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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
2010 Subaru Forester A/C Repair: Expansion Valve & Condenser Leak Fix

2010 Subaru Forester A/C Repair: Expansion Valve & Condenser Leak Fix

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
2010 Subaru Forester A/C Repair: Expansion Valve & Condenser Leak Fix Channel video: South Main Auto Repair - Category: Auto & Vehicles
Date: 2025-09-01

Comments and reviews: 20


Thumbs up, just for the tool guy rant. When I 1st started in 95, the guys were salivating. However, they were not so pleasantly surprised to see that coming from a family of industrial electricians and mechanics, I already had most of my hand tools and I had already spent a bunch of $ at the Harbor Freight, Sears, and Home Depot/Husky. What I did buy was the specialty tools and scopes/scanners through them, which cost a pretty penny at that time. BUT i paid those bills down with the quickness and didn't buy anything else until those were done. I window shopped, browsed their fliers and catalogs, but rarely bought. And they got mighty irritated. The Matco and Cornwell guys started to refuse to come to the shop. If I had a broken tool, I had to meet them at a different shop for the warranty. Welp, that certainly stopped me from buying anything else from them. They eventually went under. By 02, I was buying Snapper updates for the scope and scanners through a corporate rep, cuz our guy stopped coming round too. Mac held out until I left that shop in late 03. I was told he stopped coming shortly thereafter. I worked at a bunch of shops from 03-10 and saw tool guys come and go. When I opened my own small shop in late 11, I started buying the specialty stuff direct online from OTC, etc. From that time until Oct of 23 I had that shop. If a Snapper or whatever wore out or broke, I would throw them out and buy either used tools from flea markets or off of mechanics that were retiring. New stuff including scanners came from other sources.
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My Mac tool guy was the best, I was in a service truck so I was everywhere and if I needed a tool or broke one I would call him and he would drop it off at my house, I would get it when I got home. he never asked for pictures for warranty i would just hand him a box that accumulated over the weeks. they also had a physical store in town if I needed but I never made it there much but unfortunately as with anything that is good, the tool guy Rod passed away and that was about the last I ever seem of the tool truck and never bought Mac again. the Snap-on guy here is absolute garbage too so now I just run store bought tools that I can replace in house.
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In my past life was aircraft mechanic. DC-8 had two R-12 a/c systems after some type of maintenance before pulling a vacuum I would pressurize system to 100 psi and check for and drop in pressure on the gauge. It’s an instant check you know immediately if you have a leak. Do the same now while working on automobile a/c systems. On the DC-8 had to be sure we had no leaks because we use to dump 14 lbs in atmosphere every time we worked on the system. This was when R-12 was less the $1 lb. Use to order 125 lb bottles of R12. I probably put a big hole in the ozone myself.
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Professional chemist here. There is no metal that glows in UV. This is a fact of nature, and no tricky chemical transformation will change that fact. The dyes are orgranic compounds very safe to use with the AC. The dye is at about 5 parts in 1000. part oil. They are expensive compared to the oil so the manufacturers use the least amount that will give a bright glow. (I am amazed that the metal is the UV dye myth got any traction as it is so easy to check that no metal glows under those UV lamps)
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Been living down south for nearly 50 years (originally from New Jersey, 'youse' guys definitely get as hot as we do (granted not for the same amount of time); know what the 'killer' is for us. the humidity, TRUTH. I do miss the 'seasons' somewhat but not much more (oh, okay: the Pizza, the baked goods and the 'deli') but there are always trade-offs in life. Thanks for what you do; I feel a little bit at home when viewing your videos, not to mention I learn and have learned a lot from them.
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You should’ve told me before deciding to take Friday’s off Ahhhhh yeh because what exactly would that have changed in the situation lol. The tools guys HATE when you don’t run a continuous balance. I’ll buy something for a few hundred and pay it off in a few weeks and then I’ll go weeks or more without buying anything and you can literally watch their attitude towards you change if you’re not running a balance, but the second you buy something they’re best friends again lol
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Just in case someone hasn't said it yet. Subie dealers down here in the south sell cars by warning of the imminent threat of rain. We don't have snow. but we have rain. Terrible, scary rain. It makes 100% of roads extremely wet. and that's D A N G E R O U S. How do you save yourself and your kin You purchase an AWD Subaru and you survive. Otherwise. yaknow. you're risking life and limb.
Or so they tell us. ; -)

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see I just learned something. My 07 Jeep Liberty does that with the A/C. if I don't keep the fan running at 3/4 speed on non-brutally hot days, it'll quit moving air. Worst was in the winter when the computer still cycles the compressor to try and keep the humidity down, and it freezes solid and now you have NO heat! Wonder if it has a temp sensor, and if it fell off. Time to dig through the factory books i have here.
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Expansion device changes high pressure liquid to low pressure liquid. The liquid is evaporated or boiled by adiabactic expansion through the absorption of heat passing over the evaporator. Low pressure vapor leaves the evap for the compressor. Hopefully anyway because the compressor is a vapor pump. If it tries to compress liquid refrigerant, it will catastrophically fail, Honda had a big problem with this.
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If the condenser is the radiator for heat from the system why isn't it called a radiator or dissipator Seems mis-named, to me. Similarly, the evaporator, if anything, should be called the condenser because condensation forms on it. In my opinion, the true condenser though, is the compressor, which condenses the gas within the system. Just saying the people who came up with the names could have done much better.
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You can't beat science! I heard that heat pumps on electric vehicles are very similar to a AC but the need to be switched from heating to cooling. maybe the system needs a condenser /heat exchange for the inside as well. Maybe even the expansion valve in the front where the condenser is. But as far as I know heat pumps are awesome for heating and cooling, especially for the use in the house or electric vehicles!
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The fluorescent UV dyes used in automotive and HVAC AC systems are organic fluorescent molecules dissolved in system-compatible lubricant oil. They are specifically formulated to be:
Oil-soluble (so they circulate with PAG, POE, or ester oils)
Chemically stable in refrigerant environments
Non-conductive and non-abrasive
They do not contain metal particles.

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My van A/C died. I took it to a local mechanic, that I have used for years. He wanted to charge me $300 for R-134 and diagnosis. Another $300 for refill and parts. I was thinking this could cost $2k. Granted the Van was elderly, maybe he wanted to discourage me from putting a significant amount of money into it. I’ll give him the benefit of the doubt.
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As a chemist and former mechanic, I'd say that UV dyes for AC and oil systems would not contain metals, just non-polar organic compounds that fluoresce. But I would imagine that UV dyes for the engine cooling systems (water-ethylene glycol fluids) would contain metal salts of fluorescent dyes, so those dyes would be soluble in the polar water-ethylene glycol.
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I use nylog for all my a/c orings or anything that seals and I want a lubricant on it. It’s a sealer as well. It’s fine for automotive use but it’s popular in the residential/commercial use. Nothing wrong with the way your doing it I did it that way for years. I found nylog just handy and I don’t have to mess with oil. It’s thick and hangs on.
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I'm with ya Eric. I stopped buying Crap on and Smac tools long ago because Mastercraft replaces stuff no questions asked. They have similar quality and strength, So why buy something I use 4 times for 120 dollars when I can get it for 30. Those companies will be out on the road soon enough with others making specialty tools available for everyone.
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For many years I had a great SnapOn truck guy (independent) who helped me a lot getting started. He was ok with me buying a few things and paying cash or a big set on account. He always had something small for free and many times would sell me good trade in tools for half of list. When he couldn't fix a ratchet on the spot he gave me a new one. TZ
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From what I understand PAG oil and moisture do not mix well and cause corrosion. So I have recently started using dielectric grease and it works amazing. I used PAG oil for lubricant for years, but honestly the die electric grease is supposed to be better and it seems to help with not pinching the O-ring as a bonus.
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Best car I've ever owned in the snow was my '05 WRX wagon with manual gearbox. That thing was AWESOME even without snow tires. I could hammer by all the dipshit trucks trying to own the highway during major snowstorms. Just stay a gear down and you'd slow down way quicker with engine drag. Thing was so great.
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LMAO. I cought that . We have -There's a lot of people around here that like them. Well done, Eric O.
We have a lot of them in California. And their Subaru's, too .
Being California, i work mainly on euro-trash. I'm not complaining. They have bought me a house and put both kids through college.

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