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Mont Blanc // Rescuing a Russian - Mountain trips

Mont Blanc // Rescuing a Russian - Mountain trips

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Rating: 4.5; Vote: 2
It was an ambitious plan. We planned to take the first ride up the Aiguille du Midi and walk quickly, like an old lady with weights in her hands, up to Tucal, over Mont Maudit and up to the summit of Mont Blanc. On paper it looked possible. However, it turned out that no one had been summiting Blanc from that direction recently. The guiding trench we were relying on was non-existent. The fixed lines were frozen under a thick layer of ice. And we were not prepared for the giant, gaping burgschrund. It was at this point we came across Andreas. He had been sitting at this frozen obstacle for hours. Too afraid to go on and too afraid to return to the Refuge Cosmic. He begged, in broken english, to join us. We have no rescue training. It is by providences good graces and thousands of hours of experience that we manage to bring ourselves home everyday. Tying him to us both figuratively and metaphorically was a risk for all involved. Also, there was the fact that the tram was closing soon and Andreas was very, very cautiously descending. The stakes couldn't be higher
Date: 2023-01-17

Comments and reviews: 19


Many years ago, my friend and I helped carry out a very badly injured backcountry skier off of Mount Washington NH. I don't remember his name and I never heard from him again. He was an orthopedic surgeon is all I remember. I remember carrying him out was very difficult and much harder than I expected. What I do remember is feeling really good for being in the right place at the right time and that feeling lasted for a bit. The next day we headed back up and skied like nothing ever happened. I do remember looking at my friend and without a word with both knew are plans for a big day of skiing had changed and something much more important needed to be done. I am happy you were there for him; you really never know what could have happened. Take care and thank you for doing the right thing.
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In 1980 I left the Midi after taking the last lift up, spent the early part of the night checking out some routes, and decided they weren't in shape (I was alone, and went back to the Midi and spent the night in the station. The next morning, one of the workers handed me a broom and I swept the floor to earn my overnight stay. (Also bivouacked that same year at the terminus of the Grands Montets lift prior to a late night/very early morning start to a solo climb of the Couturier Couloir of the Aig. Verte. Descended the Whymper Couloir in deteriorating conditions in the company of two Spanish climbers)
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No tracks to follow on Mt. Blanc as there have NO GUIDES taking climbers on the route for several months due to Very Unstable conditions on the mountain caused by the unusual heat this summer at altitude. There have been several deaths related to this. Also any climbers in need of a rescue on the mountain at this time will be forced to pay in full the rescue costs, which are normally a service free of charge. with such huge exposure above as well as on the surface of the glaciers EXTREME caution is to be used. as always in the mountains if you choose to go. happy hunting!
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hey guys! I follow your nice video since a while. I appreciate the way of your fast scrambling etc. My curiosity: where are you from? Are you from New Zeland? Why in Alpes? Joking a part, I'm like curious HOW you bring water in your backpack. Seems to me interesting how the guy with the beard has the water bottle. Is it a pocket on the backpack or a an external container applied on the shoulder shoulder strap? Any info about the product you use is welcome. Thanks
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one thing about the hiking/ climbing community that gave me a masterclass in humility. ive never met someone in the mountains not willing to help one another without hesitation and any time theres a chance for people to help one another, you'll only ever hear about how glad they were to stumble upon them and be of help. something ive gathered from being both the saved and the savior so to speak.
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Long gone are the days of doing that route in a day with light boots, alloy crampons and 1 axe unfortunately. It was one of my favourite high altitude day hits. Anyone who knows these mountains could have told you guys this so you could have saved the hassle. But perhaps you had to go to save the guy? Dont be afraid to reach out for advice on conditions would be my advice.
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Took this way in 2002 at night. It's an Maudit at any times. In the group next to us, a headlamp slid into the depths in 2 seconds. Only a headlamp, you know. you made a great job by rescuing him. Even knowing, that each movement right there take so much unexpectedly more time than in other terrain.
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The Alps are no joke, you have to see them to understand. There's really nothing like them in the US, save for Alaska. They rise from so much lower of a mean elevation than the Rockies, and they're so much more jagged than anything in the US. Climbing them is quite an undertaking.
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Any experienced chmonix climber knows, the hardest route in the valle blanche is undoubtedly the final slog up to the midi, before the last bin goes down.
Otherwise you spend the night in the midi station luxurious restrooms.

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Hello Danny! I loved your show 100 Miles From Nowhere. It shows that there are 8 episodes in that series but all streaming services only show 4. What happened to the other 4 episodes? Is there any way to watch them in the US?
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Im curious about something. None of the searches Ive done for Mediocre Amateur get saved to my search history, nor does the name show up in the auto-complete list. Is anyone else experiencing this?
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Im dying to know - how do you guys carry water or refill? I always see the bottle + carrier but your packs seem so efficient Im just curious what your water situation usually is
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Known as the Cosmic Route to Mont Blanc, that's a serious endeavour. I would always recommend having at least one guide going into that area. Everyone was lucky to come away.
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If there's a mediocre amateur NOPE it's a hard NOPE for anyone, glad you were able to assist. also learning about an open bergschrund and that is scary
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I like when you said that he is saving some money by not calling for heli rescue. Thats France, not the US, pretty sure it would be free, its public service
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Definitely a good call turning around fellas, what BS beta! Also, the GoPro is never going to capture just how steep that section is but it's steep af
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I've done this exact hodgepodge route several years ago. Always a good idea to go solo when your team thinks there are too many crevasses. /sarcasm
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Sometimes the mission is the man and not the mountain. Looks like the weather went south for the summit anyway. The Universe is watching out for yall
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So who's got recommendations for the best mountaineering shoes for a beginner? This looks like an expensive hobby but I'm slowly working into it.
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