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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!

Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL! Channel video: South Main Auto Repair - Category: Auto & Vehicles
Date: 2024-05-07

Comments and reviews: 20


I remember as a kid futzin with old car stereos out of a junked car and powered by my slot car transformer, so I could have tunes in my room. I would make all the connections with cheap black tape, which we all know the difference in the 10 rolls for a buck 2. 98 and the good stuff. While I did just fine putting tunes in my room, it rarely got the road treatment. When I got older and worked on cars, I thought sodder (just so you could read it right) and shrink tube were the berries. Once I got where time was an issue, I quickly went to crimp connectors, although to be honest, I was in the HVAC trade and a few jobs got the ole wirenut treatment. The only thing I hate about the crimp and seal jobbies is the stinkin price. They are 25 bucks for 10 of the lil bastids at the local parts house. I do have them and order them online for a lot less and even though I'm sure they are Chinesium, they work well. I do wanna mention, like everything else we do, proper torque (pressure) is key to most, if not all connections. Sorry for the bloated post. I was onna roll. This old dog keeps learnin, love your vids. thx Eric.
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I still believe in Scotch 3M electrical tape. If you pull slightly stretching it the whole entire wrap without getting f8ngerp48nts on the adhesive it is easy to have zero wrinkles in the tape. Making a perfect seal. Only caution is do not pull it to tight because it shrinks over time back to its memory size and over a really long time it will pullthe vinyl strip off the glue. Just stretch it enough to get a smooth layered wrap as you change directions and go over the solder or twist. It has worked for me since middle school and I will confidently say it is easily a 20 year fix. Alot longer than that if it never sees sun or weather.
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Ive been using the shrinkable but connections for years and i agree its all about the crimp. Ive seen many fail due to piercing the insulation during the crimp. On most current situations i find the red are too big. Pico makes a smaller clear one but its quite delicate. Ive switched to seamless uninsulated but sleeves and heat shrink for more critical circuits. They are also less bulky. Good video!
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I also put a bit of dielectric grease on the inside of the shrink butt connector before crimping. When heat is applied to shrink the tubing it squeezes out most of the grease and leaves just enough to waterproof the crimp. It's worked very well for me for many years.
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Should do a video on those horrible solder sleeve things. They use low temp solder and have zero strength, absolutely guaranteed to fail at some point. I get ads for them all the time and just have to cringe a bit. The thought of people using them to join wires.
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Little things like this make doing auto repair in the South glorious. No salt on the roads. We're lucky if they drop sand on the roads here. We don't have to deal with near the amount of corrosion that you guys up north have to. Respect.
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I really like the bare metal barrel crimps with marine grade heat shrink. They seem to work better for me. Thanks for the video because it's always nice to know how to do something correctly the first time!
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What i would like is a crimp with seal in a Y and T configuration so you can crimp 3 wires together instead of using a bigger one and put the wires in the same hole. (Not good) But i havent found one.
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The aircraft industry have been using connectors where a wire is crimped with adjustable wire (gauge selected crimper) at each end. I think its all about following manufactures instructions
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From almost 30 years of experience. I need to refix 1 out of 250 butt conections after a decade. To me it's a pretty good reliability rate for all the time saved by butt connections.
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I have the Mac pair basically same thing as snap on i work for ford and always use the barrel connector with the shrink wrap but I have seen previous repairs fail from wiring issues
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Hey Mr O, this is a great pointer this morning. Thanks for the tips I'm definitely going to take this to heart for my electronic repair where I just use the cheapest crimper tubes.
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Klein makes a good pair of crimpers. I've had a pair for probably 15 years. As an electrician, I have used several brands but the Klein's seem to be my favorite.
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The crimp and seal connectors that i use you need to strip the wire almost 3/8 so the wire makes it to the crimp part. I've had real good luck with them.
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I'm in the crimp and seal camp. However, do you have a thought/feeling on the twisting of the strands of wire It could be that I'm just wierd.
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If you have heard the term cold solder then crimp and seal is the standard. On high current application, crimp or screw is the only way.
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Good morning I hv an 07 buick lucerne cxl 3. 8 I keep getting a code b0107 I don't know what it means can you please help me out
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The ratcheting crimp tool is 100% worth the investment, easy on the hands and you get the correct amount of squeeze every time.
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Eric, Crimp and Seal always works half the time all the time. Its what I use all the time, Half the time Nailed It Brother!
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I use the heat shrink ones with the solder ball already in it. Work well but not as mechanically strong as the metal crimper ones.
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