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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » Scotty Kilmer
These Brake Pads Will Last Forever

These Brake Pads Will Last Forever

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
These Brake Pads Will Last Forever Marc-André Servant: If you need to slow down smoothly over a long distance, and you have a standard transmission, downshift and use engine braking. The clutch wear is minimal as it only occurs the moment you release the clutch, and the closed throttle turns the engine into an inefficient air compressor, venting waste heat down the exhaust pipe. This is especially useful on long downhill stretches, as overheated brakes aren't as efficient as cool brakes. This trick does not work on diesels as they always take a full charge of air regardless of how much fuel is injected, so any energy the engine wastes compressing the intake air gets put back into the piston during the power stroke, so in the end you don't lose much kinetic energy. This is why diesels need a Jake brake in order to use engine braking. Unless you drive a semi truck, you don't have a Jake brake. Turbo diesels like TDIs have some engine braking because of the backpressure provided by the turbo (and emissions control devices if you have the old, honest TDIs without the computer cheat, but this isn't nearly as efficient as Jake brakes.
Date: 2019-06-03

Comments and reviews: 9


But to the fellow who wanted to know what undercoating to use, even tho he doesn't need to put any on. Id either use fluid film, lightly diluted motor oil, diluted bar and chain oil or even used automatic transmission fluid. Spray everything down underneath it except any rubber bushings, brakes, tires, electronic connectors try to miss them types of connections for the most part but. common sense etc etc. You don't need it but, what the hell ya know if ya want to do it ya know. do it. I wouldn't trust a factoy protector either for 50k dollar vehicle either especially if I was planning on keeping the sucker.
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Man what you are saying about the rust control is absolute hogwash, lol. Any car in a salted area is going to rust period and fluid films help You obviously have never worked on vehicles in areas with heavy salt use where you cant even break bolts lose without using a torch because they are corroded on. Telling people that they dont need rust proofing is BS. That might be true in places like Houston but not salt belt states or Canada Go get a 10 year old Toyota from a salt belt state and put it on a ramp next to one from Houston or Florida and you will see they dont look the same underneath
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You mentioned the ground wires. About 30 years ago I had a customer bring in an old Camaro that was very hard to shift. It also was slow starting but the customer didn't complain about that. I rep the shift cable and sent him on his way. About a week later he came back with it hard to shift again. I noticed the cable both times looked melted. It turned out the customer had replaced his battery cables and instead of putting the negative on the engi he ran it to the fender. Every time you started the car the ground went throu the shift cable and eventually burnt it up.
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driving habits can extend the life of your brakes. i leave a little distance behind the car in front of me. when the car in front of him hits the brakes. i let go of the gas. drift a second, then the cars in front of me go again. and i havent touched my brakes. if you know the roads you are traveling you can anticipate curves, let go of the gas ahead of time. resistance will slow you down for the curve. the WAY you drive can have tremendous affect on your mpg & the life of your brakes. its been over 30 years since ive gotten less than 125k from a set of pads.
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Hey Scotty, I hope you see this because I need to know what kind of car whether used or brand new would be best in your opinion for someone who just got their license? I've been looking at a few cars like the Civics (due to people possibly stealing) and some neighbors' Mercedes', but took note from your videos that they aren't really the best options. If you could make a video about this for teens becoming adults like me, it'd be most helpful. PS. I live on top of a big hill, so any preferences of cars that doesn't along the way Thank you
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Scotty I'm new to my area and don't know anyone. I'm thinking about buying a used car and want to take it to a mechanic to check it out. How do I find someone to do this and what does that conversation sound like? Do I need to make an appointment to have a car checked out so I can only look at cars based on the appointments I make with mechanics? What should I be asking the mechanic to do when I bring them the car? What should I expect to pay for this service?
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Just my opinion but powerstop makes a really good brake kit for most cars it's a ceramic high-quality pad with cross drilled rotors front & rear (on most cars) it's a whole brake kit w/pads rotors shims & even a couple packages of grease for a very reasonable price it was about half the price of EBC brakes that I have had very good luck with but the reviews said they are the same brakes damn near most people that have tried them we're happy with either ones
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I went to school with a guy whos father own a company that galvanized steel light poles, and road barriers. He boght this van, and he and his father striped the van down to bare metal, and galvanized the whole thing. The body, doors, frame, and doors were all galvanized. Rencently he had the engine bored out, but he still driving the van. His father has been dead twenty years, and think the son isn't going to out last the van.
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I disagree about the underseal. Especially in the UK, where they spread salt on the roads 1cm thick. It's not only bad for the environment, but it's making cars rust prematurely. No matter what dipping it's treated with. Why the salt? Well, it's because people don't buy winter tyres and there would be national disaster if they don't grit the roads.
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