Part 2: Cyberpunk 2077 PC Case Mod, Sketchy Water Cooling, & Fire
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Date: 2020-06-30
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Comments and reviews: 10
JETWTF
About the chain, a lighter chain that's longer is far better. You want to mar the surface, put surface dents and dings into it without distorting the panel itself. 1/8 thick links is what you want at maximum, not 1/2 inch+. Lighter = more control. Then you want some length to the chain, between 2 and 3 feet is good. You can choke up on it or hold it at the end for different variety of hits. Old and rusty chain is always better.. older and rustier the better. Rusting causes pitting and distorts the shape of the links if it is rather severe, that's good for adding age/damage to a new item but if no old is available new works too just not as good.
How to use the chain is first start with light strikes and varying the angle of the strike and the direction, whack the everloving crap out of it at this stage and try to cover the whole thing from different directions and angles but don't hit hard. The whole surface should have random damage that's not really easily visible unless viewed from an angle. Next stage is double the intensity of the strikes but far less strikes and again from random directions and angles. Last stage is going to town and whacking it as hard as you can from a different direction and angle and chocking up/down on the chain for differing effects but again far less strikes than the previous stage. Finished panel should not be distorted and no longer fit but should look worn and beaten up... by a chain from hell and 100 years of abuse.
But that's half the gambit, those are uniform dents and dings. You need to follow up with some jagged rocks to add rough gouges and scratches. Get a 5 lb. round river rock and whack it hard with a sledgehammer to break it into pieces. Small skipping stone pieces throw at the panel like you are a major league pitcher and work your way up from light and small to heavy and large while lowering the throw speed each step up to never throwing but lightly bashing. Remember marring the surface rather than distorting. If you have a stone feature for your garden and those rocks are jagged but too light to distort the panel... use those instead of a broken river rock.
The jagged edge rock stage adds jagged edged random scratches, dings, dents, and cuts into the panel that breaks up the more uniform thrice chain beating. Practice on some sheet metal and get an idea of how much of each stage is needed to get the desired effect. Change it up and use a jagged stone edge to make a long warbling scratch. Bundle the chain into a pile and throw as hard as you can at the panel if the panel can take it. Hell skip the panel down a rough gravel road to start it all. You can get positively ancient looking or very recent battle damage in metal panels with an old rusty chain and some jagged rocks used to mar the surface. Randomization and a little creativity is all that's needed.
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About the chain, a lighter chain that's longer is far better. You want to mar the surface, put surface dents and dings into it without distorting the panel itself. 1/8 thick links is what you want at maximum, not 1/2 inch+. Lighter = more control. Then you want some length to the chain, between 2 and 3 feet is good. You can choke up on it or hold it at the end for different variety of hits. Old and rusty chain is always better.. older and rustier the better. Rusting causes pitting and distorts the shape of the links if it is rather severe, that's good for adding age/damage to a new item but if no old is available new works too just not as good.
How to use the chain is first start with light strikes and varying the angle of the strike and the direction, whack the everloving crap out of it at this stage and try to cover the whole thing from different directions and angles but don't hit hard. The whole surface should have random damage that's not really easily visible unless viewed from an angle. Next stage is double the intensity of the strikes but far less strikes and again from random directions and angles. Last stage is going to town and whacking it as hard as you can from a different direction and angle and chocking up/down on the chain for differing effects but again far less strikes than the previous stage. Finished panel should not be distorted and no longer fit but should look worn and beaten up... by a chain from hell and 100 years of abuse.
But that's half the gambit, those are uniform dents and dings. You need to follow up with some jagged rocks to add rough gouges and scratches. Get a 5 lb. round river rock and whack it hard with a sledgehammer to break it into pieces. Small skipping stone pieces throw at the panel like you are a major league pitcher and work your way up from light and small to heavy and large while lowering the throw speed each step up to never throwing but lightly bashing. Remember marring the surface rather than distorting. If you have a stone feature for your garden and those rocks are jagged but too light to distort the panel... use those instead of a broken river rock.
The jagged edge rock stage adds jagged edged random scratches, dings, dents, and cuts into the panel that breaks up the more uniform thrice chain beating. Practice on some sheet metal and get an idea of how much of each stage is needed to get the desired effect. Change it up and use a jagged stone edge to make a long warbling scratch. Bundle the chain into a pile and throw as hard as you can at the panel if the panel can take it. Hell skip the panel down a rough gravel road to start it all. You can get positively ancient looking or very recent battle damage in metal panels with an old rusty chain and some jagged rocks used to mar the surface. Randomization and a little creativity is all that's needed.
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JETWTF
Wow, never expected one of my suggestions to ever be used. But not quite what I had in mind for the wires, the broken and burned wires could have been cut short and taped on the inside of the panel with the broken and burned pieces visible through the two large holes. Space needed? Wire thickness + tape thickness. No need for whole coils or even going anywhere beyond what is visible from outside the holes. Maybe 2 inch long bits of wire with at most 1/2 inch stripped and same color wires on different sides of the hole so you can see the wire crossed where the hole is and was torn asunder. Could have flattened 4 inches of the wires with a 90 degree bend in the middle, snip, strip, and burn the outside two and char the next ones corner. Then spread the outside wire out more than the next so it looks like routed wires where one took the brunt of the damage, the next half damage, the third got scorched, and fourth unscathed. Another set going across another whole but all got severed. As for the wires going in and out of the holes? I would remove that and add a couple damaged wires under the holes. Should be subtle damaged wires and maybe pipes depending on the project.
As for the chain, you want 2-3 feet of old rusty chain (1/8 thick links is fine) that hopefully has nicks and dents in it that can be transferred to the target and whack the target from multiple directions, angles, and power for more randomization. If it is rusty you get rust transferred over to go under the charred painting layer. Still missed the jagged rock chucking fun which does some really cool damage effects, only need to throw hard enough to gouge the metal surface, the chain does the denting.
One more suggestion to make life easier when stripping wires with side cutters. Bring the wire all the way down to the notch in the blades, squeeze enough to cut into the sheathing then rapidly twist the cutters around the wire in a back and forth motion as much as your wrist will allow, then pull the sheathing off all while maintaining the same pressure used to cut into the sheathing. That's what that notch in the blades of side cutters is for, stripping wires. Once you get the hang of it you will never touch wire strippers again lol.
Anywho, Love that you guys took my suggestion and implemented it in your own way. Not quite what I would have done but nonetheless I am happy to have contributed and like what was done. Thank you for listening to my suggestion.
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Wow, never expected one of my suggestions to ever be used. But not quite what I had in mind for the wires, the broken and burned wires could have been cut short and taped on the inside of the panel with the broken and burned pieces visible through the two large holes. Space needed? Wire thickness + tape thickness. No need for whole coils or even going anywhere beyond what is visible from outside the holes. Maybe 2 inch long bits of wire with at most 1/2 inch stripped and same color wires on different sides of the hole so you can see the wire crossed where the hole is and was torn asunder. Could have flattened 4 inches of the wires with a 90 degree bend in the middle, snip, strip, and burn the outside two and char the next ones corner. Then spread the outside wire out more than the next so it looks like routed wires where one took the brunt of the damage, the next half damage, the third got scorched, and fourth unscathed. Another set going across another whole but all got severed. As for the wires going in and out of the holes? I would remove that and add a couple damaged wires under the holes. Should be subtle damaged wires and maybe pipes depending on the project.
As for the chain, you want 2-3 feet of old rusty chain (1/8 thick links is fine) that hopefully has nicks and dents in it that can be transferred to the target and whack the target from multiple directions, angles, and power for more randomization. If it is rusty you get rust transferred over to go under the charred painting layer. Still missed the jagged rock chucking fun which does some really cool damage effects, only need to throw hard enough to gouge the metal surface, the chain does the denting.
One more suggestion to make life easier when stripping wires with side cutters. Bring the wire all the way down to the notch in the blades, squeeze enough to cut into the sheathing then rapidly twist the cutters around the wire in a back and forth motion as much as your wrist will allow, then pull the sheathing off all while maintaining the same pressure used to cut into the sheathing. That's what that notch in the blades of side cutters is for, stripping wires. Once you get the hang of it you will never touch wire strippers again lol.
Anywho, Love that you guys took my suggestion and implemented it in your own way. Not quite what I would have done but nonetheless I am happy to have contributed and like what was done. Thank you for listening to my suggestion.
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Pheelix
If all the rgb is going to be one color or you don't mind not being able to control the rgb per device. You can just use corsairs commander pro or lighting node pro (not the lighting hub) to control non corsair rgb 3 pin devices. Just get some 3 pin rgb cables that you can plug x number of rgb devices into and plug it into the commander pro or lighting node pro rgb port. Just make sure you have the 5v, gnd, and data wires in the right pins on the commander pro or lighting node. Then in iCue you have to use the right fan in the drop down that has the same amount of leds as what ever you plugged in. iCue will only see it as one rgb fan plugged in even if you have more on that cable. But it should change the leds to what ever color/effect you set. The downside is that you can't select per device like you can with actual corsair fans because of the way corsair uses 4pin fans (pwr, data in, data out, grnd) rgb plugs. So when you change the rgb settings on non corsair rgb devices it will mimic the effects down the line of rgb cable you have the devices plugged into. iCue is the best when it comes to rgb effects and customization, you just have to know how to get round some of the proprietary configurations. And if you don't want iCue to eat up cpu, then keep the effects to a minimum and use mostly static effects. People wonder why iCue is using so much cpu when they have every rgb in there case running tons of color effects.
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If all the rgb is going to be one color or you don't mind not being able to control the rgb per device. You can just use corsairs commander pro or lighting node pro (not the lighting hub) to control non corsair rgb 3 pin devices. Just get some 3 pin rgb cables that you can plug x number of rgb devices into and plug it into the commander pro or lighting node pro rgb port. Just make sure you have the 5v, gnd, and data wires in the right pins on the commander pro or lighting node. Then in iCue you have to use the right fan in the drop down that has the same amount of leds as what ever you plugged in. iCue will only see it as one rgb fan plugged in even if you have more on that cable. But it should change the leds to what ever color/effect you set. The downside is that you can't select per device like you can with actual corsair fans because of the way corsair uses 4pin fans (pwr, data in, data out, grnd) rgb plugs. So when you change the rgb settings on non corsair rgb devices it will mimic the effects down the line of rgb cable you have the devices plugged into. iCue is the best when it comes to rgb effects and customization, you just have to know how to get round some of the proprietary configurations. And if you don't want iCue to eat up cpu, then keep the effects to a minimum and use mostly static effects. People wonder why iCue is using so much cpu when they have every rgb in there case running tons of color effects.
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SeeTheWholeTruth
Nah, Go with Fiber Optic lit ends and dents. This is the future! Use a razor blade into the surface, only slight dents(small cuts with an exacto blade), this will bring points of light, and over short distances give you a very cool looking mod with red wires in a thick spaghetti style muscle-ish fiber bundle. You can tape the ends over the RGB point of light.. and get the movement mod of light or changes into it. Pulse timed out to low and slow , will give it a living nano muscular flex feel.
Also.. dont forget the following blood splatter effect mod: Make a TINY zip lock bag of a good darkish red nail polish. A rubber mallet with largeish head. Have a heat gun on, and ready.. Leave the bag about half a foot from it on a flat surface, cardboard under it... WHACK the bag Heat the splatter... OR.. have some nail polish remover by, clean, try again til you get the splatter you want. Presto.
Nice with the Charcoal effect, you should use a clear coat after. Seal in the effect, make it cleanable though.
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Nah, Go with Fiber Optic lit ends and dents. This is the future! Use a razor blade into the surface, only slight dents(small cuts with an exacto blade), this will bring points of light, and over short distances give you a very cool looking mod with red wires in a thick spaghetti style muscle-ish fiber bundle. You can tape the ends over the RGB point of light.. and get the movement mod of light or changes into it. Pulse timed out to low and slow , will give it a living nano muscular flex feel.
Also.. dont forget the following blood splatter effect mod: Make a TINY zip lock bag of a good darkish red nail polish. A rubber mallet with largeish head. Have a heat gun on, and ready.. Leave the bag about half a foot from it on a flat surface, cardboard under it... WHACK the bag Heat the splatter... OR.. have some nail polish remover by, clean, try again til you get the splatter you want. Presto.
Nice with the Charcoal effect, you should use a clear coat after. Seal in the effect, make it cleanable though.
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jacky
Gamers Nexus, you should fix your wind tunnel by adding a CV with remote voltage sense. This also has to be logable.
The issue I with your setup is that PSUs vary in voltage and therefore using them is not a good idea if you want to keep variability down. Using a CV with remote voltage sense completely removes this variability. Then if you log the current you can see even slight pressure differences due to current fluctuations.
Also this one I am not sure about but maybe you should test it once you are setup for the above. Try putting the fan on in different screw pressures. See if there is fluctuation in the RPM/current just from tightening or not tightening as hard. Then come with a standard mounting pressure at which your test is post reliable.
Thank you.
Yes I know I am a pain in the butt but variability is bad. Technically the air pressure also influences the results and maybe you also need to keep that measurement.
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Gamers Nexus, you should fix your wind tunnel by adding a CV with remote voltage sense. This also has to be logable.
The issue I with your setup is that PSUs vary in voltage and therefore using them is not a good idea if you want to keep variability down. Using a CV with remote voltage sense completely removes this variability. Then if you log the current you can see even slight pressure differences due to current fluctuations.
Also this one I am not sure about but maybe you should test it once you are setup for the above. Try putting the fan on in different screw pressures. See if there is fluctuation in the RPM/current just from tightening or not tightening as hard. Then come with a standard mounting pressure at which your test is post reliable.
Thank you.
Yes I know I am a pain in the butt but variability is bad. Technically the air pressure also influences the results and maybe you also need to keep that measurement.
reply
A.C.S.
I like the front of the case and I think it's the best part of this whole mod. But top is a poorly done paint job that I'm not a fan of and just looks way too amateur. Also I'm not sure I like the choices of messy cable management sticking out there's so many other ways of making things look messy but still clean and I don't like that choice. Also the red tubing doesn't match the blue and yellow theme which I feel you heavily neglected. I feel like a little more blue and yellow and a slightly cleaner aesthetic would've gone a long way. I get your going for messy but there's messy ugly and messy pretty.
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I like the front of the case and I think it's the best part of this whole mod. But top is a poorly done paint job that I'm not a fan of and just looks way too amateur. Also I'm not sure I like the choices of messy cable management sticking out there's so many other ways of making things look messy but still clean and I don't like that choice. Also the red tubing doesn't match the blue and yellow theme which I feel you heavily neglected. I feel like a little more blue and yellow and a slightly cleaner aesthetic would've gone a long way. I get your going for messy but there's messy ugly and messy pretty.
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Jan
That Zalman CPU cooler was almost killing my sons old Pentium 450 some ten years ago! The bad thing about it is that it cloggs with dust near the CPU as the fins are so tight. Our solution was to cut a round hole in the sidepanel and install an aftermarket car racing filter, you know those conical ones, and it had a tube almost reaching the fan. Really reducing the dust build up, and it sure looked fun as a mod with the +100mm large chrome and yellow filter on the side!
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That Zalman CPU cooler was almost killing my sons old Pentium 450 some ten years ago! The bad thing about it is that it cloggs with dust near the CPU as the fins are so tight. Our solution was to cut a round hole in the sidepanel and install an aftermarket car racing filter, you know those conical ones, and it had a tube almost reaching the fan. Really reducing the dust build up, and it sure looked fun as a mod with the +100mm large chrome and yellow filter on the side!
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Lorf
Is that going to cat angels after it is done for one dope office computer?
P.S my mouse mat arrived and it is indeed quite cool as many have commented. My only gripe with it is that the blue cloth weave that circles it irritates my wrists a little bit. I haven't had this problem with mats from other manufacturers. It's not huge but noticeable. It feels like the stitching thread is a bit coarse perhaps.
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Is that going to cat angels after it is done for one dope office computer?
P.S my mouse mat arrived and it is indeed quite cool as many have commented. My only gripe with it is that the blue cloth weave that circles it irritates my wrists a little bit. I haven't had this problem with mats from other manufacturers. It's not huge but noticeable. It feels like the stitching thread is a bit coarse perhaps.
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Inderjeet
15:10 ah the Bitwit school of open loop building. If you wanted to add some corrosion to the aluminium you could use some of the liquid metal that you get from Roman. Just a thought. If you want to seal that leaking component you could use liquid gasket maker from an autoparts store, see if they have any clear stuff available. This stuff is designed to be water resistant so should work here.
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15:10 ah the Bitwit school of open loop building. If you wanted to add some corrosion to the aluminium you could use some of the liquid metal that you get from Roman. Just a thought. If you want to seal that leaking component you could use liquid gasket maker from an autoparts store, see if they have any clear stuff available. This stuff is designed to be water resistant so should work here.
reply
Manjushri
Awesome. Looks great!! Total aside, is there a benefit to add vegnette-ing to b-roll? Like, the darkening around the screen edge similar to in games? Wonder if itd make things look more dramatic. Or something. Idk. Dope stuff tho, maybe should do builds (maybe not to involved lol, tho if love to see you guys with a heat gun doing hard tubing) more often.
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Awesome. Looks great!! Total aside, is there a benefit to add vegnette-ing to b-roll? Like, the darkening around the screen edge similar to in games? Wonder if itd make things look more dramatic. Or something. Idk. Dope stuff tho, maybe should do builds (maybe not to involved lol, tho if love to see you guys with a heat gun doing hard tubing) more often.
reply
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