Chevrolet Fuel Pump Driver Problems - Where Is The Broken Wire
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Gary
Eric I love watching you do repairs especially what you had to do on this truck I am one of those Car Guys that is scared well you fill in the blanks of electrical and I've learned a lot watching you do the repairs like what you did tracing down that corroded purple wire down in this truck so thank you for showing us how you doing as I'm restoring my 67 Camaro I've had to go through a lot of electrical issues with that and yes a lot of parts are available for the 67 Camaro but there are some that are not, so what I've learned watching you repair on other cars you've worked on I'm learning to trace down electrical faults myself so thank you for showing us on your videos keep up the great work there thank you.
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Eric I love watching you do repairs especially what you had to do on this truck I am one of those Car Guys that is scared well you fill in the blanks of electrical and I've learned a lot watching you do the repairs like what you did tracing down that corroded purple wire down in this truck so thank you for showing us how you doing as I'm restoring my 67 Camaro I've had to go through a lot of electrical issues with that and yes a lot of parts are available for the 67 Camaro but there are some that are not, so what I've learned watching you repair on other cars you've worked on I'm learning to trace down electrical faults myself so thank you for showing us on your videos keep up the great work there thank you.
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Thirza
Believe me, if I lived in your area I'd be bringing my car to you. Since you don't say who it is who is doing all this hack work in your area, it would be a crap shoot of hitting that mechanic if I went anywhere else. In my area, we don't get rust like that. I have a careful, thorough mechanic like you. My car, which he has been working on for 14 years, is 19 years old this month and has 225, 000 miles on it. Everything works on it except the ABS. He has done such good work on it all this time that I may just drive it the rest of my life. My hat is off to any good mechanic like you.
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Believe me, if I lived in your area I'd be bringing my car to you. Since you don't say who it is who is doing all this hack work in your area, it would be a crap shoot of hitting that mechanic if I went anywhere else. In my area, we don't get rust like that. I have a careful, thorough mechanic like you. My car, which he has been working on for 14 years, is 19 years old this month and has 225, 000 miles on it. Everything works on it except the ABS. He has done such good work on it all this time that I may just drive it the rest of my life. My hat is off to any good mechanic like you.
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max
Looks like aftermarket shocks, exhaust has been changed, wires rotted. How is it that a 6 year old truck is this rough when I drive a 20 year old van not to far from you on original shocks, tailpipe etc. Seems like some vehicles are just beat to hell. Even the aftermarket tailpipe is already rotted around the clamp. I guess my family has just been lucky with decent cars. We get stuff in just like this truck with very low mileage and problems from one end to the other. It seems suspicious to me when I get this stuff in.
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Looks like aftermarket shocks, exhaust has been changed, wires rotted. How is it that a 6 year old truck is this rough when I drive a 20 year old van not to far from you on original shocks, tailpipe etc. Seems like some vehicles are just beat to hell. Even the aftermarket tailpipe is already rotted around the clamp. I guess my family has just been lucky with decent cars. We get stuff in just like this truck with very low mileage and problems from one end to the other. It seems suspicious to me when I get this stuff in.
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Bryan
There is a technique that is basically sound theory called TDR (Time Domain Reflectometry) that can determine the length of a wire (and by extension, presumably where the break is. I have never used it, mostly because I am leery of calibration issues. Basically it pulses the wire and catches the time of flight for the pulse to be reflected back. It is used in telecom a lot, but I'm not sure how salt and dirt and moisture and capacitance might affect how it works in automotive environments.
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There is a technique that is basically sound theory called TDR (Time Domain Reflectometry) that can determine the length of a wire (and by extension, presumably where the break is. I have never used it, mostly because I am leery of calibration issues. Basically it pulses the wire and catches the time of flight for the pulse to be reflected back. It is used in telecom a lot, but I'm not sure how salt and dirt and moisture and capacitance might affect how it works in automotive environments.
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Scott
I have a question. I used to use silicone to repair probe spots and other types of splice joints. Usually did not see the same unit twice. Does the ingredients in RTV cause problems versus the liquid electrical tape. Also used to work on multiplexing electrical systems and moisture in a lighting socket would act like a ground fault. The difference in the power going out and the power coming back would tell the module to cut power to everything.
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I have a question. I used to use silicone to repair probe spots and other types of splice joints. Usually did not see the same unit twice. Does the ingredients in RTV cause problems versus the liquid electrical tape. Also used to work on multiplexing electrical systems and moisture in a lighting socket would act like a ground fault. The difference in the power going out and the power coming back would tell the module to cut power to everything.
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Medic
I've never had to use a wire fault finder. yet! It's my understanding that the end on the opposite side of where the signal injector is connected needs to be grounded for proper detection of the open part of the wire. When I end up needing to do that i will try to ground the end and see if it works.
If one of y'all have the opportunity to try it. see if grounding end works.
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I've never had to use a wire fault finder. yet! It's my understanding that the end on the opposite side of where the signal injector is connected needs to be grounded for proper detection of the open part of the wire. When I end up needing to do that i will try to ground the end and see if it works.
If one of y'all have the opportunity to try it. see if grounding end works.
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Mark
It's not boring at all it's informative, what i find is when ever i get broken wires when i strip the wires back even back as a foot either way the wires are black where water has travelled down the wire so then trying to solder a splice wire in is a pain in the whoha so have to scrape the wires to try any get a bit of copper colour so the solder takes to the crusty wire.
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It's not boring at all it's informative, what i find is when ever i get broken wires when i strip the wires back even back as a foot either way the wires are black where water has travelled down the wire so then trying to solder a splice wire in is a pain in the whoha so have to scrape the wires to try any get a bit of copper colour so the solder takes to the crusty wire.
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John
We. are your Youtube weirdo's. and we likes our hour long broken wire videos! ;p
In all seriousness though, I find this more interesting than Scan, test, replace module/sensor/actuator e. t. c. because we get to see the actual point of failure. If it's a bad component it often just goes in the bin with it's mysteries intact hahaha
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We. are your Youtube weirdo's. and we likes our hour long broken wire videos! ;p
In all seriousness though, I find this more interesting than Scan, test, replace module/sensor/actuator e. t. c. because we get to see the actual point of failure. If it's a bad component it often just goes in the bin with it's mysteries intact hahaha
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jeffboyer39
I have done this before only on a chevy venture van to find out under the driver's seat there's no protection to the wires going through the body. So to my disappointment I got to rewire the entire plug in 10 degree temps & silver solder didn't do so well.
Got it done and ran well!
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I have done this before only on a chevy venture van to find out under the driver's seat there's no protection to the wires going through the body. So to my disappointment I got to rewire the entire plug in 10 degree temps & silver solder didn't do so well.
Got it done and ran well!
reply
Fred
Ive got this same problem going on now on a 2014 F150, no power to FPCM. It started out intermittent, only when driven in the rain. Left me stranded a few days ago with a crank no start, P025A fault code. Im guessing its a similar case of green crusties in the harness somewhere.
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Ive got this same problem going on now on a 2014 F150, no power to FPCM. It started out intermittent, only when driven in the rain. Left me stranded a few days ago with a crank no start, P025A fault code. Im guessing its a similar case of green crusties in the harness somewhere.
reply
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