Test For A Blown Head Gasket
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Gregory
Hello SMA/Eric, I really enjoy your videos. I've learned a great deal from them, and I appreciate the time and effort to make them possible for all of us to learn. I've come across a big challenge in my own garage, on a vehicle model you work on very regularly. I have a 2002 Dodge Caravan with 242, 000 miles. I am the first and only owner, and through the years, I've replaced just about everything. I recently hit a big challenge, and decided to take it on with some guidance, and education across several of your videos. My vehicle has been losing coolant for some time, and through some investigation, I determined that the rear head gasket was leaking coolant down the back side of the block. The pink crusty areas on the block just below the head gasket was the give away. I've removed the heads, and took them to a machine shop to be refurbished, and was preparing the head area on the block for the new gaskets, and came to realize when cleaning up the head area on the block, that several of the head bolt inserts threaded into the head bolt holes have detached (unthreaded) from the bottom of the tapped head bolt holes, and are now anywhere from 1/4 to 2 below head surface. Normally, I believe they should be about 3 below the block surface, threaded into the tapped head bolt hole. The inserts themselves are about 1 deep on inside for the head bolt to thread into. They basically came up, as I removed the head bolts, and eventually let go of the head bolt before it came out. Other than threading the head bolt back in, letting it bottom out in the insert, and driving them back down with some pressure and torque, I don't know of any way to get them to reseat at the bottom of the head bolt holes. I've been searching the internet, and can not find any info about this type of issue, except when they are stripped out. In which case, the inserts are drilled out, the hole is re-tapped, and new inserts are added. A couple of inserts that I tested, successfully re-threaded the head bolt back in with just some twisting by hand, but of course the head bolt is no where near the needed depth to hold down the the cylinder head. I haven't yet tried any heavy torque or pressure to see if the insert will work it's way back down, and rethread back into the block. Can you recommend an approach? Maybe these inserts are now considered shot, and unreliable, not sure. Thanks, and keep going with the great videos. Greg
reply
Hello SMA/Eric, I really enjoy your videos. I've learned a great deal from them, and I appreciate the time and effort to make them possible for all of us to learn. I've come across a big challenge in my own garage, on a vehicle model you work on very regularly. I have a 2002 Dodge Caravan with 242, 000 miles. I am the first and only owner, and through the years, I've replaced just about everything. I recently hit a big challenge, and decided to take it on with some guidance, and education across several of your videos. My vehicle has been losing coolant for some time, and through some investigation, I determined that the rear head gasket was leaking coolant down the back side of the block. The pink crusty areas on the block just below the head gasket was the give away. I've removed the heads, and took them to a machine shop to be refurbished, and was preparing the head area on the block for the new gaskets, and came to realize when cleaning up the head area on the block, that several of the head bolt inserts threaded into the head bolt holes have detached (unthreaded) from the bottom of the tapped head bolt holes, and are now anywhere from 1/4 to 2 below head surface. Normally, I believe they should be about 3 below the block surface, threaded into the tapped head bolt hole. The inserts themselves are about 1 deep on inside for the head bolt to thread into. They basically came up, as I removed the head bolts, and eventually let go of the head bolt before it came out. Other than threading the head bolt back in, letting it bottom out in the insert, and driving them back down with some pressure and torque, I don't know of any way to get them to reseat at the bottom of the head bolt holes. I've been searching the internet, and can not find any info about this type of issue, except when they are stripped out. In which case, the inserts are drilled out, the hole is re-tapped, and new inserts are added. A couple of inserts that I tested, successfully re-threaded the head bolt back in with just some twisting by hand, but of course the head bolt is no where near the needed depth to hold down the the cylinder head. I haven't yet tried any heavy torque or pressure to see if the insert will work it's way back down, and rethread back into the block. Can you recommend an approach? Maybe these inserts are now considered shot, and unreliable, not sure. Thanks, and keep going with the great videos. Greg
reply
Mike
Sent a note to Napa recommending they sponsor South Main Auto. They responded as if the local Napa store was sponsoring the local little league team. I dont know, maybe you can get pizza and a uniform out of them. dunderheads. Hello,
NAPA is honored by your inquiry and for thinking of us regarding this situation. NAPA Headquarters/Genuine Parts Company defers to our Regional representation as it pertains to community involvement, local sponsorships, and donations. We recommend that you contact your local NAPA store and/or Distribution Center (where our Regional Management is located) to present your request for review. You may also consider sending a written proposal directly to NAPAs Headquarters in Atlanta at the following address: 2999 Wildwood Parkway, Atlanta, GA 30339. Thank you again.
Kind Regards,
Customer Service
NAPA
reply
Sent a note to Napa recommending they sponsor South Main Auto. They responded as if the local Napa store was sponsoring the local little league team. I dont know, maybe you can get pizza and a uniform out of them. dunderheads. Hello,
NAPA is honored by your inquiry and for thinking of us regarding this situation. NAPA Headquarters/Genuine Parts Company defers to our Regional representation as it pertains to community involvement, local sponsorships, and donations. We recommend that you contact your local NAPA store and/or Distribution Center (where our Regional Management is located) to present your request for review. You may also consider sending a written proposal directly to NAPAs Headquarters in Atlanta at the following address: 2999 Wildwood Parkway, Atlanta, GA 30339. Thank you again.
Kind Regards,
Customer Service
NAPA
reply
Garrett
Hey Eric! Congrats on 100k viewers. I've been enjoying your stuff since you showed us how to burn out studs on a Ram way back when. Any ideas for a positive diagnostic on a head gasket when the juice doesn't give a result? So far I've got one steam cleaned cylinder, no positive result with the block tester, no obvious bubbling in the radiator with 100psi to the cylinder with the valves closed (but apparently quite a bit of leakage to the adjacent cylinder) and a pretty even set of compression test results. This is a Audi 1. 8T with no coolant passages in the intake/intake gaskets. not sure where else the coolant would come from? I hate to rip it apart without a smoking gun. Except for the quart of coolant loss each week and the huge cloud of smoke on cold start.
reply
Hey Eric! Congrats on 100k viewers. I've been enjoying your stuff since you showed us how to burn out studs on a Ram way back when. Any ideas for a positive diagnostic on a head gasket when the juice doesn't give a result? So far I've got one steam cleaned cylinder, no positive result with the block tester, no obvious bubbling in the radiator with 100psi to the cylinder with the valves closed (but apparently quite a bit of leakage to the adjacent cylinder) and a pretty even set of compression test results. This is a Audi 1. 8T with no coolant passages in the intake/intake gaskets. not sure where else the coolant would come from? I hate to rip it apart without a smoking gun. Except for the quart of coolant loss each week and the huge cloud of smoke on cold start.
reply
Martin
Hi There.
I have an 03 Chevy Silverado 6 leader. Slow to start, But not all the time. Replaced every sensor I could think of, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, Gas filter, New fuel pump, wires&plugs, Fuel injectors. Even switched out the throttle body. Catalytic converter seems to be open. But still have a multi misfire code. Did this test and the fluid turned green but not yellow. Any thoughts would be appreciated thank you.
Also believe on your videos have been very helpful and awesome thank you for your time. marty
reply
Hi There.
I have an 03 Chevy Silverado 6 leader. Slow to start, But not all the time. Replaced every sensor I could think of, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, Gas filter, New fuel pump, wires&plugs, Fuel injectors. Even switched out the throttle body. Catalytic converter seems to be open. But still have a multi misfire code. Did this test and the fluid turned green but not yellow. Any thoughts would be appreciated thank you.
Also believe on your videos have been very helpful and awesome thank you for your time. marty
reply
fonzo2525
nothing left now except the crying, lol, but soo true if you're the car owner and really can't afford the repair and this is your families only ride: ,I was actually in a shop getting my moms car inspected and this woman came in and they told her what was wrong with her car and she left in tears, so sad to see, but cars are just so expensive to fix these days you almost have no choice but to fix them yourself, or at least try.
reply
nothing left now except the crying, lol, but soo true if you're the car owner and really can't afford the repair and this is your families only ride: ,I was actually in a shop getting my moms car inspected and this woman came in and they told her what was wrong with her car and she left in tears, so sad to see, but cars are just so expensive to fix these days you almost have no choice but to fix them yourself, or at least try.
reply
Air
Hello, I'm having a problem with my engine. Everytime I open my radiator cap pressure is coming out even if the engine is cold and not run for 24hrs the pressure stays there. I have a new radiator, new radiator cap(correct pressure rate, all hoses are good and no external coolant leak, temperature is normal. What might be the problem. My engine is mitsubishi 4d56 diesel 2. 5literr never been rebuild and have 140K miles
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Hello, I'm having a problem with my engine. Everytime I open my radiator cap pressure is coming out even if the engine is cold and not run for 24hrs the pressure stays there. I have a new radiator, new radiator cap(correct pressure rate, all hoses are good and no external coolant leak, temperature is normal. What might be the problem. My engine is mitsubishi 4d56 diesel 2. 5literr never been rebuild and have 140K miles
reply
Goodfellas
Engines act up in so many ways it's not even funny one moment it's fine the next minute it has an overheating problem not always the head or head gasket sometimes it's the block and people do head jobs still no fix the problem I guess what I'm saying is I had a 2002 Silverado 5 3 and we redid the heads head gasket everything you can think of water pump radiator hoses intake gaskets still overheats to this day
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Engines act up in so many ways it's not even funny one moment it's fine the next minute it has an overheating problem not always the head or head gasket sometimes it's the block and people do head jobs still no fix the problem I guess what I'm saying is I had a 2002 Silverado 5 3 and we redid the heads head gasket everything you can think of water pump radiator hoses intake gaskets still overheats to this day
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Embidd
Might not be a bad idea to run this test on a car you'd like to buy. Kind of throw it on there while your doing your other inspections, come back give her a squeeze or 20 and see what happens.
I've actually heard of previous owners/dealers RTVing the reservoir hoses from radiator so if you happen to just check the reservoir's coolant you wouldn't know anything is wrong.
reply
Might not be a bad idea to run this test on a car you'd like to buy. Kind of throw it on there while your doing your other inspections, come back give her a squeeze or 20 and see what happens.
I've actually heard of previous owners/dealers RTVing the reservoir hoses from radiator so if you happen to just check the reservoir's coolant you wouldn't know anything is wrong.
reply
Nick
Hi all this will make me sound an idiot but here goes. I bought one of these testers of ebay and due to the fact it came to me from china and i live in Australia no fluid came with it. I ask about the fluid and was told that you can use ink and water it it diluted ink. Is this right? Nick
reply
Hi all this will make me sound an idiot but here goes. I bought one of these testers of ebay and due to the fact it came to me from china and i live in Australia no fluid came with it. I ask about the fluid and was told that you can use ink and water it it diluted ink. Is this right? Nick
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Freddes
Hi! and thanx for replay
don't belive that is it, i've been topping up with the engine cold, after driving some 4 Swedish mil, the low coolant warning come on, i stop to top it up, but when i open the lid for the overflow bottle, the level rises back up?
reply
Hi! and thanx for replay
don't belive that is it, i've been topping up with the engine cold, after driving some 4 Swedish mil, the low coolant warning come on, i stop to top it up, but when i open the lid for the overflow bottle, the level rises back up?
reply
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