Ford F-250: Ball Joints & Tie Rod Ends - Part I
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 9
woody
Tec tip from a 50 year ford tec.
All you have to do release the tie rod ends from the nuckle is to tap on the center boss between the two ends with a small dead blow hammer.
The bottom joint will just drop off then reinstall the castell nut and gently tap up DONE
Good video's
reply
Tec tip from a 50 year ford tec.
All you have to do release the tie rod ends from the nuckle is to tap on the center boss between the two ends with a small dead blow hammer.
The bottom joint will just drop off then reinstall the castell nut and gently tap up DONE
Good video's
reply
John
Lol binge watching but my 09 f250 inner tie rod ends were so bad that when I hit bumps the entire stabilizer would bounce up and down. Since then switched to Chevy lol. Dumb designs on the vacuum dealing 4x4 to calipers that you have to replace because they're seize prone. Gotta love it
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Lol binge watching but my 09 f250 inner tie rod ends were so bad that when I hit bumps the entire stabilizer would bounce up and down. Since then switched to Chevy lol. Dumb designs on the vacuum dealing 4x4 to calipers that you have to replace because they're seize prone. Gotta love it
reply
Richard
I recall you've used the brass hammers on occasions since this one, usually when you wanted to be firm but gentle with something that could get turned the wrong way if struck too forcefully or broken if hit with a hard object. I have one question: Are they metric or SAE?
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I recall you've used the brass hammers on occasions since this one, usually when you wanted to be firm but gentle with something that could get turned the wrong way if struck too forcefully or broken if hit with a hard object. I have one question: Are they metric or SAE?
reply
Potskie
When working on these ( I maintain a fleet of 250 through 550s) I find giving the end of the knuckle where the tie rods go through a sharp smack or two with a three pound hammer with cause them both to just pop right out at the same time most of the time.
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When working on these ( I maintain a fleet of 250 through 550s) I find giving the end of the knuckle where the tie rods go through a sharp smack or two with a three pound hammer with cause them both to just pop right out at the same time most of the time.
reply
mitch
Question what brand and model are those ring pullers? I tried three or four different ones when I changed my wheel bearing before finally getting a set that worked with vise grips around the neck to spread the ring enough. Those look like they worked well.
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Question what brand and model are those ring pullers? I tried three or four different ones when I changed my wheel bearing before finally getting a set that worked with vise grips around the neck to spread the ring enough. Those look like they worked well.
reply
Ray
excellent videos. Gave me the courage to try it on my own. Unfortunately the las nut to take off is the lower ball joint and it is spinning freely. I can't figure out how to pin the joint so I can remove the nut. Anyone have any suggestions?
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excellent videos. Gave me the courage to try it on my own. Unfortunately the las nut to take off is the lower ball joint and it is spinning freely. I can't figure out how to pin the joint so I can remove the nut. Anyone have any suggestions?
reply
chrisanddorie
Thank you for this video. It gave me the confidence that I needed to swap them out myself. Finished them the other night and going to get it to the alignment shop this weekend. Thank you!
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Thank you for this video. It gave me the confidence that I needed to swap them out myself. Finished them the other night and going to get it to the alignment shop this weekend. Thank you!
reply
Zach
Hey Eric i got a 2012 f250 6. 7 and there a clunk when I hit bumps and I went down a wiggled my ball joints. They didnt move up and down but I could twist them is that a problem
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Hey Eric i got a 2012 f250 6. 7 and there a clunk when I hit bumps and I went down a wiggled my ball joints. They didnt move up and down but I could twist them is that a problem
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mark
Stop hammering the hub face.
Smarter to use a impact socket between the wheel stops
And have someone turn the steering wheel with the engine running.
reply
Stop hammering the hub face.
Smarter to use a impact socket between the wheel stops
And have someone turn the steering wheel with the engine running.
reply
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