Subaru EJ25 - Basic Ignition Tune-Up / Plugs and Wires
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
TheJuanSolid
19: 20 is no joke/lie. Fordtechmakuloko has a Ford focus valve cover replacement video and one of the comments is from someone noting they went to replace their spark plugs and found all that oil. They went ahead and replaced them anyway without cleaning, and all the oil fell down into the cylinder. They state their engine would not start and asked how to fix. Bad day. If you find completely soaked boots and don't have anything to suck up the oil with you should get some dirty thin towels and gently push them into the well with a small screw driver. After the majority is gone follow up with an air compressor to blow all the liquid out while covering with a rag. If you don't have an air compressor just keep soaking as best you can to remove all the oil you can soak up. Follow up with some paper towels (if you don't have more durable automotive ones) and be sure to use a clean towel so you can see if there is any oil left. If you are not doing your valve cover gasket now this does not have to be perfectly dry. The small amount of oil left will get burnt up, you are just trying to avoid hydrolocking your engine and having a bad day. When you finally replace your valve cover gasket you should replace any oil soaked boots too. That's when you want to clean until your final new paper towel comes it looking as clean as it went in.
At least that's what I did. Without compressed air it would be a bigger pain to do, but could be done fine.
I also have seen people state to not replace the boots, and I think it's wrong. I cleaned a bunch of oil off my old boots and placed them in the spare parts bin. A week later I was organizing and found beaded up oil all over them. Seemed like the rubber absorbed oil and expelled it over time, sort of like condensation but oil. I just checked the bin again now and there was a light visible film of oil over the boots up to where they were soaking in oil.
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19: 20 is no joke/lie. Fordtechmakuloko has a Ford focus valve cover replacement video and one of the comments is from someone noting they went to replace their spark plugs and found all that oil. They went ahead and replaced them anyway without cleaning, and all the oil fell down into the cylinder. They state their engine would not start and asked how to fix. Bad day. If you find completely soaked boots and don't have anything to suck up the oil with you should get some dirty thin towels and gently push them into the well with a small screw driver. After the majority is gone follow up with an air compressor to blow all the liquid out while covering with a rag. If you don't have an air compressor just keep soaking as best you can to remove all the oil you can soak up. Follow up with some paper towels (if you don't have more durable automotive ones) and be sure to use a clean towel so you can see if there is any oil left. If you are not doing your valve cover gasket now this does not have to be perfectly dry. The small amount of oil left will get burnt up, you are just trying to avoid hydrolocking your engine and having a bad day. When you finally replace your valve cover gasket you should replace any oil soaked boots too. That's when you want to clean until your final new paper towel comes it looking as clean as it went in.
At least that's what I did. Without compressed air it would be a bigger pain to do, but could be done fine.
I also have seen people state to not replace the boots, and I think it's wrong. I cleaned a bunch of oil off my old boots and placed them in the spare parts bin. A week later I was organizing and found beaded up oil all over them. Seemed like the rubber absorbed oil and expelled it over time, sort of like condensation but oil. I just checked the bin again now and there was a light visible film of oil over the boots up to where they were soaking in oil.
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Joseph
Ages ago, I did a mini tune up on my (then) gf's 1971 LTD--basically replacing plugs and wires and distributor cap to get it to run decently enough to get it to a garage for other work and save a tow. I knew enough to exactly replace the wires one by one and plug them into the new cap in exactly the same spot as the old cap (my mechanical abilities were limited. However, when I finally went to mount the distributor cap, I found that Ford had polarity-notched the cap in such a way to make it go in only one way--despite the fact that it was 180-degree symmetric (in other words, the plug impulses came straight through the cap without any logic or re-routing. I can see notching the cap so that it could only go in one of two (or even 4) ways, but this was overdesign. So I carefully removed the plugs from the new cap and reconnected them to the old cap, then rotated the new cap, and then moved the wires from the old cap to the new one. Totally nuts. Also, on this car, the windshield wiper squirt nozzles came in left and right. Why? No reason to not to have just one nozzle type. Doofus. There were other things about that car that were similarly dubious. And, of course, it had the infamous Ford steering gear box wander. I drove a 1961 Fairlane with about 6 inches of play in the wheel. The 71 LTD had about the same. My (by then) wife got a 76 LTD later with the same problem, and we briefly had an 84 Ford with the same issue. At a time when just about every other car manufacturer built cars that went where you pointed them, Ford STILL hadn't gotten the message. What rot.
Q: Does anyone know what year Ford FINALLY had steering that properly pointed the car? I'm curious.
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Ages ago, I did a mini tune up on my (then) gf's 1971 LTD--basically replacing plugs and wires and distributor cap to get it to run decently enough to get it to a garage for other work and save a tow. I knew enough to exactly replace the wires one by one and plug them into the new cap in exactly the same spot as the old cap (my mechanical abilities were limited. However, when I finally went to mount the distributor cap, I found that Ford had polarity-notched the cap in such a way to make it go in only one way--despite the fact that it was 180-degree symmetric (in other words, the plug impulses came straight through the cap without any logic or re-routing. I can see notching the cap so that it could only go in one of two (or even 4) ways, but this was overdesign. So I carefully removed the plugs from the new cap and reconnected them to the old cap, then rotated the new cap, and then moved the wires from the old cap to the new one. Totally nuts. Also, on this car, the windshield wiper squirt nozzles came in left and right. Why? No reason to not to have just one nozzle type. Doofus. There were other things about that car that were similarly dubious. And, of course, it had the infamous Ford steering gear box wander. I drove a 1961 Fairlane with about 6 inches of play in the wheel. The 71 LTD had about the same. My (by then) wife got a 76 LTD later with the same problem, and we briefly had an 84 Ford with the same issue. At a time when just about every other car manufacturer built cars that went where you pointed them, Ford STILL hadn't gotten the message. What rot.
Q: Does anyone know what year Ford FINALLY had steering that properly pointed the car? I'm curious.
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Tom
At 17: 15 Eric O. says, Power steering line is right in the way. In 1973, I ran a power press, to bend cold sheets of steel, for Oldsmobile. I made 360, 000 (yes) heavy metal brackets to bolt onto the engine block, and to hold the power steering pump. (YouTube Olds 350 Rocket shows this at the twenty second mark) This bracket blocked access to the #1 cylinder spark plug. In that era the GM supplied a Maintenance Schedule booklet with every Oldsmobile that recommended setting the spark-plug gap once-a-year!
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At 17: 15 Eric O. says, Power steering line is right in the way. In 1973, I ran a power press, to bend cold sheets of steel, for Oldsmobile. I made 360, 000 (yes) heavy metal brackets to bolt onto the engine block, and to hold the power steering pump. (YouTube Olds 350 Rocket shows this at the twenty second mark) This bracket blocked access to the #1 cylinder spark plug. In that era the GM supplied a Maintenance Schedule booklet with every Oldsmobile that recommended setting the spark-plug gap once-a-year!
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Jaedon
Best advice I have for ej25 valve cover gasket replacements, dont even bother with a socket and ratchet. You barely have any room to work. Especially on the driver side. Just use an old fashioned wrench or a ratcheting wrench. And be sure to double check your tube seals when installing. Its easy to put them on crooked or even slide them too far on the tube. Other than that, its a great engine to work on. Now I wanna buy my subie back.
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Best advice I have for ej25 valve cover gasket replacements, dont even bother with a socket and ratchet. You barely have any room to work. Especially on the driver side. Just use an old fashioned wrench or a ratcheting wrench. And be sure to double check your tube seals when installing. Its easy to put them on crooked or even slide them too far on the tube. Other than that, its a great engine to work on. Now I wanna buy my subie back.
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Nikolai
The ceramic rings are made for reducing voltage. The technology was taking from high power lines when it rains or ice build up the voltage gets reduced if it runs thru the ring compare to a straight line. There is a formula for that - physics. Don't remember the formula it was 35 years ago.
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The ceramic rings are made for reducing voltage. The technology was taking from high power lines when it rains or ice build up the voltage gets reduced if it runs thru the ring compare to a straight line. There is a formula for that - physics. Don't remember the formula it was 35 years ago.
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Glycerin
On my 01 Legacy, I replaced the timing belt/water pump/pulleys, as well as serpentine belts, spark plugs & wires, and valve cover gaskets at 106K miles. Only have used synthetic oil in her since I started driving her at 24K miles. She runs like a champ and has never let me down.
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On my 01 Legacy, I replaced the timing belt/water pump/pulleys, as well as serpentine belts, spark plugs & wires, and valve cover gaskets at 106K miles. Only have used synthetic oil in her since I started driving her at 24K miles. She runs like a champ and has never let me down.
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Garth
ou've got to know when to hold 'em
Know when to fold 'em
Know when to walk away
And know when to run
You never count your money
When you're sittin' at the table
There'll be time enough for countin'
When the dealin's done
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ou've got to know when to hold 'em
Know when to fold 'em
Know when to walk away
And know when to run
You never count your money
When you're sittin' at the table
There'll be time enough for countin'
When the dealin's done
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Puder
Do not use anti seize on nickel coated plugs you can but nobody likes anti seize cuz if you see it it's already over anything you touch the rest of your day smh
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Do not use anti seize on nickel coated plugs you can but nobody likes anti seize cuz if you see it it's already over anything you touch the rest of your day smh
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Brian
Mr. O you are correct in that the ribs on the insulator on the plugs is to increase the voltage potential required to discharge to ground.
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Mr. O you are correct in that the ribs on the insulator on the plugs is to increase the voltage potential required to discharge to ground.
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Scott
good luck to Hannah she has certainly grown an become a confident you woman wish her well for her future endeavours cheers Hannah x
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good luck to Hannah she has certainly grown an become a confident you woman wish her well for her future endeavours cheers Hannah x
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