How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Top 10 Brake Job Tips
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Date: 2021-02-01
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Comments and reviews: 10
RubiconKLBRUTO
Ths 4 very important tips SHOULD BE listed on the top ); my thanks by listing extemely IMPORTANT safty, essential first aid kit and mask all should be must next to tool easy n quick access in case an injury that happens often for all of us DYS folks like me: The following essential items in ANY order: TIP 1-A: Meaning BEFORE break job or ANY auto job, SHOULD be pointed out even though it is obvious! ALL are important in ANY order for the following safty essential items indeed! : 1) Safety glass even over Ur regular yes glass, should be clean glass or better new one ) or NEW safety glass, cz Ur eyes is SUPER more important then lousy few bucks! 1-2-A: Have quality rubber glove protect Ur precious hands! 1-3-A: MUST wear mask, to protect 'inhaling-very harmful-mist from break cleaner or any auto part cleaner spraies, that shoud prevent dirty dusts and chemical mists that will most likely enter INTO your lungs)-without good maks like N-95 type mask. U know all that harmful consequences. Again, recommend N-95-type mask that seals better n preventing harmful chemical mists, n dirty dust from all that rusted auto parts, N-95 mask fts better n less likely broke off ear loops ); sound protections from very dangerous auto parts rust dusts n spray mists. Also, sealing well type mask like N-95 mask less likely creating fog in Ur eye n safty glass! 1-4-A: Highly recommend hydrogen proxicide to kill germs in case ur likely either hands or fingers, First Aid antibiotic oniments 2-most familiar names I can think of are: Polysporin (slightly more antibacterial amout indicated n cost a slighty more) or Neosporin, both are sufficient: Quality and over sized bandates. Clearn cloth to wipe out dirts, blood from any wounds. In this way, small injuries happens all the time, just COLD fact, so better have this emergency first aid at your side if N when U need! West of USA!
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Ths 4 very important tips SHOULD BE listed on the top ); my thanks by listing extemely IMPORTANT safty, essential first aid kit and mask all should be must next to tool easy n quick access in case an injury that happens often for all of us DYS folks like me: The following essential items in ANY order: TIP 1-A: Meaning BEFORE break job or ANY auto job, SHOULD be pointed out even though it is obvious! ALL are important in ANY order for the following safty essential items indeed! : 1) Safety glass even over Ur regular yes glass, should be clean glass or better new one ) or NEW safety glass, cz Ur eyes is SUPER more important then lousy few bucks! 1-2-A: Have quality rubber glove protect Ur precious hands! 1-3-A: MUST wear mask, to protect 'inhaling-very harmful-mist from break cleaner or any auto part cleaner spraies, that shoud prevent dirty dusts and chemical mists that will most likely enter INTO your lungs)-without good maks like N-95 type mask. U know all that harmful consequences. Again, recommend N-95-type mask that seals better n preventing harmful chemical mists, n dirty dust from all that rusted auto parts, N-95 mask fts better n less likely broke off ear loops ); sound protections from very dangerous auto parts rust dusts n spray mists. Also, sealing well type mask like N-95 mask less likely creating fog in Ur eye n safty glass! 1-4-A: Highly recommend hydrogen proxicide to kill germs in case ur likely either hands or fingers, First Aid antibiotic oniments 2-most familiar names I can think of are: Polysporin (slightly more antibacterial amout indicated n cost a slighty more) or Neosporin, both are sufficient: Quality and over sized bandates. Clearn cloth to wipe out dirts, blood from any wounds. In this way, small injuries happens all the time, just COLD fact, so better have this emergency first aid at your side if N when U need! West of USA!
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44
A better lube for those pens is the CRC black brake Lube, by far. It's also a great brake lube for those contact points that the cabs have on the caliper.
Brake rotors a lot easier to clean if you spray the brake clean on the cloth or towel that you're using, and then wipe the rotor down.
Anti seize on the Hub face should be a requirement. It also belongs on the lugs and on the face of the lug nuts.
When you break in the new pads on the new rotors you take it out and you find a nice empty spot of road for your running close to 50 miles an hour and without lifting your foot off of the gas pedal you slow the car down to about 20 miles an hour about three or four times and get the primary resin off of the face of the pads. After you've done that several times, then you drive the car for about 10 minutes so that the rotors can cool back down and you will not get that resin induced brake squeal. Especially on breaks like the Akebono which were horrible at doing that.
I also tend to take brake caliper paint and at least paint the inside and outside of the rotor hat. It helps keep them from rusting very much and I also like to clean and paint the calipers themselves. They look better and it's a lot easier to on the eyes.
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A better lube for those pens is the CRC black brake Lube, by far. It's also a great brake lube for those contact points that the cabs have on the caliper.
Brake rotors a lot easier to clean if you spray the brake clean on the cloth or towel that you're using, and then wipe the rotor down.
Anti seize on the Hub face should be a requirement. It also belongs on the lugs and on the face of the lug nuts.
When you break in the new pads on the new rotors you take it out and you find a nice empty spot of road for your running close to 50 miles an hour and without lifting your foot off of the gas pedal you slow the car down to about 20 miles an hour about three or four times and get the primary resin off of the face of the pads. After you've done that several times, then you drive the car for about 10 minutes so that the rotors can cool back down and you will not get that resin induced brake squeal. Especially on breaks like the Akebono which were horrible at doing that.
I also tend to take brake caliper paint and at least paint the inside and outside of the rotor hat. It helps keep them from rusting very much and I also like to clean and paint the calipers themselves. They look better and it's a lot easier to on the eyes.
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autos
1. Turn steering wheel for access
2. Grease guide pins silicone paste
3. Dont hang caliper from Brake Line
4. Clean new brake rotor
5. Wire brush rust from hub, apply anti sieze to hub
6. Use a lug nut to hold disc when refitting disk
7. Clean brake piston before pushing back in
8. Bleed brakes
9. Get pads with wear indicators
10. Clean rotor again before fitting wheels
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1. Turn steering wheel for access
2. Grease guide pins silicone paste
3. Dont hang caliper from Brake Line
4. Clean new brake rotor
5. Wire brush rust from hub, apply anti sieze to hub
6. Use a lug nut to hold disc when refitting disk
7. Clean brake piston before pushing back in
8. Bleed brakes
9. Get pads with wear indicators
10. Clean rotor again before fitting wheels
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Fermin
Hey Chris, I noticed on the brake videos you posted you often brush the calipers and brake components. I've read that this is terrible as it causes all the brake dust to go into the air. isnt that bad for your lungs? Or is it safe now that asbestos usage has mostly ceased in brake components? I cant really find good info on this so I thought I'd ask you.
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Hey Chris, I noticed on the brake videos you posted you often brush the calipers and brake components. I've read that this is terrible as it causes all the brake dust to go into the air. isnt that bad for your lungs? Or is it safe now that asbestos usage has mostly ceased in brake components? I cant really find good info on this so I thought I'd ask you.
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John
Chris, Thanks for the video. In the old days I use to just loosen the master cylinder cap when I depressed the caliper back in. I am going to attempt (myself) to replace my front rotors and brake pads for the 1st time in many years. Can I still use the same method that I use in the past when compressing the caliper years ago? I have a 2005 Elantra. Thanks
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Chris, Thanks for the video. In the old days I use to just loosen the master cylinder cap when I depressed the caliper back in. I am going to attempt (myself) to replace my front rotors and brake pads for the 1st time in many years. Can I still use the same method that I use in the past when compressing the caliper years ago? I have a 2005 Elantra. Thanks
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peter
I got a question. I did the brake bleeding on my car and was perfect. But I think the brake pedal is too soft or low when I press it. How can I make the brake pedal to not be so low. It works and the car stops but the pedal is low. I also have to say I have repair my car and a friend's car watching your videos. Thank you!
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I got a question. I did the brake bleeding on my car and was perfect. But I think the brake pedal is too soft or low when I press it. How can I make the brake pedal to not be so low. It works and the car stops but the pedal is low. I also have to say I have repair my car and a friend's car watching your videos. Thank you!
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Mike
i went for a inspection and the mechanic said that the front brake pads were put on wrong, he said that there is inboard and outboard and they were on backwards or something like that? so he said i have to have them flipped around? can someone please explain this to me? my car is a 2011 chevy aveo 5 lt 1. 6
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i went for a inspection and the mechanic said that the front brake pads were put on wrong, he said that there is inboard and outboard and they were on backwards or something like that? so he said i have to have them flipped around? can someone please explain this to me? my car is a 2011 chevy aveo 5 lt 1. 6
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Creative
Ive always put anti sieze behind rotors but theres a lot of people hung up against that. They say that the anti sieze acts as a lubricant and reduces the friction between the hub and caliper. That puts more stress on the lugs when you brake heavy or burnout me can break them. anyone else heard this
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Ive always put anti sieze behind rotors but theres a lot of people hung up against that. They say that the anti sieze acts as a lubricant and reduces the friction between the hub and caliper. That puts more stress on the lugs when you brake heavy or burnout me can break them. anyone else heard this
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whitegrassgmail. com
Ill give you a tip, never buy brake parts from your dealer, they are designed to deteriorate, in no time flat. Go on Amazon, and purchase Max breaks, the best brake parts in the world. They are made from quality material. Guaranteed. And they dont gauge you with the the price.
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Ill give you a tip, never buy brake parts from your dealer, they are designed to deteriorate, in no time flat. Go on Amazon, and purchase Max breaks, the best brake parts in the world. They are made from quality material. Guaranteed. And they dont gauge you with the the price.
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steelonius
This video just made me think there is no way most mechanics are going through all these steps. I'm sure they wouldn't damage anything but I doubt they nearly as thorough with cleaning around pistons or application of anti-seize. I don't know first hand. just a suspicion.
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This video just made me think there is no way most mechanics are going through all these steps. I'm sure they wouldn't damage anything but I doubt they nearly as thorough with cleaning around pistons or application of anti-seize. I don't know first hand. just a suspicion.
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