AMD Threadripper CPU Lapping & LN2 Prep, ft. Bearded Hardware & 3970X
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Date: 2020-05-06
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Comments and reviews: 10
GoblinPhreak
barely any pressure is why it takes him an hour. because there are no pins, you could literally just push down and be done in minutes. the whole point of flat and even as long as the sand paper in this sense on the desk is flat, then sanding it will be flat regardless. unless you hold the chip at an angle like an idiot. you also don't have to do figure 8's. if you want a better finish, you want to use higher grit sand paper. start off with 400, then move to 800, then 1000, then 1500. depending on the finish you want. on that note, I can see why they say lapping is great for all thermals even regular overclocking on regular cooling solutions, you use SHIT PASTE. I went and tested the thermal grizzly shitty kryonaut. and its the worst paste ive ever tried. I even tried a second tube from another e-tailer and it was still shit. you can get better thermals using arctic silver 5, granted AS5 also has a 50-200 hour burn in as per website in order for it to get its best results. so for assholes like steve who did paste tests, where he just apply's the paste then tests, hes not doing it justice at all. in my own tests, both pastes applied to the same cpu using the same cooler, yada yada yada, including a break in period for both pastes in order to get proper results, AS5 was 7c cooler than kyronaut. but steve will never actually properly test pastes and do their recommended break in period, which less than a handful of pastes have (some are no longer on the market.
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barely any pressure is why it takes him an hour. because there are no pins, you could literally just push down and be done in minutes. the whole point of flat and even as long as the sand paper in this sense on the desk is flat, then sanding it will be flat regardless. unless you hold the chip at an angle like an idiot. you also don't have to do figure 8's. if you want a better finish, you want to use higher grit sand paper. start off with 400, then move to 800, then 1000, then 1500. depending on the finish you want. on that note, I can see why they say lapping is great for all thermals even regular overclocking on regular cooling solutions, you use SHIT PASTE. I went and tested the thermal grizzly shitty kryonaut. and its the worst paste ive ever tried. I even tried a second tube from another e-tailer and it was still shit. you can get better thermals using arctic silver 5, granted AS5 also has a 50-200 hour burn in as per website in order for it to get its best results. so for assholes like steve who did paste tests, where he just apply's the paste then tests, hes not doing it justice at all. in my own tests, both pastes applied to the same cpu using the same cooler, yada yada yada, including a break in period for both pastes in order to get proper results, AS5 was 7c cooler than kyronaut. but steve will never actually properly test pastes and do their recommended break in period, which less than a handful of pastes have (some are no longer on the market.
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Guest
You are so triggering my OCD. If you wish to do it correctly you start out with a 4 inch solid granite machinist block that is certified flat. You never ever tape sandpaper down you use a thin liquid underneath it and use a roller to force out any air pockets and excess liquid. When it is right you will not be able to move the sandpaper you will have to peel it up. This keeps the sandpaper from puckering on the leading edge of what you are standing. You never ever hold the CPU by the edges you only use one finger in the dead center so that you are not applying downward force to any of the outside edges unevenly. Okay so the only reason I know this is because when I lapped my CPU I got the advice of one of our machinists at work.
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You are so triggering my OCD. If you wish to do it correctly you start out with a 4 inch solid granite machinist block that is certified flat. You never ever tape sandpaper down you use a thin liquid underneath it and use a roller to force out any air pockets and excess liquid. When it is right you will not be able to move the sandpaper you will have to peel it up. This keeps the sandpaper from puckering on the leading edge of what you are standing. You never ever hold the CPU by the edges you only use one finger in the dead center so that you are not applying downward force to any of the outside edges unevenly. Okay so the only reason I know this is because when I lapped my CPU I got the advice of one of our machinists at work.
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Google
I've lapped some different surfaces in my life and I would not say it's hard to destroy the surface. In my experience it's actually pretty hard not to destroy the surface. What tends to happen with a small brick like this is you apply more pressure where your fingers are, meaning the edges. So as you sand it, you will create a convex surface, even though you might be thinking it was just the edges that were high to begin with. Add to that the miniscule potential gains to be made from this and it's just a ridiculous waste of time.
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I've lapped some different surfaces in my life and I would not say it's hard to destroy the surface. In my experience it's actually pretty hard not to destroy the surface. What tends to happen with a small brick like this is you apply more pressure where your fingers are, meaning the edges. So as you sand it, you will create a convex surface, even though you might be thinking it was just the edges that were high to begin with. Add to that the miniscule potential gains to be made from this and it's just a ridiculous waste of time.
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ISOHaven
you really need to look at core to core deltas. still doesn't mean squat if I'm getting the same exact number of frames in my games or it still takes exactly 10. 37 minutes to encode the same exact video I benched with. But look, my CPU is running. 1 degree cooler. Yay! ;p I'm surprised people aren't trying to kill2birds with one stone and sell verified IHS' that are already good to go so people can delid and lap without lapping all in one shot.
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you really need to look at core to core deltas. still doesn't mean squat if I'm getting the same exact number of frames in my games or it still takes exactly 10. 37 minutes to encode the same exact video I benched with. But look, my CPU is running. 1 degree cooler. Yay! ;p I'm surprised people aren't trying to kill2birds with one stone and sell verified IHS' that are already good to go so people can delid and lap without lapping all in one shot.
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PCUser1024
Since you're doing this by hand, whetstones (by Shapton, for example, are artificially made with tight tolerance on the grit size deviation) are what you need. Those who do knife sharpening would have some lying around. and way flatter, up to 30, 000+ grit. If you want to take this to the next level, there's precision lapping services. precision being the operative word. Look those up.
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Since you're doing this by hand, whetstones (by Shapton, for example, are artificially made with tight tolerance on the grit size deviation) are what you need. Those who do knife sharpening would have some lying around. and way flatter, up to 30, 000+ grit. If you want to take this to the next level, there's precision lapping services. precision being the operative word. Look those up.
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Robert
Dude. sand wet. I don't know what that spray is but it's not helping you, it's actually evaporating into a goo that keeps the dust caking into the sand paper. Go to as FINE a polish as you can. scratching it up doesn't make any sense. You don't need adhesion, you need flat. I don't lap CPUs but i've got a decade in the jewelry business and i do a lot of wet sanding. SAND WET.
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Dude. sand wet. I don't know what that spray is but it's not helping you, it's actually evaporating into a goo that keeps the dust caking into the sand paper. Go to as FINE a polish as you can. scratching it up doesn't make any sense. You don't need adhesion, you need flat. I don't lap CPUs but i've got a decade in the jewelry business and i do a lot of wet sanding. SAND WET.
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Wonder
Suggestion for taping your sandpaper down: First lay down a piece of tape on glass, then super glue the paper down to the tape. Maintains your flat surface, holds super strong, and comes back up relatively easily. Also, for holding parts, or anything else, you can use tape on the surface, and the part, with superglue in the middle for an ultra-thin two sided tape.
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Suggestion for taping your sandpaper down: First lay down a piece of tape on glass, then super glue the paper down to the tape. Maintains your flat surface, holds super strong, and comes back up relatively easily. Also, for holding parts, or anything else, you can use tape on the surface, and the part, with superglue in the middle for an ultra-thin two sided tape.
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Michael
If you've done this before you'll also note that the flatter the top of the chip is, the more prone it is to hydro-locking on the heatsync. I do on-site OEM Certified repair and there's a big difference from one chip to another. Older dryer thermal compound can also make a difference, but often the hydro-lock will force a pinned CPU out of it's socket.
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If you've done this before you'll also note that the flatter the top of the chip is, the more prone it is to hydro-locking on the heatsync. I do on-site OEM Certified repair and there's a big difference from one chip to another. Older dryer thermal compound can also make a difference, but often the hydro-lock will force a pinned CPU out of it's socket.
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Custom
I just lapped my girlfriend's CPU last night then filled up her pot with LN2 and she overclocked my RAM by forcing my firmware into her BIOS. It definitely wasn't a clean install because I throttled her cache until I overheated her front side bus, but I applied more thermal paste to her heatsink and liquid cooled her so it's all good now!
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I just lapped my girlfriend's CPU last night then filled up her pot with LN2 and she overclocked my RAM by forcing my firmware into her BIOS. It definitely wasn't a clean install because I throttled her cache until I overheated her front side bus, but I applied more thermal paste to her heatsink and liquid cooled her so it's all good now!
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Robert
Instead of Liquid Nitrogen gas for Supercooling have you tried Liquid Argon gas. It is about the same price and is widely available. Ar is a Nobel non-reactive gas, but Nitrogen can oxidize or react with your metal. It will chill a few Degrees lower than Nitrogen and will not leak as much as Helium or Neon.
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Instead of Liquid Nitrogen gas for Supercooling have you tried Liquid Argon gas. It is about the same price and is widely available. Ar is a Nobel non-reactive gas, but Nitrogen can oxidize or react with your metal. It will chill a few Degrees lower than Nitrogen and will not leak as much as Helium or Neon.
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