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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
Ford F-250 - The Real Fix

Ford F-250 - The Real Fix

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
Ford F-250 - The Real Fix Channel video: South Main Auto Repair - Category: Auto & Vehicles
Date: 2024-03-26

Comments and reviews: 20


I once did an engine in a used Caravan. The customer only had the vehicle about a month but the used car dealership up sold a warranty for power train only. One would think it should have been easy. As Eric says at the beginning, the warranty company was trying to avoid paying. It had a rod knocking. Typically should be easy diagnosis. Run vehicle, rev up listen etc. Pulled ignition wire to suspect cylinder, noise lessened greatly. This warranty company didn’t like that method of diagnosis. Wanted me to tear down engine ( pull pan) and provide more proof. Then this company would only pay for affected cylinder. Thought i could do it in the vehicle. Couldn’t believe the guy on the other end, he thought piston come out bottom. After explaining procedure he approves claim but customer was on hook for gaskets, fluids and labour to get to that one rod. I refused the work but then we came to agreement. They sent me a Chrysler Reman engine, customer had to pay all labour and incidentals. By my choice, I never did work for that company again.
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With a CAN bus, it's not even required for the wires to be shorted. If you have an open wire to one of the two modules that contains the terminating resistors you can will destabilize the entire bus. I recently fixed a Ford that had multiple codes for loss of communication with the fuel pump module. It would also fully lose all HS-CAN communication sometimes and refuse to start. The bus wires went from the ABS module to the fuel pump module and then the suspension module at the rear of the vehicle had the termination resistor. For vehicles without a suspension module, like the one I worked on, there's literally just a 120 ohm terminating resistor with a pigtail at the end of the line. One of the bus wire terminals in the ABS module failed a pin drag test, the was no drag at all. When it would fail it made the entire bus unstable. So it really depends on where the open is in a CAN bus to it's level of effect on the system.
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As a warranty manager for a large RV dealership for five years, yes, I can attest that those extended warranties are not worth the paper that they are printed on.
The dealership constantly changed companies because of issues but mostly because they went out of business. Every claim that I put forth on behalf of the customers was challenged and the dealership would eat the cost of repairs just to keep customers happy and coming back to buy new RVs.
Eventually, the cost of doing business was more than the money made on selling the warranties plus the fact that sales people wouldn't sell them anymore because of the hassle and the dealership stopped selling extended warranties.

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THose aftermarket warranty companies are like throwing dice. Sometimes they will pay out and often they won't, Save some money an a slush fund and you are better off.
Those butt connectors with the solder built into them, I've never had good luck with them. I thought it was me. Either I solder or straight up use a proper sized marine grade butt connector.
The reason why they don't want you using solder above 16 gauge they are afraid you won't get enough flow through due to the thickness of the solder. They probably figure it is easier and more reliable to use a butt connector.

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I’ve yet to use a solder sleeve and I just have always suspected they weren’t quite the same as real solder. You can’t beat heat! Then again, I don’t like the insulated connectors either. I prefer the uninsulated butt connectors, either open or closed barrel, but closed barrel makes a smoother final profile, when I can find them. They install quickly compared to solder and will last forever placed inside good heat shrink such as you are using. And they can be used on very small gauge wire.
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As the spare tire is there it could have been pinched by it. Maybe that spare tire had been loose or was changed and when it was put up it pinched the wires between the tire and the frame. But a good find just time consuming: ) In regards to comments. Some people will always think their way is correct and they are right and anything other than the way they do it is wrong and the sky is falling down. All you can do is laugh at them: ) Great work Mr O as always: )
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Another great diag and repair from the world famous South Main Auto in the great state of PRNY. It is my opinion that those solder and shrink repairs were done properly however, I know nothing about this other than the repairs I do at home. Always appreciate these types of videos from a professional who has the expertise that Mr. O has. I wish we had a guy like him in Indiana. I'm wondering if Avoca, Indiana is in the path of the coming eclipse Have a great day.
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My thoughts are that damage could date back to the couple of times it has been transported to the dealer on the delivery truck when new or when it was purchased at auction used and delivered to the dealership. The thought of it being stuck and a strap thrown around the wrong spot pulling the truck out is also likely. I'd say one the above is most likely the culprit but as you said we'll never truly know.
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When I worked at an RV dealership, we had a Winnebago that had an electrical short.
Troubleshooting the dash, Winnebago had no electrical diagrams of the dashboard wiring and neither did Chevrolet who supplied the chassis for Winnebago to build on.
On top of that, when the mechanic pulled the dashboard, all the wires were purple in color!
A fun time was held by all!

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Here in the U. K. It's got to the point that I now point blank refuse to deal with aftermarket warenty company's, don't get me wrong I will speak with them on behalf of my client but the responsibility for settling my invoice remains the responsibility of the vehicles owner, who then has to deal with the claim themselves
Enjoying the repair and trouble shooting great work MrO.

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Not commenting about the wire connections, but 3m makes a vinyl tape like electrical tape without adhesive. Sticks pretty well to itself, but I use a bit of regular electrical tape at each end then this stuff in the middle. If you ever have to get in the harness again the tape comes off easily and the wires aren’t covered in goo. Learned from old Honda motorcycle harnesses.
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That was a great repair you made - There isn't many of us honest mechanics left in the world, As for my prefered method of wire repair = Solder and heat shrink, never had any comebacks on that type of repair, if solder isn't possible I use a crimp butt connector with heat shrink over that, not ideal but needs must sometimes. All the best from the UK Eric
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I'm personally a crimp and seal guy, but I think following the Ford directions was the right call here. The wires on that new pigtail looked a little big from here, so the crimps might not have worked well. I'm surprised you didn't show the crimp and seals on the other 3 wires you repaired though. I figured you'd like to trigger the comments more!
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I forgot to comment on the last video, but i had to replace a rear wheel speed sensor connector on a e450 last year, and the vehicle only had 2000 miles. One of the wires, near the rear shocks, had a pinhole sized amount of corrosion visible and no one knew how that happened, as the vehicle was far too new to have required tapping a wire.
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A farm truck used for pulling tractors out of the muck, stumps, etc. The damage to harnesses likely to careless rigging of a tow chain hook in the frame hole just forward of where the harnesses are clipped to the frame. Pull at an angle. Battabingo! : Expensive ignorant faux repair. Probably the owner himself to blame.
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Would it help to avoid future salt and mud damage on the connector by installing a bit of a shield in front of it -- maybe using an old mudflap [or something like that] appropriately cut and installed with a few self-tapping screws and of course some Fluid Film in strategic spots (e. g, where the screws were used) Thoughts on that
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Funny thing you mentioned those cold solder shrink tubes. I think they are cool, but just had problems with those. They looked solder good but after about 1 year connection have problems with can bus. So. I decided not use those anymore. Or meaby only use some easy to get spots and with more current than and can bus data link.
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It's amazing that with a little bit of visual inspection that you can find this problem so quick and other shops just either throw their hands up or replace hi dollar items that don't need to be replaced and still don't fix the problem, Eric you rock. A mechanic I would trust with any of my vehicles.
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I 100% agree with you about the solder/shrink connectors. We had the same issue when I worked at a propane company maintaining the delivery trucks. They were good for maybe 2 years and then the connection/solder would let go.
Had to repair a lot of those and i never used them again.

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If I had to make an educated guess, I would say that it being a farm truck, it has had a grass fire under the back of the truck at some point. It really looks like that loom is heat distorted or melted in places. The frame kind of looks blackened in the camera too. Just a thought.
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