Chevy Suburban 5. 7: Crank No Start Part I
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Roger
Brother you ain't going to believe this but I have been a tech for years, Ford and Chevrolet, I have a 2004 Suburban and a 96 Suburban. I let my girlfriend drive the 96, anyway it has been hard start for a while so I put cap and button on her with a set of AC Delco plugs and wires. Ran like a top then about a week ago my woman called and said she was broke down. I towed it home and started with fuel pressure test, spark, and I knew it couldn't have been the cap and button because I only use good high quality brass parts. Anyway I changed, ICM, coil, crank sensor, fuel filter, took the upper plenum off and replaced the fuel pressure regulator, she has 241k on her but it has been serviced regularly and kept up. I ordered a PCM already flashed to my vin #. I installed the PCM and Knock. Same thing, crank but no start. I watched your video and decided to check the distributor gear, took the cap off and as I was pulling the wires off the coil side the cap felt a little spongy. Sure enough, crack in the brand new cap. Put new cap on and down the road she goes, ,so thanks for the video because I would not have checked the cap since I just replaced it.
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Brother you ain't going to believe this but I have been a tech for years, Ford and Chevrolet, I have a 2004 Suburban and a 96 Suburban. I let my girlfriend drive the 96, anyway it has been hard start for a while so I put cap and button on her with a set of AC Delco plugs and wires. Ran like a top then about a week ago my woman called and said she was broke down. I towed it home and started with fuel pressure test, spark, and I knew it couldn't have been the cap and button because I only use good high quality brass parts. Anyway I changed, ICM, coil, crank sensor, fuel filter, took the upper plenum off and replaced the fuel pressure regulator, she has 241k on her but it has been serviced regularly and kept up. I ordered a PCM already flashed to my vin #. I installed the PCM and Knock. Same thing, crank but no start. I watched your video and decided to check the distributor gear, took the cap off and as I was pulling the wires off the coil side the cap felt a little spongy. Sure enough, crack in the brand new cap. Put new cap on and down the road she goes, ,so thanks for the video because I would not have checked the cap since I just replaced it.
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Jim
Fun to see you working on an old 350 Chevy small block. I tore apart and rebuilt many of these in the 1980's. My friend still has a 1999 Suburban and I always like working on it, except for the Spider fuel injection and knock sensor which are under the intake manifold.
The distributor gear is softer than the cam gear, so it will go first. In the old days (points or HEI) you had to drop the distributor in and get the timing close enough to start, then use a timing light to adjust the timing by turning the distributor, then tighten its hold down bolt.
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Fun to see you working on an old 350 Chevy small block. I tore apart and rebuilt many of these in the 1980's. My friend still has a 1999 Suburban and I always like working on it, except for the Spider fuel injection and knock sensor which are under the intake manifold.
The distributor gear is softer than the cam gear, so it will go first. In the old days (points or HEI) you had to drop the distributor in and get the timing close enough to start, then use a timing light to adjust the timing by turning the distributor, then tighten its hold down bolt.
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Inherent
I'm thinking that my distributor is bad as well. My distributor rotor moves about 1/4 back and forth. You had stated in your video that it should not be able to move whatsoever correct? I'm having a crank no start issue. Sometimes when I attempt to turn it over, the PCV valve receives back pressure from the intake, I would rightfully assume that the distributor would cause this due to the timing issue. If I replace the new distributor, how much play is it suppose to have?
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I'm thinking that my distributor is bad as well. My distributor rotor moves about 1/4 back and forth. You had stated in your video that it should not be able to move whatsoever correct? I'm having a crank no start issue. Sometimes when I attempt to turn it over, the PCV valve receives back pressure from the intake, I would rightfully assume that the distributor would cause this due to the timing issue. If I replace the new distributor, how much play is it suppose to have?
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Joseph
Diagnosing a no start condition on 98 Chevy 1500 5. 7 vortec. I replaced the cap and rotor because the coil contact inside the cap was completely full of carbon. Still no start. I checked for spark at the coil through the wire and originally had nothing. I rotated the wire around and got spark. Reinstalled, still nothing. I measured the resistance of this 16 wire and got 700 ohms. I know the rule of thumb is 1000 ohm per ft. Is the resistance value of 700 acceptable?
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Diagnosing a no start condition on 98 Chevy 1500 5. 7 vortec. I replaced the cap and rotor because the coil contact inside the cap was completely full of carbon. Still no start. I checked for spark at the coil through the wire and originally had nothing. I rotated the wire around and got spark. Reinstalled, still nothing. I measured the resistance of this 16 wire and got 700 ohms. I know the rule of thumb is 1000 ohm per ft. Is the resistance value of 700 acceptable?
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Mikeaaron777
My brother in law had his car in for a tune up and they did a Timing belt, I guess it was due for one. The car was running poorly so I figured to look for loose wires and hoses, after all it just had a tune up. He brought it in to another garage and they changed the rotor and cap. I thought that was included in a Tune up.
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My brother in law had his car in for a tune up and they did a Timing belt, I guess it was due for one. The car was running poorly so I figured to look for loose wires and hoses, after all it just had a tune up. He brought it in to another garage and they changed the rotor and cap. I thought that was included in a Tune up.
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Roughneck
Man i have a 2001 chevy 8. 1 ltr 2500 hd that cranks and dies immediately. I have replaced the fuel pump and the tps. Also the security light will NOT come on at all even after i replaced the whole information panel. I have been tring to get this truck running for months. Can you please help i have asked sooo many people.
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Man i have a 2001 chevy 8. 1 ltr 2500 hd that cranks and dies immediately. I have replaced the fuel pump and the tps. Also the security light will NOT come on at all even after i replaced the whole information panel. I have been tring to get this truck running for months. Can you please help i have asked sooo many people.
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CrazyPetez
Back in the day, a pre-oiler was mandatory before starting a newly rebuilt engine, or one left sitting for years. An old distributor with the gear removed and an electric drill would do the job. But as you say, those old Chevys arent very common anymore.
Nice troubleshooting.
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Back in the day, a pre-oiler was mandatory before starting a newly rebuilt engine, or one left sitting for years. An old distributor with the gear removed and an electric drill would do the job. But as you say, those old Chevys arent very common anymore.
Nice troubleshooting.
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blargblarghonk
Lmfao. I was sitting here going it's gotta be the distributor gear is chewed up. Probably fixed north of 10 of these issues. From cam crank correlation to the gear just being round. 4. 3l 5. 0l and 5. 7l.
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Lmfao. I was sitting here going it's gotta be the distributor gear is chewed up. Probably fixed north of 10 of these issues. From cam crank correlation to the gear just being round. 4. 3l 5. 0l and 5. 7l.
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Ruben
Lol I had a van in the shop the owners did a tuneup and never started after that when I checked it he put a rotor button with out the metal tip on it everything looked new it just didnt have it
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Lol I had a van in the shop the owners did a tuneup and never started after that when I checked it he put a rotor button with out the metal tip on it everything looked new it just didnt have it
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Matt
I don't know why you apologize for the air compressor, or the heater, or phone ringing. You own a business so you should better apologize for bringing in business, and paying the bills.
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I don't know why you apologize for the air compressor, or the heater, or phone ringing. You own a business so you should better apologize for bringing in business, and paying the bills.
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