Ford Escape - Battery Replacement With Cowl Off - DIY Fail
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Date: 2024-04-11
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Comments and reviews: 20
ppeters480
Good video on the battery replacement, it seems like the COWL method is the way to go. Great tip on wiper mounting I never knew. This really points out how lame the Engineering is at Ford or the last 10 years. I recently replaced the evaporator core on an 2016 Fusion, that required removing the whole dash and both front doors, from videos the Escape has the same design, I think the doors might be easier to take off than a Fusion. They should have the Ford Engineers try to repair the stuff they design to see how much extra work this stuff becomes from these designs. I suppose its all designed that way to force many to take it to the stealership for repair, THe dealer out here in AZ wanted $3500 to replace the evaporator core, I was able to do it but being just a backyard DIY I don't think I will do that one again. I'm really more in the Ford camp than GM, but I can see why you are more familar with GM's, another day another Chevrolet to pay your way and your sons way through college. I just signed up for a membership today to watch the 3. 0 Fusion coil video, well worth the money looking forward to more future exclusive videos.
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Good video on the battery replacement, it seems like the COWL method is the way to go. Great tip on wiper mounting I never knew. This really points out how lame the Engineering is at Ford or the last 10 years. I recently replaced the evaporator core on an 2016 Fusion, that required removing the whole dash and both front doors, from videos the Escape has the same design, I think the doors might be easier to take off than a Fusion. They should have the Ford Engineers try to repair the stuff they design to see how much extra work this stuff becomes from these designs. I suppose its all designed that way to force many to take it to the stealership for repair, THe dealer out here in AZ wanted $3500 to replace the evaporator core, I was able to do it but being just a backyard DIY I don't think I will do that one again. I'm really more in the Ford camp than GM, but I can see why you are more familar with GM's, another day another Chevrolet to pay your way and your sons way through college. I just signed up for a membership today to watch the 3. 0 Fusion coil video, well worth the money looking forward to more future exclusive videos.
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autorepair
Eric O, this is a perfect example of why we need to test batteries in our bays so our customers don't go through what you did. I've seen too many shops that don’t feel the need to test customers' batteries when they come in for service. They all want a battery consignment in their shop for when a customer comes in with a dead battery, but the majority of the batteries on their consignment expire or end up sitting there collecting dust. Those who do not understand battery terminals would just cut off the end and put one of those quick-fix battery connectors. Some shops don’t realize that some manufacturers no longer place the battery underneath the hood. Now, it takes time to replace the battery and may require charging the customer accordingly, as well as possible resets with a scan tool, depending on the manufacturer. According to Interstate, AutoZone is starting to pose a threat to independent garages when it comes to battery sales.
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Eric O, this is a perfect example of why we need to test batteries in our bays so our customers don't go through what you did. I've seen too many shops that don’t feel the need to test customers' batteries when they come in for service. They all want a battery consignment in their shop for when a customer comes in with a dead battery, but the majority of the batteries on their consignment expire or end up sitting there collecting dust. Those who do not understand battery terminals would just cut off the end and put one of those quick-fix battery connectors. Some shops don’t realize that some manufacturers no longer place the battery underneath the hood. Now, it takes time to replace the battery and may require charging the customer accordingly, as well as possible resets with a scan tool, depending on the manufacturer. According to Interstate, AutoZone is starting to pose a threat to independent garages when it comes to battery sales.
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spelunkerd
I agree with that viewpoint to avoid dielectric grease before making the connection, and was surprised to see there is ongoing debate about that. Advocates for putting dielectric grease on before will say that water has a way of penetrating crevices, and once there it tends to stay and dissolve salts to start galvanic reactions. Then crusty salts tend to draw in moisture by osmotic effects. They'll say that the physical contact of clean threads together reliably push grease out of the way to always get a good connection. There's no doubt that the grease will fill those void crevices much more completely if it's put on before. So I guess I can understand their point of view, corrosion can start deep inside and works its way out.
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I agree with that viewpoint to avoid dielectric grease before making the connection, and was surprised to see there is ongoing debate about that. Advocates for putting dielectric grease on before will say that water has a way of penetrating crevices, and once there it tends to stay and dissolve salts to start galvanic reactions. Then crusty salts tend to draw in moisture by osmotic effects. They'll say that the physical contact of clean threads together reliably push grease out of the way to always get a good connection. There's no doubt that the grease will fill those void crevices much more completely if it's put on before. So I guess I can understand their point of view, corrosion can start deep inside and works its way out.
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shemp308
Old school would have been to use either lithium grease or axle grease to stop the corrosion on battery and body! Facts that I personally saw as cars that we did at the service center I worked at! batteries we installed using lithium grease lasted longer with little or no corrosion. Most never had any problems until it was time for a new battery! An added note my truck has lithium grease on both positive and negative posts and all hold downs bolts. Two years ago, the battery needed replacement, and everything came apart like new. Not bad for a truck in the rust belt and a 2001.
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Old school would have been to use either lithium grease or axle grease to stop the corrosion on battery and body! Facts that I personally saw as cars that we did at the service center I worked at! batteries we installed using lithium grease lasted longer with little or no corrosion. Most never had any problems until it was time for a new battery! An added note my truck has lithium grease on both positive and negative posts and all hold downs bolts. Two years ago, the battery needed replacement, and everything came apart like new. Not bad for a truck in the rust belt and a 2001.
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major__kong
You can put dielectric between electrical mating surfaces without causing issues as long as you have good clamping pressure. The surfaces will squeeze out the dielectric where they make microscopic contact. And where the surfaces don't make contact including at the edges the dielectric will protect against corrosion. For connectors with pins where the clamping pressure on the pins isn't as much as say a battery terminal cable, any loose (fretted) connection can be a problem if dielectric is applied.
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You can put dielectric between electrical mating surfaces without causing issues as long as you have good clamping pressure. The surfaces will squeeze out the dielectric where they make microscopic contact. And where the surfaces don't make contact including at the edges the dielectric will protect against corrosion. For connectors with pins where the clamping pressure on the pins isn't as much as say a battery terminal cable, any loose (fretted) connection can be a problem if dielectric is applied.
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ranger178
I actually got conductive copper paste made for putting large wires together on terminals and use that for the battery terminals then wipe off extra it looks just like copper anti seize but when you test it with a meter it is not conductive maybe it is only conductive in thin film squeezed between terminals. then i put some dielectric silicone paste over it all to prevent corrosion from acid and never have any problems with terminals till i replace battery.
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I actually got conductive copper paste made for putting large wires together on terminals and use that for the battery terminals then wipe off extra it looks just like copper anti seize but when you test it with a meter it is not conductive maybe it is only conductive in thin film squeezed between terminals. then i put some dielectric silicone paste over it all to prevent corrosion from acid and never have any problems with terminals till i replace battery.
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robertdavis6708
Just replaced my wife's 2017 Escape battery using the air cleaner removal process. The front panel of the battery box is removable making life easier. It took maybe 30 minutes with battery tools to do the job. I think the air box removal process is the way to go. The customer that broke the negative post from his battery must have been furious. Calmer heads need to be incorporated on the job.
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Just replaced my wife's 2017 Escape battery using the air cleaner removal process. The front panel of the battery box is removable making life easier. It took maybe 30 minutes with battery tools to do the job. I think the air box removal process is the way to go. The customer that broke the negative post from his battery must have been furious. Calmer heads need to be incorporated on the job.
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badcorgis
The customer had it in the bag. They were 50% of the way there. Why did they give up Unless that terminal was so bad they couldn't get the wire off. At that point just unbolt the negative lead from the car and pull the whole mess. Genuine question on the fluid film though, if it's in fact dielectric isn't there a little risk that that would create an issue between electrical connections
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The customer had it in the bag. They were 50% of the way there. Why did they give up Unless that terminal was so bad they couldn't get the wire off. At that point just unbolt the negative lead from the car and pull the whole mess. Genuine question on the fluid film though, if it's in fact dielectric isn't there a little risk that that would create an issue between electrical connections
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as3sxp
Oh man, my brother and I are experts now removing the cowl and battery on a 2014 Escape(same setup. We were helping a friend with a clunking that they were told from the dealer was the suspension and cv axles.
We replaced the struts, rear shocks and CVs. Turned out to be the motor mounts. which requires a lot of the same work you showed including removing the cowl, battery and tray, etc.
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Oh man, my brother and I are experts now removing the cowl and battery on a 2014 Escape(same setup. We were helping a friend with a clunking that they were told from the dealer was the suspension and cv axles.
We replaced the struts, rear shocks and CVs. Turned out to be the motor mounts. which requires a lot of the same work you showed including removing the cowl, battery and tray, etc.
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terpman
I had a 2014 Escape, same design as this one. I found it MUCH easier to just pull the airbox and slide the battery out. You get a little more room by unbolting the brake fluid reservoir, if you feel like you need the room. Between the plastic clips and the wiper arms, I think there's a lot more potential for DIYers to damage something just because they don't have the feel for those parts.
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I had a 2014 Escape, same design as this one. I found it MUCH easier to just pull the airbox and slide the battery out. You get a little more room by unbolting the brake fluid reservoir, if you feel like you need the room. Between the plastic clips and the wiper arms, I think there's a lot more potential for DIYers to damage something just because they don't have the feel for those parts.
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autorepair
One thing you can look at also on that style of wiper system is to reference the windshield or windscreen for the folks across the pond. Most now come with wiper position marks on the bottom either dots or slash marks in them. I've installed autoglass for 30yrs now and those marks have been a godsend on the more modern vehicles especially the ones like these with independent motors
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One thing you can look at also on that style of wiper system is to reference the windshield or windscreen for the folks across the pond. Most now come with wiper position marks on the bottom either dots or slash marks in them. I've installed autoglass for 30yrs now and those marks have been a godsend on the more modern vehicles especially the ones like these with independent motors
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r. weaver3769
No matter how many times I've proven there is no need to remove paint from ground lugs. Dielectric grease, we used it by the bucket on board Navy vessels, just the way you are, coat everything then make the connections. Works good on watertight seals too. I use it on places where water can get into the car and flood electronics too, like bulkhead connectors and trim panels.
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No matter how many times I've proven there is no need to remove paint from ground lugs. Dielectric grease, we used it by the bucket on board Navy vessels, just the way you are, coat everything then make the connections. Works good on watertight seals too. I use it on places where water can get into the car and flood electronics too, like bulkhead connectors and trim panels.
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richardp969
Great video. FYI: Ford has a policy that when a connection to a body part is being used for an electrical connection, the Bold must be welded into the body/frame. That way you do not have to depend on the sheet metal. The nut or bolt welded to the body will make an electrical connection for ever. There is no need to take the paint off, and expose the body to rust.
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Great video. FYI: Ford has a policy that when a connection to a body part is being used for an electrical connection, the Bold must be welded into the body/frame. That way you do not have to depend on the sheet metal. The nut or bolt welded to the body will make an electrical connection for ever. There is no need to take the paint off, and expose the body to rust.
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zzzgz5
My 2017 Escape has a shorter battery box (front to rear) and I couldn't fit my fingers in there to grab the battery and tilt it far enough to get the front lifted over the box. Along comes a 3/4 inch box end wrench to slip over the positive cable. Lifted the front using that and was easily able to tilt the battery far enough to get it out.
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My 2017 Escape has a shorter battery box (front to rear) and I couldn't fit my fingers in there to grab the battery and tilt it far enough to get the front lifted over the box. Along comes a 3/4 inch box end wrench to slip over the positive cable. Lifted the front using that and was easily able to tilt the battery far enough to get it out.
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ralphwatten2426
Whooda thunk back in the day that someone would need to have an instruction on changing a battery. Battery was on a shelf on the firewall. Battery current sensor. nahhh. I have a battery spray that I've had for decades that was meant to be sprayed on the terminal before you put the cable on. Thanks for all the vids Mr. O.
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Whooda thunk back in the day that someone would need to have an instruction on changing a battery. Battery was on a shelf on the firewall. Battery current sensor. nahhh. I have a battery spray that I've had for decades that was meant to be sprayed on the terminal before you put the cable on. Thanks for all the vids Mr. O.
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TXAG81
Down here in Texas, Corrosion Technologies makes a great line of products. Corrosion X HD (green can) is the product I use on my saltwater bay boat and is great for battery terminals. The regular Corrosion X (red can) is great for electronics and I spray this over my outboard power head to prevent corrosion under the cowling.
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Down here in Texas, Corrosion Technologies makes a great line of products. Corrosion X HD (green can) is the product I use on my saltwater bay boat and is great for battery terminals. The regular Corrosion X (red can) is great for electronics and I spray this over my outboard power head to prevent corrosion under the cowling.
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andrewruble7706
Another wisdom filled adventure. Eric I am always impressed that you do your best not to dis the DYIer. It is fortunate that you have worked on many vehicles so in piecing the puzzle back together you not only make the customer happy but teach all of us arm chair mechanics a thing or two. Thanks for sharing.
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Another wisdom filled adventure. Eric I am always impressed that you do your best not to dis the DYIer. It is fortunate that you have worked on many vehicles so in piecing the puzzle back together you not only make the customer happy but teach all of us arm chair mechanics a thing or two. Thanks for sharing.
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wallingj68
On my '14Escape there are sideways H's at the end of the wiper towards the motor that shows the home position. It's like they didn't apply the black paint to those areas when they made the windshields. I've always used that as a reference when I put the cowl and wipers back on for simple tasks. Thanks FORD! NOT!
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On my '14Escape there are sideways H's at the end of the wiper towards the motor that shows the home position. It's like they didn't apply the black paint to those areas when they made the windshields. I've always used that as a reference when I put the cowl and wipers back on for simple tasks. Thanks FORD! NOT!
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BillMalcolm-tn3kq
Yeah, what was that new battery reset procedure from the Escape the other day Buckle and unbuckle the seat belts eight times, turn the engine off and on three times, bat the brake pedal four times, and then whistle Dixie. At whichpoint some light on the dash goes out and the Escape, she's all set to go!
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Yeah, what was that new battery reset procedure from the Escape the other day Buckle and unbuckle the seat belts eight times, turn the engine off and on three times, bat the brake pedal four times, and then whistle Dixie. At whichpoint some light on the dash goes out and the Escape, she's all set to go!
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denniswright8949
I have to thank you for a tip. I was changing blades on my mower and one would not come loose. First was the WD40. No go. Then I remembered your trick of applying heat. A couple of minutes with a canister of MAP gas and the nut turned right off. Thanks. I would have been stuck without this trick.
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I have to thank you for a tip. I was changing blades on my mower and one would not come loose. First was the WD40. No go. Then I remembered your trick of applying heat. A couple of minutes with a canister of MAP gas and the nut turned right off. Thanks. I would have been stuck without this trick.
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