Chevy Impala - P0332 Knock Sensor Trouble
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
roadkill5333
Dear Eric O! I decided to rewire my Chivey, and removed all of the wires at the same time, instead of one at a time! I used different colored wires, and different style connectors, and now when I turn on my right turn signal, the horn blows on my 96 Acura integra, and my next door neighbors porch lights blink! Tell me how to fix this for free, and I heard the doorbell again! UNSUBSCRIBING! But I'll wait til after the answer, this time!
P. S. I don't know what year, or model it is, but it's blue, with a gray interior, and either a V6 or a V8. And aluminum wheels!
P. P. S. There is no junk in the floor boards, but my neighbor and I are loading it up as we speak! Can't have you talking about working on a car without junk in the trunk!
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Dear Eric O! I decided to rewire my Chivey, and removed all of the wires at the same time, instead of one at a time! I used different colored wires, and different style connectors, and now when I turn on my right turn signal, the horn blows on my 96 Acura integra, and my next door neighbors porch lights blink! Tell me how to fix this for free, and I heard the doorbell again! UNSUBSCRIBING! But I'll wait til after the answer, this time!
P. S. I don't know what year, or model it is, but it's blue, with a gray interior, and either a V6 or a V8. And aluminum wheels!
P. P. S. There is no junk in the floor boards, but my neighbor and I are loading it up as we speak! Can't have you talking about working on a car without junk in the trunk!
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Walt's
You are the MAN! I really like the intelligent way you attack these problems. A 5000 Snap-On scope helps, but without the sense to know what the scope is telling you, the scope is a paperweight. A regular oscilloscope would also show the IF the code scanner had live data to narrow the search. I'm shocked that GM did not shield these wires. I worked on the early GM ECMs in the 1980s and all signal wires were shielded with foil. Guess that got too expensive, or make the harnesses too fat. As you say, at 50K volts for the ignition wires, maybe it would have not have made a difference.
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You are the MAN! I really like the intelligent way you attack these problems. A 5000 Snap-On scope helps, but without the sense to know what the scope is telling you, the scope is a paperweight. A regular oscilloscope would also show the IF the code scanner had live data to narrow the search. I'm shocked that GM did not shield these wires. I worked on the early GM ECMs in the 1980s and all signal wires were shielded with foil. Guess that got too expensive, or make the harnesses too fat. As you say, at 50K volts for the ignition wires, maybe it would have not have made a difference.
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Blackie
I had same type of problem. My main drivers side fan would not come on when temps make it should turn on. Passenger side was OK. All I did was hook a wire to a switch inside car then manually turned it on or off. I did not care if it was the right way but it serves my purpose instead of paying out tons of money to fix like the chevy dealer wanted. Most independents did not want to touch it at the time with most saying after checking out the system that it was the ecm.
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I had same type of problem. My main drivers side fan would not come on when temps make it should turn on. Passenger side was OK. All I did was hook a wire to a switch inside car then manually turned it on or off. I did not care if it was the right way but it serves my purpose instead of paying out tons of money to fix like the chevy dealer wanted. Most independents did not want to touch it at the time with most saying after checking out the system that it was the ecm.
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Jesus
I have a problem with a 2010 Ford Mustang v6. I was driving and randomly died while driving. Pulled over and gave the battery a jump and nothing checked fuses and nothing but I noticed that I couldnt even put it in N it stayed in park. Plus my theft lock light is on and doesnt crank at all. And when I try to crank it, my blinkers go off and the theft lock light also & my interior lights stay on. Please help!
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I have a problem with a 2010 Ford Mustang v6. I was driving and randomly died while driving. Pulled over and gave the battery a jump and nothing checked fuses and nothing but I noticed that I couldnt even put it in N it stayed in park. Plus my theft lock light is on and doesnt crank at all. And when I try to crank it, my blinkers go off and the theft lock light also & my interior lights stay on. Please help!
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SATAMAN
Conditions needed to be met to have Eric O. work on your car:
1) Must be a rusty piece of shit. THAT'S A GIVEN.
2) Preferably hacked up by the owner or a previous shop.
3) The owner has to barely be getting by as evidence from the condition of their car/truck. No Yuppies here in Avoca folks.
4) Interior of the car/truck must look like a well used dumpster.
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Conditions needed to be met to have Eric O. work on your car:
1) Must be a rusty piece of shit. THAT'S A GIVEN.
2) Preferably hacked up by the owner or a previous shop.
3) The owner has to barely be getting by as evidence from the condition of their car/truck. No Yuppies here in Avoca folks.
4) Interior of the car/truck must look like a well used dumpster.
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Kosh
Thanks, good video. I think mine what implanted, too. xD 9: 30
Even, got some new SP wires just incase. I was thinking spark jump, too. But, haven't changed them yet; because, runs Nice-- with the Code Cleared.
I think I'm going to change & check continuity of the other knock senser-- just because.
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Thanks, good video. I think mine what implanted, too. xD 9: 30
Even, got some new SP wires just incase. I was thinking spark jump, too. But, haven't changed them yet; because, runs Nice-- with the Code Cleared.
I think I'm going to change & check continuity of the other knock senser-- just because.
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GNX157
Running both at half speed I could think of a few reasons. Less noise and vibration. Less surge draw on alternator causing less idle fluctuation (better idle drivability) due to alternator output response. Two low fans pull more uniform air over larger cross section of radiator.
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Running both at half speed I could think of a few reasons. Less noise and vibration. Less surge draw on alternator causing less idle fluctuation (better idle drivability) due to alternator output response. Two low fans pull more uniform air over larger cross section of radiator.
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Sdttn
Actually the two speed cooling fan system without resistor is pretty smart idea. Resistors gets hot and hot things tend to fail. I am curious about how the ecm knows the failed fan circuit? There is no feedback circuit on the diagram which Eric showed us.
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Actually the two speed cooling fan system without resistor is pretty smart idea. Resistors gets hot and hot things tend to fail. I am curious about how the ecm knows the failed fan circuit? There is no feedback circuit on the diagram which Eric showed us.
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daveogarf
Eric, I don't get it! WHY would someone go in trying to fix stuff, then leave an unholy MESS behind like that? It takes just a few minutes to tidy up, and it makes your troubleshooting harder! JEESH
You, sir, are a very talented individual.
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Eric, I don't get it! WHY would someone go in trying to fix stuff, then leave an unholy MESS behind like that? It takes just a few minutes to tidy up, and it makes your troubleshooting harder! JEESH
You, sir, are a very talented individual.
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Jeremy
I'm guessing with all the resistance in his wiring loom, they just removed the covering to let the wires breathe a little and cool off. I mean, that'll slow down the fuse poppin', right? Cooling fan breakdown put the brakes on that though lol
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I'm guessing with all the resistance in his wiring loom, they just removed the covering to let the wires breathe a little and cool off. I mean, that'll slow down the fuse poppin', right? Cooling fan breakdown put the brakes on that though lol
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