Removing A Broken Brake Bleeder
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
DARANGULAFILM
Sometimes shock cooling after heating to a safe temperature may help. Some canned air for blowing dust off lenses and camera internals is R134 gas. If the can is turned upside-down liquid gas will come out. This flashes to vapour and freezes anything it touches eventually. If the bleed nipple is stuck, I have let it soak with WD40 or similar if not in a hurry.
I have used a drift ( or blunted cold-chisel ) and heavy hammer with gentle raps around the entire hexagon to drive the nipple directly inwards, to hopefully deform the conical tip very slightly and slightly loosen the tension on the threads. I then preheated the nipple only to warm it and not damage any of the rubber seals.
Then with the straw in the can of dust-off canned air, I have turned the can upside down and shoved the straw inside the nipple. I then press the spray tip on the canned air and the liquid and vapor comes out the nipple if the straw fit is not tight. If the fit is too tight on the straws then you just have to make do with chilling the outside of the nipple.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses and do not spray onto redhot components when trying this trick on something else. The freezing liquid gas may injure your eyes otherwise. Combustion gases from R134 are apparently not good for you. After a few warming and chilling cycles and tapping with the hammer and drift in between you may strike lucky and crack the seized threads without breaking the nipple off.
reply
Sometimes shock cooling after heating to a safe temperature may help. Some canned air for blowing dust off lenses and camera internals is R134 gas. If the can is turned upside-down liquid gas will come out. This flashes to vapour and freezes anything it touches eventually. If the bleed nipple is stuck, I have let it soak with WD40 or similar if not in a hurry.
I have used a drift ( or blunted cold-chisel ) and heavy hammer with gentle raps around the entire hexagon to drive the nipple directly inwards, to hopefully deform the conical tip very slightly and slightly loosen the tension on the threads. I then preheated the nipple only to warm it and not damage any of the rubber seals.
Then with the straw in the can of dust-off canned air, I have turned the can upside down and shoved the straw inside the nipple. I then press the spray tip on the canned air and the liquid and vapor comes out the nipple if the straw fit is not tight. If the fit is too tight on the straws then you just have to make do with chilling the outside of the nipple.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses and do not spray onto redhot components when trying this trick on something else. The freezing liquid gas may injure your eyes otherwise. Combustion gases from R134 are apparently not good for you. After a few warming and chilling cycles and tapping with the hammer and drift in between you may strike lucky and crack the seized threads without breaking the nipple off.
reply
tubeyourself
Is there a special wrench recmmened for removing theser? Mine rounded off so easily its pathetic! I tried every size of wrench standard and metric and the 10mm was the only one that I could get on there, but it was a little bit loose. Bad news for those bleeders. I did managed to get one open without rounding it. The joys of working on a Suzuki is they used the WORST bolts. They used phillips head screws in some places. I have yet to get one of those out without drilling and tapping it and replacing it with a hex head. I'm getting fed up!
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Is there a special wrench recmmened for removing theser? Mine rounded off so easily its pathetic! I tried every size of wrench standard and metric and the 10mm was the only one that I could get on there, but it was a little bit loose. Bad news for those bleeders. I did managed to get one open without rounding it. The joys of working on a Suzuki is they used the WORST bolts. They used phillips head screws in some places. I have yet to get one of those out without drilling and tapping it and replacing it with a hex head. I'm getting fed up!
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Kyle
I learned a neat trick from an old mechanic and it works on retainer pins in rear ends too. Take a wrench apply a little bit of pressure and use an air hammer to vibrate the side of the caliper near the bleeder. I normally would use this just before I brought out the drill and torch. Great video and fix.
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I learned a neat trick from an old mechanic and it works on retainer pins in rear ends too. Take a wrench apply a little bit of pressure and use an air hammer to vibrate the side of the caliper near the bleeder. I normally would use this just before I brought out the drill and torch. Great video and fix.
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Don
Ive had this. my own cars if stuck I turn the calipers sideways and bleed at the hose. rear are cheap enough but can bleed by tipping the inner rubber cup. let it fill on its own I know you'll hate me once again. But it works. have collector cars never mess with ruining them and can't getem.
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Ive had this. my own cars if stuck I turn the calipers sideways and bleed at the hose. rear are cheap enough but can bleed by tipping the inner rubber cup. let it fill on its own I know you'll hate me once again. But it works. have collector cars never mess with ruining them and can't getem.
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chris
Am guessing the smoke/vapour was brake fluid burning off on the second caliper. The audi licence plate holder can imagine the part being expensive. Ran vw group cars for a while they didn't go wrong very often but knew about it if had to get genuine parts
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Am guessing the smoke/vapour was brake fluid burning off on the second caliper. The audi licence plate holder can imagine the part being expensive. Ran vw group cars for a while they didn't go wrong very often but knew about it if had to get genuine parts
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Pat
Try this it works every time. heat The blender
not around the blender. Heat it cherry red and then quench it with cold water as fast as you can that's very important and the bleeder will just about unscrew with your fingers I'm not kidding
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Try this it works every time. heat The blender
not around the blender. Heat it cherry red and then quench it with cold water as fast as you can that's very important and the bleeder will just about unscrew with your fingers I'm not kidding
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Isaac
Where's the antisieze? Why put dry bleeders in, then have to do that again in a couple years? And if you say antisieze and brake fluid don't get along, the bleeders are essentially outside the caliper.
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Where's the antisieze? Why put dry bleeders in, then have to do that again in a couple years? And if you say antisieze and brake fluid don't get along, the bleeders are essentially outside the caliper.
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Alborg
When we are going to be able to convince the crooked politicians to give up the use of road salt. I share your misery here but you have more patience than myself. Thank you & bless.
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When we are going to be able to convince the crooked politicians to give up the use of road salt. I share your misery here but you have more patience than myself. Thank you & bless.
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Tommy
Smart and great video! I guess it's not a bad idea to check this bleeders a little more often to avoid them to get stucked. Not looking forward to check the condition of mine.
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Smart and great video! I guess it's not a bad idea to check this bleeders a little more often to avoid them to get stucked. Not looking forward to check the condition of mine.
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founditnow54
PA tech here. This is an awesome tip. Anything here over 5 years old bleeder-wise is usually permanently fused. Unfortunately my bosses just want me to sell calipers.
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PA tech here. This is an awesome tip. Anything here over 5 years old bleeder-wise is usually permanently fused. Unfortunately my bosses just want me to sell calipers.
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