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zakruti.com » Travels » TA Outdoors
SHACK SHELTER - BARK ROOF, LOG CABIN NOTCHES, AXE, SAW, BUSHCRAFT

SHACK SHELTER - BARK ROOF, LOG CABIN NOTCHES, AXE, SAW, BUSHCRAFT

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
SHACK SHELTER - BARK ROOF, LOG CABIN NOTCHES, AXE, SAW, BUSHCRAFT Luis Arciniega: I applaud your iideas, your initiative, and your labor. These are very good videos. They are well photographed, well narrated and the subject material is interesting. Your hard work should be greatly compensated. There are some things to note: some are technique others are dangerous. A roof should overlap a floor. Shingles should overlap following the pitch. Notches should follow natural contoures; shallow enough to not weaken the structure but suficient to prevent slippage. Material should be supported off the ground at an appropriate height to protect the tool and to acheive a safe, effortless yet satisfying result when cutting with a saw, ax or knife. Keep your free hand away from the cutting area. Measurements and measuring tools have existed since paleolithic times-- use them often. A thumb, a foot, a cubit, a hands breath, the finger spread of an obtetrician are some anatomical measurements you carry. Your stinky, clunky foot supporting a log while you ax at it may soon resemble a punky Scotch Pine stump. Considered making crutches or a walking stick to get home in the eventuality you lose control of the ax? Use eye protection to see your way to find help. When you ax your hand how are you going to pee and wipe yourself, assuming you are not adept with your contralateral hand? Your buddy may not be available for these tasks. These are lessons taught by my Scoutmaster Mr. Ponce and reenforced by Mr. Wright, my 9th grade wood shop teacher in 1963. Live by these and you too can become a successful orthopedic surgeon and happily camp in a shack, shed or cabin.
Date: 2019-09-10

Comments and reviews: 9


make a gauge for your log cabin notches. Just like your pole to tell you how long you need your poles, the notch gauge tells you how wide and deep to cut them. While being small, light, and portable to where you cut the pole down. 26: 00 the roof material dilemma. Do you have clay? really dense peat? Put that down as the first layer to seal the gaps then heap on the debris. There is using the pine bark. Lay and layer with the outside down, then a layer with the outside up. These interlock and and shed water if you place them from the bottom up. The upper layer over lapping the one beneath. To harvest the bark, it's like beech bark; use your axe the cut vertical down the trunk then pop it off in two halves. That your tree is dead helps as the bark separates from the tree easily. A Slick is a tool for taking off bark. Looks like a chisel with a two, three, or four inch wide beveled blade. To bad you do not have a froe, then you would make some one meter length shingles for one meter lengths of log. 32: 00. Use a come along. attach one end of the cable to the tree you need that is stuck and the other end to a firmly rooted tree. Use padding if the firmly rooted tree is still live. A few sticks will do, just so the cable doesn't dig into the live trees bark.
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Use the Bracken then use the bark on top in long lengths like the tree when it was alive this will help bring the rain down as far as posable and the bracken will do the rest, the owner of the land will love you for controlling the bracken and find out about the rhododendron as it can take over the woods and will have to be managed later down the road, to find out about rhododendron check out Stover country park in Devon, it has so much rhododendron it has become the sight for rhododendron in Britain and when it is really thick it is very good wood for making small bushcraft jobs. Exeter city council looks after the park, I worked with the wardens in managing it watch the rhododendron it can be very dangerous to work with if you don't know how to do it correctly.
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Those creatures you called Woodlice are known to as Rolly Pollies or Pill Bugs on this side of the pond. They aren't actually bugs at all, but are crustaceans. They are more like lobsters and crayfish ( crawdads in my neck of the woods) than ants, beetles or lice. After all of your labor, I hope the shingles work for you. Unfortunately, I think your gut was right in this case and they would have been more effective turned 90 degrees. Love your vids. Hope to continue seeing your Pops with you.
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Still watching but. On the roof top of go either Brakken then bark or vice versa Use both I'd go with brakken 1st to cushion the bark while insinuating like a real home theory And harvesting the bark with ease? I haven't tried it yet butMaybe like a wire saw or maybe even rope. Around the tree under the bark and slide/scoot up or down until you get the size chunk of bark desired or it falls off lol Hope that helps Mike Another great video love it
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With regard the bark, by placing it across the roof beams the curvature of the bark will have a tendency to drip water down through. Instead, think Spanish tile. Start at the bottom and lay upside down bark in the grooves between the beams, then, sections of bark the right side up between the pieces you just laid down but overlapping them as much as possible. this approach along will help shed water down the roof pitch. Just a thought
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That seems like a lot of work and a lot of wood for the shelter you get. I notice that you do not have much of an understory from which to gather supple, small-diameter materials: one has to go with what is available. I felt the way you do about adding diagonal bracing for rigidity. This is meant to be a basic structure; more sophisticated joinery might come later in the book. It is great fun to watch this project come along.
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Hi Mike love your videos with and without your dad, can I ask you, when you set out to build a shelter like this one do you determine the average wind direction and build according to where the wind direction is normally from ie if you get an East to west wind normally do you put the entrance to the west, South, north away from the natural direction of prevailing wind, good lord that was long winded question pmsl?
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What about using that lightweight, sandy, loamy soil on top of the bark. Would be supported by the bark, but fill in the gaps. Not sure if your front crossbeam is strong enough to support the extra weight, but an additional brace across the front wouldn't be too difficult to fashion. That conglomeration of fine roots, leaf litter, peaty, sandy surface soil, is relatively light in weight compared to, say, turf sods.
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Hi Mike. I have been off line for a while so missed your videos so really enjoying catching up Thanks for showing the part how to recognise what dead standing is, eye helpful. Question. do your notches need to be that deep into the log, (they look about half of the diameter deep) in other words are you weakening the log too much where it needs to take the weight? No being a carpenter I'm not sure so just asking
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