
What's Inside: 1/2 Air Impact Edition
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Jason
Have rebuilt this platform since the early 90s. That 3 piece gasket is starts as one pinched between the hammer housing and spacer that is pressed fit into the housing. The air vane cylinder is best left in when removing the rotor to keep the lower end plate aligned to the housing bore and will assist on reassembly. If you really wanted to wake this thing up remove the e clip from the rotor end plate remove the bearing lap both end plates with 300 grit on a flat surface to remove any grooves finish with a 600 grit. Then use a wheel cylinder hone to clean up the vane cylinder take the vanes to the 300 grit and lightly clean the seal surface. A couple drops of 10w30 on the bearings reassemble dry. Now you have to seat in the vanes WD40 with a straw applicator a light squirt into the air inlet. Hook up a regulated air line or or one with a tap. Plastic tie the trigger full open put it in a vice or lay it on the floor 40 psi or mid throttle let it rip 5 min in fwd then in reverse. Now the vanes are seated give a light dose of air tool oil 3 to 4 drops and continue to do that over oiling the tool will degrade the performance then grease the hammer push the drive into the tool grease the tool until the drive pushes forward then stop you can actually over do it and tool performance will suffer. Now your IR is better than new. 300 ft lbs now 400 ft lbs.
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Have rebuilt this platform since the early 90s. That 3 piece gasket is starts as one pinched between the hammer housing and spacer that is pressed fit into the housing. The air vane cylinder is best left in when removing the rotor to keep the lower end plate aligned to the housing bore and will assist on reassembly. If you really wanted to wake this thing up remove the e clip from the rotor end plate remove the bearing lap both end plates with 300 grit on a flat surface to remove any grooves finish with a 600 grit. Then use a wheel cylinder hone to clean up the vane cylinder take the vanes to the 300 grit and lightly clean the seal surface. A couple drops of 10w30 on the bearings reassemble dry. Now you have to seat in the vanes WD40 with a straw applicator a light squirt into the air inlet. Hook up a regulated air line or or one with a tap. Plastic tie the trigger full open put it in a vice or lay it on the floor 40 psi or mid throttle let it rip 5 min in fwd then in reverse. Now the vanes are seated give a light dose of air tool oil 3 to 4 drops and continue to do that over oiling the tool will degrade the performance then grease the hammer push the drive into the tool grease the tool until the drive pushes forward then stop you can actually over do it and tool performance will suffer. Now your IR is better than new. 300 ft lbs now 400 ft lbs.
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Kevin
When I bought my first new air tools, I bought all IR, mostly because the older mechanic who was kind enough to mentor me had a full set of IR tools that he bought when he first got started decades ago and they all still worked. The company has been around forever and all the parts to rebuild them are still available. The only time I've had to crack any of them open is because an old shop that I used to work at used line oilers and filled them with Marvel Mystery Oil. The ingredients are a mystery to me, but they made all the seals in all my air tools swell to the point of no air getting past the triggers, so I had to replace the gaskets and o-rings in all of them. But that was about 13 years ago now, and they all still work beautifully after receiving daily beatings.
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When I bought my first new air tools, I bought all IR, mostly because the older mechanic who was kind enough to mentor me had a full set of IR tools that he bought when he first got started decades ago and they all still worked. The company has been around forever and all the parts to rebuild them are still available. The only time I've had to crack any of them open is because an old shop that I used to work at used line oilers and filled them with Marvel Mystery Oil. The ingredients are a mystery to me, but they made all the seals in all my air tools swell to the point of no air getting past the triggers, so I had to replace the gaskets and o-rings in all of them. But that was about 13 years ago now, and they all still work beautifully after receiving daily beatings.
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Patrick94GSR
My IR impact gun looks exactly like that one, except with a rubber cover over the handle. Often wondered what it looked like on the inside. It's been a great gun over the past 15 years of my intermittent DIY auto repair uses. My only beef with it is the torque adjustment that's built into the reverse switch. I like having the reverse torque up high and the forward torque down low (breaking lug nuts free vs. installing them lightly before using a torque wrench, and when I adjust the setting for one direction, it seems to change the setting for the other direction as well.
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My IR impact gun looks exactly like that one, except with a rubber cover over the handle. Often wondered what it looked like on the inside. It's been a great gun over the past 15 years of my intermittent DIY auto repair uses. My only beef with it is the torque adjustment that's built into the reverse switch. I like having the reverse torque up high and the forward torque down low (breaking lug nuts free vs. installing them lightly before using a torque wrench, and when I adjust the setting for one direction, it seems to change the setting for the other direction as well.
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heavymechanic2
This style impact is bulletproof, oil it often, give it a shot of grease now & then to pad the hammer parts and it will last a long time. I use the 231C and its hard to beat the price (125) and it has a decent amount of power. My first air gun was a worn out CP 741/749 before getting IR 231/261. The vane kit is fairly inexpensive, the hammer kit seems to cost as much as a new tool LOL The new tool is imported but still quite reliable.
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This style impact is bulletproof, oil it often, give it a shot of grease now & then to pad the hammer parts and it will last a long time. I use the 231C and its hard to beat the price (125) and it has a decent amount of power. My first air gun was a worn out CP 741/749 before getting IR 231/261. The vane kit is fairly inexpensive, the hammer kit seems to cost as much as a new tool LOL The new tool is imported but still quite reliable.
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Sheehy
Little trick I learned, if you put it back together and it stops working, hook the anvil up to a drill and spin it over for a little while, then set it to the same direction and pull the trigger, it should start running by itself. Leave it like that for a little while and you should be good to go.
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Little trick I learned, if you put it back together and it stops working, hook the anvil up to a drill and spin it over for a little while, then set it to the same direction and pull the trigger, it should start running by itself. Leave it like that for a little while and you should be good to go.
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NightForce
One of the beauties of creating a video of the disassembly is if something doesn't go right, meaning I forgot, I can quickly replay it and figure out where I went wrong!
Another great video and narration by Eric at South Main Auto Repair!
Thanks Again!
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One of the beauties of creating a video of the disassembly is if something doesn't go right, meaning I forgot, I can quickly replay it and figure out where I went wrong!
Another great video and narration by Eric at South Main Auto Repair!
Thanks Again!
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art
My dad always used I. R. When I went to work that's what I bought. Still have my first impact. Only thing I changed has been the anvil. did it about like you did. i never had good luck with air ratchets. Once worn out toss and buy a new I. R. Thanks for sharing.
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My dad always used I. R. When I went to work that's what I bought. Still have my first impact. Only thing I changed has been the anvil. did it about like you did. i never had good luck with air ratchets. Once worn out toss and buy a new I. R. Thanks for sharing.
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Justin
Those plastic parts are called Vanes. Just like a air/vacuum pump. usually made out of carbon and expensive, they wear kind of like brushes on a motor. But that is for pumps, I'm not sure about an air motor. cool video, never took one of my impacts apart.
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Those plastic parts are called Vanes. Just like a air/vacuum pump. usually made out of carbon and expensive, they wear kind of like brushes on a motor. But that is for pumps, I'm not sure about an air motor. cool video, never took one of my impacts apart.
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Rob
Surprised to see it has plastic vanes. Have an old one that has steel ones. But, oh well, if they last a while, sealing the off the incoming air without wearing out, guess that's good enough.
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Surprised to see it has plastic vanes. Have an old one that has steel ones. But, oh well, if they last a while, sealing the off the incoming air without wearing out, guess that's good enough.
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leonardc22
This video was funny. Just imagine astro hiring you. Day 1 you the only one banging things around on the table making all kind of noise and everybody just looking at you
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This video was funny. Just imagine astro hiring you. Day 1 you the only one banging things around on the table making all kind of noise and everybody just looking at you
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