Turns out my 'super clean' Toyota MR2 turbo is a piece of.
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Date: 2020-07-07
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Comments and reviews: 10
Oikku
Quick tech tip: All Japanese, and most western cars that have drive axles sticking out directly from the gear box, are designed to drop the whole power unit for anything other than basic maintenance. Renault even has some models that need engine drop for changing the spark plugs. It is a design feature that prevents doing major work at home conditions, for safety reasons. Also, Skoda has a design feature, that rips at least one of the engine unit fastener threads every time you pull the power unit off. It's there to recognize a car that has major engine work done, like changing the clutch, or other similar stuff. These are single-use items, that are not meant to be repaired nor to stay on the road for no longer than ten years. Their designed life-span is 3, 5 to 7 years. After that they are meant to be scrapped and recycled.
So, if you think that all modern cars are crap, that's because they are. They are actually designed to brake after their warranty is closed.
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Quick tech tip: All Japanese, and most western cars that have drive axles sticking out directly from the gear box, are designed to drop the whole power unit for anything other than basic maintenance. Renault even has some models that need engine drop for changing the spark plugs. It is a design feature that prevents doing major work at home conditions, for safety reasons. Also, Skoda has a design feature, that rips at least one of the engine unit fastener threads every time you pull the power unit off. It's there to recognize a car that has major engine work done, like changing the clutch, or other similar stuff. These are single-use items, that are not meant to be repaired nor to stay on the road for no longer than ten years. Their designed life-span is 3, 5 to 7 years. After that they are meant to be scrapped and recycled.
So, if you think that all modern cars are crap, that's because they are. They are actually designed to brake after their warranty is closed.
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darek4488
What do you mean rusted? It doesn't even have a single whole in the floor and it looks mint on top. This car looks like it have seen around 2-3 full salty winters. People who have MR2s here in Poland don't even have a set of winter tires for them. People know how bad it rusts and treat it like a summer car. AFAIK Japan doesn't put salt on its roads, but someone might correct me on that. Japanese brands in general can't handle salty roads full of holes. Mazda is hands down the worst rusting brand, and that's in general, not just among Japanese. Europeans Fords, Opels and Hondas aren't much better. Mercedes had a famous rust episode in the early 2000s, when ML(W163) and S(W220) were visibly rusted in their first months. From my knowledge Subaru and Lexus are the only rust protected Japanese cars and they handle it fine. Audi is probably the king of rust protection. Even 30 year old cars are holding up fine and the new ones are even better protected.
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What do you mean rusted? It doesn't even have a single whole in the floor and it looks mint on top. This car looks like it have seen around 2-3 full salty winters. People who have MR2s here in Poland don't even have a set of winter tires for them. People know how bad it rusts and treat it like a summer car. AFAIK Japan doesn't put salt on its roads, but someone might correct me on that. Japanese brands in general can't handle salty roads full of holes. Mazda is hands down the worst rusting brand, and that's in general, not just among Japanese. Europeans Fords, Opels and Hondas aren't much better. Mercedes had a famous rust episode in the early 2000s, when ML(W163) and S(W220) were visibly rusted in their first months. From my knowledge Subaru and Lexus are the only rust protected Japanese cars and they handle it fine. Audi is probably the king of rust protection. Even 30 year old cars are holding up fine and the new ones are even better protected.
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weegaz22
I've had 2 MR2's, a 3SGTE engine'd MK1 and a MK2, they are only difficult to work on cos access to everything is harder with the engine in the middle of the car, the roof c pillars and body width don't help matters unlike a front engine'd car where you can lean over the thin sides and work from the front, they are fun cars though, but they are a pain in the tits when you have to work on them, having a lift will help out a lot, personally I'd just have dropped the engine out, that way you can do everything that needs done easily and check everything.
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I've had 2 MR2's, a 3SGTE engine'd MK1 and a MK2, they are only difficult to work on cos access to everything is harder with the engine in the middle of the car, the roof c pillars and body width don't help matters unlike a front engine'd car where you can lean over the thin sides and work from the front, they are fun cars though, but they are a pain in the tits when you have to work on them, having a lift will help out a lot, personally I'd just have dropped the engine out, that way you can do everything that needs done easily and check everything.
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Whatever493
On my '93 I remember as a kid, doing anything in the turbo region just meant pulling the exhaust then manifold/turbo/downpipe. I left all the heat shielding off and used a jethot coating to contain the heat. It worked. An ALMOST bigger reason for upgrading the exhaust, removing the cat and the aforementioned thermal coating (there were a lot of bolts holding all those heat-shields in place) was to reduce the pain in the ass of working on it.
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On my '93 I remember as a kid, doing anything in the turbo region just meant pulling the exhaust then manifold/turbo/downpipe. I left all the heat shielding off and used a jethot coating to contain the heat. It worked. An ALMOST bigger reason for upgrading the exhaust, removing the cat and the aforementioned thermal coating (there were a lot of bolts holding all those heat-shields in place) was to reduce the pain in the ass of working on it.
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Kheir112
Dude, what you guys in Australia call rust is nothing compared to what we get here in New England. When we finish a repair, we have to sweep up all the rust, sometimes up to a pound or so, and that is on cars only about ten years old or so. Thirty year old stuff, well, usually these are a disaster. Lots of penetrating oil, the hot wrench, and lots of patience is the way to go. Yeah, a Tetanus shot is a good idea too.
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Dude, what you guys in Australia call rust is nothing compared to what we get here in New England. When we finish a repair, we have to sweep up all the rust, sometimes up to a pound or so, and that is on cars only about ten years old or so. Thirty year old stuff, well, usually these are a disaster. Lots of penetrating oil, the hot wrench, and lots of patience is the way to go. Yeah, a Tetanus shot is a good idea too.
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DeepPastry
With that much rust, you've made the wrong decision. Most backyard mechanics do not have the tools and equipment to pull the engine, you did. Again, with that much rust on every nut/bolt, you should of went straight to an engine pull. Every single fastener on that engine needs inspected and replaced if needed; every single one.
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With that much rust, you've made the wrong decision. Most backyard mechanics do not have the tools and equipment to pull the engine, you did. Again, with that much rust on every nut/bolt, you should of went straight to an engine pull. Every single fastener on that engine needs inspected and replaced if needed; every single one.
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Matt
Pretty much sums up my mk1 MR2 experience. I had it for 8 years and loved it dearly, but there was no end to the worn out and rusted parts fighting you. No matter how many I replaced, there were always more. Jumping into a new car has been an amazingly fresh experience.
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Pretty much sums up my mk1 MR2 experience. I had it for 8 years and loved it dearly, but there was no end to the worn out and rusted parts fighting you. No matter how many I replaced, there were always more. Jumping into a new car has been an amazingly fresh experience.
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Player
Marty needing to invest in an induction heater! Pro tip: induction heat cycling the fasteners. Advanced tip: acetylene torch it. Rookie tip: propane torch it. Welcome to my world. The more rapid heat cycle the better. And you have to remember to let it cool first.
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Marty needing to invest in an induction heater! Pro tip: induction heat cycling the fasteners. Advanced tip: acetylene torch it. Rookie tip: propane torch it. Welcome to my world. The more rapid heat cycle the better. And you have to remember to let it cool first.
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autos
Yeap, lol. was watching going. ya know you gotta drop that A-frame down for the B-pipe. Ah yes like traveling down memory road, as I've literally done all that same stuff to my garage kept Mr2MkII Turbo! After a while you learn all the tricks for working on 'em.
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Yeap, lol. was watching going. ya know you gotta drop that A-frame down for the B-pipe. Ah yes like traveling down memory road, as I've literally done all that same stuff to my garage kept Mr2MkII Turbo! After a while you learn all the tricks for working on 'em.
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quinnjim
Going out of his way to replace parts that aren't THAT rusty.
I had an Illinois car down in Texas once. It needed some work and the mechanic said my car had rusted away and I needed to bring it to the junk yard. Drove it for another 8 years. It was fine.
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Going out of his way to replace parts that aren't THAT rusty.
I had an Illinois car down in Texas once. It needed some work and the mechanic said my car had rusted away and I needed to bring it to the junk yard. Drove it for another 8 years. It was fine.
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