so the balls don't get all crammed together and have friction with each other and actually make it harder to roll. We all know what ball friction is like. The extra space allows them to space themselves out and not be rubbing up against each other (again, we all know this. Still, I always added a couple ball bearings to each freewheel race and used a very light synthetic/teflon grease when reassembling, making sure there was still a bit of gap for them to space out a bit. Super smooth and quiet. My bikes were always very fast. Hit 56. 5MPH going downhill, 21. 5mph over the speed limit! WHEEEEEEEEEE!
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Nice job going old skool on the bearing replacement. My dad taught me how to do a lot of auto work and he was a tight ass when it came to spending on parts. Why replace it when you can fix it And I continue the tradition. Ever price out an alternator for a '98 BMW 328i LOL I bought 2 bearings for under $20. Bearing replacement is generally pretty simple I've found and the parts are standard size, just get the numbers off the old one. Good choice with the SKF, they've done me well over the years.
As far as the old bearing looking like it had a gap in the balls, I think a lot of bearings that don't use retainers are designed like this, I've seen it when taking some sealed bearings apart to clean and re-grease (for short term use. When I used to do a lot of bicycle work, I always rebuilt my freewheels (the gear cluster on the rear wheel) and every time I took them apart, each race looked like it was missing 2-3 ball bearings. I believe that is so the balls don't get all crammed together and have friction with each other and actually make it harder to roll. We all know what ball friction is like. The extra space allows them to space themselves out and not be rubbing up against each other (again, we all know this. Still, I always added a couple ball bearings to each freewheel race and used a very light synthetic/teflon grease when reassembling, making sure there was still a bit of gap for them to space out a bit. Super smooth and quiet. My bikes were always very fast. Hit 56. 5MPH going downhill, 21. 5mph over the speed limit! WHEEEEEEEEEE!
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boblemon2103
Growing up, my father fixed everything this way, he took it apart, figured out what was bad and got that part, I can hear him now, I’m not going to pay $40. 00 for an alternator when all it needs is a. 75 cents bearingyeah that was the 60’s and early 70’s, I do the same if I can get the parts and I have the time to wait for them.
Also found OEM has goin more to assemblies, I needed new rings for an engine I was working on, to get the rings you had to buy the piston assemble, piston, rings, connecting rod and pin $320 each, got a custom set from Wiseco, pistons and rings for less than one of those assemblies from the OEM.
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Growing up, my father fixed everything this way, he took it apart, figured out what was bad and got that part, I can hear him now, I’m not going to pay $40. 00 for an alternator when all it needs is a. 75 cents bearingyeah that was the 60’s and early 70’s, I do the same if I can get the parts and I have the time to wait for them.
Also found OEM has goin more to assemblies, I needed new rings for an engine I was working on, to get the rings you had to buy the piston assemble, piston, rings, connecting rod and pin $320 each, got a custom set from Wiseco, pistons and rings for less than one of those assemblies from the OEM.
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griffmillerii1885
Great repair - it's what I would have wanted if it were my car. Better to repair the OEM pump than replace it. As others have said, the 6203 bearing is really common. In my HS/college days when I worked at auto parts stores for mad money and books/tuition, I sold a ton of them. Looks to me like the ball cage had disintegrated, and no balls were missing.
I wonder if that bolt that was obviously recently backed out and hitting the back of the pulley contributed to the bearing's demise - it would have side-loaded the bearing, probably more than it could stand.
Awesome video - thanks!
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Great repair - it's what I would have wanted if it were my car. Better to repair the OEM pump than replace it. As others have said, the 6203 bearing is really common. In my HS/college days when I worked at auto parts stores for mad money and books/tuition, I sold a ton of them. Looks to me like the ball cage had disintegrated, and no balls were missing.
I wonder if that bolt that was obviously recently backed out and hitting the back of the pulley contributed to the bearing's demise - it would have side-loaded the bearing, probably more than it could stand.
Awesome video - thanks!
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pslny
Another big bearing killer Pressing the inner race onto a shaft by applying force to the outer bearing race, or vice versa for pressing in the outer race to a housing, transferring the force through the balls, creating little dimples on the bearing races. You didn't do this, probably, but would be better to use a sleeve to apply pressure to only the inner race for pressing to a shaft and a larger sleeve to only apply pressure to the outer race for pressing into the housing. Doesn't take much to reduce the useful life of the bearing. That said, nice work.
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Another big bearing killer Pressing the inner race onto a shaft by applying force to the outer bearing race, or vice versa for pressing in the outer race to a housing, transferring the force through the balls, creating little dimples on the bearing races. You didn't do this, probably, but would be better to use a sleeve to apply pressure to only the inner race for pressing to a shaft and a larger sleeve to only apply pressure to the outer race for pressing into the housing. Doesn't take much to reduce the useful life of the bearing. That said, nice work.
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autorepair
Years ago, we use to reline emergency brake bands and front, rear brake shoes, knock out the old rivets, clean the shoes and rivet new lining on for tandem dump trucks late 60s. You rebuild that pump or anything else you want, any way you want to do it, doesnt bother me at all. Many whiners can barely replace a whole piece, rebuilding they are clueless. Someone once told me, you cannot learn anything with your ears closed and your mouth open, it also takes a brain that can think/problem solve from different angles. Have a good day 1.
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Years ago, we use to reline emergency brake bands and front, rear brake shoes, knock out the old rivets, clean the shoes and rivet new lining on for tandem dump trucks late 60s. You rebuild that pump or anything else you want, any way you want to do it, doesnt bother me at all. Many whiners can barely replace a whole piece, rebuilding they are clueless. Someone once told me, you cannot learn anything with your ears closed and your mouth open, it also takes a brain that can think/problem solve from different angles. Have a good day 1.
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elliotconger2169
I like seeing repairs like this, it’s just really difficult for me to justify doing repairs this way in the context of the dealership I work for, I replace just that bearing, and maybe it lasts forever maybe it blows up next month, same same with a new pump sure but at least the new pump has the warranty so the customer doesn’t eat it twice. Idk I feel like repairs like this are very situational. Some times it adds up some times it doesn’t. Either way great video Eric!
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I like seeing repairs like this, it’s just really difficult for me to justify doing repairs this way in the context of the dealership I work for, I replace just that bearing, and maybe it lasts forever maybe it blows up next month, same same with a new pump sure but at least the new pump has the warranty so the customer doesn’t eat it twice. Idk I feel like repairs like this are very situational. Some times it adds up some times it doesn’t. Either way great video Eric!
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kevinelsdon273
Bearings. ooof. ignore the beginning letters/numbers, then pay attention to the middle numbers, ignore the latter letters/numbers. The middle ones are the ones to pay attention to. Saved myself $700 Canucky bucks rebuilding a 1982 Yamaha RJ-650 drive and wheel bearings by visiting a wonderful company near me RAESide. dunno if they are still in Coquitlam BC Canada but they saved me $$$$$$, Then Dodge rear end carrier bearings etc etc.
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Bearings. ooof. ignore the beginning letters/numbers, then pay attention to the middle numbers, ignore the latter letters/numbers. The middle ones are the ones to pay attention to. Saved myself $700 Canucky bucks rebuilding a 1982 Yamaha RJ-650 drive and wheel bearings by visiting a wonderful company near me RAESide. dunno if they are still in Coquitlam BC Canada but they saved me $$$$$$, Then Dodge rear end carrier bearings etc etc.
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mavicaerials8825
The bearing cage is missing/ground up and the cage is necessary to equally space the balls around the bearing circumference. In other words, that bearing is fried. It was a sealed clean bearing; originally it was greased when the bearing was factory assembled it and the seals on both sides were meant to keep the grease in place. The grease probably escaped, and it's not lubricated by any other means. That's the end of life.
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The bearing cage is missing/ground up and the cage is necessary to equally space the balls around the bearing circumference. In other words, that bearing is fried. It was a sealed clean bearing; originally it was greased when the bearing was factory assembled it and the seals on both sides were meant to keep the grease in place. The grease probably escaped, and it's not lubricated by any other means. That's the end of life.
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tetedur377
Hey! Did you find that tension gauge in my toolbox!
J/k I had the same one. The hateful part about the newer shtboxes is that it's almost impossible to get a tension gauge in there to check.
I'm thinking that a system flush would be in order, since one of the bearings has dissolved or disintegrated and is floating around in the system.
I just watched a video of a Korean manufacturer of bearings, and there is no gap.
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Hey! Did you find that tension gauge in my toolbox!
J/k I had the same one. The hateful part about the newer shtboxes is that it's almost impossible to get a tension gauge in there to check.
I'm thinking that a system flush would be in order, since one of the bearings has dissolved or disintegrated and is floating around in the system.
I just watched a video of a Korean manufacturer of bearings, and there is no gap.
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autorepair
Nice repair - wonder if the bearing failed because of the bolt backing out which would create some undue side stress on the bearing as the bolt head rubbed against the backside of the pulley. The rubber seals on the bearing would allow any grit from the rubbing metals into the cage area of the bearing with the added side pressure and contaminate the grease leading to ball bearing failure - just speculation on my part.
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Nice repair - wonder if the bearing failed because of the bolt backing out which would create some undue side stress on the bearing as the bolt head rubbed against the backside of the pulley. The rubber seals on the bearing would allow any grit from the rubbing metals into the cage area of the bearing with the added side pressure and contaminate the grease leading to ball bearing failure - just speculation on my part.
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dssssc
The issue with the people that just replace whole parts or assemblies is they never learn how to actually repair anything, collect a check for a 1/4 of what the shop charges and unscrew and rescrew in bolts. Half the time they are in such a hurry they are stripped missing or torqued to hell. Rushing any repair work for money always results in cut corners and parts changers.
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The issue with the people that just replace whole parts or assemblies is they never learn how to actually repair anything, collect a check for a 1/4 of what the shop charges and unscrew and rescrew in bolts. Half the time they are in such a hurry they are stripped missing or torqued to hell. Rushing any repair work for money always results in cut corners and parts changers.
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woodturnermark8529
Great job as always! It's good to see a manufacturer using off the shelf common parts, that bearing is used in a lot of applications, Iv'e seen it used as a pilot bearing, alternator, tensioners any many other components. The fact that you were willing to try to repair rather than just replace, is worth all the money you saved the customer. You are the man!
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Great job as always! It's good to see a manufacturer using off the shelf common parts, that bearing is used in a lot of applications, Iv'e seen it used as a pilot bearing, alternator, tensioners any many other components. The fact that you were willing to try to repair rather than just replace, is worth all the money you saved the customer. You are the man!
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mrb1864
KBC (Korean Bearing Company)
There's your problem lady, if that had only been a Koyo bearing from manufacture lol.
Easy pump to rebuild & not like it totally worn trash, sure it will be fine and lady enjoy the pleasant bill & honourable warranty of SMA if it doesn't, either way she winning.
This is what mechanic repair work use to be like.
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KBC (Korean Bearing Company)
There's your problem lady, if that had only been a Koyo bearing from manufacture lol.
Easy pump to rebuild & not like it totally worn trash, sure it will be fine and lady enjoy the pleasant bill & honourable warranty of SMA if it doesn't, either way she winning.
This is what mechanic repair work use to be like.
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jaminv2889
I've always been nervous about spraying the Brake-Kleen over everything because I thought I had read once that brake cleaner was bad for rubber hoses and seals and such, so I've always been nervous to just spray it around rubber items, I was under the impression it dries them up and makes them brittle. Is this something I have to worry about
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I've always been nervous about spraying the Brake-Kleen over everything because I thought I had read once that brake cleaner was bad for rubber hoses and seals and such, so I've always been nervous to just spray it around rubber items, I was under the impression it dries them up and makes them brittle. Is this something I have to worry about
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miceinoz1181
I would suggest the bearing damage was done when the bolt came out and was smacking into the drive wheel. Other option is overtightening the drive belt, but then you have a water pump to consider, so I go for the first cause here. I would happily do exactly the same however the availability of bits (i. e. bearing) would be the factor.
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I would suggest the bearing damage was done when the bolt came out and was smacking into the drive wheel. Other option is overtightening the drive belt, but then you have a water pump to consider, so I go for the first cause here. I would happily do exactly the same however the availability of bits (i. e. bearing) would be the factor.
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BobSakamoto
Best I've seen in a while because it proves Eric is mortal. I can't count the times I had to make 5 trips to the toolbox to get the right size, but he has a good excuse since the bolt head had been clearanced. And for an old guy, reminded me of the days when we could replace parts on a module instead of having to just buy a new one.
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Best I've seen in a while because it proves Eric is mortal. I can't count the times I had to make 5 trips to the toolbox to get the right size, but he has a good excuse since the bolt head had been clearanced. And for an old guy, reminded me of the days when we could replace parts on a module instead of having to just buy a new one.
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jab018
6203 is a very common bearing. Most belt idler and tensioner pulley use it. I have replaces loaded of them in the metal pulleys(and rarely in the plastic ones) it's good to have a couple in the top of the tool box. It is also the front bearing in the old Chevy and ford alternators (60's 70's early 80's) 6303 is another common one.
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6203 is a very common bearing. Most belt idler and tensioner pulley use it. I have replaces loaded of them in the metal pulleys(and rarely in the plastic ones) it's good to have a couple in the top of the tool box. It is also the front bearing in the old Chevy and ford alternators (60's 70's early 80's) 6303 is another common one.
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alexanderzubar9593
Great job! A bit more satisfying to repair than throw parts. . Agree that repairing OEM beats Chinesium every time. Don’t worry about the wear pattern. It will create a new wear pattern anyway. If it doesn’t, just dump a little AJAX in the pump for about 67. 5 seconds then change the fluid and you’re good!
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Great job! A bit more satisfying to repair than throw parts. . Agree that repairing OEM beats Chinesium every time. Don’t worry about the wear pattern. It will create a new wear pattern anyway. If it doesn’t, just dump a little AJAX in the pump for about 67. 5 seconds then change the fluid and you’re good!
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autorepair
My buddy has a 1997 jeep tj and the power steering gear box was bad and he was going to get a new one for anywhere from 150 to 300 dollars. I told him to get a rebuild kit and I would rebuild it. Of course I have never done it, but I am a millwright and work on turbines and cars, so I did it and it works perfectly.
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My buddy has a 1997 jeep tj and the power steering gear box was bad and he was going to get a new one for anywhere from 150 to 300 dollars. I told him to get a rebuild kit and I would rebuild it. Of course I have never done it, but I am a millwright and work on turbines and cars, so I did it and it works perfectly.
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chrisforker7487
You do amazing work, I’m sure there’s more than a few mechanics that would have replaced the bearing and charged for the pump, just the way of the world these days!
I’m doing all my own work now, don’t trust any dealers and we only have 2 mechanics here in town and they are backed up for weeks!
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You do amazing work, I’m sure there’s more than a few mechanics that would have replaced the bearing and charged for the pump, just the way of the world these days!
I’m doing all my own work now, don’t trust any dealers and we only have 2 mechanics here in town and they are backed up for weeks!
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