Snowshoe Hare Rabbit Snaring on Trail Camera - Part I
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Date: 2021-05-17
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Comments and reviews: 10
John
For the Alone show, making it to the first snow without losing body weight is the key to winning. If you've caught 20lbs of fish (average per day) and harvested 6 lbs of cambium per day, for 6 weeks, you'll win. Fish traps made of netting will let you do that. You only have to service them once a day and that means you have all day to harvest cambium. You're just not going to harvest enough game (with a bow and cordage) in deep snow or thru thick ice, to get back more calories than you spend. Ditto the cambium, once there's deep snow and hard frozen bark. You might arrow or trap the occasional critter, with -box- traps made of netting. Such traps are not hard to make and they are easily moved, if you put down a layer of sticks under them, so that the netting doesn't freeze to the ground. Once again, have lots of traps, but keep them within a 50 m circle of your camp. you are unlikely to have anything but cambium for rabbit bait, which is a problem. Best not eat the gorp, if at all possible.
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For the Alone show, making it to the first snow without losing body weight is the key to winning. If you've caught 20lbs of fish (average per day) and harvested 6 lbs of cambium per day, for 6 weeks, you'll win. Fish traps made of netting will let you do that. You only have to service them once a day and that means you have all day to harvest cambium. You're just not going to harvest enough game (with a bow and cordage) in deep snow or thru thick ice, to get back more calories than you spend. Ditto the cambium, once there's deep snow and hard frozen bark. You might arrow or trap the occasional critter, with -box- traps made of netting. Such traps are not hard to make and they are easily moved, if you put down a layer of sticks under them, so that the netting doesn't freeze to the ground. Once again, have lots of traps, but keep them within a 50 m circle of your camp. you are unlikely to have anything but cambium for rabbit bait, which is a problem. Best not eat the gorp, if at all possible.
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John
why is there no -fence- of materials forcing the prey to go where you want it? As a kid, using just one -box- trap made of boards, I caught several rabbits each winter and several groundhogs each summer. I had a spyhole at the back of the trap, and one time, a chuck almost gnawed his way out of the back end. I had to replace the board. A double layer of 1- netting would hold a rabbit for quite a while and he'd probably never figure out to gnaw on the sides. So making the back end and -door- out of sticks or split wood would probably suffice. Tougher critters, you'd have to arrange either an impalement device, something as an engine- to lift trap and all into the air, or a noisemaker to tell you when dinner was served. This sort of thing would be either for the Alone tv show, or you'd have snare wire/cable, not just cordage available to you
reply
why is there no -fence- of materials forcing the prey to go where you want it? As a kid, using just one -box- trap made of boards, I caught several rabbits each winter and several groundhogs each summer. I had a spyhole at the back of the trap, and one time, a chuck almost gnawed his way out of the back end. I had to replace the board. A double layer of 1- netting would hold a rabbit for quite a while and he'd probably never figure out to gnaw on the sides. So making the back end and -door- out of sticks or split wood would probably suffice. Tougher critters, you'd have to arrange either an impalement device, something as an engine- to lift trap and all into the air, or a noisemaker to tell you when dinner was served. This sort of thing would be either for the Alone tv show, or you'd have snare wire/cable, not just cordage available to you
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Stan
i usually just try to have a twig or stick on either side of a bigger set slip that helps it from swinging in either direction, also have the slip sat that the loop is pretty much touching the branch that it is tightly tied to as in dont have a straight piece of wire even a few inches before the loop if that makes sense lol i suck at explaining things pretty much dont have any of the wire straight at all just tied tightly to the branch and the loop pretty much meeting with were you tied it to the branch. Cool footage! also old smart rabbits have been known to kick out the slip with there back foot they are pretty smart at times lol cheers
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i usually just try to have a twig or stick on either side of a bigger set slip that helps it from swinging in either direction, also have the slip sat that the loop is pretty much touching the branch that it is tightly tied to as in dont have a straight piece of wire even a few inches before the loop if that makes sense lol i suck at explaining things pretty much dont have any of the wire straight at all just tied tightly to the branch and the loop pretty much meeting with were you tied it to the branch. Cool footage! also old smart rabbits have been known to kick out the slip with there back foot they are pretty smart at times lol cheers
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Savannah
We used to raise rabbits and we ended up -free ranging- them. They are extremely hard to catch, I ended up starting to chase them into snares and quickly getting the rope off and putting them back in a cage. Would state laws on snare trapping prevent me from legally trapping rabbits that are on our property and we raised? Or do the laws refer to only WILD rabbits and not domestic rabbits?
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We used to raise rabbits and we ended up -free ranging- them. They are extremely hard to catch, I ended up starting to chase them into snares and quickly getting the rope off and putting them back in a cage. Would state laws on snare trapping prevent me from legally trapping rabbits that are on our property and we raised? Or do the laws refer to only WILD rabbits and not domestic rabbits?
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Clint
Super helpful video on their behaviour out there. You can actually use a pretty big snare and it works quite well, it's really the height of the snare at that point that matters. Catch him under the chin. Use a bit of brush around it and over top of the snare helps too, they kind of push through without thinking when there's a little tunnel. I've caught quite a few of these buggers
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Super helpful video on their behaviour out there. You can actually use a pretty big snare and it works quite well, it's really the height of the snare at that point that matters. Catch him under the chin. Use a bit of brush around it and over top of the snare helps too, they kind of push through without thinking when there's a little tunnel. I've caught quite a few of these buggers
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downeast
I'm going out on a limb. 5-6- loop and 5 maybe 6 inches off the pathway. Wire can be tied to a vertical tree and hung straight out or below an overhanging tree/branch. A light 18 gauge wire can be doubled up and twisted will hold what ever shape you want it to take on. Gate it with spruce or fir tips, but sometimes just in the open and on a beat will do fine.
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I'm going out on a limb. 5-6- loop and 5 maybe 6 inches off the pathway. Wire can be tied to a vertical tree and hung straight out or below an overhanging tree/branch. A light 18 gauge wire can be doubled up and twisted will hold what ever shape you want it to take on. Gate it with spruce or fir tips, but sometimes just in the open and on a beat will do fine.
reply
John
it's not surviving the winter that you have to worry about, really. If you've eaten 4 lbs of fish per day and 2 lbs of cambium also, all fall and have a 100 lb stockpile of dried fish and cambium chips, you'll win. Taking the paracord hammock and paracord gillnet and knowing how to convert them into single strand netting, that's the key to winning the challenge.
reply
it's not surviving the winter that you have to worry about, really. If you've eaten 4 lbs of fish per day and 2 lbs of cambium also, all fall and have a 100 lb stockpile of dried fish and cambium chips, you'll win. Taking the paracord hammock and paracord gillnet and knowing how to convert them into single strand netting, that's the key to winning the challenge.
reply
Fred
As previously stated, this is great stuff. Even though the taxonomic reference is Lepus americanus, I'd differentiate and refer to it as Lepus canadiensis. The next problem is linguistic; Hare a snowshoe snare, or Share a hoesnoe snare. Anyway the waskelly wabbit got away. Something to consider in another challenge.
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As previously stated, this is great stuff. Even though the taxonomic reference is Lepus americanus, I'd differentiate and refer to it as Lepus canadiensis. The next problem is linguistic; Hare a snowshoe snare, or Share a hoesnoe snare. Anyway the waskelly wabbit got away. Something to consider in another challenge.
reply
sebastien
Your snare must not be so easy to move it should be more stiff then that and try to put more sticks to the side of your snare to wall off any other possible way of passing without getting caught. And last but not least try putting a double set in other words put one on top of another that always works for me.
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Your snare must not be so easy to move it should be more stiff then that and try to put more sticks to the side of your snare to wall off any other possible way of passing without getting caught. And last but not least try putting a double set in other words put one on top of another that always works for me.
reply
CanadianBushman
Great footage! I used to double the wire so it was very stiff, used a fairly large loop with eye twisted back on itself to it would lock and much more lane restriction as well as very secure post or tree to hold snare when under strain - remember when it is really cold the branches freeze and snap.
reply
Great footage! I used to double the wire so it was very stiff, used a fairly large loop with eye twisted back on itself to it would lock and much more lane restriction as well as very secure post or tree to hold snare when under strain - remember when it is really cold the branches freeze and snap.
reply
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