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Heres Why This Spray Can Will Make Your Car Run Better

Heres Why This Spray Can Will Make Your Car Run Better

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Rating: 4.5; Vote: 2
Heres Why This Spray Can Will Make Your Car Run Better RedHot85Corvette: About that 2011 RAV, your first question, he can use that can of throttle body cleaner, or cheaper generic carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks first. Spray a short mist around vacuum lines, connections, head and intake gaskets, etc. and see if the idle changes, if it does, then there's a leak. Moving the connections around and deeply looking at the hoses and connections for dry rot, grime, swollen rubber, etc. Listen deeply for Hsssss sounds. Stepping on the brakes kicks in the vacuum supply for the power brake booster, requiring additional demand on the vacuum system, which would cause the car to stall or almost stall. Big ol' '80s T-Birds with big fat 4 bbl, had a short piece of vacuum line protruding from the rear of the carb, hidden under the cowl, which, due to extreme heat, vibration, and grime accumulation would eventually rot the 4 rubber hose, often at the nipple, at the carb. Under normal driving and idle, you often would not notice a thing. But when revving the engine or stepping on the brakes. Hsssss. Stall! Just an example of what I'm talking about. Some areas of some engines get more vibration, grime, heat, stress, than others. Sometimes a vacuum hose, for example, might attach to a cruise control solenoid, then route under a brace in the engine compartment, like near the battery where there is sometimes extra bracing (C4 Corvettes. After years of rubbing against the brace, or braces, the hose will eventually develop a hard-to-see hole in it. Then, again, when the cruise control solenoid calls for extra vacuum. the cruise control stops, or could even worse, accelerate. yeah, so, check them vacuum lines carefully. You should do a video on the use of the Miteyvac vacuum pump. The Diagnostic Tool of The Old School. What may be considered the Pre-Scantool, Engine Diagnostic Scanner. With a Vacuum gauge of any kind and a chart, that can be found in some Chilton's and Haynes manuals, or the internet, a DIY shade tree amateur mechanic could diagnose most engine related issues and/or fine tune a tune-up. I have never seen a mechanic use one yet. I have heard mechanics guess regarding vacuum leaks and other engine issues, when just tapping in a small handheld vacuum guage with a T, could rule out a whole bunch of possible problems. Using a vacuum guage along with a Scan Tool is probably the Best way to go when diagnosing engine problems, especially with OBD-II Cars. But for antiques, classics, hot rods, custom cars, etc. the Miteyvac is the way to go. It's also very useful for one-man brake bleeding. PS. The Miteyvac is a neat handy dandy device for the fastest most accurate Brake Bleeding. Except for maybe Speed Bleeders, which replace the standard bleeder screws with a check valve type bleeder screw. The fluid and air come out, nothing goes back in. Easiest Brake System Flushing Ever.
Date: 2020-04-19

Comments and reviews: 9


Hi Scotty I love the show and have a question. Im starting a welding business and need a 1ton dually as Im getting a big old Lincoln welding machine and need to load it up full of tools and bottles of gas. I can only afford about 20, 000 to 30, 000 Canadian and I am in Toronto, Ontario. So at that price I can only find high mileage vehicles. What do you think about a 2011 Ram 3500 with the 6. 7L Cummins and ASIN transmission. With 400, 000-500, 000km and I know he maintains the truck well km depends on when Im ready to buy it off my buddy. Hes selling for 20, 000 to me with a custom welding bed 6lift and a winch on a steel bumper. I know you recommend fords but I find their engines or transmissions go after high km so Im leaning towards this doge anyway please answer if you have time thanks for having such a great show.
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I was hoping for a more comprehensive answer on fuel economy decrease in winter. You mentioned that the gas has to warm up more. Are you including extended idle time, in that statement? Cold air is denser. Doesn't that mean more gas, at the calibrated ratio (approx 1: 14) What about winter fuel additives? My guess is that winter fuel may be the biggest contributer to less mpg. How correct is that? Also, I'm surprised that you didn't mention the Topdon tool, regarding the alternator question. Is this no longer a recommended buy?
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Funny I was doing the MAF cleaning on my Honda Civic. All of the Philips screwdrivers wont loosen the 2 screws holding it in. I gave up. I even bent the small flathead screwdriver. Someone at the factory probably thread locked it or may be corroded. Ill try the fluid to free rusted screws other time. Using screws to hold in without a hexagon shaped screw head is beyond me. Much easier to loosen than a regular screw.
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At the 4: 57 Mark Scotty Kilmer just showed me that he doesnt really know that much about cars. The reason the gas mileage goes down in the winter is because they reformulated the gas. And they do that so that your vehicle will actually start in the cold weather. And hes babbling about some electronics stuff thats wrong with it thats the natural process it happens every winter, because they re-formulate the gas.
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Hey Scotty! I've got a 2010 Lexus IS250. i l recently noticed that my steering wheel is vibrating slightly when im at a stop in drive when my AC is off. When I turn my AC on, the vibrations go down significantly. The RPM needle is steady as can be and it only has 69, 000 miles. The vibration isn't there in any other gears. Any ideas?
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Van, two-seater. Manual 6 speed transmission, 6v to 8V, 80L tank, behind seats. Tyres: Momo M-30 Europa 195/55 R16 Chassis: Stainless steel enforced, aluminium. Electrics: Relays, no onboard computer. Cooling: Fan forced, front rediator, easy to replace. Exhaust, roof-mounted. Can have the engine, submerged, almost.
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For the low winter mileage, I suggest using a lower weight oil than in summer. Depending on how long it lasts (and severe) the winter gets consider a synthetic 5W-30 or even 0W-20 oil & certainly this will help warm up faster. I assume the car has a rear diff - check/replace that fluid as well.
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Hey Scotty. I have a 2012 Corolla. As I hit 65mph it seems like the front end starts to rattle a little bit. And it seems like it's been like that for years. I know it has nothing to do with the tires. I have changed the tires twice. Is there anything I could do? Thanks
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I have a 2015 Scion tC (30k miles, I just got the front tires from the original tires to Yokohama tires and it feels like it has less power then it used to then it used to, my back tires (Michelen) are still at like 75% life. Is this placebo or should I do something?
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